They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick

On Wednesday, 15 July 2015 16:13:46 UTC+1, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick

What you need is a file or bench grinder and make your own.

Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick



May be 1/4 BSF. 26tpi

"Capitol" wrote in message
news
Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick



May be 1/4 BSF. 26tpi

Thanks Capitol, that is possible.
Unfortunately I have little or no metal working skills.

On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try an M6 coach/carriage bolt cut to length and with the circular
dome sawn off. Cheap enough to try.

Cheers
--
Syd

On 15/07/2015 17:49, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try an M6 coach/carriage bolt cut to length and with the circular
dome sawn off. Cheap enough to try.

Also, if M6 fits, 0BA almost certainly would too - same pitch, slightly
different thread angle.

Cheers
--
Syd

On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Find a good fastenings supplier and take the bolt in to them.

Ideally, you want the sort of place that is full of anonymous brown
boxes and has somebody who knows exactly what is in every one of them,
especially if what you want is slightly odd or old. If you can't find
one of those locally, IME TR Fasteners, a national chain, have always
been a good second choice.


--
Colin Bignell

"Nick" wrote in message
...
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9" planer
thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11).

You should be able to tell whether they're M6 simply by trying a
known M6 bolt which are fairly common. The length can be
easily sorted with a hacksaw. Put a couple of nuts on
first, tightened against one another - then removing the nuts
should sort out any damage to the end of thread. Again any
mild steel slotted head can be shaped to fit with a file.

However if its not M6 then its back to the drawing board


michael adams

....

Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick


Search for square head set screws
eg

http://www.fullermetric.com/products...set_screw.aspx

In message , Nick
writes
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

I hurried out to look at mine: not recognising the item in your picture.

The locking screws are conventional cap heads and the cutting depth
adjustment is a slotted round head.

Mind, this is the Robland version so possibly later.

As suggested, take it to a fastener supplier. I would go to Alfast at
Luton here.


--
Tim Lamb

On 15/07/2015 17:49, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try an M6 coach/carriage bolt cut to length and with the circular
dome sawn off. Cheap enough to try.

The more I look at it, the more it looks like someone has taken a lathe
to a coach bolt to turn off the dome/button. Cheaper than getting
custom screws made.

Cheers
--
Syd

On 15/07/15 19:26, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Nick
writes
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.
snip
The locking screws are conventional cap heads and the cutting depth
adjustment is a slotted round head.


I'd check whether an M6 socket cap screw ("Allen screw") would fit into
the recess. These are 10mm head diameter, cf 10mm across the flats of
an M6 hex head. If not, and since I'd guess the application requires
the screw to thread through something and push (as against fit through
and clamp), a socket-head "grub screw" would do the job. Both would be
turned with a 5mm Allen key.

--
Kevin

On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick



The picture looks a bit like the bolts which hold greenhouses together -
where the square heads fit within an aluminium channel. The bolts
themselves are sometimes made of aluminium too, and may not be strong
enough for your application.

If they *would* do, and were more or less the right size, you could
easily file a bit off the heads if necessary.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

"Syd Rumpo" wrote in message
...
On 15/07/2015 17:49, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try an M6 coach/carriage bolt cut to length and with the circular
dome sawn off. Cheap enough to try.

The more I look at it, the more it looks like someone has taken a lathe to
a coach bolt to turn off the dome/button. Cheaper than getting custom
screws made.

Cheers
--
Syd

Thanks Syd,
have tried an M6 bolt and it's not too bad a fit. Little slack perhaps. I
can't find anything 0BA yet but will do so and give it a try.
Certainly some food for thought in your messages.
Thanks again,
Nick.

"Nightjar .me.uk" "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote in message
...
On 15/07/2015 16:13, Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Find a good fastenings supplier and take the bolt in to them.

Ideally, you want the sort of place that is full of anonymous brown boxes
and has somebody who knows exactly what is in every one of them,
especially if what you want is slightly odd or old. If you can't find one
of those locally, IME TR Fasteners, a national chain, have always been a
good second choice.

Thanks Colin,

fortunately I am blessed with such. Almost. Fastener company about 5 miles
away, been going for 30yrs+. After Don's wife passed away his two daughters
joined the firm. Nice girls and efficient. Unfortunately they have
prettified the place and everything is now done by computer. He knows
exactly what he wants but 'I can't find a bloody thing these days'. Summons
daughter 1 or 2.
He had a look at these and reckons M6 thread but also said that he hasn't
seen the like for 30 years or more. So I came away empty handed.
Never mind, I'll get there.
Thanks again,
Nick.

"michael adams" wrote in message
...

"Nick" wrote in message
...
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11).

You should be able to tell whether they're M6 simply by trying a
known M6 bolt which are fairly common. The length can be
easily sorted with a hacksaw. Put a couple of nuts on
first, tightened against one another - then removing the nuts
should sort out any damage to the end of thread. Again any
mild steel slotted head can be shaped to fit with a file.

However if its not M6 then its back to the drawing board


michael adams

Thanks Michael,
I have M6 screws and bolts. They do fit but are a little slack. I feel that
for this application the fasteners should a good and engineering fit. After
all, there are 6 sizeable pieces of sharp metal rotating at several thousand
RPM. A failure could be catastrophic and I'm the bloke at the working end
Thanks again,
Nick.

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...
Nick wrote:
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9"
planer thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted
up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11). Fairly heavy 7mm square head
with
dome. A hex head M6 would not fit in the cutter block.
I don't even know what these types of screw might be called.

Have posted a couple of pics on dropbox:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%26%20body.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rew%20head.jpg

Thanks,
Nick


Search for square head set screws
eg

http://www.fullermetric.com/products...set_screw.aspx

Willdo, that looks good.
Thank you Bob,
Nick.

I hurried out to look at mine: not recognising the item in your picture.

The locking screws are conventional cap heads and the cutting depth
adjustment is a slotted round head.

Mind, this is the Robland version so possibly later.

As suggested, take it to a fastener supplier. I would go to Alfast at
Luton here.

Thanks Tim,
Interesting. Mine is a Startrite SD310 and has 3 Strartrite plates rivetted
to it. Also 1 Robland sticker. I don't know the relationship between the two
but had presumed that Startrite were the manufacturer and Robland a
distributor.
240v 1ph 3hp with a 3 knife cutter block.
I think this was made in the 70's although I bought it in 1986.
Obviously the cutter block designs differ between our two machines.
Conventional cap heads could not work on this and there are not any cutting
depth adjustment screws.
Instead, the height of the knife relative to the cutter block is by 2
compression spring set into the cutter block. This makes setting the knives
very straightforward.

Thanks again,
Nick.

"Nick" wrote in message
...

"michael adams" wrote in message
...

"Nick" wrote in message
...
They hold the knife wedges in the cutter block of an old Startrite 12x9" planer
thicknesser. Probably 1970's vintage. Startrite long ago busted up.
Screws appear to be M6 x 12 (perhaps 11).

You should be able to tell whether they're M6 simply by trying a
known M6 bolt which are fairly common. The length can be
easily sorted with a hacksaw. Put a couple of nuts on
first, tightened against one another - then removing the nuts
should sort out any damage to the end of thread. Again any
mild steel slotted head can be shaped to fit with a file.

However if its not M6 then its back to the drawing board


michael adams

Thanks Michael,
I have M6 screws and bolts. They do fit but are a little slack. I feel that for this
application the fasteners should a good and engineering fit. After all, there are 6
sizeable pieces of sharp metal rotating at several thousand RPM. A failure could be
catastrophic and I'm the bloke at the working end
Thanks again,
Nick.

Looking at your photo the thread pitch looks fine for M6 course
pitch at 1 mm. If it's a bit slack, then maybe the play is in
the outer diameter of the screw which should be easy enough
to measure, by way of comparison with a calipers, digital or
otherwise. According to the ISO standard there's a
tolerance of almost 0.2 - 5.974 max 5.794 min for M6 screws.
Whereas Startrite may have been fairly narrow in the margin they'd
tolerate when buying in the screws, assuming they tapped
the holes themselves.
Although knowing the required diameter and being able to
find it may be two different things. In the end it may be
a case of buying screws from a number of sources in the hope
of finding one nearest the 5.97. Which isn't really negotiable.
Whereas the length and head shape can always be roughly
accommodated anyway, by way of a hacksaw and a file.


michael adams

....

Looking at your photo the thread pitch looks fine for M6 course
pitch at 1 mm. If it's a bit slack, then maybe the play is in
the outer diameter of the screw which should be easy enough
to measure, by way of comparison with a calipers, digital or
otherwise. According to the ISO standard there's a
tolerance of almost 0.2 - 5.974 max 5.794 min for M6 screws.
Whereas Startrite may have been fairly narrow in the margin they'd
tolerate when buying in the screws, assuming they tapped
the holes themselves.
Although knowing the required diameter and being able to
find it may be two different things. In the end it may be
a case of buying screws from a number of sources in the hope
of finding one nearest the 5.97. Which isn't really negotiable.
Whereas the length and head shape can always be roughly
accommodated anyway, by way of a hacksaw and a file.


michael adams

Thanks Michael,
these are measuring between 5.82 and 5.85 which may explain the slackness.
Next week I'll nip in to Don's again and bend his ear further.
Hacksawing & filing I can manage. I think hack is the operative word here.
I suppose I could make up a little jig and do the head profiling with a
bench grinder and/or belt sander.
NOT angle grinder.

Nick.

In message , Nick
writes
This is similar to my machine, 12", 2 cutter block etc. but my infeed is a
roller fully fitted with *O* rings.

My serial number is around 65000 although is was common practice to not
count from zero.

Thanks Tim,
I read that rebuild story a few days ago. Nice job and obviously a very
capable chap.
My machine has a similar ridged infeed roller which can, and does, leave
marks on timber.
The serial no. of mine is 14017, presumably a somewhat more aged machine
than yours.
Do you happen to know the dims of the V belt? This is still on the original
and no doubt it will fail at some stage. I don't have a parts list, which
likely wouldn't help anyway
Good and well built machines. I just hope that I am able to get this working
to my satisfaction again.
I've tracked down a chap called Lee who used to work for Startrite in Kent.
Supposedly he can supply parts for older Startrite machines. If of any
interest google for a.l.t. saws and spares. Unfortunately he is away at the
moment.

The only fault I have is that the feed in O rings are aged and regularly
drop off. Fortunately the remainder congregate where they are needed so
not yet a serious issue.

V belt suppliers usually have a measuring system to identify a belt if
you take yours as a sample. My drive is single phase if that makes any
difference. I can look for any legible identification next time I am in
the workshop but don't hold much hope.

Probably the same chap I got from Dom? some years back.


--
Tim Lamb

Search for square head set screws
eg

http://www.fullermetric.com/products...set_screw.aspx

Thanks again Bob,
a search for such has led me to NSSS (non standard socket screw) who have
some representation quite close to me.
Have emailed and will follow through.
http://www.nssocketscrews.com//html/...ead-set-screws

Nick.

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , Nick
writes
This is similar to my machine, 12", 2 cutter block etc. but my infeed is
a
roller fully fitted with *O* rings.

My serial number is around 65000 although is was common practice to not
count from zero.

Thanks Tim,
I read that rebuild story a few days ago. Nice job and obviously a very
capable chap.
My machine has a similar ridged infeed roller which can, and does, leave
marks on timber.
The serial no. of mine is 14017, presumably a somewhat more aged machine
than yours.
Do you happen to know the dims of the V belt? This is still on the
original
and no doubt it will fail at some stage. I don't have a parts list, which
likely wouldn't help anyway
Good and well built machines. I just hope that I am able to get this
working
to my satisfaction again.
I've tracked down a chap called Lee who used to work for Startrite in
Kent.
Supposedly he can supply parts for older Startrite machines. If of any
interest google for a.l.t. saws and spares. Unfortunately he is away at
the
moment.

The only fault I have is that the feed in O rings are aged and regularly
drop off. Fortunately the remainder congregate where they are needed so
not yet a serious issue.

V belt suppliers usually have a measuring system to identify a belt if you
take yours as a sample. My drive is single phase if that makes any
difference. I can look for any legible identification next time I am in
the workshop but don't hold much hope.

Probably the same chap I got from Dom? some years back.


Thanks again Tim,

I imagine that changing the O rings would be an ache. Though it might be
worth investigating before it going mammarily vertical.
When poss. I'll get to the drive side of mine and see if I can get any
identification off the belt. Easier done with a complete, rather than
busted, one.

Different firm I think:
http://www.altsawsandspares.co.uk/

Who is Dom?

All the best,
Nick.

On 17/07/15 00:30, Nick wrote:
snip


I have M6 screws and bolts. They do fit but are a little slack. I feel that
for this application the fasteners should a good and engineering fit. After
all, there are 6 sizeable pieces of sharp metal rotating at several thousand
RPM. A failure could be catastrophic and I'm the bloke at the working end

Try 1/4" BSF. 26tpi, so quite close to the 25.4 of the M6 you've tried,
and a gnat's bigger diameter.

--
Kevin

In message , Nick
writes
V belt suppliers usually have a measuring system to identify a belt if you
take yours as a sample. My drive is single phase if that makes any
difference. I can look for any legible identification next time I am in
the workshop but don't hold much hope.

Probably the same chap I got from Dom? some years back.


Thanks again Tim,

I imagine that changing the O rings would be an ache. Though it might be
worth investigating before it going mammarily vertical.
When poss. I'll get to the drive side of mine and see if I can get any
identification off the belt. Easier done with a complete, rather than
busted, one.

Right! Clearly visible OPTIBELT SUPER TX SPZ 1012 LW Made in Germany.

Bear in mind mine is the two cutter version and single phase.


Different firm I think:
http://www.altsawsandspares.co.uk/

Who is Dom?

Rebuilding a Chapel in North Norfolk. Not seen here for a while.

--
Tim Lamb

On 19/07/2015 08:49, Kevin wrote:
On 17/07/15 00:30, Nick wrote:
snip


I have M6 screws and bolts. They do fit but are a little slack. I feel
that
for this application the fasteners should a good and engineering fit.
After
all, there are 6 sizeable pieces of sharp metal rotating at several
thousand
RPM. A failure could be catastrophic and I'm the bloke at the working
end

Try 1/4" BSF. 26tpi, so quite close to the 25.4 of the M6 you've tried,
and a gnat's bigger diameter.

6.35mm is a lot more that a gnat's genitals than 6mm.

I would say the M6 bolt would have to be incredibly sloppy to accept a
1/4" BSF screw.

Knowing the precise diameter of the screw in those pictures would be a
great help.

Right! Clearly visible OPTIBELT SUPER TX SPZ 1012 LW Made in Germany.

Bear in mind mine is the two cutter version and single phase.

Very kind of you to take the time and trouble, many thanks Tim.
Mine is also single phase. I can't imagine that it would use a different
driver belt. However will pull it out and check before purchasing.
Thanks again,
Nick.