A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.

--
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

On Fri, 6 May 2016 10:33:53 -0000 (UTC)
Tim+ wrote:

Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer
inspection shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the
writing is absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's
5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just
briefly overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth
just trying a new fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to
search for on eBay. "Glass fuse" doesn't bring up anything with
tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


I would go to the CPCFarnell site and keep filtering 'Fuses' until you
find what you need.

http://cpc.farnell.com/

--
Davey.

On Friday, May 6, 2016 at 11:33:13 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

It's just an ordinary glass fuse... Are you sure it can't be removed from the end caps. You could just solder a new one in. You will need to find the exact current rating (it's important to get it right) and work out if it is fast or slow blow.

Philip

On Friday, May 6, 2016 at 11:33:13 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Just did a quick search on ebay and Axial lead might be what you need to search for.

Philip

"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a
new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.

--
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

What does the writing on the wire-ended fuse actually say? I would guess 5
amps, but if there's a T at the end that would be Thermal delay.
--
Dave W

On 06/05/2016 11:50, wrote:
On Friday, May 6, 2016 at 11:33:13 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Just did a quick search on ebay and Axial lead might be what you need to search for.

Philip

Try going to manufacturers site ans see if they have a circuit to
download. If not send them an email

In article ,
Tim+ wrote:
Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

Fuses with tails are normally thermal fuses. Since you can't solder to
them.

--
*He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 06/05/16 11:29, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

fuse 12mm x 3mmm ?

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcpd.../1866115/false


--
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.

Broadback wrote:
On 06/05/2016 11:50, wrote:
On Friday, May 6, 2016 at 11:33:13 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Just did a quick search on ebay and Axial lead might be what you need to search for.

Philip

Try going to manufacturers site ans see if they have a circuit to
download. If not send them an email


No joy. Rang them up and eventually spoke to someone who could quote me a
price for the whole pcb but couldn't tell me the value of the fuse
(although he did have the circuit diagram).

I just need to know what kind of fuse it's likely to be and what sort of
value based on its quoted power of 500-700W.

FWIW, if I squint my eyes up and use my strongest magnifying glass the
marks on the other end look like "C", followed by 01 in a circle, followed
by "US", followed by an "S", a couple of odd lines making a sort of
wineglass shape, and then maybe a "1".

Reading the figures is complicated by the fuses having a two part cap at
each end, the larger outer cap slightly overlaps the inner one that has the
printing.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

On 06/05/16 13:41, Tim+ wrote:
Broadback wrote:
On 06/05/2016 11:50, wrote:
On Friday, May 6, 2016 at 11:33:13 AM UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Just did a quick search on ebay and Axial lead might be what you need to search for.

Philip

Try going to manufacturers site ans see if they have a circuit to
download. If not send them an email


No joy. Rang them up and eventually spoke to someone who could quote me a
price for the whole pcb but couldn't tell me the value of the fuse
(although he did have the circuit diagram).

I just need to know what kind of fuse it's likely to be and what sort of
value based on its quoted power of 500-700W.

that's 2-3A so likely its a 5A fuse.

If it has a 13A fused plug why not put a 5A fuse in THAT and simply
solder a bit of fusewire across the one that's blown. I used to do that
a lot in the past. Or even drill out te end caps of the blown fuse and
solder a new bit of fusewire in.




FWIW, if I squint my eyes up and use my strongest magnifying glass the
marks on the other end look like "C", followed by 01 in a circle, followed
by "US", followed by an "S", a couple of odd lines making a sort of
wineglass shape, and then maybe a "1".

Reading the figures is complicated by the fuses having a two part cap at
each end, the larger outer cap slightly overlaps the inner one that has the
printing.

Tim



--
€œBut what a weak barrier is truth when it stands in the way of an
hypothesis!€�

Mary Wollstonecraft

On 06/05/2016 11:29, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

https://www.amazon.co.uk/250V-Throug...dp/B008LTJB7U/

You really do need to get the rating right. Other posters have said what
to look for.

Do you have a decent magnifier? Or a camera with a good macro facility?

On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:09:28 UTC+1, Fredxxx wrote:
On 06/05/2016 11:29, Tim+ wrote:
A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

You really do need to get the rating right.

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current. See how long it takes to start getting too hot. Look up fuse curve for chosen fuse family and pick one that pops within the right time to save the motor.


NT

Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.

--
Chris Green
·

On 06/05/16 14:15, wrote:
One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'


--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

On Fri, 6 May 2016 10:29:41 -0000 (UTC), Tim+
wrote:

A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

The fuse has blown violently, it is very likley it will just blow
again if you just replace it.
Pound to a pinch-of-****, the bridge rectifier has gone short-circuit.
It's that black rectangle on the left.

--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.


Well simple physics had already given me an answer. Trouble is, it doesn't
seem to tally with what's on the fuse which could be 15, 5, 1.5 or even 7.5
amps depending on how you read it. The tops of all the numbers are
slightly obscured so what looks a bit like a sloping 1 might actually be a
7.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

Graham. wrote:
On Fri, 6 May 2016 10:29:41 -0000 (UTC), Tim+
wrote:

A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

The fuse has blown violently, it is very likley it will just blow
again if you just replace it.
Pound to a pinch-of-****, the bridge rectifier has gone short-circuit.
It's that black rectangle on the left.


Possibly but the fuse should be cheap to replace and worth a punt,
particularly as the machine was being asked to juice raw sweet potato at
the time. Not the softest and juiciest of vegetables.

Tim

--
Trolls AND TROLL FEEDERS all go in my kill file

On 06/05/2016 14:49, Graham. wrote:
On Fri, 6 May 2016 10:29:41 -0000 (UTC), Tim+
wrote:

A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1

It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1

As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

The fuse has blown violently, it is very likley it will just blow
again if you just replace it.
Pound to a pinch-of-****, the bridge rectifier has gone short-circuit.
It's that black rectangle on the left.

If that is all there is, it's a remarkably simple PCB.

On 06/05/16 14:53, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.


Well simple physics had already given me an answer. Trouble is, it doesn't
seem to tally with what's on the fuse which could be 15, 5, 1.5 or even 7.5
amps depending on how you read it. The tops of all the numbers are
slightly obscured so what looks a bit like a sloping 1 might actually be a
7.

Tim

1.5 isn't big enough for a 700 watt machine
5 is about right
15 wont blow till the 13A has blown already
7.5 is possible but I've never seen a 7.5A fuse. 6.3A maybe..

ergo its a 5A fuse. End of.


--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

On 06/05/16 15:31, Fredxxx wrote:
On 06/05/2016 14:49, Graham. wrote:
On Fri, 6 May 2016 10:29:41 -0000 (UTC), Tim+
wrote:

A friend's electric juicer stopped suddenly today and closer inspection
shows that a small internal fuse has blown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6x7ohvor0...2053.jpeg?dl=1


It's from this circuit board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnk2dl79rr...2015.jpeg?dl=1


As best as I can tell, it's rated at 250V and 15 amps but the writing is
absolutely minuscule so it's hard to be certain of it's 5 or 15 amps.

Looking at the stuff that was being juiced I suspect it was just briefly
overloaded (by a raw sweet potato) so I think it's worth just trying
a new
fuse, problem is, I don't know what terms to search for on eBay. "Glass
fuse" doesn't bring up anything with tails.

It's about 12mm long and 3mm in diameter.

What's the correct term for this kind of fuse?

Tim

The fuse has blown violently, it is very likley it will just blow
again if you just replace it.
Pound to a pinch-of-****, the bridge rectifier has gone short-circuit.
It's that black rectangle on the left.

If that is all there is, it's a remarkably simple PCB.

Mu New Henry vac has a PCB which is shorted out for 'full power'. I
guess its got a few components to drop te voltage...


--
€œBut what a weak barrier is truth when it stands in the way of an
hypothesis!€�

Mary Wollstonecraft

On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/05/16 14:15, tabbypurr wrote:

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

well of course. But what counts most is the temp the motor reaches.

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've sampled the resulting smoothies - yum! Making them in a run of the mill blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg. They should just eat them, but they don't. When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.


NT

On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:48:06 UTC+1, wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.

that's incorrect physics. It ignores both power factor and the physics of fuse behaviour.


NT

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/05/16 14:15, tabbypurr wrote:

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

well of course. But what counts most is the temp the motor reaches.

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've
sampled the resulting smoothies - yum! Making them in a run of the mill
blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg.

Easy to claim...

They should just eat them, but they don't.

Ditto.

When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

On 07/05/16 09:11, wrote:
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:48:06 UTC+1, wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.

that's incorrect physics. It ignores both power factor and the physics of fuse behaviour.


What about 'about' do you fail to understand?.
Simple physics says about 3A. The power factor will not be that large
because simple physics says that the power factor of a simple electric
motor can usually be disregarded in terms of total current draw because
the on load current must always be in phase to generate mechanical
power, and the off load current is small.

That leaves the one relevant unknown as the starting current. And a
minumum of around 3A working draw

Simple physics tells us that the product doesn't blow the 13A plug in
the socket.

So there would be little point in a 15A fuse.

Only ONE fuse rating suggested is 3A and 15A and that is 5A.

Simple physics.

NT



--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"

On 07/05/2016 09:11, wrote:
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:48:06 UTC+1, wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and 500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.

that's incorrect physics. It ignores both power factor and the physics of fuse behaviour.

Given the circuit posted that had what looked like a full wave
rectifier, the worst case scenario is the motor being a stalled,
wouldn't it look more like a resistor to the mains, ie unity power factor?

As speed increases I would expect bridge rectifier conduction to occur
closer to the peaks of the mains waveform. In that case rms current will
actually be less than the simple calculation from power input.

I'm intrigued what the resistance of the motor is.

On Saturday, 7 May 2016 10:52:07 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've
sampled the resulting smoothies - yum! Making them in a run of the mill
blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg.

Easy to claim...

They should just eat them, but they don't.

Ditto.

When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

thank you for confirming that it's one of the leading causes of death, in your own moronic always wrong style.


NT

On 07/05/16 11:37, Fredxxx wrote:
On 07/05/2016 09:11, wrote:
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:48:06 UTC+1, wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

Thinking about it, I think 1.5amp might be more likely.


Doh! Another follow up. The motor is rated at 220-240V and
500-700W. What
would be the most likely value for the resistor?

Maximum current drawn would seem to be of the order of 2.5amps but
maybe a
slow-blow fuse of 1.5 is enough? Dunno. Your advice appreciated.

Well simple physics gives about 3 amps. Divide watts by volts.

that's incorrect physics. It ignores both power factor and the physics
of fuse behaviour.

Given the circuit posted that had what looked like a full wave
rectifier, the worst case scenario is the motor being a stalled,
wouldn't it look more like a resistor to the mains, ie unity power factor?

As speed increases I would expect bridge rectifier conduction to occur
closer to the peaks of the mains waveform. In that case rms current will
actually be less than the simple calculation from power input.

I'm intrigued what the resistance of the motor is.

Well measure it.

For a crappy cheap as chips commercial motor stall current at 3 x onload
rated current is not far off.

On a really decent motor wound for efficiency, maybe 20 times.

Since this is almost certainly a nutri********, its gonna be cheap
crappy and commercial.


--
"When one man dies it's a tragedy. When thousands die it's statistics."

Josef Stalin

wrote in message
...
thank you for confirming that it's one of the leading causes of death, in
your own moronic always wrong style.

He only wants an audience and an argument. If you suggest that a triangle
has 3 sides, superdick will argue otherwise.

On 07/05/2016 09:09, wrote:
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/05/16 14:15, tabbypurr wrote:

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

well of course. But what counts most is the temp the motor reaches.

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've sampled the resulting
ing them in a run of the mill blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg. They should just eat them, but they don't.
When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

Hmm, all those poor eskimoes dying by the thousand for the lack of a
bit of rocket, or the occasional kiwi fruit.

NT

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

You don't believe people die early due to a poor diet?

Perhaps it just makes them go mad and post using lots of names, then.

--
*Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Broadback wrote:
snip
FWIW, if I squint my eyes up and use my strongest magnifying glass the
marks on the other end look like "C", followed by 01 in a circle, followed
by "US", followed by an "S", a couple of odd lines making a sort of
wineglass shape, and then maybe a "1".

Reading the figures is complicated by the fuses having a two part cap at
each end, the larger outer cap slightly overlaps the inner one that has
the
printing.

Are you sure the 01 in a circle isn't UL in a circle (Underwriters
Laboratory)? If so, the fuse rating is on the other end of the fuse.
--
Dave W

On 07/05/2016 10:51, Rod Speed wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/05/16 14:15, tabbypurr wrote:

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

well of course. But what counts most is the temp the motor reaches.

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've
sampled the resulting smoothies - yum! Making them in a run of the
mill blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg.

Easy to claim...

They should just eat them, but they don't.

Ditto.

When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

A number of studies show that people who avoid vegetables become
sociopaths, become wife-beaters and tend to abuse their peers.

Some gutless ****wit desperately cowering behind
desperately attempted to
bull**** its way out of its predicament and fooled
absolutely no one at all, as always.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

You don't believe people die early due to a poor diet?

That isnt the same thing as being a LIFE SAVER, ****wit.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where it belongs

My doctor is suggesting I'm drinking too much orange juice now something
about 151 ml, which has no meaning to muy imperial brain.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/05/16 14:15, tabbypurr wrote:

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

well of course. But what counts most is the temp the motor reaches.

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've
sampled the resulting smoothies - yum! Making them in a run of the mill
blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg. They should just eat
them, but they don't. When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver,
literally.


NT

Whatever happened to quick and slow blow fuses and those that looked like
they were full of talcum powder?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"Dave W" wrote in message
...
"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Broadback wrote:
snip
FWIW, if I squint my eyes up and use my strongest magnifying glass the
marks on the other end look like "C", followed by 01 in a circle,
followed
by "US", followed by an "S", a couple of odd lines making a sort of
wineglass shape, and then maybe a "1".

Reading the figures is complicated by the fuses having a two part cap at
each end, the larger outer cap slightly overlaps the inner one that has
the
printing.

Are you sure the 01 in a circle isn't UL in a circle (Underwriters
Laboratory)? If so, the fuse rating is on the other end of the fuse.
--
Dave W

"Fredxxx" wrote in message
...
On 07/05/2016 10:51, Rod Speed wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Friday, 6 May 2016 14:41:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/05/16 14:15, tabbypurr wrote:

One option: Run motor at full load & measure current.

Define 'full load'

well of course. But what counts most is the temp the motor reaches.

An electric motor like that might take 5A to start, would stall at
10-15A and run at a couple of hundred mA if that, off load.

I bet its one of those faddy nutri******** things. You know 'overpriced
crap sold to gullible consumers, to replace the need to chew'

Like Dysons they sure are pricey, but they do an excellent job. I've
sampled the resulting smoothies - yum! Making them in a run of the
mill blender is slow going.

Most people eat nowhere near enough fruit & veg.

Easy to claim...

They should just eat them, but they don't.

Ditto.

When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

reams of your desperate attempt at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead, flushed where they belong

I in fact eat rather more fruit than most people do, like daily.

On Saturday, 7 May 2016 18:40:10 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

When they don't, a nutri******** is a life saver, literally.

BULL****. **** all die from not eating enough fruit and veg.

You don't believe people die early due to a poor diet?

That isnt the same thing as being a LIFE SAVER

lol. Oh dear.