Meh - just spent all day on one lock. 1.5hours finding tools and some
quite significant number of hours drilling and chiselling away to fit a
sash mortice lock.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...7646089786851/

I must admit - I am pleased on 2 counts:

1) "My first mortice lock" (TM) turned out OK-ish.

2) I am not a locksmith because doing those *******s all day would drive
me insane!


I did not build the shed - I wimped out because the old one was shagged
(most of one side was missing as was half the floor). I need storage so
I can get on with the house. So I bought a "workshop grade" one from a
local shed company.

Quite impressed with the constriction - it's almost like I would build
one by hand if I had the time. The door is a flush fit and tick enough
to take a mortice. In fact I actually need to get an extra long square
bar (140mm) as the door is so thick.


I have an upgrade plan for when it no longer needs to store crap and can
be maybe used as a proper workshop: add celotex and line it properly.
Replace felt with "rubber" roofing tiles.


As my old base is 3" out of level over the diagonal (the base is solid
enough - just very old and subsided) I went for the "extra base" option.

Also was wise to make the new shed narrower (12x6) instead of 10x8 as
the old base is 12x8 and someone extended with an extra 2 ft of
concrete. I say concrete - but they clearly forgot to add any cement as
the hose can wash it away!


Little less impressed by the installers' idea of levelling the base -
few bits of 2x3 acting as "legs" screwed on to an otherwise well made
frame with one screw and half the weight of the shed going through about
4 of these "legs".

What they should have used is these:

http://www.exteriordecking.co.uk/sho...n=SP-MEG-022-Z

where the load bears directly down through an adjustable pad with a load
capacity of 800kg.

I've ordered a few and will slip them in under key beams and then tweak
them up until tight. Typical british - build something quite nicely then
bodge the installation even when there is an inexpensive product
designed to solve that exact problem.

Anyway - one more mortice lock down lower, couple of hinge bolts and it
should be pretty solid. Locks are keyed alike with house so no extra keys

Sounds quite nice, how much wonga?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Meh - just spent all day on one lock. 1.5hours finding tools and some
quite significant number of hours drilling and chiselling away to fit a
sash mortice lock.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...7646089786851/

I must admit - I am pleased on 2 counts:

1) "My first mortice lock" (TM) turned out OK-ish.

2) I am not a locksmith because doing those *******s all day would drive
me insane!


I did not build the shed - I wimped out because the old one was shagged
(most of one side was missing as was half the floor). I need storage so I
can get on with the house. So I bought a "workshop grade" one from a local
shed company.

Quite impressed with the constriction - it's almost like I would build one
by hand if I had the time. The door is a flush fit and tick enough to take
a mortice. In fact I actually need to get an extra long square bar (140mm)
as the door is so thick.


I have an upgrade plan for when it no longer needs to store crap and can
be maybe used as a proper workshop: add celotex and line it properly.
Replace felt with "rubber" roofing tiles.


As my old base is 3" out of level over the diagonal (the base is solid
enough - just very old and subsided) I went for the "extra base" option.

Also was wise to make the new shed narrower (12x6) instead of 10x8 as the
old base is 12x8 and someone extended with an extra 2 ft of concrete. I
say concrete - but they clearly forgot to add any cement as the hose can
wash it away!


Little less impressed by the installers' idea of levelling the base - few
bits of 2x3 acting as "legs" screwed on to an otherwise well made frame
with one screw and half the weight of the shed going through about 4 of
these "legs".

What they should have used is these:

http://www.exteriordecking.co.uk/sho...n=SP-MEG-022-Z

where the load bears directly down through an adjustable pad with a load
capacity of 800kg.

I've ordered a few and will slip them in under key beams and then tweak
them up until tight. Typical british - build something quite nicely then
bodge the installation even when there is an inexpensive product designed
to solve that exact problem.

Anyway - one more mortice lock down lower, couple of hinge bolts and it
should be pretty solid. Locks are keyed alike with house so no extra keys

"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:lrihej$8pa$1@dont-
email.me:

Sounds quite nice, how much wonga?
Brian


Best thing I ever did with a shed (mine) over 35 years ago was to keep it
in pieces in the garage whilst I gave it many coats of Cuprinol -
especially under the floor.
Many get delivered in raw condition - get erected and then someone decides
to treat only the exposed surfaces after it has rained a few times.

On 02/08/14 12:18, Brian Gaff wrote:
Sounds quite nice, how much wonga?
Brian


More than a regular shed -

I calculated I could have made one to a similar spec for about the same
amount but mine would include insulation and "eco" (rubber) fake slate
roof tiles.

As it's only a 6 x 12 foot shed and I needed it now, I wimped. The walls
and roof are well made with 3x2 inch framing - but the floor could have
been stronger - a rather bouncy arrangement of 2x1 inch roofing battens
laid over another grid of roofing battens at right angles.

Why they did not simply use 3x2 joists I do not know...

However, when the house is done I will be building a bigger one in the
corner of the garden my way

Tis nice though to have a clean and dry shed at last...

On 02/08/14 19:16, DerbyBorn wrote:
"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:lrihej$8pa$1@dont-
email.me:

Sounds quite nice, how much wonga?
Brian


Best thing I ever did with a shed (mine) over 35 years ago was to keep it
in pieces in the garage whilst I gave it many coats of Cuprinol -
especially under the floor.
Many get delivered in raw condition - get erected and then someone decides
to treat only the exposed surfaces after it has rained a few times.


I did that with my dad when we built our first shed decades ago. That
lasted a long time.

This one is pressure treated - though it will be getting coated with a
woodstain/preserver. It is well raised off the ground on a treated frame
with lots of ventilation so the floor should last...