I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate. Would
I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone have
any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Kit Jackson

Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
First question - should slate be cut wet or dry?

I cut a slate hearth down in size with a segmented diamond blade, didn't
wet it, cut was OK, similar to yours my edges weren't on display.

"Kit Jackson" wrote in message
web.com...
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry?

Depends on the stone cutting 'blade' used.

If you are using an abrasive disk, the only advantage
of doing it wet is that it keeps the dust down.

If its a diamond disk, it does keep it cool.

Do I have to provide a stream of water directed at the point of contact.

That's the usual thing, but isnt hard to achieve, just have
a sort of mini hose thing trickling on where its cutting.

Good enough to just keep the area wet if you just want to keep the dust
down.

Next - are ordinary angle grinder blades OK to use wet

Yes.

or will the blade disintegrate.

No.

Would I be better using a diamond blade instead?

I wouldnt for such a small job.

Finally - does anyone have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

I'd personally use a stone cutting disk in a cutoff saw instead
of an angle grinder. Much easier to get a straight cut that way.

On 10/12/2016 11:06 PM, Andy Burns wrote:
Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
First question - should slate be cut wet or dry?

I cut a slate hearth down in size with a segmented diamond blade, didn't
wet it, cut was OK, similar to yours my edges weren't on display.


Not slate, but I had no problem cutting up sandstone paving dry using a
diamond disk in a 9 inch angle grinder last year. I also did some
nibbling with a 115 mm blade. You would probably be OK using this size
if you take it slowly.

Don't try to make it too close a fit in the first cut, it's difficult to
take small amounts off neatly if it is too tight. The opposite to the
usual rule for timber products!

On Wednesday, 12 October 2016 23:00:33 UTC+1, Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact.

Upto you. Wet is better.

Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate. Would

Never wet grit discs, it can cause them to fail. And angle grinder disc explosions are really not a good thing.

I be better using a diamond blade instead?

oh yes. Faster neater cleaner quicker safer, and over time cheaper.

Finally - does anyone have
any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

I doubt you will without some equipment designed to.


NT

On 12/10/2016 23:00, Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a

It will cut dry with a diamond disc. (slate is not particularly hard
anyway). (with skill it can also be worked with hand shearing tools, but
I don't think I would try that without lots of practice!)

stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.

Stick to diamond. Most masonry cutting tasks are far easier, faster and
cleaner with a diamond disc. The continuous rim discs like some of the
Norton ones will also give a very smooth polished cut.

Would
I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone have
any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Use a timber batten clamped onto the work to run the side of the blade
along.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article . com,
Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.
Would I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone
have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Don't suppose you have a wet tile cutter? Larger ones will cope with 20mm.
If the edge is already square, the fence on that will keep the new one
square too. A wet cut with a diamond blade done carefully will give a
superb cut.

--
*A clear conscience is the sign of a fuzzy memory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, 13 October 2016 01:25:50 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article . com,
Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.
Would I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone
have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Don't suppose you have a wet tile cutter? Larger ones will cope with 20mm.
If the edge is already square, the fence on that will keep the new one
square too. A wet cut with a diamond blade done carefully will give a
superb cut.

With a diyed sled you could get a good cut. Without I can't imagine holding a big heavy piece of slate steady enough all the way through to get a clean cut.


NT

On 12/10/16 23:00, Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate. Would
I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone have
any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Kit Jackson

dimond,water, dunno/

--
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.

In article ,
wrote:
Don't suppose you have a wet tile cutter? Larger ones will cope with
20mm. If the edge is already square, the fence on that will keep the
new one square too. A wet cut with a diamond blade done carefully will
give a superb cut.

With a diyed sled you could get a good cut. Without I can't imagine
holding a big heavy piece of slate steady enough all the way through to
get a clean cut.

You'd need to make sure the tile cutter was fixed down to something and
have skilled help to move the slab. But if you are skilled with an angle
grinder you could probably do it with that. I'm not.

Other way might be to fit a diamond blade to a circular saw?

--
*Shin: a device for finding furniture in the dark *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, 13 October 2016 11:14:04 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

Don't suppose you have a wet tile cutter? Larger ones will cope with
20mm. If the edge is already square, the fence on that will keep the
new one square too. A wet cut with a diamond blade done carefully will
give a superb cut.

With a diyed sled you could get a good cut. Without I can't imagine
holding a big heavy piece of slate steady enough all the way through to
get a clean cut.

You'd need to make sure the tile cutter was fixed down to something and
have skilled help to move the slab. But if you are skilled with an angle
grinder you could probably do it with that. I'm not.

Other way might be to fit a diamond blade to a circular saw?

then run it along a batten.


NT

On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 11:06:17 PM UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
First question - should slate be cut wet or dry?

I cut a slate hearth down in size with a segmented diamond blade, didn't
wet it, cut was OK, similar to yours my edges weren't on display.

+1

Jonathan

In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2016-10-12, John Rumm wrote:

[15 lines snipped]

Stick to diamond. Most masonry cutting tasks are far easier, faster
and cleaner with a diamond disc. The continuous rim discs like some
of the Norton ones will also give a very smooth polished cut.

[Files that away as useful, since I have vague plans to make a turntable
plinth out of slate.]

Then I really would use a wet tile cutter. As I said you get a beautiful
edge with those. I cut some concrete paving with one - slow, but I'm not
happy with angle grinders. The edge looked wonderful with all the cut and
polished aggregate. Even although it would never be seen again. ;-)

--
*Why isn't 11 pronounced onety one? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone
cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will
sit recessed inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't
have to be particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to
provide a stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next -
are ordinary angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade
disintegrate. Would I be better using a diamond blade instead?
Finally - does anyone have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Kit Jackson

Diamond blade in 9 inch angle grinder. Don't use water, it's not required
and is dangerous where electricity is concerned

On 12 Oct 2016 22:00:31 GMT, Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit.

Do it outside, slurry spray if done wet, dust if done dry...

Diamond blade, perhaps hire a decent sized machine. Even then I don't
think I'd attempt a hand held, single pass, full thickness, cut.

inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

A batten very firmly clamped to the slate to guide some rigid part of
the body of the machine, not the blade directly, should give the
straightness for the exposed corner. This cut done fairly shallow,
slowly and carefully then turn over and do multple passes from the
back to cut through the thickness, guide batten to start. The two
cuts don't have to be exactly opposite each other, I'd probably go
for the kerf larger for the cuts from the back.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone
cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will
sit recessed inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't
have to be particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to
provide a stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next -
are ordinary angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade
disintegrate. Would I be better using a diamond blade instead?
Finally - does anyone have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Diamond blade in 9 inch angle grinder.

Makes a lot more sense to have it in a circular saw in that situation.

Don't use water, it's not required and is dangerous where electricity is
concerned

Must be why so many of the tile cutters the pros use use water.

Rod Speed wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone
cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will
sit recessed inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't
have to be particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to
provide a stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next -
are ordinary angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade
disintegrate. Would I be better using a diamond blade instead?
Finally - does anyone have any tips for keeping the cut dead
straight?

Diamond blade in 9 inch angle grinder.

Makes a lot more sense to have it in a circular saw in that situation.

Don't use water, it's not required and is dangerous where
electricity is concerned

Must be why so many of the tile cutters the pros use use water.

They don't cut tiles using a 9 inch angle grinder and a hosepipe, they use a
wet tile cutter where the wheel is partially submerged and well away from
the (double insulated) electrics. This is required for tiles as glazed
ceramics and porcelain are very hard, wheras slate is, to put it bluntly,
soft as ****.

"Phil L" Wrote in message:
Rod Speed wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone
cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will
sit recessed inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't
have to be particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to
provide a stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next -
are ordinary angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade
disintegrate. Would I be better using a diamond blade instead?
Finally - does anyone have any tips for keeping the cut dead
straight?

Diamond blade in 9 inch angle grinder.

Makes a lot more sense to have it in a circular saw in that situation.

Don't use water, it's not required and is dangerous where
electricity is concerned

Must be why so many of the tile cutters the pros use use water.

They don't cut tiles using a 9 inch angle grinder and a hosepipe, they use a
wet tile cutter where the wheel is partially submerged and well away from
the (double insulated) electrics. This is required for tiles as glazed
ceramics and porcelain are very hard, wheras slate is, to put it bluntly,
soft as ****.


I advise you eat more fibre...

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 00:37:18 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 12/10/2016 23:00, Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone
cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit
recessed inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to
be particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide
a

It will cut dry with a diamond disc. (slate is not particularly hard
anyway). (with skill it can also be worked with hand shearing tools, but
I don't think I would try that without lots of practice!)

stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.

Stick to diamond. Most masonry cutting tasks are far easier, faster and
cleaner with a diamond disc. The continuous rim discs like some of the
Norton ones will also give a very smooth polished cut.

Would I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone
have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Use a timber batten clamped onto the work to run the side of the blade
along.

I've found that having a dust extractor guard fitted to the grinder makes
that sort of thing much easier:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-26055.../dp/B001418DR6

On 19/10/2016 12:38, John #9 wrote:
On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 00:37:18 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 12/10/2016 23:00, Kit Jackson wrote:
I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone
cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit
recessed inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to
be particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide
a

It will cut dry with a diamond disc. (slate is not particularly hard
anyway). (with skill it can also be worked with hand shearing tools, but
I don't think I would try that without lots of practice!)

stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.

Stick to diamond. Most masonry cutting tasks are far easier, faster and
cleaner with a diamond disc. The continuous rim discs like some of the
Norton ones will also give a very smooth polished cut.

Would I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone
have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Use a timber batten clamped onto the work to run the side of the blade
along.

I've found that having a dust extractor guard fitted to the grinder makes
that sort of thing much easier:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-26055.../dp/B001418DR6

That looks quite handy - half way to being a wall chaser.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Bosch PMF
(or £20 clone from aldi this week)

On Wed, 12 Oct 2016 22:00:31 +0000, Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.
Would I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone
have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Kit Jackson



Job done last weekend. I'd just like to say thanks to everybody who
replied.

In the end I used a stone grinding wheel to produce a scoring cut on the
face, then the main cut using a diamond wheel on the reverse. The
grinding wheel produced a better edge than the diamond wheel where I got
some breakout on the cutting side, maybe because I used a segmented blade
which just kicked the lip of the cut off a bit. Or maybe because I'm not
very good at using the angle grinder. I did run the blade up against a
piece of small angle iron to help keep a straight line as well. All the
cuts were done wet.

"Kit Jackson" wrote in message
web.com...
On Wed, 12 Oct 2016 22:00:31 +0000, Kit Jackson wrote:

I've got a new slate hearth for the fire. It's 20mm thick but
unfortunately it's a bit too big and I'm planning to use a stone cutting
blade on an angle grinder to cut it to fit. The slate will sit recessed
inside an existing marble surround so the edges don't have to be
particularly smooth but they do have to be straight.

First question - should slate be cut wet or dry? Do I have to provide a
stream of water directed at the point of contact. Next - are ordinary
angle grinder blades OK to use wet or will the blade disintegrate.
Would I be better using a diamond blade instead? Finally - does anyone
have any tips for keeping the cut dead straight?

Job done last weekend. I'd just like to say thanks to everybody who
replied.

In the end I used a stone grinding wheel to produce a scoring cut on the
face, then the main cut using a diamond wheel on the reverse. The
grinding wheel produced a better edge than the diamond wheel where I got
some breakout on the cutting side, maybe because I used a segmented blade
which just kicked the lip of the cut off a bit. Or maybe because I'm not
very good at using the angle grinder. I did run the blade up against a
piece of small angle iron to help keep a straight line as well. All the
cuts were done wet.

Thanks for the follow up, too rarely done IMO.