I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer making boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite holes, then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for it to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank off this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a lot of work,
which I don't want to do.
TIA,
Pete

I would go for a 1" BSP blanking plug and a backnut like so:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75541

and

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...Backnut/p74685

The major thread diameter of 1" BSP is around 33.25mm so you'll have to
make your hole bigger (and don't mess it up this time!) You'll need
some kind of washer on whichever side you put the blanking plug on (I'd
probably put it on the inside) - you can cut one to size from a silicone
baking sheet that will happily withstand the temperature.

Having just made the move from homebrewer to commercial brewer and built
the kit myself I've made a fair few mistakes myself along the way

On 07/09/2015 15:36, goodolpete wrote:
I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer making boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite holes, then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for it to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank off this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a lot of work,
which I don't want to do.
TIA,
Pete

Whatever plastic you use make sure it is Food Grade.

On 07/09/2015 16:28, Richard Conway wrote:
I would go for a 1" BSP blanking plug and a backnut like so:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75541

and

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...Backnut/p74685


The major thread diameter of 1" BSP is around 33.25mm so you'll have to
make your hole bigger (and don't mess it up this time!) You'll need
some kind of washer on whichever side you put the blanking plug on (I'd
probably put it on the inside) - you can cut one to size from a silicone
baking sheet that will happily withstand the temperature.

Having just made the move from homebrewer to commercial brewer and built
the kit myself I've made a fair few mistakes myself along the way

On 07/09/2015 15:36, goodolpete wrote:
I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer
making boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite
holes, then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me
with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for
it to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank
off this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a
lot of work,
which I don't want to do.
TIA,
Pete

On 07/09/2015 16:25, Huge wrote:
On 2015-09-07, goodolpete wrote:
I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer making boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite holes, then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for it to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank off this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a lot of work,
which I don't want to do.

It will almost certainly either melt or taint the contents. Throw it away &
buy a Baby Burco. I have 2 of these;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252031877516


There's plenty of folk have used these barrels for brewing although I
agree some element (no pun intended) of caution should be taken. For
example I'd be reluctant to use one in the house in case it did go
during a boil! A 50 litre stockpot can be sourced fairly cheaply on
eBay as can 3kw elements and q max cutters for making the required
holes. That'd be my recommendation.

On 07/09/2015 16:55, TomSawer wrote:
Whatever plastic you use make sure it is Food Grade.


Well one would assume mango chutney would come in a food grade barrel

On 07/09/2015 16:57, Richard Conway wrote:
On 07/09/2015 16:55, TomSawer wrote:
Whatever plastic you use make sure it is Food Grade.


Well one would assume mango chutney would come in a food grade barrel

Indeed. But he may have been referring to the plastic used for the repair.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 07/09/2015 16:57, Richard Conway wrote:
On 07/09/2015 16:55, TomSawer wrote:
Whatever plastic you use make sure it is Food Grade.


Well one would assume mango chutney would come in a food grade barrel

Quite so - but plastic fittings for other purposes may not be.

In message , TomSawer
writes
On 07/09/2015 16:57, Richard Conway wrote:
On 07/09/2015 16:55, TomSawer wrote:
Whatever plastic you use make sure it is Food Grade.


Well one would assume mango chutney would come in a food grade barrel

Quite so - but plastic fittings for other purposes may not be.

Couple of big stainless washers, 2 *food grade* sealing discs (old inner
tube?)

Stainless bolt through the middle.

--
Tim Lamb

I've never successfully managed to plug holes in plastic containers as the
flex and the glue often cracks and leaks.
I'd imagine heating it will only make this problem worse. You don't say
where the hole is, if its on a flat part then making the hole bigger and
inserting a fitting of some sort might work, but if its on the outside,
forget it.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Huge" wrote in message
...
On 2015-09-07, goodolpete wrote:
I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer making
boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite holes,
then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me
with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for it
to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank off
this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a lot
of work,
which I don't want to do.

It will almost certainly either melt or taint the contents. Throw it away
&
buy a Baby Burco. I have 2 of these;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252031877516


--
Today is Setting Orange, the 31st day of Bureaucracy in the YOLD 3181
I don't have an attitude problem.
If you have a problem with my attitude, that's your problem.

On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 4:28:37 PM UTC+1, Richard Conway wrote:
I would go for a 1" BSP blanking plug and a backnut like so:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75541

and

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...Backnut/p74685

The major thread diameter of 1" BSP is around 33.25mm so you'll have to
make your hole bigger (and don't mess it up this time!) You'll need
some kind of washer on whichever side you put the blanking plug on (I'd
probably put it on the inside) - you can cut one to size from a silicone
baking sheet that will happily withstand the temperature.

Having just made the move from homebrewer to commercial brewer and built
the kit myself I've made a fair few mistakes myself along the way

On 07/09/2015 15:36, goodolpete wrote:
I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer making boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite holes, then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for it to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank off this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a lot of work,
which I don't want to do.
TIA,
Pete


Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

In message ,
goodolpete writes
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 4:28:37 PM UTC+1, Richard Conway wrote:

Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

IME hole saws tend to make an overlarge hole in thin material.

Often because the pilot drill flutes are trying to support the hole saw
teeth rather than the drill shank.

Perhaps you could wedge (hammer in) a roughly shaped plug to suit your
bodged hole and use that as a hole saw support.

Somewhere in my accumulated tool store I have a kit for creating holes
in plastic water tanks. After drilling a pilot hole you fit from inside
a threaded disc which is larger than the intended hole and has a
circular groove to match. An external threaded spigot secures this to
the tank side. The cutters are similar to a hole saw but with many fewer
teeth and, guided by the spigot, rotated by hand to cut the hole.

--
Tim Lamb

On 11/09/2015 10:39, goodolpete wrote:


Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

Can you get at the inside of the barrel? If so, fix a piece of wood
across the hole, and use that to guide the pilot drill.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 11/09/2015 10:39, goodolpete wrote:
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 4:28:37 PM UTC+1, Richard Conway wrote:
I would go for a 1" BSP blanking plug and a backnut like so:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75541

and

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...Backnut/p74685

The major thread diameter of 1" BSP is around 33.25mm so you'll have to
make your hole bigger (and don't mess it up this time!) You'll need
some kind of washer on whichever side you put the blanking plug on (I'd
probably put it on the inside) - you can cut one to size from a silicone
baking sheet that will happily withstand the temperature.

Having just made the move from homebrewer to commercial brewer and built
the kit myself I've made a fair few mistakes myself along the way

On 07/09/2015 15:36, goodolpete wrote:
I bought a 50 litre blue mango chutney barrel off eBay as a beer making boiler.
I successfully installed two kettle elements through 30mm opposite holes, then
I went to drill a 20mm hole for the tap. This went wrong, leaving me with a
20mm x 30mm oval jagged hole. I need to blank this off well enough for it to
stand 90 min boiling without leaking. Any ideas please how to blank off this
hole in a 38cm diameter barrel made of roughly 3mm thick brittle plastic?
The other alternative is to buy another barrel and kettles ruining a lot of work,
which I don't want to do.
TIA,
Pete


Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

Use the holesaw on a piece of wood first - say 1/2" ply - then
hold/tape/clamp this large hole over the plastic to guide the hole saw
by its blade instead of its pilot drill.

Cheers
--
Syd

On 11/09/2015 11:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2015 02:39:17 -0700 (PDT), goodolpete
wrote:
Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

You might be better off with a chassis punch, aka knock-out punch.
Much easier to control than something whizzing around on the end of a
drill. Slow, steady pressure. All you need is an Allen key to tighten.
http://tinyurl.com/p7ucbdf

Use a carpet blade (the hooked one) in a stanley knife, easy to cut any
size hole over 20mm in a plastic tank.

Peter

On 11/09/2015 11:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
goodolpete writes
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 4:28:37 PM UTC+1, Richard Conway wrote:

Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

IME hole saws tend to make an overlarge hole in thin material.

Often because the pilot drill flutes are trying to support the hole saw
teeth rather than the drill shank.

Perhaps you could wedge (hammer in) a roughly shaped plug to suit your
bodged hole and use that as a hole saw support.

Somewhere in my accumulated tool store I have a kit for creating holes
in plastic water tanks. After drilling a pilot hole you fit from inside
a threaded disc which is larger than the intended hole and has a
circular groove to match. An external threaded spigot secures this to
the tank side. The cutters are similar to a hole saw but with many fewer
teeth and, guided by the spigot, rotated by hand to cut the hole.


+1. It's what I used many moons ago. A doddle to use and not expensive,
but what the hell was it called?

On 11/09/2015 13:39, stuart noble wrote:
On 11/09/2015 11:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
goodolpete writes
On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 4:28:37 PM UTC+1, Richard Conway wrote:

Thanks for all replies.
Richard.
Bought these components from ToolStation. I will buy a
"PTX Bi-Metal Holesaw (Dia) 35mm" from B and Q.
I already have the central drill for this, but obviously
there is no material for the central drill to go through,
so the 35mm bit will just hit the plastic full on.
Have you or anyone any suggestions on how to make this a
successful operation, as I can see the drill slipping about
and making an even bigger hole in the side of the barrel.

IME hole saws tend to make an overlarge hole in thin material.

Often because the pilot drill flutes are trying to support the hole saw
teeth rather than the drill shank.

Perhaps you could wedge (hammer in) a roughly shaped plug to suit your
bodged hole and use that as a hole saw support.

Somewhere in my accumulated tool store I have a kit for creating holes
in plastic water tanks. After drilling a pilot hole you fit from inside
a threaded disc which is larger than the intended hole and has a
circular groove to match. An external threaded spigot secures this to
the tank side. The cutters are similar to a hole saw but with many fewer
teeth and, guided by the spigot, rotated by hand to cut the hole.


+1. It's what I used many moons ago. A doddle to use and not expensive,
but what the hell was it called?

Sounds like a q max cutter more usually used for punching holes in metal:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Q-Max-Sheet-.../dp/B0055KJGW8