Paint help for kitchen.
 

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting.

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals?

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed.

I'm happy for white or magnolia colour just don't want to do the job and find it pealing in a years time again.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Regards

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting.

plaster needn't be sealed

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals?

Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck.

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate.

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

Satin's better

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed.

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Thu, 14 Jul 2016 06:18:19 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.

You should look at improving ventilation by using an extractor fan
and/or cooker hood extracting to outdoors before repainting. The
flaking is probably caused by humidity levels being too high.
"Condensing" dryers or washer dryers which do not extract to outside
also contribute a lot of water vapour to the kitchen if that is where
they are situated.

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting.

plaster needn't be sealed

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals?

Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck.

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate.

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

Satin's better

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed.

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


NT


D) plaster sealer
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting.

plaster needn't be sealed

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals?

Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck.

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate.

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

Satin's better

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed.

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting.

plaster needn't be sealed

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals?

Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck.

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate.

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

Satin's better

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed.

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.


NT

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed
the plaster before painting.

plaster needn't be sealed

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint
and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and
easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint
stripper chemicals?

Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape,
sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything
that's stuck.

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more
cleanable than cheapskate.

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2
coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

Satin's better

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to
get confused on how i should proceed.

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?



--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

ARW wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:

Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not
sealed the plaster before painting.

plaster needn't be sealed

My questions are :-

1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the
paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the
best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun
remove it? paint stripper chemicals?

Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No.
Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to
remove anything that's stuck.

2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster.
What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out?

Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more
cleanable than cheapskate.

I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and
use 2 coats.
and no need for kitchen paint.

Satin's better

I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting
to get confused on how i should proceed.

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the
plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?




I've always used a), never had the paint fall off.

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed.


NT


Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting
with water would mean the start point would be dry before I
completed the water coat.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed.

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting
with water would mean the start point would be dry before I
completed the water coat.

It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed.

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting
with water would mean the start point would be dry before I
completed the water coat.

It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual.


NT


I wouldn't dream of stealing your trademark approach nige :-D :-D

So you're saying once you've slapped water over your plaster
ceiling when you did it (assuming you've ever actually done it
;-) ) it stayed wet "forever"? Interesting if doubtful....

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

Depends how much you value your time ****ing about making **** coats.
(NB A sealer comes ready to apply ;-) )

Hope that's clearer for you.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Friday, 15 July 2016 19:06:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed.

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting
with water would mean the start point would be dry before I
completed the water coat.

It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual.


NT


I wouldn't dream of stealing your trademark approach nige :-D :-D

So you're saying once you've slapped water over your plaster
ceiling when you did it (assuming you've ever actually done it
;-) ) it stayed wet "forever"? Interesting if doubtful....

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

Depends how much you value your time ****ing about making **** coats.
(NB A sealer comes ready to apply ;-) )

Hope that's clearer for you.

Yes it's clearer that you're a clueless time waster.

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Friday, 15 July 2016 19:06:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.

D) plaster sealer

Sure, you can always be a mug.

Just as well reasoned as ever ;-)

One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed.

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting
with water would mean the start point would be dry before I
completed the water coat.

It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual.


NT


I wouldn't dream of stealing your trademark approach nige :-D :-D

So you're saying once you've slapped water over your plaster
ceiling when you did it (assuming you've ever actually done it
;-) ) it stayed wet "forever"? Interesting if doubtful....

Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats.

quicker than a coat of sealer

Depends how much you value your time ****ing about making **** coats.
(NB A sealer comes ready to apply ;-) )

Hope that's clearer for you.

Yes it's clearer that you're a clueless time waster.


It's clear to me that you are a trolling ****wit nige

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.

--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.


You really did read it all here first....ever...
:-D

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.


Er... Widnes?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

jim k Wrote in message:
"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.


Er... Widnes?

Wellie?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.

Paint help for kitchen.
 

"jim" k wrote in message
o.uk...
jim k Wrote in message:
"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as
normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks
paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of
paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen
at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.


Er... Widnes?

Wellie?

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ryjm8

any help?



--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as
normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks
paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of
paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen
at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as
normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks
paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of
paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen
at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

You are indeed sir.

Paint help for kitchen.
 

"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as
normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks
paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of
paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen
at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.


+1
:-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

You are indeed sir.


And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

"ARW" Wrote in message:
"jim" k wrote in message
o.uk...
jim k Wrote in message:
"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message

PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry
plaster
results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster,
leaving
it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions:
a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first
b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as
normal.
c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks
paint
won't
stick to.
I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid.


so b) is quicker and stronger than a)?

Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of
paint
where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a
few
minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of
the
diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it
doesn't.



Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen
at
work doing it wrong then.

It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water.


Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.


Er... Widnes?

Wellie?

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ryjm8

any help?




Winker?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

You are indeed sir.


And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

You are indeed sir.


And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said.


NT


But how many times have you done this?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into
view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

You are indeed sir.


And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about
13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in
paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on
the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument
to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much
more need be said.

FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever
seen at work doing it wrong then."

ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again"

ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse"


http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg

Try some visual abuse instead.

--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into
view?

Begins with a W.

No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again.


******.

You are indeed sir.


And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about
13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in
paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on
the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument
to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much
more need be said.

FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever
seen at work doing it wrong then."

ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again"

I figured you were incapable of rational argument.


ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse"


http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg

Try some visual abuse instead.

Your standard senseless reaction to many things. Bye.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

You have no experience of this, so there's no actual knowledge going to come from you on this. That only leaves you with argument.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about
13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in
paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on
the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument
to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much
more need be said.

FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever
seen at work doing it wrong then."

no, that's an incorrect deduction based on a false dichotomy

ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again"

no, that's an invalid conclusion based on the false argument of appeal to the people

ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse"

http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg

Try some visual abuse instead.

abuse normally means someone is incapable of accepting the facts or resolving the situation.

Experience is worth a lot more, but you've never tried the method. Despite that you're sure you know what you obviously don't.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said.

But how many times have you done this?

I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times.


NT

Paint help for kitchen.
 

wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

You have no experience of this, so there's no actual knowledge going to
come from you on this. That only leaves you with argument.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for
about
13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content
in
paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You
on
the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or
argument
to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not
much
more need be said.

FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever
seen at work doing it wrong then."

no, that's an incorrect deduction based on a false dichotomy

ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again"

no, that's an invalid conclusion based on the false argument of appeal to
the people

ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse"

http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg

Try some visual abuse instead.

abuse normally means someone is incapable of accepting the facts or
resolving the situation.

Experience is worth a lot more, but you've never tried the method. Despite
that you're sure you know what you obviously don't.


All I am saying is that you are an experienced ******.



--
Adam

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said.

But how many times have you done this?

I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times.


NT


So you're saying that at least once a year for 13years you've
been painting bare plaster?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

You have no experience of this, so there's no actual knowledge going to come from you on this. That only leaves you with argument.

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about
13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in
paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on
the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument
to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much
more need be said.

FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever
seen at work doing it wrong then."

no, that's an incorrect deduction based on a false dichotomy

ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again"

no, that's an invalid conclusion based on the false argument of appeal to the people

ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse"

http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg

Try some visual abuse instead.

abuse normally means someone is incapable of accepting the facts or resolving the situation.

Experience is worth a lot more, but you've never tried the method. Despite that you're sure you know what you obviously don't.


NT


Er... Is that it or do you need a third attempt?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Paint help for kitchen.
 

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On 19/07/16 23:28, Capitol wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method
for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory
of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this
method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the
method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only
resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be
said.
But how many times have you done this?
I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times.


NT

I've used the diluted first coat for 50 years and it works. There
is no need for finesse on the edges with the first coat, just slap it on.

yeah. either works.

AS the guy says, the important thing is damp plaster or sealed plaster.
Emulsion paint is sort of PVA plus pigment anyway.

"The paint type known as Emulsion in the UK and Latex in the USA is a
water-borne dispersion of sub-micrometer polymer particles. These terms
in their respective countries cover all paints that use synthetic
polymers such as acrylic, vinyl acrylic (PVA), styrene acrylic, etc. as
binders."
(Wiki/paint)

So PVA that isn't diluted is just as bad.

Getting the plaster wet is what is important. But its almost as quick to
slap on a **** coat as to slap on water. So why not get at least a bit
of colour build at the same time?

I may not be totally accurate, but as far as I can tell PVA and other
acrylics start off as very dilute things (emulsion pain) through
slightly thicker things (PVA sealers/acrylic paint) to even thicker
things (PVA glue) to really thick things (decorators caulk).


The underlying substrate is PVA, but that gets loaded with various
pigments and fillers in the case of the caulks and paints




--
€œIt is hard to imagine a more stupid decision or more dangerous way of
making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of people
who pay no price for being wrong.€�

Thomas Sowell

Paint help for kitchen.
 

On Wednesday, 20 July 2016 07:41:08 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 19/07/16 23:28, Capitol wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method
for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory
of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this
method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the
method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only
resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be
said.
But how many times have you done this?
I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times.

I've used the diluted first coat for 50 years and it works. There
is no need for finesse on the edges with the first coat, just slap it on.