I'm working on a hall wall worth of shelves and cabinets (see
a.b.p.w. The Next to the Next Off The Wall Project) and, rather
than take them to the floor and do moulding around the base,
I want to hang them 8 to 10" off the floor. I'll avoid doing a
boatload of miterer corners and coping - and make it easy to
get the dust bunnies that appear out of nowhere and hide
under things that make if difficult to capture and remove
them with a vacuum cleaner.

I like the idea of "french cleats" for hanging stuff off the wall.
I made wooden ones to hang the two wall hanging tool cabinets
in the shop. But for my first "house" furniture, I don't want
to screw two halves of a ripped 2x4 into the studs on the
wall and waste hall space to accomodate them in the back
of the shelves.

SO - I saw some "z clips" in aluminum on the Lee Valley site

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...715,43716&ap=1

The tallest shelf unit will be 6' tall, 28" wide and 12" deep.
It'll be out of english sycamore which has a density in
the rock maple range - about 46 pounds/cubic foot and
the shelf wood will be about 2.2 cubic feet - about 100
pounds - without any books. The books could add another
100 pounds.

I'm only going to be able to catch two studs to screw into
and the Z clip stock is 3 1/8" tall by 3/16" thick so I can
get two screws into each stud.

So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done as described
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall
- figuratively and literally.

charlie b

charlieb wrote:

I like the idea of "french cleats" for hanging stuff off the wall.
I made wooden ones to hang the two wall hanging tool cabinets
in the shop. But for my first "house" furniture, I don't want
to screw two halves of a ripped 2x4 into the studs on the
wall and waste hall space to accomodate them in the back
of the shelves.

Not what you are looking for, but how about making just the shelf in front
of the cleat narrow enough to accomodate a wooden cleat? A bit more
complicated, perhaps, but less expensive.

On May 30, 12:29 am, charlieb wrote:

SNIP

The tallest shelf unit will be 6' tall, 28" wide and 12" deep.
It'll be out of english sycamore which has a density in
the rock maple range - about 46 pounds/cubic foot and
the shelf wood will be about 2.2 cubic feet - about 100
pounds - without any books. The books could add another
100 pounds.

I'm only going to be able to catch two studs to screw into
and the Z clip stock is 3 1/8" tall by 3/16" thick so I can
get two screws into each stud.

So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done described above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall - figuratively and literally.

charlie b

Charlie, I think the first thing I would do would be to call LV and
ask. They seem to have a pretty good track record of knowing their
products.

On the other hand, I think at those prices I might just order some
product and test it myself. Try a simple shelf loaded up and see how
it does. I think I would go to a fastener company and get some real
screws too, not the super soft trash sold at the big box or hardware
stores.

A couple of hundred pounds seems a bit light for me considering the
sizes of books I have. A six foot tall cab that is over two feet wide
loaded with Twain, Dickens, Dumas, Sabtini, C.S, Forester and my
Eastman publications would add to 100 lbs by about the fourth shelf.

As always, just my 0.02.

Robert

"charlieb" wrote in message
...

I'm only going to be able to catch two studs to screw into
and the Z clip stock is 3 1/8" tall by 3/16" thick so I can
get two screws into each stud.

So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done as described
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall
- figuratively and literally.

charlie b

When doubt could you use a double row of these for double strength?
Alternatively, Rockler sells these and also sells steel cleats claiming,
Hardened steel for outstanding strength and durability. 18'' in length.
Protrudes 7/16'' from wall when pieces are assembled.


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Also, did you get my e-mail? I was inquiring to see if you might be
interested in a better 24 page Domino owners manual in pdf format? Festool
e-mailed it to me and I would be glad to send it to you.

On Tue, 29 May 2007 22:29:29 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done as described
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall
- figuratively and literally.

I have used 3/4 inch plywood for "french cleats" using 3" drywall
screws with a fender washer. Putting the screws into studs I think you
will be ok, just span two studs minimum.

Mark

"Leon" wrote in
t:


"charlieb" wrote in message
...

I'm only going to be able to catch two studs to screw into
and the Z clip stock is 3 1/8" tall by 3/16" thick so I can
get two screws into each stud.

So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done as described
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall
- figuratively and literally.

charlie b

When doubt could you use a double row of these for double strength?
Alternatively, Rockler sells these and also sells steel cleats
claiming, Hardened steel for outstanding strength and durability. 18''
in length. Protrudes 7/16'' from wall when pieces are assembled.


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details


I've used these Rockler cleats. Right now, a set of them is holding up a
loaded handplane cabinet in my shop. 48" tall, 12" deep, 36" wide. There
are maybe 2 dozen planes there, plus saws, measuring tools, mallets, etc.

The cleats are strong enough.

Patriarch

This place is like magic. Ask a question and get three, four or five
solutions to the problem you're asking about. Am going to try several
of the suggestions ( have six shelves/cabinets to hang). Will go with
masonry/concrete screws because they're a lot harder and stronger
than the silverish - whatever they're made of - screws. Sheet rock
screws - nope.

Thanks for the options.

charlie b

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2007 22:29:29 -0700, charlieb
wrote:


So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done as described
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall
- figuratively and literally.


I have used 3/4 inch plywood for "french cleats" using 3" drywall
screws with a fender washer. Putting the screws into studs I think you
will be ok, just span two studs minimum.

I would be really careful using drywall screws in a load-bearing
situation. Too many horror-stories.

Good screws aren't all that expensive...I recently used some of the Spax
ones from LV and they work nicely. Haven't personally ordered from
McFeeley, but have heard good things about them.

Chris

Somebody wrote:

I have used 3/4 inch plywood for "french cleats" using 3" drywall
screws with a fender washer. Putting the screws into studs I think you
will be ok, just span two studs minimum.

Personally, have absolutely no faith using drywall screws in a load
bearing application.

I like #14, coarse thread, self tapping, pan head, sheet metal screws,
at least 2-1/2" long complete with with fender washers to spread the load.

SFWIW, #14 screw is about 1/4" thread OD.

Use a 3/16" pilot hole drill, drive them with a screw gun, and you are
good to go.

Lew

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Markem wrote:



I would be really careful using drywall screws in a load-bearing
situation. Too many horror-stories.


You have my couriousity. Why not use dry screws on a load bearing wall for
hanging a French cleat? What difference does it make whether the wall is
load bearing or not?

You don't have to explain to me that there are better screws for this type
application, I have been using square drive screws since the 80's.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...




I would be really careful using drywall screws in a load-bearing
situation. Too many horror-stories.


You have my couriousity. Why not use dry screws on a load bearing wall
for hanging a French cleat? What difference does it make whether the wall
is load bearing or not?

You don't have to explain to me that there are better screws for this type
application, I have been using square drive screws since the 80's.



OK! Never mind! Its early! I read that wrong 5 times! I read "load
bearing wall" you said, "load bearing situation".

Sorry. ;~)

On Thu, 07 Jun 2007 11:48:06 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Markem wrote:



I would be really careful using drywall screws in a load-bearing
situation. Too many horror-stories.


You have my couriousity. Why not use dry screws on a load bearing wall for
hanging a French cleat? What difference does it make whether the wall is
load bearing or not?

You don't have to explain to me that there are better screws for this type
application, I have been using square drive screws since the 80's.

Unfortunately my use of drywall screw is as a generic name.

Mark

"Markem" wrote in message
...

Unfortunately my use of drywall screw is as a generic name.

Mark

shame, SHAME On you. ;~)