I am shortly (for a very loose definition of shortly because I keep
getting diverted) going to lay a tongue and groove (probably) OSB floor to
the lounge. The floor will be treated (probably varnish) and left bare i.e.
not covered by any floor covering.

Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving device.

It could also make the fitting of the pipework easier in the first place
as I could kneel on the main floor and just joggle the panel into place
with the pipes through it, avoiding any unsightly slots in the floor.

I would have to un-tongue or un-groove the board enough to be able to lift
and replace.

Anyone done this?
Any obvious 'gotchas'?

Cheers

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 3:58:24 PM UTC, David wrote:
Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving device.

If you only drill holes in the board and poke the pipes through, you won't be able to remove the board subsequently without dismantling the radiator.

Better to cut slots in the board so you can lift the board out with the plumbinggubbins in situ.

Owain

In message ,
writes
On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 3:58:24 PM UTC, David wrote:
Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving device.

If you only drill holes in the board and poke the pipes through, you
won't be able to remove the board subsequently without dismantling the
radiator.

Better to cut slots in the board so you can lift the board out with the
plumbinggubbins in situ.



If you cut slots, cut them in a wedge shape, with the bit behind the
pipes the wider end. Keep the bit cutout.

Then when the board is fitted you can take the little cutout bit, trim
to a suitable size and then stick it back in the gap behind the pipe.
filling the gap, adn the cut isn't really noticeable.

If you need to remove the board you can probably prise the cutout bit
out (though I've never had to do so, but that would be my plan, I use
UHU type glue to hold it

--
Chris French

On Tue, 02 Dec 2014 09:58:16 -0800, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 3:58:24 PM UTC, David wrote:
Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving
device.

If you only drill holes in the board and poke the pipes through, you
won't be able to remove the board subsequently without dismantling the
radiator.

Better to cut slots in the board so you can lift the board out with the
plumbinggubbins in situ.

Owain

I was thinking that the board could slide up the pipes for a quick and
desperate fettle.

However if I want to close the valves and disconnect the pipes that is
still a lot easier if I only have to lift a very small section of floor.

What I don't want is what should be a minor plumbing issue having me tear
up the entire floor.
If it is T&G 8*4 boards then getting the buggers apart and up would be a
major undertaking.

Granted that if I combined the small floor panel with slots I could get
the ease of floor lifting with the ability to take the panel out without
draining the CH.

Cheers

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

In article ,
writes
On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 3:58:24 PM UTC, David wrote:
Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving device.

If you only drill holes in the board and poke the pipes through, you won't be able to
remove the board subsequently without dismantling the radiator.

Alternatively, if you drill holes for the pipes then cut across the
board bisecting the holes then you should be able to lift a de-tongued
board out and then pull it out and forward once there is enough slant on
it to clear the shoulders around the half circle.

I would fill the groove of the adjacent board and add a foam
draughtstrip to the de-tongued edge of the removable board.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 02/12/2014 15:58, David wrote:
I am shortly (for a very loose definition of shortly because I keep
getting diverted) going to lay a tongue and groove (probably) OSB floor to
the lounge. The floor will be treated (probably varnish) and left bare i.e.
not covered by any floor covering.

Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving device.

It could also make the fitting of the pipework easier in the first place
as I could kneel on the main floor and just joggle the panel into place
with the pipes through it, avoiding any unsightly slots in the floor.

I would have to un-tongue or un-groove the board enough to be able to lift
and replace.

Anyone done this?
Any obvious 'gotchas'?

Cheers

Dave R

An alternative (since you're doing what seems to be a major job anyway
and you'll have the floor up) would be to consider re-configuring the
radiator feed. (My plumber/gas man did this as part of a job a few
years ago and I've been doing similar since then.)
If you take the pipework up behind the skirting using plastic, emerging
behind the radiator, these pipes can be taken to each side or the rad
almost invisibly, using right angled tails. This should be possible
without disturbing the skirting, although you will have to patch the
plaster behind the rad (but nobody will see it).
The advantage would be that you don't need any slots or holes in your
flooring, which is now clear to the wall.
I would still plan for a removable hatch to access the pipework.

On Tue, 02 Dec 2014 20:25:20 +0000, fred wrote:

In article ,
writes
On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 3:58:24 PM UTC, David wrote:
Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one
board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the
radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the
pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving
device.

If you only drill holes in the board and poke the pipes through, you
won't be able to remove the board subsequently without dismantling the
radiator.

Alternatively, if you drill holes for the pipes then cut across the
board bisecting the holes then you should be able to lift a de-tongued
board out and then pull it out and forward once there is enough slant on
it to clear the shoulders around the half circle.

I would fill the groove of the adjacent board and add a foam
draughtstrip to the de-tongued edge of the removable board.

Thanks - that looks an interesting idea.

Cheers

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

In article , David wrote:
What I don't want is what should be a minor plumbing issue having me tear
up the entire floor.
If it is T&G 8*4 boards then getting the buggers apart and up would be a
major undertaking.

Oh yes! DAMHIKT.