[Adrian]

Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here...

I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it
had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I
managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the
frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of
the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws,
checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem.

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have
"stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the
hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?

Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door
between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is
too small, so the rain is being held in? Would taking a snidge off the
bottom of the door solve it?

[Tricky Dicky[_4_]]

Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps.

Richard

[[email protected]]

On Monday, 21 December 2015 10:50:09 UTC, Adrian wrote:
Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here...

I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it
had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I
managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the
frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of
the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws,
checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem.

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have
"stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the
hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?

In principle you can go up on width or length. If all else fails, grinding a head down to a smaller size or drilling the hinge recess can be used. Easier though is probably hammering some wood into the screwholes first, having applied PVA. Then refix another day.

Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door
between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is
too small, so the rain is being held in?

I find that hard to believe

Would taking a snidge off the
bottom of the door solve it?

sounds very unlikely.


NT

[The Natural Philosopher[_2_]]

On 21/12/15 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps.

Richard


THE solution to stripped wood threads - and I have used it time and time
again in kitchen carcases - is to fill the old hole with car body
filler, redrill (or poke a matchstick in when half set) and screw up again.

Screwing up not to tight before completely set works well, then tighten
up hard when set.


--
the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

[Adrian]

On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 02:59:39 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:

Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door
between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap
is too small, so the rain is being held in?

I find that hard to believe

As soon as the door is opened, the water runs out.

[Adrian]

On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 02:57:49 -0800, Tricky Dicky wrote:

Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes

I did wonder about that - but will it not just pull out?

but being an out building you may not be that fussy.

It's a studio for SWMBO...

[Bod[_3_]]

On 21/12/2015 10:50, Adrian wrote:
Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here...

I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it
had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I
managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the
frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of
the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws,
checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem.

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have
"stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the
hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?

Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door
between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is
too small, so the rain is being held in? Would taking a snidge off the
bottom of the door solve it?

Insert a wooden dowel and coat with Grab adhesive, let it set then redrill.
I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any
water?
If not, fit one.
If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the
door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door.
That's what I did to our front door, now whenever it rains, it's rare to
see any raindrops at all on the door.
Little door canopy was about £80, but worth it.
--
Bod

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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[Adrian]

On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 11:15:47 +0000, Bod wrote:

I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any
water?
If not, fit one.

It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and
this is the only one that's affected.

If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the
door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door.

It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately.

[newshound]

On 21/12/2015 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps.

Richard

The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is
that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going
along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of
glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to
dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps
slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that
successfully for slightly larger repairs.

[Thomas Prufer]

On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 13:05:29 +0000, newshound
wrote:

The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is
that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going
along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of
glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to
dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps
slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that
successfully for slightly larger repairs.

You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug...

This set here
https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/701865/zylindrische-und-konische-duebelschneider-satz-8-teilig
does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm.

This one
https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/707472/fisch-zapfenschneider-satz-5-teilig
does 70 mm, but costs a lot more...

There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the exact
purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly expensive.

All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut from
similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh.


Thomas Prufer

[The Natural Philosopher[_2_]]

On 21/12/15 13:43, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 13:05:29 +0000, newshound
wrote:

The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is
that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going
along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of
glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to
dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps
slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that
successfully for slightly larger repairs.

You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug...

This set here
https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/701865/zylindrische-und-konische-duebelschneider-satz-8-teilig
does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm.

This one
https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/707472/fisch-zapfenschneider-satz-5-teilig
does 70 mm, but costs a lot more...

There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the exact
purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly expensive.

All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut from
similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh.


Thomas Prufer

And all are more complicated than filling the worn hole with car body
filler an starting the screw hole again

Pleased don't post any more solutions from before 0 BC(BF)*

*Before Car (Body Filler)

--
the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

[Bod[_3_]]

On 21/12/2015 12:20, Adrian wrote:
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 11:15:47 +0000, Bod wrote:

I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any
water?
If not, fit one.

It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and
this is the only one that's affected.

If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the
door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door.

It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately.

Oh, ok.

--
Bod

[Bod[_3_]]

On 21/12/2015 14:26, Bod wrote:
On 21/12/2015 12:20, Adrian wrote:
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 11:15:47 +0000, Bod wrote:

I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any
water?
If not, fit one.

It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and
this is the only one that's affected.

If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the
door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door.

It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately.

Oh, ok.

Added to that, why not fit a drip bar for the small cost, It won't do
any harm. The rainwater might be travelling under the door if the door
hasn't got a drip groove underneath the bottom.

--
Bod

[Kevin]

On 21/12/15 10:50, Adrian wrote:
snip

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have
"stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the
hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?


A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???!
- you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic,
at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones.

--
Kevin

[Tim Watts[_3_]]

On 21/12/15 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out
pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the
hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in
recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses
filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a
rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps.

Richard


+1

The dowel trick is easy and gives a result as good as the original wood IME.

[The Natural Philosopher[_2_]]

On 21/12/15 16:35, Tim Watts wrote:
On 21/12/15 10:57, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out
pilot holes and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the
hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in
recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses
filled, but being an out building you may not be that fussy. Try a
rain deflector on the bottom edge of the door a see if that helps.

Richard


+1

The dowel trick is easy and gives a result as good as the original wood
IME.

The car body filler trick is easy and gives a result *better* than the
original wood

--
the biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

[Stuart Noble]

On 21/12/2015 16:07, Kevin wrote:
On 21/12/15 10:50, Adrian wrote:
snip

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have
"stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the
hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?


A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???!
- you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic,
at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones.


is the right answer, well the first thing to try anyway, especially as
it all sounds a bit wet out there. Standard red plug if you can hammer
it in, or a yellow one if not. Whatever tightens the screws really

[polygonum]

On 21/12/2015 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
On 21/12/2015 16:07, Kevin wrote:
On 21/12/15 10:50, Adrian wrote:
snip

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have
"stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the
hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?


A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???!
- you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic,
at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones.


is the right answer, well the first thing to try anyway, especially as
it all sounds a bit wet out there. Standard red plug if you can hammer
it in, or a yellow one if not. Whatever tightens the screws really

If it needs a bit of padding out, an appropriate smear of polyurethane
glue works well. Let it set before putting screw in!

Have used this technique on lightweight concrete block, wood, kitchen
cabinet melamine coated chipboard, ...

--
Rod

[Brian-Gaff]

Hmm I think ES servers seem to have lost a whole lot of the messages from
yesterday, as all the threads start with
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015 13:05:29 +0000, newshound

wrote:

The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is
that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going
along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of
glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to
dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps
slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that
successfully for slightly larger repairs.

You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug...

This set here
https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/701865/zylindrische-und-konische-duebelschneider-satz-8-teilig
does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm.

This one
https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge/holz-metallbearbeitung/fraes-und-bohrwerkzeuge/rund-konusschneider/707472/fisch-zapfenschneider-satz-5-teilig
does 70 mm, but costs a lot more...

There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the
exact
purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly
expensive.

All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut
from
similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh.


Thomas Prufer