New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

Jim K

JimK wrote:
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

Jim K

Counterbore the underside of the worktop?

On 02/05/15 20:55, JimK wrote:
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

counterbore

Tia

Jim K



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 02/05/2015 20:55, JimK wrote:
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

I presume the taps are designed for a think sink rather than a 40mm
thick worktop?

As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. You might
want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole,
or is it now too late? :-(

/As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. *You might
want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole,
or is it now too late? :-( /q

Got it in one Fred..... these are replacements, the worktops are well and truly fitted and any sort of counterbore is not going to be simple wrt access and the adjacent Belfast sink...

I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the extender?? Grrr

Any other ideas?

Tia

Jim K

/I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the extender?? Grrr /q

Slightly more awake....

The thing with extenders that's got me stumped is if there's only a few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop, how do you get a good seal ? I'd expect that ideally they should be done up tight and seal on the flat faces of the tap tails, but without frigging about with the worktop that's not going to be possible... what are my chances of getting a seal just on the few threads showing? And with what? Ptfe?

Cheers
Jim K

On 03/05/15 07:42, JimK wrote:
/I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts
to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now
taken by the extender?? Grrr /q

Slightly more awake....

The thing with extenders that's got me stumped is if there's only a
few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop, how do you get a good
seal ? I'd expect that ideally they should be done up tight and seal
on the flat faces of the tap tails, but without frigging about with
the worktop that's not going to be possible... what are my chances of
getting a seal just on the few threads showing? And with what? Ptfe?


car body filler

Cheers Jim K



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

/car body filler/q

R I g h t . . .

Jim K

On 03/05/2015 06:35, JimK wrote:
/As others have said, some form of counterboring should be OK. You might
want to do the counterboring first before drilling the rest of the hole,
or is it now too late? :-( /q

Got it in one Fred..... these are replacements, the worktops are well and truly fitted and any sort of counterbore is not going to be simple wrt access and the adjacent Belfast sink...

I've seen extenders, but how does one get the tap securing back nuts to do their job when the same bit of thread they would use is now taken by the extender?? Grrr

Any other ideas?


Well, er yes this?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price!

/Well, er yes this?

*
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price! /q


Hehe!!

I've seen radiator tail extenders in various lengths (for a lot less:-) that use the same approach and I could hopefully find some big fo washers to put between the extenders and the underside of the worktop to do the job of the backnuts BUT will I get a seal between te extenders and the few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop?

Jim K

On 03/05/2015 14:13, JimK wrote:
/Well, er yes this?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-Bra.../dp/B006K7OGZW

Ideal until you faint at the price! /q


Hehe!!

I've seen radiator tail extenders in various lengths (for a lot less:-) that use the same approach and I could hopefully find some big fo washers to put between the extenders and the underside of the worktop to do the job of the backnuts BUT will I get a seal between te extenders and the few mm of tap tail showing under the worktop?


I had the same thought regarding backnuts and washers. Depending on the
quality of the surfaces, could you not use a fibre washer to seal?

Otherwise araldite? I'm assuming you'll never want to get them apart
again! You could file the flats off afterwards to reduce required hole
size in worktop?

As Brian suggested, could you not exchange the taps for ones of the
right length of shank?

If I recall, many makers of taps had what they called a 'long series' which
were, um longer.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"JimK" wrote in message
...
New tap through a thick wooden worktop.

Shanks (threaded) only poke thru underneath worktop by a few mm......
Not enough to secure w backnuts AND fit tap connector flexis....

What's the remedy?

Tia

Jim K