I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim

It's not 100% certain that the beads will be removable so you might have
to cut them out.
Then there is the issue of making matching beading. Doable if you have
the equipment. Changes of an exact match down the DIY sheds? = minimal

On 01/05/2016 09:32, Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim

The thickness of toughened glass may be somewhat greater than the panel
it is intended to replace. Bevelling might help.

Bets of luck getting century-old beading out in usable pieces.

--
Rod

In article ,
Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the
wood panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years
of gloopy paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

I wanted exactly this for the door to the kitchen. To allow more light to
that end of the hall.

To fit the correct thickness glass neatly and securely really needed
bevelled adges.

I found a new door already glazed for not much more than the cost of
having the toughened glass panels made.

--
*How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , Tim+
writes

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

What others have said, and also, if removing the paint, the bottom coat
will probably be that horrible green Victorian arsenic laced stuff,
which you may prefer not to disturb. Probably best to have the whole
door dip stripped first, rub down the raised grain with wire wool then
decide whether to proceed with panel removal. At least you will have a
better idea of construction with all the paint gone, and no worries
about possible nasties in the paint.
--
Graeme

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

I found a new door already glazed for not much more than the cost of
having the toughened glass panels made.

Good point, if you live somewhere with such things available. I
certainly wouldn't fit a modern lookalike door, but would fit a
Victorian replacement. Used to live in Colchester where there was a
place stuffed to the gunnels with Victorian doors, fire surrounds etc.
--
Graeme

In article ,
News wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

I found a new door already glazed for not much more than the cost of
having the toughened glass panels made.

Good point, if you live somewhere with such things available. I
certainly wouldn't fit a modern lookalike door, but would fit a
Victorian replacement. Used to live in Colchester where there was a
place stuffed to the gunnels with Victorian doors, fire surrounds etc.

It's a Victorian lookalike. In my case the original had already been badly
hacked around to fit glass (which looked terrible) and although I could
have rebuilt it the new one was better value. It's close enough in looks
to pass the first glance test.

--
*My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 01 May 2016 12:59:55 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

snip

It's a Victorian lookalike. In my case the original had already been badly
hacked around to fit glass (which looked terrible) and although I could
have rebuilt it the new one was better value. It's close enough in looks
to pass the first glance test.


I did one here a long time ago and it looked like this (pre painting):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5772409/Door.jpg

I can't remember how I did it but it might have involved a router?

Cheers, T i m

polygonum Wrote in message:
On 01/05/2016 09:32, Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim

The thickness of toughened glass may be somewhat greater than the panel
it is intended to replace. Bevelling might help.

4mm toughened glass is probably going to thinner than the panel it
replaces...

Bets of luck getting century-old beading out in usable pieces.

Paint strip. Wide bladed implements to spread force required to
get pins out?

How fancy are they anyway?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jim k wrote:
polygonum Wrote in message:
On 01/05/2016 09:32, Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim

The thickness of toughened glass may be somewhat greater than the panel
it is intended to replace. Bevelling might help.

4mm toughened glass is probably going to thinner than the panel it
replaces...

Bets of luck getting century-old beading out in usable pieces.

Paint strip. Wide bladed implements to spread force required to
get pins out?

How fancy are they anyway?


What, the mouldings? Not terribly. See photo link.

Tim

--
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile

Tim+ Wrote in message:
jim k wrote:
polygonum Wrote in message:
On 01/05/2016 09:32, Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim

The thickness of toughened glass may be somewhat greater than the panel
it is intended to replace. Bevelling might help.

4mm toughened glass is probably going to thinner than the panel it
replaces...

Bets of luck getting century-old beading out in usable pieces.

Paint strip. Wide bladed implements to spread force required to
get pins out?

How fancy are they anyway?


What, the mouldings? Not terribly. See photo link.

Tim

--

Ah OK.
As the wood panels are/were loose fit, I'd go carefully on the
secondary side easing, prying etc at the beads so that if you
change your mind your remedy/bodge is not glaring at you every
time.I'd hope to only remove one side, and remove the panel,
then reglaze probly with some foam glazing tape to take up any
undulations in the old beading and stop the glass
rattling.

When removing remember the beads should only be pinned into the
framework of the door, not the panels.

If the worst happens I'm pretty sure you could find some similar
mouldings to renew with - wickes had something suitable when I
did a door repair recently.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 5/1/2016 2:01 PM, jim wrote:
polygonum Wrote in message:
On 01/05/2016 09:32, Tim+ wrote:
I would like to glaze the top half of a couple of traditional doors like
this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyeii74pm6...2059.jpeg?dl=1

I'm guessing it's just a matter removing the beading and replacing the wood
panel with suitable toughened glass. I say "just" but a 100 years of gloopy
paint may need to be removed first.

Are there any particular gotchas or is this a bad idea?

Tim

The thickness of toughened glass may be somewhat greater than the panel
it is intended to replace. Bevelling might help.

4mm toughened glass is probably going to thinner than the panel it
replaces...


I faked a traditional-looking door, 6 mm MDF in the lower two panels and
6 mm non-toughened glass in the upper two. Using modern quadrant
moulding, it still looks pretty authentic in the original 18C oak frame
(very rustic!).

6 mm float glass is pretty strong.