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Default Help! Cutting steel.

Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.



Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.

Mike
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On Thursday, April 9, 2015 at 11:40:23 AM UTC+1, GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.




A door made of inch-thick steel! Is this a strong-room door or something?

Robert
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

Muddymike wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into
the steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so
I thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an
inch thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body
of the lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.



Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.

Mike


Try a grit jigsaw blade.
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

Muddymike wrote:

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an
inch thick.


Do you mean an inch thick, or an inch wide? Inch thick sounds like
something they'd have at Fort Knox.


Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.


If it's fiddly how about a Dremel?

Bill


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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On Thursday, April 9, 2015 at 11:40:23 AM UTC+1, GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.


If you can drill it, drill lots of holes and join them up with a hacksaw ?
Simon.
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On Thu, 09 Apr 2015 11:40:19 +0100, GB wrote:

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.


1" thick? Really? Solid 1" thick or square section tube? 1" solid
will give any saw type cutter something to think about. Buy several
good quality HSS jagsaw blabdes, run the saw slow and lubricate well
with light oil. Let the saw do the work, only gently pressure to keep
the blade in contact with the work. It'll take ages...

If tube you ideally need a blade with a tooth pitch that has at least
3 teeth across the thickness of the tube wall.

Angle grinder unless it has a very small disc will barely have cut
through by the time the upper cut is 7 cm long. Not to mention the
heat.

Holes in a row just clear of each other is one way but how you stop
the drill wandering in that thickness I'm not sure. I think you'd
need some form of "pillar drill" arrangement to keep the drill steady
and true. Again sharp drill (new ones *aren't* sharp), slowish speed,
lubrication.

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On 09/04/2015 13:10, Bill Wright wrote:
Muddymike wrote:

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an
inch thick.


Do you mean an inch thick, or an inch wide? Inch thick sounds like
something they'd have at Fort Knox.


The frame round the outside is indeed an inch thick.



Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.


It's hard to get any accuracy with that, but yes it's plan B.


If it's fiddly how about a Dremel?


I have a Dremel, and I tried the thin cutting discs, which last about
ten seconds!




Bill


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Default Help! Cutting steel.

Sounds like a cold chisel and big hammer job! Is there any reason why you cannot chain drill right through the inch thick frame then all you would need to do is remove enough of the metal between the holes with a chisel to get a file in then it's plenty of elbow grease.

Richard
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On 09/04/2015 13:10, Bill Wright wrote:
Muddymike wrote:

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an
inch thick.


Do you mean an inch thick, or an inch wide? Inch thick sounds like
something they'd have at Fort Knox.


Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.


If it's fiddly how about a Dremel?

Bill


Dremel wouldn't cut it's way out of a paper bag.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On 09/04/2015 12:52, RobertL wrote:
On Thursday, April 9, 2015 at 11:40:23 AM UTC+1, GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.




A door made of inch-thick steel! Is this a strong-room door or something?

Robert

Perhaps the OP is a drug dealer?



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

On 09/04/2015 11:40, GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.


Drill a row of 10mm holes with a HSS drill and then use a file to open
it up. It isn't hard work you just take your time.
Use a centre punch to start the drill and it will be easier.
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Default Help! Cutting steel.

I think you might find its stainless steel rather than plain steel.

When you try drilling stainless steel with a HSS drill bit, the stainless steel actually work hardens due to the chromium present in stainless steel.

This is what blunts the HSS drill bits.

What you need is cobalt drill bits. They cost more than HSS bits and even then you need to take it slow and steady and avoid heat build up.

Screwfix sell a set for around 30 quid.

Stephen.
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"RobertL" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, April 9, 2015 at 11:40:23 AM UTC+1, GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.




A door made of inch-thick steel!


He obviously means that the door
itself is that thick, not that the steel is.

Is this a strong-room door or something?



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On Thursday, April 9, 2015 at 9:07:55 PM UTC+1, wrote:
I think you might find its stainless steel rather than plain steel.

When you try drilling stainless steel with a HSS drill bit, the stainless steel actually work hardens due to the chromium present in stainless steel.

This is what blunts the HSS drill bits.

What you need is cobalt drill bits. They cost more than HSS bits and even then you need to take it slow and steady and avoid heat build up.

Screwfix sell a set for around 30 quid.

Stephen.


he's putting the new lock on after the crew abseiled down and got through the last door easily


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On 09/04/2015 17:50, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Sounds like a cold chisel and big hammer job! Is there any reason why you cannot chain drill right through the inch thick frame then all you would need to do is remove enough of the metal between the holes with a chisel to get a file in then it's plenty of elbow grease.

Richard

That is the way I would do it, but I know nothing.
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In article , GB
writes
On 09/04/2015 13:10, Bill Wright wrote:

The frame round the outside is indeed an inch thick.

Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.


It's hard to get any accuracy with that, but yes it's plan B.

You get accuracy by creating a guide/mask for the cutting disk and
fixing it securely in place, this can be any piece of strip, angle or at
a push piece of wood that you have lying around. If it wears out then
make a new one.

Best disks to use are the really thin ones (1.6mm or so is the current
thinnest I think) as it reduces the amount of material to be used and if
you make the first cuts with a number of used ones then you will have
plenty of reduced diameter ones that will be useful for cleaning out the
last bits.

I will let you get on with the logistics but I am dubious about the
material being 1" thick solid and generally fitting slotted mortice
locks in steel frames and doors.

Good luck all the same though.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
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On 09/04/15 18:22, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 09/04/2015 13:10, Bill Wright wrote:
Muddymike wrote:

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an
inch thick.


Do you mean an inch thick, or an inch wide? Inch thick sounds like
something they'd have at Fort Knox.


Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.


If it's fiddly how about a Dremel?

Bill


Dremel wouldn't cut it's way out of a paper bag.


That's not my experience (although it was using a B&D copy of a Dremel
about 20 years ago). I had to cut an awkward shape out of 3mm Stainless
Steel sheet. It took some time using one of these:
http://www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/tu...757.sl172-vm_1

But it worked out OK. Only thing I would say is that it is important to
keep the cutter well lubricated with oil. Now and again it dried out and
the cutter and SS glowed almost white hot for a few seconds until I
applied some more oil. Didn't harm the sharpness of the TC cutter at all.

--

Jeff
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GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.

It would be helpful if you supplied a photo as no one believes that you
have a solid one inch thick section of a door so as no one would know
what the problem is it is hard to comment.
The frame is probably hollow section and should be easily cut with hole
saws, hack saws, drills files etc.
Drills just need pressure and low speed (as much pressure as you can
apply without breaking the drill) hole saws similar but with lubricant.


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On 12/04/2015 07:24, F Murtz wrote:
GB wrote:
Help me please! I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My front door consists of a steel frame with removable glass panels. I
need to fit a mortice lock into the steel upright section, but I am
having loads of trouble cutting the steel. I previously drilled into the
steel using an ordinary HSS bit without any particular trouble, so I
thought that cutting into it would not be too hard. In fact, it's
defeating me! It's blunting all my tools, and I'm making virtually no
progress.

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an inch
thick. I need to cut a rectangle out about 7 x 1 cm, so the body of the
lock can go though.

I have tried a hacksaw type blade in a jigsaw, and that works a bit,
very slowly but the blade has been worn smooth already.

I tried a very expensive bimetal plunge blade for my multi tool, but
that's also blunt now.

There isn't space to get a hacksaw in, plus I probably do not have the
brawn to do it.

It would be helpful if you supplied a photo as no one believes that you
have a solid one inch thick section of a door so as no one would know
what the problem is it is hard to comment.
The frame is probably hollow section and should be easily cut with hole
saws, hack saws, drills files etc.
Drills just need pressure and low speed (as much pressure as you can
apply without breaking the drill) hole saws similar but with lubricant.


Those are my thoughts. While such doors might be used in banks, I'm left
struggling why anyone would choose or how you would hang a door of
400kg[1], and what the frame looks like!

[1] 2m x 1m x 0.025m x 8,000kg/m^3
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On 09/04/2015 16:39, GB wrote:
On 09/04/2015 13:10, Bill Wright wrote:
Muddymike wrote:



If it's fiddly how about a Dremel?


I have a Dremel, and I tried the thin cutting discs, which last about
ten seconds!


You don't want the thin, brittle ones; you want the slightly thicker
fibre reinforced sort.
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On 11/04/2015 08:35, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 09/04/15 18:22, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 09/04/2015 13:10, Bill Wright wrote:
Muddymike wrote:

The particular section I am dealing with at the moment is around an
inch thick.

Do you mean an inch thick, or an inch wide? Inch thick sounds like
something they'd have at Fort Knox.


Angle grinder with steel cutting disk.

If it's fiddly how about a Dremel?

Bill


Dremel wouldn't cut it's way out of a paper bag.


That's not my experience


Nor mine. Site metallurgists sometimes use them to chop samples out of
quite substantial bits of plant.

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