An induction hob I'm looking at fitting says:

"We recommend a ventilation gap at the
front of the hob of 20 mm to ensure
good ventilation."

What does that mean? There's a 3-4mm gap over the top of the oven
control bezel.

I was wondering about undercutting the hob opening at 45 degrees at the
front edge like this:


|
| Rear Hob Front
________======================-----
||| ==================== |||| Worktop
||| \||
---------------------------- Gap under "\"
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| Oven |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |


* = ventilation gap


Or have I misunderstood this?

Tim Watts wrote:

An induction hob I'm looking at fitting says:

"We recommend a ventilation gap at the
front of the hob of 20 mm to ensure
good ventilation."

It means a gap between the bottom of the hob/worktop to whatever is
underneath it.
So you shouldnt sit the hob on top of a solid topped unit.
--
Alan
To reply by mail, change '+' to 'plus'

On 27/07/14 12:13, A.Lee wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

An induction hob I'm looking at fitting says:

"We recommend a ventilation gap at the
front of the hob of 20 mm to ensure
good ventilation."

It means a gap between the bottom of the hob/worktop to whatever is
underneath it.
So you shouldnt sit the hob on top of a solid topped unit.


It did say "front" which is why I did not think it meant that.

It does say also "15mm to top of oven/cupboard" which is fine (I have
70mm from top of worktop to top of oven and the hob is 50mm thick).


It also says "10mm at the back for cable" which is also fine - in that
case there is 10mm just behind the oven all the way down. The kick
plinth has a top cutaway 50cm to the left for the benefit of the fridge
(built in) so there's plenty of air able to get in from underneath.


Just looking at this as induction hobs are electronics heavy and heat is
bad (TM)

On 27/07/2014 12:05, Tim Watts wrote:
An induction hob I'm looking at fitting says:

"We recommend a ventilation gap at the
front of the hob of 20 mm to ensure
good ventilation."

What does that mean? There's a 3-4mm gap over the top of the oven
control bezel.

I was wondering about undercutting the hob opening at 45 degrees at the
front edge like this:


|
| Rear Hob Front
________======================-----
||| ==================== |||| Worktop
||| \||
---------------------------- Gap under "\"
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| Oven |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |


* = ventilation gap


Or have I misunderstood this?

I removed some of the front top edge of the cabinet which is under my
hob, so that air can flow between the bottom of the worktop and the top
of the cabinet draw. I left bits to ensure that the work top was
adequately supported and would not warp over time.


--
Michael Chare

On 27/07/14 13:15, Michael Chare wrote:

I removed some of the front top edge of the cabinet which is under my
hob, so that air can flow between the bottom of the worktop and the top
of the cabinet draw. I left bits to ensure that the work top was
adequately supported and would not warp over time.

OK - cool. Thanks Michael - that seems to confirm.

I do not have that exact option as the oven goes up to the bottom of the
worktop (bar 3-4mm gap).

So it seems like a reasonable idea to bevel the corner provided it does
not mess up the mounting or impair the worktop strength too much.

On an aside - what's a good sealant for chip worktops inside the cutout
(installation destructions mentioned it was a good idea). Emulsion paint?

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...

I do not have that exact option as the oven goes up to the bottom of the worktop (bar
3-4mm gap).

A bit of googling suggests it's heat from the oven beneath which
when in use can affect the heat sensor in the induction hob.
And basically switch it off.

Hence the need for an adequate gap.

If both are never used together then there might possibly be
no problem

Because induction hobs are quite thick as compared with gas hobs
measurements should be taken from the bottom of the hob, rather
than the bottom of the worktop.


michael adams

....

On 27/07/14 17:03, michael adams wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...

I do not have that exact option as the oven goes up to the bottom of the worktop (bar
3-4mm gap).

A bit of googling suggests it's heat from the oven beneath which
when in use can affect the heat sensor in the induction hob.
And basically switch it off.

Hence the need for an adequate gap.

If both are never used together then there might possibly be
no problem

Because induction hobs are quite thick as compared with gas hobs
measurements should be taken from the bottom of the hob, rather
than the bottom of the worktop.

Indeed - I checked that. Top of worktop to top of over = 70mm.

Hob thickness 50mm

Leaving a gap of 20mm between them - 15mm is the manufacturer's minimum.

Does sound like a good idea to open up the front a little. I'd drop the
oven if I could, but it's not possible.

What exactly are they trying to cool, the control gear?

Brian

--
From the Bed of Brian Gaff.
The email is valid as
Blind user.
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
An induction hob I'm looking at fitting says:

"We recommend a ventilation gap at the
front of the hob of 20 mm to ensure
good ventilation."

What does that mean? There's a 3-4mm gap over the top of the oven control
bezel.

I was wondering about undercutting the hob opening at 45 degrees at the
front edge like this:


|
| Rear Hob Front
________======================-----
||| ==================== |||| Worktop
||| \||
---------------------------- Gap under "\"
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| Oven |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |


* = ventilation gap


Or have I misunderstood this?

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On an aside - what's a good sealant for chip worktops inside the cutout
(installation destructions mentioned it was a good idea). Emulsion paint?


Emulsion would be about the worst option, given that it's water based and
it's water that you are trying to keep out of the cut.
I normally use clear silicone, two large beads run around the inside of the
cut, then spread with a scraper or plastic offcut so as to form a complete
coating of the weetabix

On 27/07/14 17:22, Brian Gaff wrote:
What exactly are they trying to cool, the control gear?

Yes - exactly

Electronics do tend to get unhappy if baked.

I still amazed you can build an oven in so tight without everything
catching fire - so the oven insulation must be quite good. Even so, bit
of air around the underside of the hob won't go amiss.

The instructions don't say "must" but it seems to be recommended.

On 27/07/14 17:26, Phil L wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On an aside - what's a good sealant for chip worktops inside the cutout
(installation destructions mentioned it was a good idea). Emulsion paint?


Emulsion would be about the worst option, given that it's water based and
it's water that you are trying to keep out of the cut.
I normally use clear silicone, two large beads run around the inside of the
cut, then spread with a scraper or plastic offcut so as to form a complete
coating of the weetabix

Thanks Phil - I'll do that.

On 27/07/14 17:26, Phil L wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On an aside - what's a good sealant for chip worktops inside the cutout
(installation destructions mentioned it was a good idea). Emulsion paint?


Emulsion would be about the worst option, given that it's water based and
it's water that you are trying to keep out of the cut.
I normally use clear silicone, two large beads run around the inside of the
cut, then spread with a scraper or plastic offcut so as to form a complete
coating of the weetabix

And that's what I did today with some old glazing grade silicone I had
kicking about.

After doing it it was very clearly the "right way" to seal the edge.

Thanks Phil! An hour spent possibly extended the life of the worktop but
some years.


And I fixed a cracked cooker connect unit cover - but had to buy 2 as
the first one did not fit properly due to the connection terminals being
rather proud and the cover being full of mouldings...

replying to Tim Watts, Manji wrote:
I have fixed Neff induction hob and when I am using big plate more then 15
minutes, I get smell like plastic burning. Any one face this type of problem
and what's the solution. There is ample ventilation underneath.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...on-986383-.htm

On 26/01/17 14:14, Manji wrote:
replying to Tim Watts, Manji wrote:
I have fixed Neff induction hob and when I am using big plate more then 15
minutes, I get smell like plastic burning. Any one face this type of
problem
and what's the solution. There is ample ventilation underneath.


Dude - quote the original please - I am using a USENET reader and cannot
see the thread.

This is also 2 years old at least.

And to answer the question, no - I have had no problems with a Miele hob
with a 4-5cm space underneath and a 1cm gap over the top of the fitted oven.

Yes indeed this portal does not always insert dates, thus when read in the
proper way, nobody knows if its current or old, which is why I suspect we
see so many regurgitated old threads from this one place.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
news
On 26/01/17 14:14, Manji wrote:
replying to Tim Watts, Manji wrote:
I have fixed Neff induction hob and when I am using big plate more then
15
minutes, I get smell like plastic burning. Any one face this type of
problem
and what's the solution. There is ample ventilation underneath.


Dude - quote the original please - I am using a USENET reader and cannot
see the thread.

This is also 2 years old at least.

And to answer the question, no - I have had no problems with a Miele hob
with a 4-5cm space underneath and a 1cm gap over the top of the fitted
oven.

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
news
Yes indeed this portal does not always insert dates, thus when read in the
proper way, nobody knows if its current or old, which is why I suspect we
see so many regurgitated old threads from this one place.
Brian

--
It always shows the posted dates to me, admittedly in faint grey type top
right.
--
Dave W

On 26/01/2017 20:50, Dave W wrote:
It always shows the posted dates to me, admittedly in faint grey type top
right

As far as I can see it's the same font/colour etc as the text of the post.

Andy

Vir Campestris wrote:
On 26/01/2017 20:50, Dave W wrote:
It always shows the posted dates to me, admittedly in faint grey type top
right

As far as I can see it's the same font/colour etc as the text of the post.

That surely depends entirely on the news reading program. In mine I
can set the colours (differently) for almost every part.

--
Chris Green
·

Chris Green wrote:

Vir Campestris wrote:

Dave W wrote:

It always shows the posted dates to me,
admittedly in faint grey type top right

As far as I can see it's the same font/colour etc as the text of
the post.

That surely depends entirely on the news reading program.
In mine I can set the colours (differently) for almost every part.

But the HOH users haven't got a dedicated newsreader, they see the page
in their browser, where (to me also) the grey of the date is no lighter
than the grey of the body text.

https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/fitted-induction-hob-ventilation-986383-.htm

Andy Burns wrote:
Chris Green wrote:

Vir Campestris wrote:

Dave W wrote:

It always shows the posted dates to me,
admittedly in faint grey type top right

As far as I can see it's the same font/colour etc as the text of
the post.

That surely depends entirely on the news reading program.
In mine I can set the colours (differently) for almost every part.

But the HOH users haven't got a dedicated newsreader, they see the page
in their browser, where (to me also) the grey of the date is no lighter
than the grey of the body text.

https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/fitted-induction-hob-ventilation-986383-.htm

Even a web browser interface allows you some flexibility, you can tell
it to ignore the web site's CSS for example and to use your own
typefaces rather then theirs.

--
Chris Green
·

On 31/01/17 09:10, Chris Green wrote:
Vir Campestris wrote:
On 26/01/2017 20:50, Dave W wrote:
It always shows the posted dates to me, admittedly in faint grey type top
right

As far as I can see it's the same font/colour etc as the text of the post.

That surely depends entirely on the news reading program. In mine I
can set the colours (differently) for almost every part.

Usenet News is not supposed to support mime, so plain text only, with
whatever character set is specified is all that can be guaranteed.


--
"I am inclined to tell the truth and dislike people who lie consistently.
This makes me unfit for the company of people of a Left persuasion, and
all women"

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 31/01/17 09:10, Chris Green wrote:
Vir Campestris wrote:
On 26/01/2017 20:50, Dave W wrote:
It always shows the posted dates to me, admittedly in faint grey type top
right

As far as I can see it's the same font/colour etc as the text of the post.

That surely depends entirely on the news reading program. In mine I
can set the colours (differently) for almost every part.

Usenet News is not supposed to support mime, so plain text only, with
whatever character set is specified is all that can be guaranteed.

Yes, plain text, in whatever colour I fancy! :-)

The colour is set locally so nothing to do with character encoding.

--
Chris Green
·

Chris Green wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

the HOH users haven't got a dedicated newsreader, they see the page
in their browser, where (to me also) the grey of the date is no lighter
than the grey of the body text.

Even a web browser interface allows you some flexibility, you can tell
it to ignore the web site's CSS for example and to use your own
typefaces rather then theirs.

You can, but it's not something I'd expect many HOH users to know about.