With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think Wickes not glued - of flatpack?

On 06/07/2016 22:18, Peter wrote:
With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor
units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall
wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting
down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience
of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints
glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think
Wickes not glued - of flatpack?

I have cut down kitchen units - and it can be a right pain.

The front of the unit isn't an issue. But towards the back you typically
have slots for the back to slide into. Drawer runners and drawers which
might no longer fit. The screws to hold the unit together are likely to
be in the back 100mm - even if there are some forward of that, it won't
be enough. The holes for shelf supports will be in the wrong place.

I was so very much happier at my attempts at making cupboards using
"spare" parts from B&Q. What were supposed to be parts of other kitchen
units - decent quality laminated board with nice smoothly curved edges.
Sold off relatively cheaply - though not sure if they still do that? I
used good quality hardware (e.g. Blum hinges), which make the whole
cabinets work nicely. But a surprising amount of work.

Didn't know this company existed, let alone anything about them, but
suggest you keep looking

http://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-...-deep/wp13834/

--
Rod

On 06/07/2016 22:18, Peter wrote:
With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think Wickes not glued - of flatpack?


The Magnet units I installed a few years ago were not far off that.
Once you start reducing the depth you do have problems with hobs and sinks.


--
Michael Chare


---
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On 7/6/2016 10:18 PM, Peter wrote:
With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think Wickes not glued - of flatpack?

How many units are you looking for? I'd agree with other poster who says
cutting down is possible but not as easy as you might think.

I have a non-standard (width) sink unit in my kitchen and I made the
carcase from 18 mm ply, cut with a sawboard, and joined with biscuits.
Once you have these tools (plus two clamps, a workmate and an adjustable
prop to support large bits when sawing) it is surprisingly quick and
easy to make an accurate and strong "box". I'd mount it on the standard
adjustable plastic feet used on most modern kitchen units. Biggest
effort might be painting it. Buy doors separately, and get good quality
hinges.

When I was on a tight budget in my first house and needed some narrow
base units I fabricated them from standard melamine coated chipboard and
2x1 battens, but they were not very satisfactory.

On Wednesday, 6 July 2016 23:27:04 UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
Once you start reducing the depth you do have problems with hobs and sinks.

Two-ring 'domino' hobs are widely available and can be mounted sideways.

Very small sinks and hobs (and combinations) are available from caravan suppliers.

Owain

On 06/07/2016 22:58, polygonum wrote:
On 06/07/2016 22:18, Peter wrote:
With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor
units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall
wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting
down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience
of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints
glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think
Wickes not glued - of flatpack?

I have cut down kitchen units - and it can be a right pain.

The front of the unit isn't an issue. But towards the back you typically
have slots for the back to slide into. Drawer runners and drawers which
might no longer fit. The screws to hold the unit together are likely to
be in the back 100mm - even if there are some forward of that, it won't
be enough. The holes for shelf supports will be in the wrong place.

The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the
backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind). It
would be easy to cut along or just in front of the slot, making them
shallower and simply glue and pin backs on. It's worth a good look at
the various carcasses available these days, I'm sure some will be adaptable.

Steve Walker wrote:

The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the
backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind).

Just measured my B&Q cabinets (about 9 year old, maybe they've changed)
you'd be hard pushed to carve much more than 80mm off the back without
having to completely re-jig the slot/rebate for the back.

On 07/07/2016 22:13, Andy Burns wrote:
Steve Walker wrote:

The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the
backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind).

Just measured my B&Q cabinets (about 9 year old, maybe they've changed)
you'd be hard pushed to carve much more than 80mm off the back without
having to completely re-jig the slot/rebate for the back.

That was my experience. I *thought* the rebate was about 75mm in but
that is purely from memory.

--
Rod

On 07/07/2016 15:00, wrote:
On Wednesday, 6 July 2016 23:27:04 UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
Once you start reducing the depth you do have problems with hobs and sinks.

Two-ring 'domino' hobs are widely available and can be mounted sideways.

Very small sinks and hobs (and combinations) are available from caravan suppliers.

Owain

You can also get four ring hobs (at least induction hobs) which have the
rings stretched out - like this one:

http://www.johnlewis.com/neff-t41d90...-black/p819142

--
Rod

On 07/07/2016 22:39, polygonum wrote:
On 07/07/2016 22:13, Andy Burns wrote:
Steve Walker wrote:

The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the
backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind).

Just measured my B&Q cabinets (about 9 year old, maybe they've changed)
you'd be hard pushed to carve much more than 80mm off the back without
having to completely re-jig the slot/rebate for the back.

That was my experience. I *thought* the rebate was about 75mm in but
that is purely from memory.


You don't absolutely need a back.

On Thursday, 7 July 2016 23:11:24 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 07/07/2016 22:39, polygonum wrote:
On 07/07/2016 22:13, Andy Burns wrote:
Steve Walker wrote:

The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the
backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind).

Just measured my B&Q cabinets (about 9 year old, maybe they've changed)
you'd be hard pushed to carve much more than 80mm off the back without
having to completely re-jig the slot/rebate for the back.

That was my experience. I *thought* the rebate was about 75mm in but
that is purely from memory.


You don't absolutely need a back.

You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the doors & the contents.


NT

On 07/07/2016 23:11, GB wrote:
On 07/07/2016 22:39, polygonum wrote:
On 07/07/2016 22:13, Andy Burns wrote:
Steve Walker wrote:

The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the
backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind).

Just measured my B&Q cabinets (about 9 year old, maybe they've changed)
you'd be hard pushed to carve much more than 80mm off the back without
having to completely re-jig the slot/rebate for the back.

That was my experience. I *thought* the rebate was about 75mm in but
that is purely from memory.


You don't absolutely need a back.


True.

--
Rod

On Friday, 8 July 2016 02:56:15 UTC+1, wrote:
You don't absolutely need a back.
You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the doors & the contents.

I've always been a little bit sceptical about backs concealing pipework. How do you clean behind them or get access in the event of a leak?

Owain

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 01:30:08 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 02:56:15 UTC+1, wrote:
You don't absolutely need a back.
You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the doors & the
contents.

I've always been a little bit sceptical about backs concealing pipework.
How do you clean behind them or get access in the event of a leak?

In the case of bathroom units, this is what I did in a previous house.

It was one of those flatpack units with cam locks in the back panel and
pins protruding from the sides. I reversed the panel (laminated both
sides) and cut slots instead of holes from the edge. I could then remove
it from the front.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

wrote:

GB wrote:

tabbypurr wrote:

You don't absolutely need a back.

You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the
doors & the contents.

They do provide rigidity.

I've always been a little bit sceptical about backs concealing
pipework. How do you clean behind them or get access in the event of
a leak?

Clean behind them?? Just leave the spiders to it and forget about it.

There's a few 4" holes drilled in the backs of mine to get at water and
gas valves, these are covered by flaps of matching back panel on
insulating tape hinges.

On 08/07/2016 09:58, Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

GB wrote:

tabbypurr wrote:

You don't absolutely need a back.

You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the
doors & the contents.

They do provide rigidity.

I find screwing the units to the wall is sufficient for rigidity.

Obviously backs look nicer, but if you are cutting down the units
anyway, space inside the cupboards is limited, and it may be better to
put up with some visible piping and wiring. That's a matter of personal
preference, of course.

On Friday, 8 July 2016 12:21:12 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 08/07/2016 09:58, Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:
GB wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

You don't absolutely need a back.

You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the
doors & the contents.

They do provide rigidity.

I find screwing the units to the wall is sufficient for rigidity.

Obviously backs look nicer, but if you are cutting down the units
anyway, space inside the cupboards is limited, and it may be better to
put up with some visible piping and wiring. That's a matter of personal
preference, of course.

Yes + yes. I don't like wasting space for nothing of any value to me.


NT

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 8 July 2016 12:21:12 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 08/07/2016 09:58, Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:
GB wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

You don't absolutely need a back.

You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the
doors & the contents.

They do provide rigidity.

I find screwing the units to the wall is sufficient for rigidity.

Obviously backs look nicer, but if you are cutting down the units
anyway, space inside the cupboards is limited, and it may be better to
put up with some visible piping and wiring. That's a matter of personal
preference, of course.

Yes + yes. I don't like wasting space for nothing of any value to me.

Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires. Assuming of course you do actually
intend to make full use of the back of the cupbpoard right up to the
wall

Unless of course you've got the time and the inclination to spend time
faffing about, possibly down on your hands and knees making sure
that everything is stowed and removed with the neceesary degree
of care.


michael adams

....

On Friday, 8 July 2016 19:23:37 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires.

why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?

Owain

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 8 July 2016 19:23:37 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires.

why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?

Because they're there ?

To be quite honest with you, anyone aspiring to DIY, who hasn't yet
worked out quite how easy it is to attache a piece of white faced hardboard
to the back of a cupboard made of say 15 or 18 mm chip or MDF using nothing more
complicated than 20 odd 1 inch wire nails, a bradawl and a small hammer
should maybe give some serious consideration to what they're doing with
their lives. Oh sorry I forgot to add the pencil and the ruler needed to draw the
line 7.5/9 mm from the edge around the sides of the hairy face,
Using a bradawl also offers the opportunity to practice the use of angled or
dovetail nailing without bending too many nails.


michael adams

....

On Friday, 8 July 2016 20:20:45 UTC+1, wrote:
On Friday, 8 July 2016 19:23:37 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:

Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires.

why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?

Owain

I've no idea. I have pipes & wires round most of the house, and can't say I've found it a problem.


NT

On Friday, 8 July 2016 20:50:06 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 8 July 2016 19:23:37 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:

Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires.

why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?

Because they're there ?

To be quite honest with you, anyone aspiring to DIY, who hasn't yet
worked out quite how easy it is to attache a piece of white faced hardboard
to the back of a cupboard made of say 15 or 18 mm chip or MDF using nothing more
complicated than 20 odd 1 inch wire nails, a bradawl and a small hammer
should maybe give some serious consideration to what they're doing with
their lives. Oh sorry I forgot to add the pencil and the ruler needed to draw the
line 7.5/9 mm from the edge around the sides of the hairy face,
Using a bradawl also offers the opportunity to practice the use of angled or
dovetail nailing without bending too many nails.

I've no doubt there are 'ones that should maybe give some serious consideration to what they're doing with their lives,' but I don't think you've come anywhere remotely near identifying who they are.


NT

On 08/07/2016 20:49, michael adams wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 8 July 2016 19:23:37 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires.

why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?

Because they're there ?

To be quite honest with you, anyone aspiring to DIY, who hasn't yet
worked out quite how easy it is to attache a piece of white faced hardboard
to the back of a cupboard made of say 15 or 18 mm chip or MDF using nothing more
complicated than 20 odd 1 inch wire nails, a bradawl and a small hammer
should maybe give some serious consideration to what they're doing with
their lives. Oh sorry I forgot to add the pencil and the ruler needed to draw the
line 7.5/9 mm from the edge around the sides of the hairy face,
Using a bradawl also offers the opportunity to practice the use of angled or
dovetail nailing without bending too many nails.


michael adams

....


If there are pipes clipped to the wall, won't you have to cut the
cabinets down still further if you put a flat back on?

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 17:33:25 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 20:20:45 UTC+1, wrote:
On Friday, 8 July 2016 19:23:37 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:

Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard
snagging on pipes and wires.

why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?

Owain

I've no idea. I have pipes & wires round most of the house, and can't
say I've found it a problem.


Personally speaking "Out of sight, out of mind (bit still accessible)"
does it for me. :-)

--
Johnny B Good

On Wednesday, 6 July 2016 22:18:38 UTC+1, Peter wrote:
With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think Wickes not glued - of flatpack?

Thanks all suggestions. diy kitchens would have been good but they don't have an L-corner unit which I would like. I can see there are different possibilities with chopping factory units but after spending such a lot (about £700 for 4 Wickes 'half price' units it seems crazy. Too much work for me builing them from scratch.

Will think on...

On Friday, 15 July 2016 13:32:41 UTC+1, Peter wrote:
On Wednesday, 6 July 2016 22:18:38 UTC+1, Peter wrote:
With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall wall units - these are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience of this? Went to Howdens today but theirs are assembled and joints glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think Wickes not glued - of flatpack?

Thanks all suggestions. diy kitchens would have been good but they don't have an L-corner unit which I would like. I can see there are different possibilities with chopping factory units but after spending such a lot (about £700 for 4 Wickes 'half price' units it seems crazy. Too much work for me builing them from scratch.

Will think on...

Kitchen cabs are pretty simple to make if you buy the doors.


NT