Hi,

You know those capacitor start motors? What is the other thing in the
box along with the capacitor (it's bound in with a
microswitch).Whatever it is,mine's gone open circuit so the motor
can't run. :-(

cheers.

In article ,
Cursitor Doom writes:
Hi,

You know those capacitor start motors? What is the other thing in the
box along with the capacitor (it's bound in with a
microswitch).Whatever it is,mine's gone open circuit so the motor
can't run. :-(

Thermal trip, overload trip, spider, ...
A picture would help.

If it's really a *start* capacitor as opposed to a *run* capacitor,
there will be something to switch it out of the circuit once the
motor has started, such as a centrifugal switch.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:01:11 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
Cursitor Doom writes:
Hi,

You know those capacitor start motors? What is the other thing in the
box along with the capacitor (it's bound in with a
microswitch).Whatever it is,mine's gone open circuit so the motor
can't run. :-(

Thermal trip, overload trip, spider, ...
A picture would help.

If it's really a *start* capacitor as opposed to a *run* capacitor,
there will be something to switch it out of the circuit once the
motor has started, such as a centrifugal switch.

I had thought it might be thermal protection, but it's not up against
the motor as such a device ought to be, surely.
I can't provide a photo, but appears on the exterior of the box to be
a roughly 12mm diameter threaded black plastic collar with a pin in
the middle. This pin has a tiny hole in the middle of it. Overall it
resembles a coaxial socket from an old style TV. The pin doesn't
appear to move as I would have expected for re-setting purposes.And
behind that as I've said is a mains voltage microswitch in series with
the incoming live wire.

"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:01:11 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
Cursitor Doom writes:
Hi,

You know those capacitor start motors? What is the other thing in the
box along with the capacitor (it's bound in with a
microswitch).Whatever it is,mine's gone open circuit so the motor
can't run. :-(

Thermal trip, overload trip, spider, ...
A picture would help.

If it's really a *start* capacitor as opposed to a *run* capacitor,
there will be something to switch it out of the circuit once the
motor has started, such as a centrifugal switch.

I had thought it might be thermal protection, but it's not up against
the motor as such a device ought to be, surely.
I can't provide a photo, but appears on the exterior of the box to be
a roughly 12mm diameter threaded black plastic collar with a pin in
the middle. This pin has a tiny hole in the middle of it. Overall it
resembles a coaxial socket from an old style TV. The pin doesn't
appear to move as I would have expected for re-setting purposes.And
behind that as I've said is a mains voltage microswitch in series with
the incoming live wire.


It sounds like a current detection device.
Probably a bimetal strip with a resistance wire close to it.
Heat from the resistance wire causes it to open.
It is closed for a few seconds until the motor runs up to speed and then
opens.
You get them on refrigerators where the motor is all sealed in.
The switch is in series with the start winding but the resistor is in series
with everything.
So while the motor is running the switch remains open. Only closes when the
motor stops.


These are used in place of a centrifugal switch mentioned by someone else.
Cheaper.

Turn the motor on and give the shaft a twirl, if it runs, the fault lies in
the start circuit, quit epossibly in the device we are discussing

In article ,
Cursitor Doom writes:
On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:01:11 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
Cursitor Doom writes:
Hi,

You know those capacitor start motors? What is the other thing in the
box along with the capacitor (it's bound in with a
microswitch).Whatever it is,mine's gone open circuit so the motor
can't run. :-(

Thermal trip, overload trip, spider, ...
A picture would help.

If it's really a *start* capacitor as opposed to a *run* capacitor,
there will be something to switch it out of the circuit once the
motor has started, such as a centrifugal switch.

I had thought it might be thermal protection, but it's not up against
the motor as such a device ought to be, surely.
I can't provide a photo, but appears on the exterior of the box to be
a roughly 12mm diameter threaded black plastic collar with a pin in
the middle. This pin has a tiny hole in the middle of it. Overall it
resembles a coaxial socket from an old style TV. The pin doesn't
appear to move as I would have expected for re-setting purposes.And
behind that as I've said is a mains voltage microswitch in series with
the incoming live wire.

What's the motor application?
Fridge/freezer compressors are sized to only just be able to drive
the load, for reasons of economic running. This means that there are
circumstances where they can't actually start running, e.g. if the
refrigeration system still has any dynamic pressure from the last
run, which will present enough resistance for the compressor to
fail to start. This results in extra 'locked rotor' current being
drawn, and a resistance wire and bimetal switch is used to cut-out
the compressor when this happens. A minute or so later when the trip
has cooled and cuts back in, the dynamic pressure will have likely
dropped or vanished, and the compressor will attempt to start again.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 16 Aug 2014 11:31:19 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

it came off a jacussi pump

What's the motor application?

********, causality issues with this post.

Fridge/freezer compressors are sized to only just be able to drive
the load, for reasons of economic running. This means that there are
circumstances where they can't actually start running, e.g. if the
refrigeration system still has any dynamic pressure from the last
run, which will present enough resistance for the compressor to
fail to start. This results in extra 'locked rotor' current being
drawn, and a resistance wire and bimetal switch is used to cut-out
the compressor when this happens. A minute or so later when the trip
has cooled and cuts back in, the dynamic pressure will have likely
dropped or vanished, and the compressor will attempt to start again.

welll, whatever it is it appears to be f*cked. cheers all.