New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

Jim K

JimK wrote:
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

Jim K

Counterbore the underside of the worktop?

On 02/05/15 20:55, JimK wrote:
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

counterbore

Tia

Jim K



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 02/05/2015 20:55, JimK wrote:
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

I presume the taps are designed for a think sink rather than a 40mm
thick worktop?

As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. You might
want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole,
or is it now too late? :-(

/As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. *You might
want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole,
or is it now too late? :-( /q

Got it in one Fred..... these are replacements, the worktops are well and truly fitted and any sort of counterbore is not going to be simple wrt access and the adjacent Belfast sink...

I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the extender?? Grrr

Any other ideas?

Tia

Jim K

/I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the extender?? Grrr /q

Slightly more awake....

The thing with extenders that's got me stumped is if there's only a few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop, how do you get a good seal ? I'd expect that ideally they should be done up tight and seal on the flat faces of the tap tails, but without frigging about with the worktop that's not going to be possible... what are my chances of getting a seal just on the few threads showing? And with what? Ptfe?

Cheers
Jim K

If I recall, many makers of taps had what they called a 'long series' which
were, um longer.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"JimK" wrote in message
...
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

Jim K

On 03/05/15 07:42, JimK wrote:
/I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts
to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now
taken by the extender?? Grrr /q

Slightly more awake....

The thing with extenders that's got me stumped is if there's only a
few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop, how do you get a good
seal ? I'd expect that ideally they should be done up tight and seal
on the flat faces of the tap tails, but without frigging about with
the worktop that's not going to be possible... what are my chances of
getting a seal just on the few threads showing? And with what? Ptfe?


car body filler

Cheers Jim K



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 03/05/2015 06:35, JimK wrote:
/As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. You might
want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole,
or is it now too late? :-( /q

Got it in one Fred..... these are replacements, the worktops are well and truly fitted and any sort of counterbore is not going to be simple wrt access and the adjacent Belfast sink...

I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the extender?? Grrr

Any other ideas?


Well, er yes this?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price!

/car body filler/q

R I g h t . . .

Jim K

/Well, er yes this?

*
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price! /q


Hehe!!

I've seen radiator tail extenders in various lengths (for a lot less:-) that use the same approach and I could hopefully find some big fo washers to put between the extenders and the underside of the worktop to do the job of the backnuts BUT will I get a seal between te extenders and the few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop?

Jim K

On 03/05/2015 14:13, JimK wrote:
/Well, er yes this?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price! /q


Hehe!!

I've seen radiator tail extenders in various lengths (for a lot less:-) that use the same approach and I could hopefully find some big fo washers to put between the extenders and the underside of the worktop to do the job of the backnuts BUT will I get a seal between te extenders and the few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop?


I had the same thought regarding backnuts and washers. Depending on the
quality of the surfaces, could you not use a fibre washer to seal?

Otherwise araldite? I'm assuming you'll never want to get them apart
again! You could file the flats off afterwards to reduce required hole
size in worktop?

As Brian suggested, could you not exchange the taps for ones of the
right length of shank?

/I had the same thought regarding backnuts and washers. Depending on the
quality of the surfaces, could you not use a fibre washer to seal?

Otherwise araldite? I'm assuming you'll never want to get them apart
again! You could file the flats off afterwards to reduce required hole
size in worktop?

As Brian suggested, could you not exchange the taps for ones of the
right length of shank?/q

The radiator extenders don't even have flats... but I think a different tap is the best avenue, shame it took long enough to find this one! The only way I can see extenders working will leave me either trying to bodge the securing of the taps to the worktop, or bodging the seal of the extenders onto the taps' tails, both will most likely entail frigging abt whittling wood off under worktops or trying to redrill/resize the existing holes..... how would I even do that?

**** it new tap!

Cheers

Jim K

In article , Fredxxx
scribeth thus
On 03/05/2015 14:13, JimK wrote:
/Well, er yes this?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price! /q

'fkin hell, has our old mate Russ Andrews gone into plumbing now;?...



Hehe!!

I've seen radiator tail extenders in various lengths (for a lot less:-) that
use the same approach and I could hopefully find some big fo washers to put
between the extenders and the underside of the worktop to do the job of the
backnuts BUT will I get a seal between te extenders and the few mm of tap tail
showing under the worktop?


I had the same thought regarding backnuts and washers. Depending on the
quality of the surfaces, could you not use a fibre washer to seal?

Otherwise araldite? I'm assuming you'll never want to get them apart
again! You could file the flats off afterwards to reduce required hole
size in worktop?

As Brian suggested, could you not exchange the taps for ones of the
right length of shank?

--
Tony Sayer

If you have a router it is possible to produce a counterbore underneath using the router from above. Use a two flute cutter where the cutting edges are wider than the the tools shaft. Adjust the cutter so that the top of the fluting is at the distance from the router base is the depth of the counter bore. This might mean you will have to hold the tool in the collet protruding more than the ideal. Using the tool shaft like a guide bush will enable you to move the tool around the existing hole to produce a counterbore. Care would need to be taken not to exert too much pressure whilst cutting as this method relies on having the cutter protruding probably beyond the ideal.

Richard

/If you have a router it is possible to produce a counterbore underneath using the router from above. Use a two flute cutter where the cutting edges are wider than the the tools shaft. Adjust the cutter so that the top of the fluting is at the distance from the router base is the depth of the counter bore. This might mean you will have to hold the tool in the collet protruding more than the ideal. Using the tool shaft like a guide bush will enable you to move the tool around the existing hole to produce a counterbore. Care would need to be taken not to exert too much pressure whilst cutting as this method relies on having the cutter protruding probably beyond the ideal. /q

Well yeah I follow you but the distances are too big for anything I've ever seen router bit wise - 45mm thick worktop...
Thought abt a forstner bit but I reckon I'd probably end up with a non-flat face on the inner counterbore against which I'd be trying to secure backnuts...

Also any counter bore would have to be big enough to allow a spanner (box I spose, that I don't have) to access the backnuts...

Cheers
Jim K

"JimK" wrote in message
...
/If you have a router it is possible to produce a counterbore underneath
using the router from above. Use a two flute cutter where the cutting
edges are wider than the the tools shaft. Adjust the cutter so that the
top of the fluting is at the distance from the router base is the depth of
the counter bore. This might mean you will have to hold the tool in the
collet protruding more than the ideal. Using the tool shaft like a guide
bush will enable you to move the tool around the existing hole to produce
a counterbore. Care would need to be taken not to exert too much pressure
whilst cutting as this method relies on having the cutter protruding
probably beyond the ideal. /q

Well yeah I follow you but the distances are too big for anything I've
ever seen router bit wise - 45mm thick worktop...
Thought abt a forstner bit but I reckon I'd probably end up with a
non-flat face on the inner counterbore against which I'd be trying to
secure backnuts...

Doesn't really matter much when just securing the tap to the worktop.

Also any counter bore would have to be big enough to allow
a spanner (box I spose, that I don't have) to access the backnuts...

Doesn't cost much for one of the appropriate size.

Swapping the taps for ones with much longer threaded bits would be simpler
tho.

/Doesn't really matter much when just securing the tap to the worktop.

Also any counter bore would have to be big enough to allow
a spanner (box I spose, that I don't have) to access the backnuts...

Doesn't cost much for one of the appropriate size.

Swapping the taps for ones with much longer threaded bits would be simpler/q

Inspirational as always Rod

Jim K

The only other alternative I can see without changing existing taps or paying for expensive extensions, is to plug your existing holes and start from scratch drilling the counterbore first then re-drilling the plug out. Before inserting the plug I would drill a small pilot hole down the centre, this will assist in keeping your flat/Forstner bits on centre. I should imagine you only need to counterbore about 20mm deep to accommodate most back nuts and tap connectors I have experienced.

Richard

/The only other alternative I can see without changing existing taps or paying for expensive extensions, is to plug your existing holes and start from scratch drilling the counterbore first then re-drilling the plug out./q

Yeah I reckon so. But icba with all that upside down under a kitchen sink, I'd have to totally unplumb the whole lot just to get in with a drill, then get a face full of sawdust.... nah!

Extensions aren't all expensive, but in this case aren't the answer.

Jim K

On 05/05/15 12:29, JimK wrote:
/The only other alternative I can see without changing existing taps or paying for expensive extensions, is to plug your existing holes and start from scratch drilling the counterbore first then re-drilling the plug out./q

Yeah I reckon so. But icba with all that upside down under a kitchen sink, I'd have to totally unplumb the whole lot just to get in with a drill, then get a face full of sawdust.... nah!

Extensions aren't all expensive, but in this case aren't the answer.

Jim K


you may de able to counterbore from the top by constructing some sort of
too that you push up from underneath and then attach to the drill

I have to say that when I did this job and ran into this problem, I
hacked enough space to get the connectors on and simply glued the taps
in with car body filler.


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

/you may de able to counterbore from the top by constructing some sort of
too that you push up from underneath and then attach to the drill /q

Mmm like a Thunderbirds style reverse cutting drill bit thing ? Gorra link!?

Jim K

JimK wrote in
:

/you may de able to counterbore from the top by constructing some sort
of too that you push up from underneath and then attach to the drill
/q

Mmm like a Thunderbirds style reverse cutting drill bit thing ? Gorra
link!?

Jim K


Think about the state of it in years to come when damp has had its effects.
A counterbore will be very vulnerable to damp.

/Think about the state of it in years to come when damp has had its effects.
A counterbore will be very vulnerable to damp/q

Eh??

If it got wet ever, won't it just drain by gravity being on the underside.....??

Jim K

JimK wrote in
:

/Think about the state of it in years to come when damp has had its
effects. A counterbore will be very vulnerable to damp/q

Eh??

If it got wet ever, won't it just drain by gravity being on the
underside.....??

Jim K


Think about why window sills have a overhang or a groove underneath. It is
to stop water tracking on the underside. The cold tap connector will be
prone to condensation as well.

All cutouts in kitchen work tops should be sealed with silicone as a matter of course especially if there is the possibility of water ingress.

Richard

/Think about why window sills have a overhang or a groove underneath. It is
to stop water tracking on the underside. The cold tap connector will be
prone to condensation as well. /q

I'm thinking about all the taps I've ever seen that don't have anything like you're on about.

Any condensation will run down along the tap connector/pipes?? Like every cold tap connector!?

Jim K

/All cutouts in kitchen work tops should be sealed with silicone as a matter of course especially if there is the possibility of water ingress. /q

Chipboard maybe, solid woods & stone? Nah not really

Jim K

"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.236...
JimK wrote in
:

/you may de able to counterbore from the top by constructing some sort
of too that you push up from underneath and then attach to the drill
/q

Mmm like a Thunderbirds style reverse cutting drill bit thing ? Gorra
link!?

Jim K


Think about the state of it in years to come when damp has had its
effects.
A counterbore will be very vulnerable to damp.

It's no more vulnerable to damp than using taps with a longer threaded part
and easy enough to estapol the counterbore if you are worried about that.

"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.236...
JimK wrote in
:

/Think about the state of it in years to come when damp has had its
effects. A counterbore will be very vulnerable to damp/q

Eh??

If it got wet ever, won't it just drain by gravity being on the
underside.....??

Jim K


Think about why window sills have a overhang or a groove underneath.

That's for rain. You don’t get anything like that under worktops.

It is
to stop water tracking on the underside.

And you don’t have that with a worktop, for a reason.

The cold tap connector will be
prone to condensation as well.

No more so than a tap with a longer threaded part is.

And trivial to estapol the counterbore if you are worried.