Using Hammerite Smooth finish on a some box & angle steel additions to a
box trailer.

Previously the instructions said re-coat within 4 Hrs or leave for 6 weeks.

It no longer says that ... just that it is re-coatable after 4 Hrs ..
Assume this changed when Finnegans ceased to be owners and they changed
formulation. (no longer Carbon Tetrachloride as solvent)

Even the web site has no restriction on re-coats.

Anybody found any issues with putting 2nd coat on the next day ?



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UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammer****e...?

/Adrian
Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammer****e...? /q

Suggest away.....??

Jim K

On Wed, 06 Aug 2014 14:27:21 -0700, JimK wrote:

Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of
hammer****e...?

Suggest away.....??

Shall we start at Dulux and work upwards? grin

A few years back, I asked a specialist paint supplier about the best
stuff to use on some car suspension I was going to be rotary wire-
brushing up. I was actually asking about their zinc-rich "cold-galv"
paints, but they pointed me away from them (great if blast-cleaned, not
so hot if only "mechanically" cleaned). They suggested Rustoleum 769.

On Wed, 06 Aug 2014 21:31:29 +0000, Adrian wrote:

A few years back, I asked a specialist paint supplier about the best
stuff to use on some car suspension I was going to be rotary wire-
brushing up. I was actually asking about their zinc-rich "cold-galv"
paints, but they pointed me away from them (great if blast-cleaned, not
so hot if only "mechanically" cleaned). They suggested Rustoleum 769.

Actually, if a smooth and glossy finish is less important, I'd be just
breaking out the schutz gun. It's what I'm planning on doing on the
single-wheel trailer when I get round to it.

I always Found the Hamerite what I used to call bumpy finish, lasted longer
than the smooth. I think like a lot of paints, as chemicals which are
allowed changed the paint got more and more diluted or weak.

Brian

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From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammer****e...?

On Wed, 6 Aug 2014 21:32:41 +0000 (UTC), Adrian wrote:

They suggested Rustoleum 769.

There is another two didgit paint that gets mentioned in here but
memory fails me other than possibly tractors and 35.

It's what I'm planning on doing on the single-wheel trailer when I get
round to it.

The mind boggles at a single wheel trailer. Isn't it a little
unstable when not coupled up?

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

Adrian wrote:

It's what I'm planning on doing on the single-wheel trailer when I get
round to it.

The mind boggles at a single wheel trailer.

They seem to go hand-in-hand with Beetles

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...2245Medium.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5559/dscn0157kp.jpg
http://www.oldbug.com/randel26.jpg

On 06/08/2014 21:51, Adrian wrote:
Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammer****e...?


The trailer already painted in the stuff ... so seemed logical to redo
it in same .... Smooth finish silver.

I also have had boat trailers and Hammerite is useless for those ....
salt-water just eats right though the 'dimples' in hammer finish.


I need at some point to strip trailer down ... and repaint all frame -
maybe I'll look at something better then.


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UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

On 06/08/2014 22:27, JimK wrote:
/Adrian
Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammer****e...? /q

Suggest away.....??

Jim K


Best approach would be to remove all existing paint (not an easy task)
then spray with acid-etch primer, then coat with a 2-part epoxy paint.

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UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

On 07/08/2014 08:57, Brian Gaff wrote:
I always Found the Hamerite what I used to call bumpy finish, lasted longer
than the smooth. I think like a lot of paints, as chemicals which are
allowed changed the paint got more and more diluted or weak.

Brian



as I mentioned earlier .. have had many boats trailers and for years
coated with 'hammer' finish, with repeated dunking in Salt-water the
dimples are a thin clear lacquer .... it would soon have rust spots on
the dimples.
Then water would get under the Hammerite hard coat ... and not long
before big pieces would flake off.

I swapped to smooth finish and that seemed to fair better or boat trailers.

However as it has new formulation no idea how long stuff will last now.
On this project ... I extended draw bar on a 5'x4' box trailer, so
wanted to paint that to match metalwork of trailer - which is silver
Hammerite.


Not sure if the change of solvent base has any negative or positive
impact on longevity ....maybe somebody here will know.

I assume Tricho has now been banned - one of my first jobs was in a
company that had huge heated tanks of the stuff for degreasing cable
conductors prior to extruding on the insulation.
Read a few year later that exposure to Tricho fumes causes live damage
.... and they had open heated vats of the stuff ... :-(




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UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

May be you are referring to Tractol paint.

ISTR this may be a spray only finish as it used to dry too quick for brush application.

ISTR that the Hammerite finish was based on an error in manufacturing. It a;ways struck me as being akin to the 'Fisheyes' effect in lacquer when applied over something tainted with silicon.

Any paint finish is only as good as the surface preparation

On 08/08/2014 16:28, Huge wrote:
On 2014-08-07, Rick Hughes wrote:
On 06/08/2014 22:27, JimK wrote:
/Adrian
Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammer****e...? /q

Suggest away.....??

Jim K


Best approach would be to remove all existing paint (not an easy task)

Get it sand-blasted.



cost is very high when I have looked at this before

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UK SelfBuild: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/