Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed pipe is leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the tap.

I've turned off the relevant gatevalve to the hot water and left the leaking tap turned on and wrapped a towel round it for now.

I wish to fit a shut-off (1.4 turn of a screwdriver type) to this pipe so I can isolate it whilst still being able to use the rest of the system.

http://www.plumbase.co.uk/john-guest...c-5999-2204597

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a case of cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

From this newly fitted shut-off I was then going to get flexi hoses for ease of connection.

Thoughts?

I've never fitted a shut off before, or cut a pipe. I'm a keen amateur I suppose with no plumbing experience but generally okay with DIY.

Thanks
Jon

Is it a combi boiler making the hw?

If so I'd try remaking the leaky union before starting surgery?

With a combi you can just turn the mains off and drain down in 5 mins from the kitchen tap say, no hot water cylinder full or feed/expansion tanks to deal with...
Who knows if you are lucky and get a seal next time you may never need the iso valve...

Jim K

On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 8:00:38 PM UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Is it a combi boiler making the hw?
If so I'd try remaking the leaky union before starting surgery?

No, not a combi.

Regards
Jon

You will probably find all you need to do is replace the fibre washer in the tap connector to stop your leak. The first cut off valve you show is designed for plastic pipe. The second fitting will cope with hot water the problem with it is that the flexible portion is narrower and is more suitable for cold taps which are usually directly connected to the rising main thus under mains pressure. Pressure and volume of flow in the hot water system is dependant on the head of water you have in your cold water tank. To give acceptable flow hot water taps normally have 22mm supply pipes whereas the cold water tap wil have a 15mm supply. If you have 22mm copper supply to your tap and you wish to isolate the tap then the type you need is the one shown at the top a full bore type that does not present any constriction to flow.

http://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-pl...age_sta rt=20

Richard

On 30/09/2014 21:02, Tricky Dicky wrote:

You will probably find all you need to do is replace the fibre washer
in the tap connector to stop your leak. The first cut off valve you
show is designed for plastic pipe.

Actually speedfit fittings work fine on plastic and copper pipes.



--
Cheers,

John.

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On 01/10/2014 01:43, John Rumm wrote:
On 30/09/2014 21:02, Tricky Dicky wrote:

You will probably find all you need to do is replace the fibre washer
in the tap connector to stop your leak. The first cut off valve you
show is designed for plastic pipe.

Actually speedfit fittings work fine on plastic and copper pipes.


Agreed. I would caution against using it on an existing pipe in a
confined space though, unless you can be certain of making a really
clean cut, and can get at the pipe to clean it up with wire wool. A
compression fitting would be a safer bet. Also, the OP is assuming that
the pipe is 22mm but doesn't state the age of the installation. If it's
pre about 1970, it could be imperial 3/4" pipe in which case a 22mm
pushfit won't be a tight enough fit - but 22mm compression is ok with a
suitable olive.

The other thing about the fitting referred to is that it isn't full
bore, and may restrict the flow on a gravity hot water system.

Having said all that, I agree with the first remark - that all that may
be needed is a new fibre washer.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
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On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 7:51:43 PM UTC+1, Jon Parker wrote:

Or even this?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/flex-tap-c...ails_container

Although it does say cold water only. What makes it unsuitable for hot water?

Jon

On 30/09/14 20:03, Jon Parker wrote:
On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 7:51:43 PM UTC+1, Jon Parker wrote:

Or even this?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/flex-tap-c...ails_container

Although it does say cold water only. What makes it unsuitable for hot water?

Jon


Tip: You can shorten the links:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/b/18501

Now:

http://www.bes.co.uk/products/095.asp

has more data...

Basically, as the temp goes up, the max working pressure goes down. You
will generally find a good quality hose will handle HW temps (say
50-60C) at typical mains pressures (5-7 bar).

But it's best to buy a known brand and consult the manufacturer's pages
to be sure...

On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 8:03:11 PM UTC+1, Jon Parker wrote:
On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 7:51:43 PM UTC+1, Jon Parker wrote:



Or even this?



http://www.screwfix.com/p/flex-tap-c...ails_container



Although it does say cold water only. What makes it unsuitable for hot water?



Jon

I note that some of the other flexible connectors on the Screwfix site say not suitable for drinking water. I've bought various versions of these hoses over the years and never considered either restriction. And I've even drunk hot water !
Simon.

On Tue, 30 Sep 2014 11:51:43 -0700 (PDT), Jon Parker wrote:

Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed pipe
is leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the tap.

Did you use a new fibre washer? You might get away with just nipping
the nut up a bit more.

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a case
of cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

Unless it is designed to be a "slip" fitting then no. You will have
to remove a short section of pipe and have enough "give" in the
pipework to get the pipe ends out of line to shove it onto the end of
one. Then the pipe ends need to move apart enough to get the other
end into the fitting and then back together to fit.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 30/09/14 19:51, Jon Parker wrote:
Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed pipe is leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the tap.

I've turned off the relevant gatevalve to the hot water and left the leaking tap turned on and wrapped a towel round it for now.

I wish to fit a shut-off (1.4 turn of a screwdriver type) to this pipe so I can isolate it whilst still being able to use the rest of the system.

http://www.plumbase.co.uk/john-guest...c-5999-2204597

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a case of cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

From this newly fitted shut-off I was then going to get flexi hoses for ease of connection.

Thoughts?

I've never fitted a shut off before, or cut a pipe. I'm a keen amateur I suppose with no plumbing experience but generally okay with DIY.

Thanks
Jon


JG is pretty good and if I had to I would use their stuff (I have, for
temporary plumbing).

But can you manage an old fashioned compression joint and use a solid
good quality 1/4 isolator (eg Peglar)?

On 30/09/2014 19:51, Jon Parker wrote:
Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed
pipe is leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the
tap.

I've turned off the relevant gatevalve to the hot water and left the
leaking tap turned on and wrapped a towel round it for now.

I wish to fit a shut-off (1.4 turn of a screwdriver type) to this
pipe so I can isolate it whilst still being able to use the rest of
the system.

http://www.plumbase.co.uk/john-guest...c-5999-2204597

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a
case of cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

Pretty much, however you will need to cut the copper with a pipe slice
and not a hacksaw since the fitting has a rubber o-ring that requires
the edge of the pipe to be nice and smooth and burr free. You will also
likely need to make two cuts to remove a bit of pipe, since the fitting
will take up some space.

One of the small ones are good for getting into tight spaces:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/tube-cutter-3-28mm/49428

Fit it round the pipe and do up the knurled knob tightly. Turn it round
the pipe a couple of times and then tighten the knob again. Repeat a few
times and it will cut cleanly through the pipe leaving the end smooth
and slightly tapered / rounded off - perfect for push fit fittings.

From this newly fitted shut-off I was then going to get flexi hoses
for ease of connection.

Thoughts?

Yup, you can also get flexi fittings that have a service valve built
into one end.

I've never fitted a shut off before, or cut a pipe. I'm a keen
amateur I suppose with no plumbing experience but generally okay with
DIY.

So long as you can turn off the hot water, you should be fine. (with a
traditional hot water cylinder there may be a shut off valve in the cold
feed from the header tank into the base of the hot water cylinder, if
not, you can always reach into the cold water cistern and stick a plug
into the outlet - that will prevent fresh water getting into the
cylinder and in turn stop any hot water getting out)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Jon Parker" wrote in message
...
Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed pipe is
leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the tap.

I've turned off the relevant gatevalve to the hot water and left the
leaking tap turned on and wrapped a towel round it for now.

I wish to fit a shut-off (1.4 turn of a screwdriver type) to this pipe so
I can isolate it whilst still being able to use the rest of the system.

http://www.plumbase.co.uk/john-guest...c-5999-2204597

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a case of
cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

From this newly fitted shut-off I was then going to get flexi hoses for
ease of connection.

Thoughts?

I've never fitted a shut off before, or cut a pipe. I'm a keen amateur I
suppose with no plumbing experience but generally okay with DIY.

Many of these "quareter turn valves" are absolute crap and may not function
when you want to operate them in a few years. They might also leak if you
do.
So not worth bothering.
As you have changed the taps you will know what's needed to drain down. Just
get on and do it.

"harryagain" wrote:
"Jon Parker" wrote in message
...
Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed pipe is
leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the tap.

I've turned off the relevant gatevalve to the hot water and left the
leaking tap turned on and wrapped a towel round it for now.

I wish to fit a shut-off (1.4 turn of a screwdriver type) to this pipe so
I can isolate it whilst still being able to use the rest of the system.

http://www.plumbase.co.uk/john-guest...c-5999-2204597

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a case of
cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

From this newly fitted shut-off I was then going to get flexi hoses for
ease of connection.

Thoughts?

I've never fitted a shut off before, or cut a pipe. I'm a keen amateur I
suppose with no plumbing experience but generally okay with DIY.

Many of these "quareter turn valves" are absolute crap and may not function
when you want to operate them in a few years. They might also leak if you
do.
So not worth bothering.
As you have changed the taps you will know what's needed to drain down. Just
get on and do it.

Indeed. Another problem is that unless they're "full bore" they will
grossly restrict the flow in a gravity fed system.

Tim