Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker cabinet. Would
prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent in case it attacks the
plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just leave the thing open for some
time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

--
*I didn't like my beard at first. Then it grew on me.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 31/10/2014 18:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker cabinet. Would
prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent in case it attacks the
plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just leave the thing open for some
time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

Might be a good application for something like copydex - somewhat
rubbery and elastic, no aggressive solvents etc.


--
Cheers,

John.

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In message , John
Rumm writes
On 31/10/2014 18:07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker cabinet. Would
prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent in case it attacks the
plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just leave the thing open for some
time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

Might be a good application for something like copydex - somewhat
rubbery and elastic, no aggressive solvents etc.


I was thinking maybe that.

Or solvent free clear UHU type glue
--
Chris French

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker cabinet. Would
prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent in case it attacks the
plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just leave the thing open for some
time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

--
*I didn't like my beard at first. Then it grew on me.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

PVA is good. Foam has to be flat, virtually no gap filling properties.
Has to be left pressed together until it sets, may take a couple of hours.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote

Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker
cabinet. Would prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent
in case it attacks the plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just
leave the thing open for some time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

It'll be fine.

Contact cement should work fine too.

Hot melt glue should work fine too.

In article , Rod Speed
writes
Dave Plowman (News) wrote

Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker
cabinet. Would prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent
in case it attacks the plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just
leave the thing open for some time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

It'll be fine.

Contact cement should work fine too.

Hot melt glue should work fine too.
I suppose a solvent-free contact cement would be OK; but the old solvent
Evostick, etc. is a definite no-no; the vapour will rot cone
suspensions.-hard won experience
If the foam is for damping air vibration then stapling the foam to the
wood will work. If you are trying to reduce the vibration of the wood
panels then you do need to bond the foam to the wood
--
Chris Holford

On 12/11/14 22:43, Chris Holford wrote:
In article , Rod Speed
writes
Dave Plowman (News) wrote

Need to fix acoustic foam to the inside of a loudspeaker
cabinet. Would prefer a glue with a non aggressive solvent
in case it attacks the plastics etc used in the drivers. Or just
leave the thing open for some time so it evaporates?

I was wondering if PVA would be ok?

It'll be fine.

Contact cement should work fine too.

Hot melt glue should work fine too.
I suppose a solvent-free contact cement would be OK; but the old solvent
Evostick, etc. is a definite no-no; the vapour will rot cone
suspensions.-hard won experience
If the foam is for damping air vibration then stapling the foam to the
wood will work. If you are trying to reduce the vibration of the wood
panels then you do need to bond the foam to the wood


Copydex.... It was virtually made for this job

In article ,
Chris Holford wrote:
I suppose a solvent-free contact cement would be OK; but the old solvent
Evostick, etc. is a definite no-no; the vapour will rot cone
suspensions.-hard won experience
If the foam is for damping air vibration then stapling the foam to the
wood will work. If you are trying to reduce the vibration of the wood
panels then you do need to bond the foam to the wood

It's more normal to use bitumen or whatever panels to dampen vibrations to
the wood. The foam is to reduce reflected sound within the cabinet. And
stapling it would crush it, and reduce its effectiveness?

I'm thinking hot melt is probably as good as anything as the foam is
largely self supporting anyway.

--
*Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.