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#1
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain
every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? -- David |
#2
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 24/09/2016 22:37, Lobster wrote:
The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? At a guess as I worked for rolls royce oiling machines for a couple of years around 40 years ago. We used various oils for different machines. They (from memory) used a numbering system from 10 (very thin) up to 80 (very thick) and the 10 was very light, I recall guys asking for a 30 to use in their cars so I reckon you are looking for something below that so I reckon the Woolie one is about right. |
#3
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Saturday, 24 September 2016 22:37:47 UTC+1, Lobster wrote:
The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? 20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable. Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain. NT |
#5
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
Brian Gaff wrote:
Is it not about time that exercise machines replaced friction pads with a device for generating power charge you phone or some such? Quite a few exercise machines don't use friction pads, but have a magnet which is moved closer/further from a rotating iron flywheel, generating resistance by the eddy currents. |
#6
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 16:25:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Saturday, 24 September 2016 22:37:47 UTC+1, Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? 20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable. Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain. I know some motorcycle chain lubes are very sticky so as you say, they don't get thrown off and I thought some cycle chain lubes were 'dry' (waxy?) so that the didn't attract dust and dirt (turning the oil into a grinding paste), not that that should be an issue in the OP's case. ;-) So, I would say, if the chain is covered and you are looking for 'exercise' [1], a bit of extra drag from some motorcycle chain lube might be worth it, should also be offering better protection against wear (the main idea after all) and not end up all over the place. I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser (that would have been petrol in 'my day' g), allow to dry and then I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-) I think this is the nearest current equivalent that I have found: http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_...oducts_id=1306 And remember there are two main areas you are trying to lubricate, the pins, rollers and side plates of the chain itself and the sprocket teeth where the chain is joining (under load). Cheers, T i m 1] We generally fit heavier / puncture resistant tyres on our cycles and tandem because we are looking to use them partly for (fun / interesting) exercise and partly because we want that exercise to be from cycling, not repairing punctures or pushing the bikes home. ;-) |
#7
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
Lobster wrote:
The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil? -- Scott Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket? |
#8
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sunday, 25 September 2016 11:10:55 UTC+1, Scott M wrote:
Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil? you don't want oil that degrades. NT |
#9
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
Huge wrote:
On 2016-09-24, Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? Use whatever you have most of. +1 I would use whatever was least messy. A chain is cheap and easy to replace too. Not worth agonising over the "right" lubricant. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#10
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
In message , Lobster
writes The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Weight is an old fashioned or out of date term, but is indeed the W in your 10W40. The number before the W indicates how thin or 'runny' the oil is when cold. The number after the W indicates how runny the same oil is when hot. Given that the oil on your chain is unlikely to get hot, you can safely ignore the second number. Your 10W40 is likely to be a little too thin, or runny, but the only practical consequence is that it is slightly more likely to splatter in use, and therefore not last as long. I would either use the 10W40 or possibly find 20Wanything. If using the 10W40, check after, say, 400 miles and reapply if necessary. The sewing machine oil will be even thinner than the 10W40, I would imagine. -- Graeme |
#11
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 21:37:45 GMT, Lobster
wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? Weight is as you say related to viscosity and relate to the SAE designations. SAE 20 (single grade oil) is a 20 weight oil. Modern vehicle oils are usually dual designation as your 10W40 where it behaves as a 10 weight oil at low temperature and as a 40 weight oil at 100degC. At room temperature 10W30 is pretty close to SAE20 single grade oil. For a rowing machine chain, as others have said, almost anything will do. |
#12
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 25 Sep 2016, T i m grunted:
On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 16:25:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 24 September 2016 22:37:47 UTC+1, Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? 20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable. Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain. I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser (that would have been petrol in 'my day' g), allow to dry and then I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-) Ah, that takes me back 30 years! My mum really used to love it when I boiled up my motorbike chain on her cooker. (Hey, I never did actually spill it though, mum...!). Actually, I've very recently come back to motorbikes again after a long layoff, and it seems that method is now out of favour (I suppose probably because you don't get many non-O-ring chains these days). Anyway, I don't think it would be appropriate for my rowing machine, which has a very lightweight chain in comparison to a motorbike (and it's not done 'de rigeur' for bicycle chains either), and it could be awful messy in my spare bedroom! As there seemed to be a lot of disagreement here, I've done some more digging. Seems that 20-weight oil is what's usually used inside motorcycle forks or shock absorbers (eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282042649506). As it's 30+ years since I last played with that stuff I can't remember what it was like (though I expect Mum still has half a can in her garage somewhere!); however I had a look on the website of the rowing machine manufacturer and found a how-to-do-it maintenance video. This has a bloke using 3-in-1 (ie, the same as my Woolie's oil as far as I'm concerned!) See http://tinyurl.com/j9w2smr (2 mins 5 secs in) or http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/in...-d/maintenance. That'll do me. Thanks all -- David |
#13
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sun, 25 Sep 2016 12:00:34 +0000 (UTC), Lobster
wrote: snip I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser (that would have been petrol in 'my day' g), allow to dry and then I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-) Ah, that takes me back 30 years! My mum really used to love it when I boiled up my motorbike chain on her cooker. (Hey, I never did actually spill it though, mum...!). ;-) Actually, I've very recently come back to motorbikes again after a long layoff, and it seems that method is now out of favour (I suppose probably because you don't get many non-O-ring chains these days). It's not here, on my basic bikes (and I still have my tin of Linklife g) and all my bigger bikes are shaft drive anyway. ;-) Anyway, I don't think it would be appropriate for my rowing machine, which has a very lightweight chain in comparison to a motorbike (and it's not done 'de rigeur' for bicycle chains either), and it could be awful messy in my spare bedroom! Quite. As there seemed to be a lot of disagreement here, I've done some more digging. Seems that 20-weight oil is what's usually used inside motorcycle forks or shock absorbers (eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282042649506). As it's 30+ years since I last played with that stuff I can't remember what it was like (though I expect Mum still has half a can in her garage somewhere!); however I had a look on the website of the rowing machine manufacturer and found a how-to-do-it maintenance video. This has a bloke using 3-in-1 (ie, the same as my Woolie's oil as far as I'm concerned!) See http://tinyurl.com/j9w2smr (2 mins 5 secs in) or http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/in...-d/maintenance. That'll do me. Ah, now that's more like a jewellery 'chain' than anything typically transmission orientated g so yes, all you would need is for it to be given a light oiling to ensure oil gets inside the rollers and a very light surface coating to prevent rust. In this case it's not necessarily what's bet for the chain but what is the best compromise for a chain being used in that environment (more like a tension / recoil starter cord than a chain as such. Our Tunturi exercise cycle uses an enclosed toothed belt that is both maintenance free and silent and you can get them quite fine and endless so I'm surprised they aren't used for things like your rowing machine? Looking at the parts diagram it seems the chain is retracted by a compound pulley system and some shock cord. It would be easier with a tooth belt as they can be 'coiled up' around a tension pulley etc. Have you tried one of the water rowers (and I don't mean 'a boat'). ;-)? Cheers, T i m |
#14
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 25/09/2016 11:10, Scott M wrote:
Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil? Chainsaw oil gets chucked about, it is just formulated so it doesn't kill the operator when he breaths it in. |
#15
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
In article ,
Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? Use the thickest oil you can find. Extra friction will get you fit sooner. -- *Give me ambiguity or give me something else. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#16
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
dennis@home wrote:
On 25/09/2016 11:10, Scott M wrote: Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil? Chainsaw oil gets chucked about, it is just formulated so it doesn't kill the operator when he breaths it in. Surely it's not the operator they care about, it's the 'environment'. Chainsaw oil is organic/vegetable oil that won't do any harm when sprayed atound the woods/garden etc. -- Chris Green · |
#17
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
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#18
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sunday, 25 September 2016 13:00:46 UTC+1, Lobster wrote:
On 25 Sep 2016, T i m grunted: On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 16:25:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 24 September 2016 22:37:47 UTC+1, Lobster wrote: The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? 20 is a thick oil, the light stuff won't be at all suitable. Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain. I'm also guessing this wouldn't be an 'o-ring' chain so it might benefit for a good cleaning before a good re-lubing. If you can get it off easily (joining link?) soak / wash it in some suitable de-greaser (that would have been petrol in 'my day' g), allow to dry and then I'd put it in my tin of 'Linklife' on the stove. ;-) Ah, that takes me back 30 years! My mum really used to love it when I boiled up my motorbike chain on her cooker. (Hey, I never did actually spill it though, mum...!). Actually, I've very recently come back to motorbikes again after a long layoff, and it seems that method is now out of favour (I suppose probably because you don't get many non-O-ring chains these days). Anyway, I don't think it would be appropriate for my rowing machine, which has a very lightweight chain in comparison to a motorbike (and it's not done 'de rigeur' for bicycle chains either), and it could be awful messy in my spare bedroom! As there seemed to be a lot of disagreement here, I've done some more digging. Seems that 20-weight oil is what's usually used inside motorcycle forks or shock absorbers (eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282042649506). As it's 30+ years since I last played with that stuff I can't remember what it was like (though I expect Mum still has half a can in her garage somewhere!); however I had a look on the website of the rowing machine manufacturer and found a how-to-do-it maintenance video. This has a bloke using 3-in-1 (ie, the same as my Woolie's oil as far as I'm concerned!) See http://tinyurl.com/j9w2smr (2 mins 5 secs in) or http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/in...-d/maintenance. That'll do me. Thanks all -- David All that you need for oiling a bike is a strip drawn along the top of the chain to where you are put off by the rear fork. If you do this before a warm up and then get off and run the chain through a rag, all the excess will come off. The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. You are not going to stress any moving parts at that rate for some considerable time. |
#19
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote:
The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck. NT |
#20
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, wrote:
On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote: The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck. So how fast is rowing? |
#21
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 26/09/16 06:30, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote: The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck. So how fast is rowing? WEll if you look at the boats following the varsity thames race, most of them are on the step and planing, so its gotta be around 10mph or more I reckon a skiff well rowed by a fit person is easily 5-6mph. But a dinghy is probably only walking pace. -- Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as foolish, and by the rulers as useful. (Seneca the Younger, 65 AD) |
#22
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
Vintage car owners often use single grade engine oils. They are available |
#23
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Monday, 26 September 2016 07:23:02 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 26/09/16 06:30, Weatherlawyer wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote: The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck. So how fast is rowing? WEll if you look at the boats following the varsity thames race, most of them are on the step and planing, so its gotta be around 10mph or more I reckon a skiff well rowed by a fit person is easily 5-6mph. But a dinghy is probably only walking pace. I don't know exact figures, but no way did I only do 4mph, probably nearer 12. NT |
#24
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 08:32:54 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:
Vintage car owners often use single grade engine oils. They are available They are, but they're much more expensive and - in this instance - irrelevant. 20w50 will be the same viscosity as a straight 20 when it's cold. When it's hot, it'll still be much thinner than it was when it was cold, but not as thin as a hot 20. It'll be the same viscosity as a hot straight 50. |
#25
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
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#26
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:
I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?) |
#27
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote:
On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote: I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?) I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#28
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
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#29
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Sun, 25 Sep 2016 22:30:26 -0700 (PDT), Weatherlawyer
wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote: The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck. So how fast is rowing? It very much depends on the boat, conditions and the fitness of the rower. I'd say most people could row a 'std' rowing dinghy at about walking pace, given no 'tide' or wind. When rowing our 3m folding dinghy the other day we were 3 up and a dog and *I* was probably doing better than walking speed but my Mrs and daughter were slower. I've since got some longer oars so could probably go faster on my own. Our 16' GRP Thames skiff is a real delight to row and with me rowing (3 up) was able to out-row 4 'blokes' in a similar size and shape boat (for obvious reasons known to me but not them). ;-) I think the fastest rowing boat are the 8's and they are around 20 mph? I'm not aware of any non-displacement rowing boat (but there probably are some). Cheers, T i m |
#30
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 26 Sep 2016 09:42:29 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote: On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote: I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?) I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden. You don't need to suffer such restrictions when it's yer wife's bike chain you are doing. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#31
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Monday, 26 September 2016 10:54:52 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 26/09/16 09:38, tabbypurr wrote: On Monday, 26 September 2016 07:23:02 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 26/09/16 06:30, Weatherlawyer wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 22:31:55 UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote: On Sunday, 25 September 2016 18:34:07 UTC+1, Weatherlawyer wrote: The gentle warm up will have run the oil into where it is needed and should be adequate for 500 miles of regular use. I doubt anyone rows for miles at any one time, possibly half an hour -which would take you a couple of miles down hill on a real river, half a mile back up. Rowing's a good bit faster than that. Unless you're a kid not paying attention and paddling Donald Duck. So how fast is rowing? WEll if you look at the boats following the varsity thames race, most of them are on the step and planing, so its gotta be around 10mph or more I reckon a skiff well rowed by a fit person is easily 5-6mph. But a dinghy is probably only walking pace. I don't know exact figures, but no way did I only do 4mph, probably nearer 12. In what boat? Pencil scull. For anyone not familiar, they're very narrow and completely unstable. But fast. I can believe that for a racing skiff, but not a fishing skiff or a dinghy. No NT |
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 9/26/2016 10:42 AM, Bob Eager wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote: On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote: I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?) I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden. Yorkshire House with two stoves? Luxury \Yorkshire |
#33
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 13:36:27 +0100, T i m wrote:
On 26 Sep 2016 09:42:29 GMT, Bob Eager wrote: On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote: On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote: I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?) I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden. You don't need to suffer such restrictions when it's yer wife's bike chain you are doing. ;-) I was 17 at the time and it wasn't a wife I worried about! -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#34
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 26 Sep 2016 15:00:13 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 13:36:27 +0100, T i m wrote: On 26 Sep 2016 09:42:29 GMT, Bob Eager wrote: On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote: On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote: I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?) I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden. You don't need to suffer such restrictions when it's yer wife's bike chain you are doing. ;-) I was 17 at the time and it wasn't a wife I worried about! Ah, understood. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#35
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
Lobster wrote:
The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? See http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/in...-d/maintenance where they recomend 3-in-one. I've still got some of the oil that came with my machine and it's similar in viscosity so your Woolies is probably fine. -- Steve W |
#36
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain. NT =I'm sure that you've got that wrong; multigrade oil offers the characturistics of a thin oil at low temperatures to reduce friction when starting, and a thick oil at higher temperatures to protect bearings under heavy load. |
#37
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 27/09/2016 22:02, wrote:
Your multigrade car oil will be 40 when cold, 10 when hot, so that's not right either. Presumably it uses thick oil so it doesn't drop off the chain. NT =I'm sure that you've got that wrong; multigrade oil offers the characturistics of a thin oil at low temperatures to reduce friction when starting, and a thick oil at higher temperatures to protect bearings under heavy load. You got it right with "characteristics of". It doesnt mean its actually thicker at high temperature. A simplified diagramme is here http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto...multigrade.jpg -- Chris B (News) |
#38
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"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?
On 24/09/2016 22:37, Lobster wrote:
The manual for my rowing machine tells me I need to lubricate the chain every 600 miles with "20 weight" oil. I've never heard this term before but Google tells me (not surprisingly) it's a grading relating to viscosity. I've got two containers of oil in the garage - one's a can of motor oil, rated 10W40 (for which the "W" refers to "Winter" not "Weight") and the other is a small can of thin oil branded "Woolworths", bicycles and sewing machines for the lubrication of. Neither label has any indication as to the content's "weight". Experience suggests to me that my Woolie's can will do the trick, but can anyone shed any light on this? It's not a chain that gets dirty like a bicycle, doesn't travel very fast even if attempting to row fast so doesn't need anti-fling properties. I'd say just give it a wipe over then use a bit of the Woolies oil. If you wipe the chain with a bit of clean tissue and there's still a clean oily residue I'd not even bother re-oiling it. The "service schedule" is there to cover all questions I shouldn't wonder and to cover manufacturer. No gym will ever give their rower any form of service or maintenance. |
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