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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Paint help for kitchen.
Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel.
Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting. My questions are :- 1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals? 2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster. What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out? I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats. and no need for kitchen paint. I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed. I'm happy for white or magnolia colour just don't want to do the job and find it pealing in a years time again. Any advise would be appreciated. Regards |
#2
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote:
Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel. Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting. plaster needn't be sealed My questions are :- 1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals? Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck. 2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster. What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out? Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate. I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats. and no need for kitchen paint. Satin's better I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed. PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. NT |
#3
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Paint help for kitchen.
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#5
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote: Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel. Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting. plaster needn't be sealed My questions are :- 1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals? Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck. 2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster. What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out? Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate. I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats. and no need for kitchen paint. Satin's better I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed. PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. NT |
#6
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote: Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel. Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting. plaster needn't be sealed My questions are :- 1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals? Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck. 2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster. What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out? Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate. I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats. and no need for kitchen paint. Satin's better I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed. PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. NT Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote: Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel. Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting. plaster needn't be sealed My questions are :- 1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals? Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck. 2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster. What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out? Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate. I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats. and no need for kitchen paint. Satin's better I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed. PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? -- Adam |
#8
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Paint help for kitchen.
ARW wrote:
wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 14:18:29 UTC+1, Stuart Faust wrote: Hi, my kitchen walls have started to peel. Not sure if its the old house owners have used normal paint or not sealed the plaster before painting. plaster needn't be sealed My questions are :- 1. I have areas that i have used a stripper blade on to remove the paint and areas that it seems are far harder to remove. Whats the best and easiest way of removing this old paint. will a heat gun remove it? paint stripper chemicals? Imagine painting new paint on top of stripper soaked plaster. No. Scrape, sand or skim if necessary, but normally there's no need to remove anything that's stuck. 2. When its all removed i will have left , bare plaster. What sort of paint do i need to use to sort this out? Emulsion. Satin is more cleanable than matt, and decent stuff more cleanable than cheapskate. I've been told by a local DIY shop to use contract matt paint and use 2 coats. and no need for kitchen paint. Satin's better I've read about putting PVA mixed on the first few coats so starting to get confused on how i should proceed. PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? I've always used a), never had the paint fall off. |
#9
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. NT |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed. NT |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed. NT Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting with water would mean the start point would be dry before I completed the water coat. -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#12
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed. Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting with water would mean the start point would be dry before I completed the water coat. It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual. NT |
#13
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed. Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting with water would mean the start point would be dry before I completed the water coat. It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual. NT I wouldn't dream of stealing your trademark approach nige :-D :-D So you're saying once you've slapped water over your plaster ceiling when you did it (assuming you've ever actually done it ;-) ) it stayed wet "forever"? Interesting if doubtful.... Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer Depends how much you value your time ****ing about making **** coats. (NB A sealer comes ready to apply ;-) ) Hope that's clearer for you. -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#14
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Friday, 15 July 2016 19:06:44 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed. Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting with water would mean the start point would be dry before I completed the water coat. It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual. NT I wouldn't dream of stealing your trademark approach nige :-D :-D So you're saying once you've slapped water over your plaster ceiling when you did it (assuming you've ever actually done it ;-) ) it stayed wet "forever"? Interesting if doubtful.... Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer Depends how much you value your time ****ing about making **** coats. (NB A sealer comes ready to apply ;-) ) Hope that's clearer for you. Yes it's clearer that you're a clueless time waster. |
#15
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Friday, 15 July 2016 19:06:44 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Friday, 15 July 2016 16:16:30 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:55:44 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: On Thursday, 14 July 2016 19:15:43 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. D) plaster sealer Sure, you can always be a mug. Just as well reasoned as ever ;-) One only need look at the prices to see the reason. Plaster sealer is simply not needed. Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer If you have large ceilings like mine (YMMV) ****ing about painting with water would mean the start point would be dry before I completed the water coat. It doesn't. It soaks in. It's very fast to do. But keep telling us about things of which you know nothing as usual. NT I wouldn't dream of stealing your trademark approach nige :-D :-D So you're saying once you've slapped water over your plaster ceiling when you did it (assuming you've ever actually done it ;-) ) it stayed wet "forever"? Interesting if doubtful.... Depends how much one values ones time ****ing about making **** coats. quicker than a coat of sealer Depends how much you value your time ****ing about making **** coats. (NB A sealer comes ready to apply ;-) ) Hope that's clearer for you. Yes it's clearer that you're a clueless time waster. It's clear to me that you are a trolling ****wit nige -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#16
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. -- Adam |
#17
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. NT |
#18
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. You really did read it all here first....ever... :-D -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. -- Adam |
#20
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. Er... Widnes? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#21
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Paint help for kitchen.
jim k Wrote in message:
"ARW" Wrote in message: wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. Er... Widnes? Wellie? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#22
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. |
#23
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Paint help for kitchen.
"jim" k wrote in message
o.uk... jim k Wrote in message: "ARW" Wrote in message: wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. Er... Widnes? Wellie? http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ryjm8 any help? -- Adam |
#24
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. -- Adam |
#25
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. You are indeed sir. |
#26
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
"ARW" Wrote in message:
wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 20:36:53 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. +1 :-) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#27
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. You are indeed sir. And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****. -- Adam |
#28
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
"ARW" Wrote in message:
"jim" k wrote in message o.uk... jim k Wrote in message: "ARW" Wrote in message: wrote in message ... On Saturday, 16 July 2016 09:49:54 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Thursday, 14 July 2016 21:23:52 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message PVAing the plaster is a fashion without need. Paint onto bare dry plaster results in the liquid in the paint being sucked into the plaster, leaving it short of glue, hence the peeling. Solutions: a) 50/50 diluted ****coat first b) paint the plaster with water, wait 5 minutes then paint as normal. c) dilute PVA onto plaster first. Too much and you get slicks paint won't stick to. I prefer B, it's quicker & stronger. C I'd avoid. so b) is quicker and stronger than a)? Yes. The watercoat is extremely fast to do, nothing like a coat of paint where you need to take some care. So you get a full strength coat in a few minutes more than it takes to do the ****coat. With a ****coat much of the diluted glue soaks into the plaster, weakening the paint. With B it doesn't. Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then. It's not wrong to use a ****coat, just quicker to use water. Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. Er... Widnes? Wellie? http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ryjm8 any help? Winker? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#29
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. You are indeed sir. And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. NT |
#30
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. You are indeed sir. And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. NT But how many times have you done this? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#31
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. You are indeed sir. And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then." ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again" ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse" http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg Try some visual abuse instead. -- Adam |
#32
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: Is that the sound of a six letter word I can hear stomping into view? Begins with a W. No, it's the sound of you being thick and childish again. ******. You are indeed sir. And the same to you with brass knobs on you steaming great ****. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then." ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again" I figured you were incapable of rational argument. ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse" http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg Try some visual abuse instead. Your standard senseless reaction to many things. Bye. NT |
#33
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: You have no experience of this, so there's no actual knowledge going to come from you on this. That only leaves you with argument. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then." no, that's an incorrect deduction based on a false dichotomy ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again" no, that's an invalid conclusion based on the false argument of appeal to the people ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse" http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg Try some visual abuse instead. abuse normally means someone is incapable of accepting the facts or resolving the situation. Experience is worth a lot more, but you've never tried the method. Despite that you're sure you know what you obviously don't. NT |
#34
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message: Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. But how many times have you done this? I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times. NT |
#35
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
wrote in message
... On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: You have no experience of this, so there's no actual knowledge going to come from you on this. That only leaves you with argument. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then." no, that's an incorrect deduction based on a false dichotomy ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again" no, that's an invalid conclusion based on the false argument of appeal to the people ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse" http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg Try some visual abuse instead. abuse normally means someone is incapable of accepting the facts or resolving the situation. Experience is worth a lot more, but you've never tried the method. Despite that you're sure you know what you obviously don't. All I am saying is that you are an experienced ******. -- Adam |
#36
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. But how many times have you done this? I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times. NT So you're saying that at least once a year for 13years you've been painting bare plaster? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#37
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 19:59:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 20:27:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote: tabbypurr wrote in message ... On Sunday, 17 July 2016 16:13:24 UTC+1, ARW wrote: You have no experience of this, so there's no actual knowledge going to come from you on this. That only leaves you with argument. Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. FACT = "Well that's every professional painter and decorator I have ever seen at work doing it wrong then." no, that's an incorrect deduction based on a false dichotomy ARGUMENT = "You are talking ****e again" no, that's an invalid conclusion based on the false argument of appeal to the people ABUSE = "" Can only resort to verbal abuse" http://img.uvumi.com/photos/1197/big/******-1-.jpg Try some visual abuse instead. abuse normally means someone is incapable of accepting the facts or resolving the situation. Experience is worth a lot more, but you've never tried the method. Despite that you're sure you know what you obviously don't. NT Er... Is that it or do you need a third attempt? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#38
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
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#39
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Paint help for kitchen.
On 19/07/16 23:28, Capitol wrote:
wrote: On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. But how many times have you done this? I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times. NT I've used the diluted first coat for 50 years and it works. There is no need for finesse on the edges with the first coat, just slap it on. yeah. either works. AS the guy says, the important thing is damp plaster or sealed plaster. Emulsion paint is sort of PVA plus pigment anyway. "The paint type known as Emulsion in the UK and Latex in the USA is a water-borne dispersion of sub-micrometer polymer particles. These terms in their respective countries cover all paints that use synthetic polymers such as acrylic, vinyl acrylic (PVA), styrene acrylic, etc. as binders." (Wiki/paint) So PVA that isn't diluted is just as bad. Getting the plaster wet is what is important. But its almost as quick to slap on a **** coat as to slap on water. So why not get at least a bit of colour build at the same time? I may not be totally accurate, but as far as I can tell PVA and other acrylics start off as very dilute things (emulsion pain) through slightly thicker things (PVA sealers/acrylic paint) to even thicker things (PVA glue) to really thick things (decorators caulk). The underlying substrate is PVA, but that gets loaded with various pigments and fillers in the case of the caulks and paints -- It is hard to imagine a more stupid decision or more dangerous way of making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of people who pay no price for being wrong. Thomas Sowell |
#40
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Paint help for kitchen.
On Wednesday, 20 July 2016 07:41:08 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 19/07/16 23:28, Capitol wrote: tabbypurr wrote: On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 08:55:52 UTC+1, jim wrote: tabbypurr Wrote in message: Well, lets look at the facts. I've been using this painting method for about 13 years, and it's served me just fine. The basic theory of glue content in paint isn't complex, and the theory behind this method adds up too. You on the other hand have never tried the method, have no valid facts or argument to offer, and can only resort to verbal abuse, as is your tendency. Not much more need be said. But how many times have you done this? I haven't kept count. At a rough estimate maybe a dozen times. I've used the diluted first coat for 50 years and it works. There is no need for finesse on the edges with the first coat, just slap it on. |
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