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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here...
I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws, checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem. Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size. Thoughts? Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is too small, so the rain is being held in? Would taking a snidge off the bottom of the door solve it? |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps.
Richard |
#3
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On Monday, 21 December 2015 10:50:09 UTC, Adrian wrote:
Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here... I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws, checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem. Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size. Thoughts? In principle you can go up on width or length. If all else fails, grinding a head down to a smaller size or drilling the hinge recess can be used. Easier though is probably hammering some wood into the screwholes first, having applied PVA. Then refix another day. Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is too small, so the rain is being held in? I find that hard to believe Would taking a snidge off the bottom of the door solve it? sounds very unlikely. NT |
#4
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/15 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps. Richard THE solution to stripped wood threads - and I have used it time and time again in kitchen carcases - is to fill the old hole with car body filler, redrill (or poke a matchstick in when half set) and screw up again. Screwing up not to tight before completely set works well, then tighten up hard when set. -- the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with what it actually is. |
#5
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 02:59:39 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:
Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is too small, so the rain is being held in? I find that hard to believe As soon as the door is opened, the water runs out. |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 02:57:49 -0800, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes I did wonder about that - but will it not just pull out? but being an out building you may not be that fussy. It's a studio for SWMBO... |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/2015 10:50, Adrian wrote:
Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here... I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws, checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem. Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size. Thoughts? Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is too small, so the rain is being held in? Would taking a snidge off the bottom of the door solve it? Insert a wooden dowel and coat with Grab adhesive, let it set then redrill. I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any water? If not, fit one. If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door. That's what I did to our front door, now whenever it rains, it's rare to see any raindrops at all on the door. Little door canopy was about £80, but worth it. -- Bod --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#8
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 11:15:47 +0000, Bod wrote:
I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any water? If not, fit one. It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and this is the only one that's affected. If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door. It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately. |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/2015 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps. Richard The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that successfully for slightly larger repairs. |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 13:05:29 +0000, newshound
wrote: The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that successfully for slightly larger repairs. You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug... This set here https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/701865/zylindrische-und-konische-duebelschneider-satz-8-teilig does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm. This one https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/707472/fisch-zapfenschneider-satz-5-teilig does 70 mm, but costs a lot more... There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the exact purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly expensive. All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut from similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh. Thomas Prufer |
#11
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/15 13:43, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 13:05:29 +0000, newshound wrote: The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that successfully for slightly larger repairs. You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug... This set here https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/701865/zylindrische-und-konische-duebelschneider-satz-8-teilig does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm. This one https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/707472/fisch-zapfenschneider-satz-5-teilig does 70 mm, but costs a lot more... There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the exact purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly expensive. All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut from similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh. Thomas Prufer And all are more complicated than filling the worn hole with car body filler an starting the screw hole again Pleased don't post any more solutions from before 0 BC(BF)* *Before Car (Body Filler) -- the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with what it actually is. |
#12
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/2015 12:20, Adrian wrote:
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 11:15:47 +0000, Bod wrote: I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any water? If not, fit one. It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and this is the only one that's affected. If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door. It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately. Oh, ok. -- Bod |
#13
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/2015 14:26, Bod wrote:
On 21/12/2015 12:20, Adrian wrote: On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 11:15:47 +0000, Bod wrote: I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any water? If not, fit one. It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and this is the only one that's affected. If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door. It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately. Oh, ok. Added to that, why not fit a drip bar for the small cost, It won't do any harm. The rainwater might be travelling under the door if the door hasn't got a drip groove underneath the bottom. -- Bod |
#14
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/15 10:50, Adrian wrote:
snip Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size. Thoughts? A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???! - you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic, at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones. -- Kevin |
#15
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/15 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps. Richard +1 The dowel trick is easy and gives a result as good as the original wood IME. |
#16
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/15 16:35, Tim Watts wrote:
On 21/12/15 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote: Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps. Richard +1 The dowel trick is easy and gives a result as good as the original wood IME. The car body filler trick is easy and gives a result *better* than the original wood -- the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with what it actually is. |
#17
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/2015 16:07, Kevin wrote:
On 21/12/15 10:50, Adrian wrote: snip Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size. Thoughts? A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???! - you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic, at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones. is the right answer, well the first thing to try anyway, especially as it all sounds a bit wet out there. Standard red plug if you can hammer it in, or a yellow one if not. Whatever tightens the screws really |
#18
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
On 21/12/2015 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
On 21/12/2015 16:07, Kevin wrote: On 21/12/15 10:50, Adrian wrote: snip Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size. Thoughts? A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???! - you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic, at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones. is the right answer, well the first thing to try anyway, especially as it all sounds a bit wet out there. Standard red plug if you can hammer it in, or a yellow one if not. Whatever tightens the screws really If it needs a bit of padding out, an appropriate smear of polyurethane glue works well. Let it set before putting screw in! Have used this technique on lightweight concrete block, wood, kitchen cabinet melamine coated chipboard, ... -- Rod |
#19
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Woodscrew "stripped threads"
Hmm I think ES servers seem to have lost a whole lot of the messages from
yesterday, as all the threads start with Brian -- From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active Remember, if you don't like where I post or what I say, you don't have to read my posts! :-) "Thomas Prufer" wrote in message ... On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 13:05:29 +0000, newshound wrote: The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that successfully for slightly larger repairs. You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug... This set here https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/701865/zylindrische-und-konische-duebelschneider-satz-8-teilig does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm. This one https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/707472/fisch-zapfenschneider-satz-5-teilig does 70 mm, but costs a lot more... There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the exact purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly expensive. All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut from similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh. Thomas Prufer |
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