The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for decking!!??

Fredxx wrote:

The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

Have you tried a real timber merchant rather than the sheds?

I priced up exactly the same in a nice softwood from Alsfords (forget which,
but it is very unbendy for its size) and the estimated cost is not
excessive.

I'm going to enquire how much to mill a half-lap (specifically 1/4x1/2x1/4"
stepped profile) type joint down both edges to I get the gap covering effect
of T+G but it is still liftable (unscrew one board, maybe loosen screws in
one adjacent board to take pressure off the overlap).

--
Tim Watts

On 08/11/2011 17:08, Fredxx wrote:
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for decking!!??

Buy chipboard & a circular saw?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 08/11/2011 17:08, Fredxx wrote:
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for decking!!??
Look at gravel boards - 6x1 IIRC. Used one to replace a damaged
floorboard in a 20s house

Malcolm

Tim Watts wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which
made access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than
decking which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

Have you tried a real timber merchant rather than the sheds?

I priced up exactly the same in a nice softwood from Alsfords (forget
which, but it is very unbendy for its size) and the estimated cost is
not excessive.

I'm going to enquire how much to mill a half-lap (specifically
1/4x1/2x1/4" stepped profile) type joint down both edges to I get the
gap covering effect of T+G but it is still liftable (unscrew one
board, maybe loosen screws in one adjacent board to take pressure off
the overlap).

To add to this post.

Just plane the bottom side of the groove off, push the tongue into the first
board and then drop the back over the tongue of the second - just leave the
screws out of the board that that the tongue in fitting into to give you a
bit of leeway. Always works for me.

Also. if things are a bit tight, and the floor is being covered with carpet
(or suchlike), simply cut the tongue off the board as well as the back,
bottom shoulder of the groove and drop the board into place and screw down.


Cash

What do you do with the lagging which must, if like mine be deeper than the
void.

Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the idea
of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

"Malcolm" wrote in message
...
On 08/11/2011 17:08, Fredxx wrote:
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??
Look at gravel boards - 6x1 IIRC. Used one to replace a damaged
floorboard in a 20s house

Malcolm
I do not like the idea of chipboard for boarding out the loft. This is
because when having a clear out of my shed I chucked some chipboard offcuts
onto a small bonfire and they burnt rapidly even though some were damp. Or
was this just rubbish chipboard?
Robbie

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 07:23:10 -0000, Roberts wrote:

"Malcolm" wrote in message
...
On 08/11/2011 17:08, Fredxx wrote:
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??
Look at gravel boards - 6x1 IIRC. Used one to replace a damaged
floorboard in a 20s house

Malcolm
I do not like the idea of chipboard for boarding out the loft. This is
because when having a clear out of my shed I chucked some chipboard offcuts
onto a small bonfire and they burnt rapidly even though some were damp. Or
was this just rubbish chipboard?
Robbie

I used CB from Wickes as it's (was? - needs checking) water-resistant
(remarkably so IME) then took off part of the T&G to make it liftable.
Apart from cables under the floor (best to avoid having those if possible)
the main fire-risk in a loft is from below. By the time a fire in a bedroom
is through to the loft you're either out or dead.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:19:14 -0000, Brian Gaff wrote:

What do you do with the lagging which must, if like mine be deeper than the
void.

Brian

Mine's only 75mm, but the board adds a bit and stops percolation.
I might tack 35mm on top and use 100mm Celotex; more would be better but I'm
already in negative headroom territory.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 08/11/2011 17:55, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 08/11/2011 17:08, Fredxx wrote:
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

Buy chipboard & a circular saw?



Would plain chipboard really be strong enough? I'm trying to avoid any
T&G variety.

On 08/11/2011 17:52, Tim Watts wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

Have you tried a real timber merchant rather than the sheds?

I priced up exactly the same in a nice softwood from Alsfords (forget which,
but it is very unbendy for its size) and the estimated cost is not
excessive.

I'm going to enquire how much to mill a half-lap (specifically 1/4x1/2x1/4"
stepped profile) type joint down both edges to I get the gap covering effect
of T+G but it is still liftable (unscrew one board, maybe loosen screws in
one adjacent board to take pressure off the overlap).


Most T&G flooring is thin and relies upon the neighbouring strip to
impart rigidity. Removing half the groove would make the strip more
flexible so I don't feel its very practical.

On 08/11/2011 21:19, Brian Gaff wrote:
What do you do with the lagging which must, if like mine be deeper than the
void.

Brian


Mine currently has very little, so not a problem!!

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 14:02:33 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

On 08/11/2011 17:55, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 08/11/2011 17:08, Fredxx wrote:
The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

Buy chipboard & a circular saw?



Would plain chipboard really be strong enough? I'm trying to avoid any
T&G variety.

Not sure, but the flooring stuff from Wickes had a very hard surface
(countersink didn't like it) and a piece about 18"x24" supported about 18"
apart deflected only a little under my weight (about 85kg).
I decided to try it before doing the loft in collapsible flooring!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

Fredxx wrote:

On 08/11/2011 17:52, Tim Watts wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

The conventional method is to use chipboard, however I don't like the
idea of losing access to the void without pulling up the whole floor.

In a victorian house the floorboards were 7" x 1" PAR timber which made
access a dream.

7" x 1" seems very expensive, and more expensive per sq.m than decking
which will also have been treated.

Are there affordable sources of 7" x 1" or should I just go for
decking!!??

Have you tried a real timber merchant rather than the sheds?

I priced up exactly the same in a nice softwood from Alsfords (forget
which, but it is very unbendy for its size) and the estimated cost is not
excessive.

I'm going to enquire how much to mill a half-lap (specifically
1/4x1/2x1/4" stepped profile) type joint down both edges to I get the gap
covering effect of T+G but it is still liftable (unscrew one board, maybe
loosen screws in one adjacent board to take pressure off the overlap).


Most T&G flooring is thin and relies upon the neighbouring strip to
impart rigidity. Removing half the groove would make the strip more
flexible so I don't feel its very practical.

No. That's why I'm aiming for 1" planks - so each one can take a high point
load (sofa leg etc).

But I'm very interested in stopping crap falling down the gap, whilst still
having a liftable plank and I think the half-lap step joint has promise.

Also, any given board will also share its load with neighbours on one side
so that will increase the rigidity a bit.

--
Tim Watts