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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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stainless steel nails for rafters
I've replaced some rafters with green oak ones,
i'm told i need 6 inch stainless steel nails to attach them to the purlins but cant find any in Hereford or on internet. Any ideas where to get them? These ones look too thin, or are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...item23317e15a8 |
#2
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stainless steel nails for rafters
In message , george - dicegeorge
writes These ones look too thin, or are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...aterial_Nails_ Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item23317e15a8 I've no idea whether they are suitable, but am intrigued by the way 50 appear to cost £7.50 but 100 cost £23. What have I missed? -- Bill |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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stainless steel nails for rafters
In message , Bill
writes In message , george - dicegeorge writes These ones look too thin, or are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...ank-Nails-150m m-x-4-50-Various-Quantities-/151154202024?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_ Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item23317e15a8 I've no idea whether they are suitable, but am intrigued by the way 50 appear to cost £7.50 but 100 cost £23. What have I missed? 10 = £2 (20p each) 20 = £4 (20p each) 30 = £6.50 (21,666p each) 50 = £7.50 (15p each) 100 = £23 (23p each) Obviously, it's best to buy packs of 50. [Possibly it's because of postal weight price breaks?] -- Ian |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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stainless steel nails for rafters
"george - dicegeorge" wrote in message ... I've replaced some rafters with green oak ones, i'm told i need 6 inch stainless steel nails to attach them to the purlins but cant find any in Hereford or on internet. Any ideas where to get them? These ones look too thin, or are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...item23317e15a8 You can get SS coach screws. Use them istead. Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. Also not very strong. It was only used years ago because they had nothing else and it was rot resistant. |
#5
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stainless steel nails for rafters
On 09/07/14 08:38, harryagain wrote:
"george - dicegeorge" wrote in message ... I've replaced some rafters with green oak ones, i'm told i need 6 inch stainless steel nails to attach them to the purlins but cant find any in Hereford or on internet. Any ideas where to get them? These ones look too thin, or are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...item23317e15a8 You can get SS coach screws. Use them istead. Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. Also not very strong. It was only used years ago because they had nothing else and it was rot resistant. I was told that green oak is better than tanalised as thats what the other rafters were made of. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. [g] |
#6
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stainless steel nails for rafters
On Wed, 09 Jul 2014 11:21:45 +0100, george - dicegeorge wrote:
Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. I thought that's why things built of green oak used proper pegged timber joints, so it could move. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. Damn sight easier to undo screws than pull nails, especially big 6" jobbies. Anyway see above shouldn't be a metal nail in sight, joints and pegs. -- Cheers Dave. |
#7
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stainless steel nails for rafters
In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes On Wed, 09 Jul 2014 11:21:45 +0100, george - dicegeorge wrote: Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. I thought that's why things built of green oak used proper pegged timber joints, so it could move. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. Damn sight easier to undo screws than pull nails, especially big 6" jobbies. Anyway see above shouldn't be a metal nail in sight, joints and pegs. Not if the screws are Turbo Ultra A2 stainless. Using these in Oak I found they snap off if you attempt to undo. Counter boring or 8mm hex head might be OK. Driving a soft 6" nail in any sort of Oak is going to be a recipe for bad language:-) -- Tim Lamb |
#8
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stainless steel nails for rafters
On 09/07/2014 11:21, george - dicegeorge wrote:
On 09/07/14 08:38, harryagain wrote: "george - dicegeorge" wrote in message ... I've replaced some rafters with green oak ones, i'm told i need 6 inch stainless steel nails to attach them to the purlins but cant find any in Hereford or on internet. Any ideas where to get them? These ones look too thin, or are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...item23317e15a8 You can get SS coach screws. Use them istead. Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. Also not very strong. It was only used years ago because they had nothing else and it was rot resistant. I was told that green oak is better than tanalised as thats what the other rafters were made of. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. [g] Not if they are annular ring nails, like the ones you linked to. They are designed to be almost impossible to pull out of timber. -- Colin Bignell |
#9
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stainless steel nails for rafters
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message ... In message o.uk, Dave Liquorice writes On Wed, 09 Jul 2014 11:21:45 +0100, george - dicegeorge wrote: Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. I thought that's why things built of green oak used proper pegged timber joints, so it could move. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. Damn sight easier to undo screws than pull nails, especially big 6" jobbies. Anyway see above shouldn't be a metal nail in sight, joints and pegs. Not if the screws are Turbo Ultra A2 stainless. Using these in Oak I found they snap off if you attempt to undo. Counter boring or 8mm hex head might be OK. Driving a soft 6" nail in any sort of Oak is going to be a recipe for bad language:-) Green oak is very soft. It is hard as iron almost when dried out. You have to drill pilot holes even for nails in old oak. |
#10
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stainless steel nails for rafters
the purlins which im attaching the new green oak rafters are very old oak, at least a hundred years old. Hve bought some stianless steel coach bolts as well as the nails. I will report back.
[George] (PS using google groups as the newsgroup keeps failing at my ISP) On Wednesday, July 9, 2014 8:10:29 PM UTC+1, harry wrote: "Tim Lamb" wrote in message ... In message o.uk, Dave Liquorice writes On Wed, 09 Jul 2014 11:21:45 +0100, george - dicegeorge wrote: Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. I thought that's why things built of green oak used proper pegged timber joints, so it could move. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. Damn sight easier to undo screws than pull nails, especially big 6" jobbies. Anyway see above shouldn't be a metal nail in sight, joints and pegs. Not if the screws are Turbo Ultra A2 stainless. Using these in Oak I found they snap off if you attempt to undo. Counter boring or 8mm hex head might be OK. Driving a soft 6" nail in any sort of Oak is going to be a recipe for bad language:-) Green oak is very soft. It is hard as iron almost when dried out. You have to drill pilot holes even for nails in old oak. |
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