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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
Just been installing a number of batten fluorescents overhead in the
garage. These came from Toolstation and use screwed terminal blocks to connect into. Unfortunately the damn screws are not captive and fall out onto the garage floor to disappear forever whenever it is least convenient. Getting stranded conduit wire into these was a no no, so I used crimped on terminations to give me an easier entry. I don't understand why the manufacturer has not adjusted the plastic to make the screw captive. I have very old terminal blocks with captive screws so it is perfectly feasible. Fortunately the screws are M3.5 so either a cut down electrical fixing screw or one of my spare terminal block screws got me out of trouble, but if I were a professional I'd look for another product where the screws were captive. |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
On 26/08/14 17:51, Capitol wrote:
Fortunately the screws are M3.5 so either a cut down electrical fixing screw or one of my spare terminal block screws got me out of trouble, but if I were a professional I'd look for another product where the screws were captive. Or Wago Connectors -- Adrian C |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
On Tue, 26 Aug 2014 17:51:41 +0100, Capitol
wrote: Just been installing a number of batten fluorescents overhead in the garage. These came from Toolstation and use screwed terminal blocks to connect into. Unfortunately the damn screws are not captive and fall out onto the garage floor to disappear forever whenever it is least convenient. Getting stranded conduit wire into these was a no no, so I used crimped on terminations to give me an easier entry. I don't understand why the manufacturer has not adjusted the plastic to make the screw captive. I have very old terminal blocks with captive screws so it is perfectly feasible. Fortunately the screws are M3.5 so either a cut down electrical fixing screw or one of my spare terminal block screws got me out of trouble, but if I were a professional I'd look for another product where the screws were captive. I would instinctivly give the terminal screw half a turn righty- tighty before removing the screwdriver. -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
"Capitol" wrote in message
o.uk... Just been installing a number of batten fluorescents overhead in the garage. These came from Toolstation and use screwed terminal blocks to connect into. Unfortunately the damn screws are not captive and fall out onto the garage floor to disappear forever whenever it is least convenient. Getting stranded conduit wire into these was a no no, so I used crimped on terminations to give me an easier entry. I don't understand why the manufacturer has not adjusted the plastic to make the screw captive. I have very old terminal blocks with captive screws so it is perfectly feasible. Fortunately the screws are M3.5 so either a cut down electrical fixing screw or one of my spare terminal block screws got me out of trouble, but if I were a professional I'd look for another product where the screws were captive. Put insulating tape over the screws and poke the screwdriver through the tape to turn but the tape holds the screw in place |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
On 27/08/2014 11:22, Tomin Dotsson wrote:
Put insulating tape over the screws and poke the screwdriver through the tape to turn but the tape holds the screw in place A blob of Blu-tack works for me. -- F |
#6
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Aagh the screws.
F wrote:
On 27/08/2014 11:22, Tomin Dotsson wrote: Put insulating tape over the screws and poke the screwdriver through the tape to turn but the tape holds the screw in place A blob of Blu-tack works for me. I like the blu-tack idea, but why not design the product to work? |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
On 26/08/2014 17:53, Adrian C wrote:
On 26/08/14 17:51, Capitol wrote: Fortunately the screws are M3.5 so either a cut down electrical fixing screw or one of my spare terminal block screws got me out of trouble, but if I were a professional I'd look for another product where the screws were captive. I unscrew until I hear the 'click' of last thread then screw back in a full turn. I agree captive screws would be better -- UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/ |
#8
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Aagh the screws.
On Wednesday, August 27, 2014 4:43:10 PM UTC+1, Capitol wrote:
F wrote: On 27/08/2014 11:22, Tomin Dotsson wrote: Put insulating tape over the screws and poke the screwdriver through the tape to turn but the tape holds the screw in place A blob of Blu-tack works for me. I like the blu-tack idea, but why not design the product to work? A manufacturer with limited skill gets to make more lines and more money. The connectors sell for a bit less so the appliance mfr gets to save 0.1p per appliance - its all win for those involved. NT |
#9
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Aagh the screws.
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 16:43:10 +0100, Capitol
wrote: F wrote: On 27/08/2014 11:22, Tomin Dotsson wrote: Put insulating tape over the screws and poke the screwdriver through the tape to turn but the tape holds the screw in place A blob of Blu-tack works for me. I like the blu-tack idea, but why not design the product to work? A telling question but the advice being offered are 'workarounds' to overcome such a design defficiency. You'd best ask that of the manufacturers rather than the people here. -- J B Good |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Aagh the screws.
In article , Capitol
writes Just been installing a number of batten fluorescents overhead in the garage. These came from Toolstation and use screwed terminal blocks to connect into. Unfortunately the damn screws are not captive and fall out onto the garage floor to disappear forever whenever it is least convenient. Getting stranded conduit wire into these was a no no, so I used crimped on terminations to give me an easier entry. I don't understand why the manufacturer has not adjusted the plastic to make the screw captive. I have very old terminal blocks with captive screws so it is perfectly feasible. Fortunately the screws are M3.5 so either a cut down electrical fixing screw or one of my spare terminal block screws got me out of trouble, but if I were a professional I'd look for another product where the screws were captive. FFS, buy cheap ****, expect cheap **** performance. Toolstation is cheap ****. Want MK performance, buy MK (occasionally available at TS). -- fred it's a ba-na-na . . . . |
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