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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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fence post question
Hello,
I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden. In one corner my neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only two blocks high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high can you go with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks? I assume they are breeze blocks, these concrete blocks all look the same to me! I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my side. It's a paved area. Would I be best to dig a hole a couple of feet deep and insert a fence post in the hole, or could I use these brackets that you bolt to the floor? I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be bolting them to a paving slab. Would that be enough to hold the post in place in a gale? Or are these designed for bolting into a large block of concrete underneath? Thanks, Stephen. |
#2
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fence post question
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#3
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fence post question
On 19/07/2015 10:06, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 08:31:08 +0100, lid wrote: I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden. From getting in or getting out? In one corner my neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only two blocks high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high can you go with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks? Not very for it to be stable without "one brick" square columns every 8' or so. I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my side. Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual benefit after all. +1 Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not (or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to look at a number of fences to determine the pattern. I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be bolting them to a paving slab. Would that be enough to hold the post in place in a gale? Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or 18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab. What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1, spaced rails, how high? +1 The problem with the "flanged" metposts is that two of the fixings will be close to the edge of the paving slab. But provided the fence isn't going to be too high (say 4 feet?) you might get away with bolting down the two "good" holes, and putting a horizontal coachbolt through the fence post into the upper row of blocks (with a suitable spacer). Only recommended if you are used to doing such fixings (risk of cracking the slab or the block). Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the area? Do you have something solid to fix to at the ends (like a garage, say). The "proper" method if you can't come to agreement with the neighbour would be to lift slabs where necessary (or make a cut-out), use hammered-in metposts (as long as you are above soil and not hardcore). If the latter, then excavate and concrete in either wooded posts or (better) concrete ones. |
#4
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fence post question
On Sunday, 19 July 2015 08:31:01 UTC+1, wrote:
Hello, I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden. In one corner my neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only two blocks high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high can you go with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks? depends on the footings I assume they are breeze blocks, these concrete blocks all look the same to me! they aren't & are unlikely to be I don't think the neighbour would be too keen on my building up their wall, so I think I may put a small fence in front of the wall on my side. It's a paved area. Would I be best to dig a hole a couple of feet deep and insert a fence post in the hole, yup or could I use these brackets that you bolt to the floor? I don't actually know what is under the paving, so I could just be bolting them to a paving slab. you would be Would that be enough to hold the post in place in a gale? no chance Or are these designed for bolting into a large block of concrete underneath? yup NT |
#5
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fence post question
Hello,
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 10:06:49 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" wrote: From getting in or getting out? From getting out. Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual benefit after all. I did try but they didn't seem particularly interested; I could try one more time though. Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not (or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to look at a number of fences to determine the pattern. Yes, I definitely own the other side, both neighbours agree on that. Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or 18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab. What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1, spaced rails, how high? Sorry about the ambiguity; the slabs are 24" by 18" Thanks, Stephen. |
#6
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fence post question
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 15:33:12 +0100, newshound
wrote: The problem with the "flanged" metposts is that two of the fixings will be close to the edge of the paving slab. But provided the fence isn't going to be too high (say 4 feet?) you might get away with bolting down the two "good" holes, and putting a horizontal coachbolt through the fence post into the upper row of blocks (with a suitable spacer). Only recommended if you are used to doing such fixings (risk of cracking the slab or the block). Thanks, I had not thought of that shortcoming of the design. The children and dog are small, so I doubt the fence would be 4' high. 2' or 3' would be more than enough. Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the area? I haven't measured exactly but I would only need two fence panels, if that. Do you have something solid to fix to at the ends (like a garage, say). The "proper" method if you can't come to agreement with the neighbour would be to lift slabs where necessary (or make a cut-out), use hammered-in metposts (as long as you are above soil and not hardcore). If the latter, then excavate and concrete in either wooded posts or (better) concrete ones. Thanks, I was wondering about doing it the proper way and cementing in posts. |
#7
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fence post question
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#8
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fence post question
On Monday, 20 July 2015 23:28:05 UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 11:43:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote: I am trying to dog-proof and child-proof the garden. In one corner my neighbour has a small breeze block wall, which is only two blocks high. One option would be to make the wall taller; how high can you go with a single row (half brick?) wall of breeze blocks? depends on the footings No, single brick wall without "buttress" columns every so often will fall over if you sneeze hard at it. It just opens up the weakest joint and falls. I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means NT |
#9
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fence post question
Sorry, for some reason my replies never got through:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 10:06:49 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" wrote: From getting in or getting out? From getting out. Er, why don't you talk to your neighbour? Explain what you want achieve, they might want to change things but have never had the tuit. They may even contribute, cash or labour, it is for mutual benefit after all. I did try but they didn't seem particularly interested; I could try one more time though. Are you sure it's the neighbours wall? Which side are the posts of any fences between properties. It's normal for say the left hand fence/boundary to belong to one property and the righthand one not (or vice versa). Time may erode the regularity so you might need to look at a number of fences to determine the pattern. Yes, I definitely own the other side, both neighbours agree on that. Paving slab as in full size 2 x 3' x 2" thick paving slab or a 12" or 18" square. You might get away with a post bolted to a fullsize slab. What is the proposed fence? Panels, alternate side staggered 4 x 1, spaced rails, how high? Sorry about the ambiguity; the slabs are 24" by 18" Thanks, Stephen. |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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fence post question
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 15:33:12 +0100, newshound
wrote: The problem with the "flanged" metposts is that two of the fixings will be close to the edge of the paving slab. But provided the fence isn't going to be too high (say 4 feet?) you might get away with bolting down the two "good" holes, and putting a horizontal coachbolt through the fence post into the upper row of blocks (with a suitable spacer). Only recommended if you are used to doing such fixings (risk of cracking the slab or the block). Thanks, I had not thought of that shortcoming of the design. The children and dog are small, so I doubt the fence would be 4' high. 2' or 3' would be more than enough. Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the area? I haven't measured exactly but I would only need two fence panels, if that. Do you have something solid to fix to at the ends (like a garage, say). The "proper" method if you can't come to agreement with the neighbour would be to lift slabs where necessary (or make a cut-out), use hammered-in metposts (as long as you are above soil and not hardcore). If the latter, then excavate and concrete in either wooded posts or (better) concrete ones. Thanks, I was wondering about doing it the proper way and cementing in posts. |
#11
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fence post question
On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called half-brick? |
#12
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fence post question
On Thu, 23 Jul 2015 10:04:24 +0100, lid wrote:
Not really enough information. How long is the fence? How windy is the area? My estimate was pretty good; it's 11 ft. |
#14
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fence post question
On Thu, 23 Jul 2015 21:37:38 +0100, newshound wrote:
11 feet isn't particularly long, and 4 feet not very high. If the neighbour can be persuaded to let you build it up, then a single pier in the middle (keyed in above the current wall) would probably give reasonable stability (although it would be better to have a pier at each end too). +1 three piers as well. Would look nicer and if putting up your own fence you can't bolt the posts to the neighbours wall (without permission). -- Cheers Dave. |
#15
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fence post question
On Thursday, 23 July 2015 10:34:25 UTC+1, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote: I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called half-brick? that doesn't tell us how thick it is NT |
#16
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fence post question
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#17
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fence post question
In article ,
Fredxxx wrote: On 24/07/2015 07:25, wrote: On Thursday, 23 July 2015 10:34:25 UTC+1, wrote: On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote: I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called half-brick? that doesn't tell us how thick it is I think we can assume either 4" or if very old 4.5". In one village near here, which used to host a brickworks, many walls were built with the bricks on their sides - so 3" |
#18
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fence post question
On 24/07/2015 12:30, Charles Hope wrote:
In article , Fredxxx wrote: On 24/07/2015 07:25, wrote: On Thursday, 23 July 2015 10:34:25 UTC+1, wrote: On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote: I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called half-brick? that doesn't tell us how thick it is I think we can assume either 4" or if very old 4.5". In one village near here, which used to host a brickworks, many walls were built with the bricks on their sides - so 3" I have also come across blocks only 3" wide in an internal wall on a RSJ. The OP did mention "breeze blocks" so their smallest dimension would generally be 4". |
#19
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fence post question
On Friday, 24 July 2015 12:16:00 UTC+1, Fredxxx wrote:
On 24/07/2015 07:25, nt wrote: On Thursday, 23 July 2015 10:34:25 UTC+1, wrote: On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:12:51 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote: I guess we'd info from op as to what single block thick means The wall is a single row of blocks, which I think is called half-brick? that doesn't tell us how thick it is I think we can assume either 4" or if very old 4.5". I certainly don't. NT |
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