You know the soft close cabinet buttons?

Is there a heavy duty version that can be set in the frame or the back
of a door.

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it doesn't
half slam it shut.

I was wondering if there was a hydraulic button type that could catch
and absorb the energy over the last few inches of closing?

Googled - but nothing...

Tim Watts wrote:

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it
doesn't half slam it shut. I was wondering if there was a hydraulic
button type that could catch and absorb the energy over the last few
inches of closing?

I'd have thought that anything like that would be viewed as having the
potential to defeat the closer ... would a blade-type intumescent strip
"catch" the door sufficiently to stop the slam?

On 21/03/15 10:21, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it
doesn't half slam it shut. I was wondering if there was a hydraulic
button type that could catch and absorb the energy over the last few
inches of closing?

I'd have thought that anything like that would be viewed as having the
potential to defeat the closer ... would a blade-type intumescent strip
"catch" the door sufficiently to stop the slam?


I was thinking "hollow rubber semicircular strip"...

I did find an adjustable concealed closer, with adjustable speed and
latch action. By bum though, £180!!!

I did mention "regular office style closer" and SWMBO slapped me.

On Sat, 21 Mar 2015 10:37:55 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

On 21/03/15 10:21, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it
doesn't half slam it shut. I was wondering if there was a hydraulic
button type that could catch and absorb the energy over the last few
inches of closing?

I'd have thought that anything like that would be viewed as having the
potential to defeat the closer ... would a blade-type intumescent strip
"catch" the door sufficiently to stop the slam?


I was thinking "hollow rubber semicircular strip"...

I did find an adjustable concealed closer, with adjustable speed and
latch action. By bum though, £180!!!

I did mention "regular office style closer" and SWMBO slapped me.

I fitted a regular office door style closer to a door here. SWMBO helped
me fit it.


--
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wish to copy them they can pay me £30a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

Tim Watts wrote:

I did find an adjustable concealed closer

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

What about the hinge-side chain closers?




They don't slow the door.

DerbyBorn wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

They don't slow the door.

Ah, I've not looked at them closely; I thought the spring might be
running out of oomph by the time the door was nearly shut, in fact at
several houses I've seen them fitted the chains have been unscrewed ...

On 21/03/2015 10:11, Tim Watts wrote:
You know the soft close cabinet buttons?

Is there a heavy duty version that can be set in the frame or the back
of a door.

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it doesn't
half slam it shut.

I was wondering if there was a hydraulic button type that could catch
and absorb the energy over the last few inches of closing?

Googled - but nothing...

They are typically built into the more sophisticated (and ugly/visible)
closers with the articulated arm above the door.

You may find that say three Blum type dampers set into the stops would
do the trick though. Ditch the supplied mounting brackets and just drill
a striaght 10mm hole - pop them directly into the wood with the top of
the body flush to the surface. Also easy to replace if they wear.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 21/03/2015 11:55, Andy Burns wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

They don't slow the door.

Ah, I've not looked at them closely; I thought the spring might be
running out of oomph by the time the door was nearly shut, in fact at
several houses I've seen them fitted the chains have been unscrewed ...

Most of the cheap sprung closers can be adjusted, and they do pull less
hard when nearly closed. However if the door has already got some speed
up, its still going to close with a bang.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
On 21/03/2015 11:55, Andy Burns wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

They don't slow the door.

Ah, I've not looked at them closely; I thought the spring might be
running out of oomph by the time the door was nearly shut, in fact at
several houses I've seen them fitted the chains have been unscrewed ...

Most of the cheap sprung closers can be adjusted, and they do pull less
hard when nearly closed. However if the door has already got some speed
up, its still going to close with a bang.



The cheap sprung closers can be disconnected which solves the noisy
closing problem completely.

On Saturday, 21 March 2015 10:11:58 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
You know the soft close cabinet buttons?

Is there a heavy duty version that can be set in the frame or the back
of a door.

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it doesn't
half slam it shut.

I was wondering if there was a hydraulic button type that could catch
and absorb the energy over the last few inches of closing?

Can you fit some felt intumescent strip?
If that is not possible put a clip on the Perko chain and take the plate off to ease it out a couple of links.

On 21/03/2015 10:11, Tim Watts wrote:
You know the soft close cabinet buttons?

Is there a heavy duty version that can be set in the frame or the back
of a door.

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it doesn't
half slam it shut.

I was wondering if there was a hydraulic button type that could catch
and absorb the energy over the last few inches of closing?

Googled - but nothing...

Magnetic damping?

A sheet of Aluminium or Copper (but not steel!) on the floor (under the
carpet?) and some powerful pot magnets recessed into the underside of
the door may provide enough damping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MglUIiBy2lQ
....and loads more examples.

Cheers
--
Syd

The only type I've seen are part of the actual closer, so the force is
maintained, but the speed reduced near the end. No idea how they work,
rotating fan or something inside the metal box?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Watts wrote:

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it
doesn't half slam it shut. I was wondering if there was a hydraulic
button type that could catch and absorb the energy over the last few
inches of closing?

I'd have thought that anything like that would be viewed as having the
potential to defeat the closer ... would a blade-type intumescent strip
"catch" the door sufficiently to stop the slam?

"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:mejvp6$dhu$1@dont-
email.me:

The only type I've seen are part of the actual closer, so the force is
maintained, but the speed reduced near the end. No idea how they work,
rotating fan or something inside the metal box?
Brian


Proper hydraulic ones usually have two settings - one for closing speed -
and one for the firmer latching speed. They need seting correctly.

On 21/03/15 11:20, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

I did find an adjustable concealed closer

What about the hinge-side chain closers?



That's what's fitted and what happens is it builds up a lot of momentum
and BANG.

John's idea of a few Blum soft closers could work - as might my fall
back of a hollow rubber strip - it just needs something to take the edge
off the bang.

On 21/03/15 11:48, DerbyBorn wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?




They don't slow the door.


This is the adjustable one:

http://www.safelincs.co.uk/perko-pow...d-door-closer/

But - ow...

On 21/03/15 14:31, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 21/03/2015 10:11, Tim Watts wrote:
You know the soft close cabinet buttons?

Is there a heavy duty version that can be set in the frame or the back
of a door.

I have a door with an inbuilt firedoor closer (required) but it doesn't
half slam it shut.

I was wondering if there was a hydraulic button type that could catch
and absorb the energy over the last few inches of closing?

Googled - but nothing...

Magnetic damping?

A sheet of Aluminium or Copper (but not steel!) on the floor (under the
carpet?) and some powerful pot magnets recessed into the underside of
the door may provide enough damping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MglUIiBy2lQ
...and loads more examples.

Cheers

Sir - I like your style!

I have no idea if that would work on a door, but what an idea...

The old scout bus my school had in the 1980s was an ex mountain bus and
had electromagetic damper brakes.

On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 11:20:58 AM UTC, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

I did find an adjustable concealed closer

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

The tension can be adjusted on these.

Jonathan

On 22/03/15 18:57, Jonathan wrote:
On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 11:20:58 AM UTC, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

I did find an adjustable concealed closer

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

The tension can be adjusted on these.

Really - oh cool.

OK - I'll find out how to do that. I think with a little less ferocity
it would be OK.

Tim Watts wrote:

Jonathan wrote:

The tension can be adjusted on these.

OK - I'll find out how to do that.

http://concealeddoorclosers.com/downloads-2/

I went digging on the Samuel Heath website and came across a nice letter
plate, well yes it's nice, but not £225 nice!

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:23:04 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

The tension can be adjusted on these.

Really - oh cool.

OK - I'll find out how to do that. I think with a little less ferocity
it would be OK.

Still suffers the problem of always accelerating the door to a rapid
closure. I've a similar problem here, using one of the sprung arm
closers. With it adjusted so the door is going fast enough to just
latch it still goes BANG. I'm going to get a proper two stage closer.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:23:04 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

The tension can be adjusted on these.

Really - oh cool.

OK - I'll find out how to do that. I think with a little less ferocity
it would be OK.

Still suffers the problem of always accelerating the door to a rapid
closure. I've a similar problem here, using one of the sprung arm
closers. With it adjusted so the door is going fast enough to just
latch it still goes BANG. I'm going to get a proper two stage closer.


Why not just disconnect it?

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 21:25:28 +0000, Capitol wrote:

Still suffers the problem of always accelerating the door to a
rapid
closure. I've a similar problem here, using one of the sprung arm
closers. With it adjusted so the door is going fast enough to just
latch it still goes BANG. I'm going to get a proper two stage
closer.

Why not just disconnect it?

'Cause it's a fire door between two buildings. It can be held open by
an electro magnetic holder that de-energises when the smoke alarms go
off, the door then needs to close properly.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 23/03/15 21:25, Capitol wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:23:04 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

What about the hinge-side chain closers?

The tension can be adjusted on these.

Really - oh cool.

OK - I'll find out how to do that. I think with a little less ferocity
it would be OK.

Still suffers the problem of always accelerating the door to a rapid
closure. I've a similar problem here, using one of the sprung arm
closers. With it adjusted so the door is going fast enough to just
latch it still goes BANG. I'm going to get a proper two stage closer.


Why not just disconnect it?

Interesting point...

Looking at Part B and flats as there's a nice little diagram:

Building Regs prior to 2013 required internal fire doors to have self
closers. Post 2013 they did not - only fire doors onto shared escape
areas, eg the front door of a flat.

One could argue that since BR no longer require self closers on some
doors, there's no harm in removing them.

OTOH what would the insurers say if you had a fire that gutted the whole
place instead of maybe being confined to one room and they discovered
that when the place was built, BR required something that had later been
removed on purpose.

I have no idea how that would play out.

However, in my younger days, I would confess to having removed all the
self closers on my flat as they were a right PITA. However they were
only little pins in sprung hinges so easily replaced.

In those days I tended not to think about stuff too hard - Oh happy days