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Default fence post question

Hello,

I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden. In one corner my
neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only two blocks
high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high can you go
with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks? I assume they
are breeze blocks, these concrete blocks all look the same to me!

I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their
wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my
side. It's a paved area. Would I be best to dig a hole a couple of
feet deep and insert a fence post in the hole, or could I use these
brackets that you bolt to the floor?

I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be
bolting them to a paving slab. Would that be enough to hold the post
in place in a gale? Or are these designed for bolting into a large
block of concrete underneath?

Thanks,
Stephen.
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Default fence post question

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 08:31:08 +0100, lid wrote:

I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden.


From getting in or getting out?

In one corner my neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only
two blocks high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high
can you go with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks?


Not very for it to be stable without "one brick" square columns every
8' or so.

I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their
wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my
side.


Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want
achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the
tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual
benefit after all.

Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of
any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand
fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not
(or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to
look at a number of fences to determine the pattern.

I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be
bolting them to a paving slab. Would that be enough to hold the post
in place in a gale?


Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or
18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab.
What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1,
spaced rails, how high?

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Default fence post question

On 19/07/2015 10:06, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 08:31:08 +0100, lid wrote:

I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden.


From getting in or getting out?

In one corner my neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only
two blocks high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high
can you go with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks?


Not very for it to be stable without "one brick" square columns every
8' or so.

I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their
wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my
side.


Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want
achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the
tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual
benefit after all.


+1


Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of
any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand
fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not
(or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to
look at a number of fences to determine the pattern.

I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be
bolting them to a paving slab. Would that be enough to hold the post
in place in a gale?


Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or
18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab.
What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1,
spaced rails, how high?


+1

The problem with the "flanged" metposts is that two of the fixings will
be close to the edge of the paving slab. But provided the fence isn't
going to be too high (say 4 feet?) you might get away with bolting down
the two "good" holes, and putting a horizontal coachbolt through the
fence post into the upper row of blocks (with a suitable spacer). Only
recommended if you are used to doing such fixings (risk of cracking the
slab or the block).

Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the
area? Do you have something solid to fix to at the ends (like a garage,
say). The "proper" method if you can't come to agreement with the
neighbour would be to lift slabs where necessary (or make a cut-out),
use hammered-in metposts (as long as you are above soil and not
hardcore). If the latter, then excavate and concrete in either wooded
posts or (better) concrete ones.
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Default fence post question

On Sunday, 19 July 2015 08:31:01 UTC+1, wrote:
Hello,

I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden. In one corner my
neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only two blocks
high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high can you go
with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks?


depends on the footings

I assume they
are breeze blocks, these concrete blocks all look the same to me!


they aren't & are unlikely to be

I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their
wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my
side. It's a paved area. Would I be best to dig a hole a couple of
feet deep and insert a fence post in the hole,


yup

or could I use these
brackets that you bolt to the floor?

I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be
bolting them to a paving slab.


you would be

Would that be enough to hold the post
in place in a gale?


no chance

Or are these designed for bolting into a large
block of concrete underneath?


yup


NT
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Default fence post question

Hello,

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 10:06:49 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

From getting in or getting out?


From getting out.

Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want
achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the
tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual
benefit after all.


I did try but they didn't seem particularly interested; I could try
one more time though.

Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of
any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand
fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not
(or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to
look at a number of fences to determine the pattern.


Yes, I definitely own the other side, both neighbours agree on that.

Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or
18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab.
What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1,
spaced rails, how high?


Sorry about the ambiguity; the slabs are 24" by 18"

Thanks,
Stephen.


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Default fence post question

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 15:33:12 +0100, newshound
wrote:

The problem with the "flanged" metposts is that two of the fixings will
be close to the edge of the paving slab. But provided the fence isn't
going to be too high (say 4 feet?) you might get away with bolting down
the two "good" holes, and putting a horizontal coachbolt through the
fence post into the upper row of blocks (with a suitable spacer). Only
recommended if you are used to doing such fixings (risk of cracking the
slab or the block).


Thanks, I had not thought of that shortcoming of the design. The
children and dog are small, so I doubt the fence would be 4' high. 2'
or 3' would be more than enough.

Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the
area?


I haven't measured exactly but I would only need two fence panels, if
that.

Do you have something solid to fix to at the ends (like a garage,
say). The "proper" method if you can't come to agreement with the
neighbour would be to lift slabs where necessary (or make a cut-out),
use hammered-in metposts (as long as you are above soil and not
hardcore). If the latter, then excavate and concrete in either wooded
posts or (better) concrete ones.


Thanks, I was wondering about doing it the proper way and cementing in
posts.
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Default fence post question

Sorry, for some reason my replies never got through:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 10:06:49 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

From getting in or getting out?


From getting out.

Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want
achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the
tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual
benefit after all.


I did try but they didn't seem particularly interested; I could try
one more time though.

Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of
any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand
fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not
(or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to
look at a number of fences to determine the pattern.


Yes, I definitely own the other side, both neighbours agree on that.

Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or
18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab.
What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1,
spaced rails, how high?


Sorry about the ambiguity; the slabs are 24" by 18"

Thanks,
Stephen.
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Default fence post question

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 15:33:12 +0100, newshound
wrote:

The problem with the "flanged" metposts is that two of the fixings will
be close to the edge of the paving slab. But provided the fence isn't
going to be too high (say 4 feet?) you might get away with bolting down
the two "good" holes, and putting a horizontal coachbolt through the
fence post into the upper row of blocks (with a suitable spacer). Only
recommended if you are used to doing such fixings (risk of cracking the
slab or the block).


Thanks, I had not thought of that shortcoming of the design. The
children and dog are small, so I doubt the fence would be 4' high. 2'
or 3' would be more than enough.

Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the
area?


I haven't measured exactly but I would only need two fence panels, if
that.

Do you have something solid to fix to at the ends (like a garage,
say). The "proper" method if you can't come to agreement with the
neighbour would be to lift slabs where necessary (or make a cut-out),
use hammered-in metposts (as long as you are above soil and not
hardcore). If the latter, then excavate and concrete in either wooded
posts or (better) concrete ones.


Thanks, I was wondering about doing it the proper way and cementing in
posts.


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Default fence post question

On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means


The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called
half-brick?
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On Thu, 23 Jul 2015 10:04:24 +0100, lid wrote:

Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the
area?


My estimate was pretty good; it's 11 ft.
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On Thu, 23 Jul 2015 21:37:38 +0100, newshound wrote:

11 feet isn't particularly long, and 4 feet not very high. If the
neighbour can be persuaded to let you build it up, then a single pier in
the middle (keyed in above the current wall) would probably give
reasonable stability (although it would be better to have a pier at each
end too).


+1 three piers as well.

Would look nicer and if putting up your own fence you can't bolt the
posts to the neighbours wall (without permission).

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Default fence post question

On Thursday, 23 July 2015 10:34:25 UTC+1, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:


I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means


The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called
half-brick?


that doesn't tell us how thick it is


NT


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On Friday, 24 July 2015 12:16:00 UTC+1, Fredxxx wrote:
On 24/07/2015 07:25, nt wrote:
On Thursday, 23 July 2015 10:34:25 UTC+1, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:


I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means

The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called
half-brick?


that doesn't tell us how thick it is


I think we can assume either 4" or if very old 4.5".


I certainly don't.


NT
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