Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

--
Rod

On 14/05/16 08:23, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum
wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Piggy-backing on your query, what's the best form of loft insulation
when boarding out? The recommended thickness of fibreglass insulation
is 8" IIRC, but that's much thicker than the depth between the
underlying ceiling joists and would be much compressed if boards were
put over it, and would lose a lot of its insulating capacity. Do
thinner slabs of rigid foam (Celotex, Kingspan or whatever) between
the joists, achieve the same degree of insulation (resulting in a
'cold' loft), or is it better to put such insulation up between the
rafters, resulting in a 'warm' loft. The loft I have in mind is quite
drafty, so I guess insulation between the joists would be preferable.


Celotex (etc) is about twice as good thickness for thickness as
glasswool (or rockwool or sheepswool).

Personally I prefer it between the rafters, BUT you have to know the
roof has sufficient ventilation over the top of the insulation otherwise
condensation can form causing rot. As a guide, my BCO wanted:

1) 50mm air gap and soffit + top vents (tile or ridge) with sarking;

or

2) 25mm air gap and no vents with Tyvek type breathable membrane.

As I had to get the roof retiled I went for 2.

Chris Hogg Wrote in message:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum
wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Piggy-backing on your query, what's the best form of loft insulation
when boarding out? The recommended thickness of fibreglass insulation
is 8" IIRC, but that's much thicker than the depth between the
underlying ceiling joists and would be much compressed if boards were
put over it, and would lose a lot of its insulating capacity.

Google "loft legs"...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Chris Hogg Wrote in message:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum
wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Piggy-backing on your query, what's the best form of loft insulation
when boarding out? The recommended thickness of fibreglass insulation
is 8" IIRC, but that's much thicker than the depth between the
underlying ceiling joists and would be much compressed if boards were
put over it, and would lose a lot of its insulating capacity. Do
thinner slabs of rigid foam (Celotex, Kingspan or whatever) between
the joists, achieve the same degree of insulation (resulting in a
'cold' loft), or is it better to put such insulation up between the
rafters, resulting in a 'warm' loft. The loft I have in mind is quite
drafty, so I guess insulation between the joists would be preferable.

That's the point of those plastic legs for taking the storage
floor the OP mentions

--
--
Chris French

polygonum wrote:
Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have
been using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing
special but adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden
ones quieter or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out
seem the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is
best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is
readily available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm
make much difference on the real world?


I always loose lay 18mm chipboard cut from 8 x 4 sheets to rest
on the joists. That way, you still have access to wiring etc. It was
usefull last year when a pipe pinholed and flooded the loft insulation,
so that drying it all out was relatively easy.

"Capitol" wrote in message
o.uk...
polygonum wrote:
Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder and
board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter or
otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?


I always loose lay 18mm chipboard cut from 8 x 4 sheets to rest on
the joists. That way, you still have access to wiring etc. It was usefull
last year when a pipe pinholed and flooded the loft insulation, so that
drying it all out was relatively easy.

An improvement on that is seconds of cellotex/kingspan laid over the joists,
and loose T&G chipboard over the top. This gives you reasonable access
later, and is a cost effective increase in the insulation. The PU foam
sheets are quite solid enough to support the chip over the joists with no
fixing of either.


100mm of glass or rockwool between the joists and 50 or preferably 75mm of
PU foam gives you the equivalent of 200 or 250mm of glass/rockwool, which
while not quite up to current building standards will make a huge difference
to your heat losses.

If you do need to get up to current standards 100mm or two layers of 50mm PU
foam over the joists will do it, and for our extension the buildings
inspector was quite happy with that.

Charles F



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

Cheers

Dave R



--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On 14/05/2016 13:00, Capitol wrote:


I always loose lay 18mm chipboard cut from 8 x 4 sheets to rest
on the joists. That way, you still have access to wiring etc. It was
usefull last year when a pipe pinholed and flooded the loft insulation,
so that drying it all out was relatively easy.

Appreciate the thought, but no pipes up there.

--
Rod

On 14/05/2016 13:38, Charles F wrote:

If you do need to get up to current standards

Thanks but it will already be to current standards. So no need to change
the insulation and probably very poor payback for any additional measures.

--
Rod

On 14/05/2016 15:35, David wrote:
One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

I don't think I could manage getting 8x4 sheets up there!

At a quick glance, the only wooden ladder at B&Q is a Werner. Is trhat
what you got - and are happy with?

http://www.diy.com/departments/werne.../808381_BQ.prd

--
Rod

On 14 May 2016 14:35:36 GMT, David wrote:

On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

Cheers

Dave R

+1 for the loft hatch. I got one wit an integral ladder (note: can't reall
insulate it as the ladder is close to the hatch) and that fitted, almost, 2
spacings.
Although 4' would go diagonally, I was on my own and couldn't lift and
manipulate 8x4. Used 2' water-resistant T&G chipboard from Wickes (a piece
left outside in rain suffered no ill effects).
I cut the tongue back to the first shoulder and took off some of the bottom
of the groove, so that there's still some engagement but boards can be
lifted.
No extra insulation, as I didn't want to lose headroom - at 6' 4" I need all
I can get.
I am tempted to add 30mm to the joists: support the ceiling with props to
give a bit of pre-load, glue and screw 30mm (true) to the nom. 75mm (3"
supposedly) joists to clear 100mm, then use 100mm Celotex (can't use 75mm as
the joists are about 72 - 73mm in places) all sealed a a vapour barrier.
Replace the boarding and that should be an improvement on 75mm of compressed
G/F.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Saturday, 14 May 2016 17:17:12 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
On 14 May 2016 14:35:36 GMT, David wrote:

On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

Cheers

Dave R

+1 for the loft hatch. I got one wit an integral ladder (note: can't reall
insulate it as the ladder is close to the hatch) and that fitted, almost, 2
spacings.
Although 4' would go diagonally, I was on my own and couldn't lift and
manipulate 8x4. Used 2' water-resistant T&G chipboard from Wickes (a piece
left outside in rain suffered no ill effects).
I cut the tongue back to the first shoulder and took off some of the bottom
of the groove, so that there's still some engagement but boards can be
lifted.
No extra insulation, as I didn't want to lose headroom - at 6' 4" I need all
I can get.
I am tempted to add 30mm to the joists: support the ceiling with props to
give a bit of pre-load, glue and screw 30mm (true) to the nom. 75mm (3"
supposedly) joists to clear 100mm, then use 100mm Celotex (can't use 75mm as
the joists are about 72 - 73mm in places) all sealed a a vapour barrier.
Replace the boarding and that should be an improvement on 75mm of compressed
G/F.

Compressed girlfriend? What's going on over there!


NT

On 13/05/2016 22:05, polygonum wrote:
Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Any within reason will do the job. You can get some nice wood ones with
wide treads that are more like a folding staircase. Pricey and more work
to fit, but a much more comfortable "climb".

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Pass.

Having said that, I would tuck rockwool etc between the joists, then lay
PIR foam boards over the top, and place the flooring directly on top. No
need for legs then, and less lost height due to the better insulating
properties of the foam.

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Go for the lightest...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, 14 May 2016 18:47:38 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/05/2016 22:05, polygonum wrote:

Having said that, I would tuck rockwool etc between the joists, then lay
PIR foam boards over the top, and place the flooring directly on top. No
need for legs then, and less lost height due to the better insulating
properties of the foam.

it would probably be fine, but does carry at least some risk of interstitial condensation. You shouldn't really put a foil barrier on the colder side of insulation, which it would be there.

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Go for the lightest...

I can't see any possible point in 22mm for a loft.


NT

On 14/05/2016 19:40, wrote:
On Saturday, 14 May 2016 18:47:38 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/05/2016 22:05, polygonum wrote:

Having said that, I would tuck rockwool etc between the joists, then lay
PIR foam boards over the top, and place the flooring directly on top. No
need for legs then, and less lost height due to the better insulating
properties of the foam.

it would probably be fine, but does carry at least some risk of interstitial condensation. You shouldn't really put a foil barrier on the colder side of insulation, which it would be there.

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Go for the lightest...

I can't see any possible point in 22mm for a loft.

I might if the joists were on 600mm centres...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 14 May 2016 09:49:48 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Replace the boarding and that should be an improvement on 75mm of compressed
G/F.

Compressed girlfriend? What's going on over there!

Self-inflating though ;-)
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:06:12 +0100, polygonum wrote:

On 14/05/2016 15:35, David wrote:
One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

I don't think I could manage getting 8x4 sheets up there!

At a quick glance, the only wooden ladder at B&Q is a Werner. Is trhat
what you got - and are happy with?

http://www.diy.com/departments/werne.../808381_BQ.prd

Managed to find the (equivalent) of the one that I fitted. It has a 159kg
rating and is easy to lower and raise.
I removed a length of a joist and fitted a new piece as th gap was about
80mm to long. The span is only 2m and the joists are well supported there,
so I reckoned it'd be OK.
http://www.laddersandscaffoldtowers....t-Ladders.html
the 100x700 one.

I had to rig up a method of operating the ladder and hatch from in the loft,
as I couldn't lift, position and fasten the frame on my own with the ladder
in place. The springs are very strong so couldn't be replaced with the hatch
open.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 14 May 2016 11:40:57 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

Go for the lightest...

I can't see any possible point in 22mm for a loft.

I used 18mm on nominal 400mm centres. Tried a bit only about a foot wide
across a gap of about 450 - 500mm with gentle bouncing on it and it was OK,
so much wider pieces on 450 are OK - feel solid.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 15/05/2016 07:51, PeterC wrote:
Managed to find the (equivalent) of the one that I fitted. It has a 159kg
rating and is easy to lower and raise.
I removed a length of a joist and fitted a new piece as th gap was about
80mm to long. The span is only 2m and the joists are well supported there,
so I reckoned it'd be OK.
http://www.laddersandscaffoldtowers....t-Ladders.html
the 100x700 one.

I had to rig up a method of operating the ladder and hatch from in the loft,
as I couldn't lift, position and fasten the frame on my own with the ladder
in place. The springs are very strong so couldn't be replaced with the hatch
open.

Thank you, PeterC. That might be spot on.

--
Rod

In message , at 22:05:15 on Fri, 13
May 2016, polygonum remarked:

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder?

Get one with step-by-step instructions. No, seriously, that's what was
written on the ones which came with mine.
--
Roland Perry

On 13/05/2016 22:05, polygonum wrote:
Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

I like my wooden ladder. It feels more sturdy than an aluminium one and
a key point is it has wider, more pleasant treads.

I see nothing wrong with 8ft x 2ft t&g, unless you ever want to get to
upstairs wiring etc. I used 8" x 1" PAR after shopping around so trivial
to unscrew a board to get to a light fitting from above..

Either way, mark in pen where the cables are!

On Sat, 14 May 2016 17:06:12 +0100, polygonum wrote:

On 14/05/2016 15:35, David wrote:
One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

I don't think I could manage getting 8x4 sheets up there!

At a quick glance, the only wooden ladder at B&Q is a Werner. Is that
what you got - and are happy with?

http://www.diy.com/departments/werne...g-loft-ladder-
h280m/808381_BQ.prd

I can't see the ladder on the B&Q web site.

It is made by Abru, a two section wooden ladder with a maximum load of
150kg.

It has a number W025361 on the sticker, but Google isn't finding it.

I assume that it is from the Abru Werner range, possibly something like

http://www.loftcentre.co.uk/tsl-timber-sliding-ladder?
gclid=CLbsmsuj3MwCFesW0wodzqQHfg

which looks very similar (in fact, identical).

The landing floor to loft floor clearance wasn't quite enough to fit the
ladder, so I had to build a raised platform on which to install it.

Very pleased with it, having struggled with light weight aluminium ladders
in the past.

Cheers


Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

Wrote in message:
On Saturday, 14 May 2016 17:17:12 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
On 14 May 2016 14:35:36 GMT, David wrote:

On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make much
difference on the real world?

One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

Cheers

Dave R

+1 for the loft hatch. I got one wit an integral ladder (note: can't reall
insulate it as the ladder is close to the hatch) and that fitted, almost, 2
spacings.
Although 4' would go diagonally, I was on my own and couldn't lift and
manipulate 8x4. Used 2' water-resistant T&G chipboard from Wickes (a piece
left outside in rain suffered no ill effects).
I cut the tongue back to the first shoulder and took off some of the bottom
of the groove, so that there's still some engagement but boards can be
lifted.
No extra insulation, as I didn't want to lose headroom - at 6' 4" I need all
I can get.
I am tempted to add 30mm to the joists: support the ceiling with props to
give a bit of pre-load, glue and screw 30mm (true) to the nom. 75mm (3"
supposedly) joists to clear 100mm, then use 100mm Celotex (can't use 75mm as
the joists are about 72 - 73mm in places) all sealed a a vapour barrier.
Replace the boarding and that should be an improvement on 75mm of compressed
G/F.

Compressed girlfriend? What's going on over there!


NT


At a guess, missionary

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 14 May 2016 17:17:12 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
On 14 May 2016 14:35:36 GMT, David wrote:

On Fri, 13 May 2016 22:05:15 +0100, polygonum wrote:

Sometime in the next few months I expect to have to fit a loft ladder
and board out a loft in a new house. The space will be used only for
storage.

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder? I have
been
using a cheap aluminium one in our current property. Nothing special
but
adequate. Should I just get something similar? Are wooden ones quieter
or otherwise nicer? Any makes to go for, or to avoid?

Second question: One or other of the various legs for boarding out
seem
the obvious approach. There are several makes available. Which is
best?

Third question: Flooring chip in suitable form (narrow, T&G) is
readily
available. Some is 18mm bit 22mm is also available. Does 22mm make
much
difference on the real world?

One thing - we had the loft opening enlarged to be able to take 8 * 4
sheets without cutting down.

We also used a wooden loft ladder (from B&Q) because it was much more
substantial than the flimsy aluminium jobbies.

Cheers

Dave R

+1 for the loft hatch. I got one wit an integral ladder (note: can't
reall
insulate it as the ladder is close to the hatch) and that fitted, almost,
2
spacings.
Although 4' would go diagonally, I was on my own and couldn't lift and
manipulate 8x4. Used 2' water-resistant T&G chipboard from Wickes (a
piece
left outside in rain suffered no ill effects).
I cut the tongue back to the first shoulder and took off some of the
bottom
of the groove, so that there's still some engagement but boards can be
lifted.
No extra insulation, as I didn't want to lose headroom - at 6' 4" I need
all
I can get.
I am tempted to add 30mm to the joists: support the ceiling with props to
give a bit of pre-load, glue and screw 30mm (true) to the nom. 75mm (3"
supposedly) joists to clear 100mm, then use 100mm Celotex (can't use 75mm
as
the joists are about 72 - 73mm in places) all sealed a a vapour barrier.
Replace the boarding and that should be an improvement on 75mm of
compressed
G/F.

Compressed girlfriend? What's going on over there!

Beats trying to cut her up and flush the bits down the toilet.

On Sun, 15 May 2016 10:03:48 +0100, Roland Perry wrote:

In message , at 22:05:15 on Fri, 13
May 2016, polygonum remarked:

First question: What do I need to look for in a loft ladder?

Get one with step-by-step instructions. No, seriously, that's what was
written on the ones which came with mine.

Could they be sorted by ascending or descending?
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sun, 15 May 2016 13:43:01 +0100, Fredxxx wrote:

I see nothing wrong with 8ft x 2ft t&g, unless you ever want to get to
upstairs wiring etc. I used 8" x 1" PAR after shopping around so trivial
to unscrew a board to get to a light fitting from above..

Either way, mark in pen where the cables are!

I managed to get all but 2 cables above the boards. Yes, I have to be
careful not to tread on them, but it's a lot easier than trying to avoid
them when there are only bare joists.
The 2 cables are only to switches, so unlikely to be overloaded. I marked
their runs on the boards and also marked all fittings and what they are.
(Did the same, plus pipes, on the upstairs floorboards).
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway