This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

I've purchased some 20mm blue PP pipe and need to run it from the boiler
room under a concrete path, under some patio slabs and to the bottom of
the garden, either down the side of the wall or through a trench in the
grass.

Any suggestions as to how deep I should run it and if it needs any
additional protection.
I won't be running it anywhere that will be mechanically "dug" so am
thinking 6 or 8 " might be ample depth.

Cheers - Pete@

On 15/03/2014 12:57, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

I've purchased some 20mm blue PP pipe and need to run it from the boiler
room under a concrete path, under some patio slabs and to the bottom of
the garden, either down the side of the wall or through a trench in the
grass.

Any suggestions as to how deep I should run it and if it needs any
additional protection.
I won't be running it anywhere that will be mechanically "dug" so am
thinking 6 or 8 " might be ample depth.



Not if you don't want it freezing.
The depth recommendations are to avoid that so about 1m is needed in
most of the UK.

If you aren't worried about it freezing then there is no need to bury it
at all.

On 15/03/2014 13:19, dennis@home wrote:

Not if you don't want it freezing.
The depth recommendations are to avoid that so about 1m is needed in
most of the UK.

If you aren't worried about it freezing then there is no need to bury it
at all.

Not worried about freezing really.
The mechanical filter and top-up etc will (I think) be shut down for the
real winter months with the pumps set to just circulate the water
through bio filter as the ponds not heated so fish won't be feeding so
very little solid waste to remove...

I did consider running it down the side fence/wall which isn't visible
so if I plan on it freezing anyway then I guess there's no problem
either way.


Pete@

On 15/03/2014 12:57, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

I've purchased some 20mm blue PP pipe and need to run it from the boiler
room under a concrete path, under some patio slabs and to the bottom of
the garden, either down the side of the wall or through a trench in the
grass.

Any suggestions as to how deep I should run it and if it needs any
additional protection.
I won't be running it anywhere that will be mechanically "dug" so am
thinking 6 or 8 " might be ample depth.

Cheers - Pete@

Under what circumstances will water by flowing through the pipe? Is it
just for topping up? If so, is that automatic or will you open a tap
somewhere when you want to do it?

The blue pipe running to my pond is buried by no more than a foot, but
it runs under a paved area - so no-one will be sticking a fork through
it. You're supposed to cover it with suitable warning tape, I think -
but I didn't.

Mine is part of an automatic top-up system, converting to copper above
ground at the pond end, and connected to a torbek valve installed inside
an ice-cream container hidden under a fibreglass gunnera (sp?) leaf.

At the house end, the water passes through a double check valve before
going underground. There's a quarter turn tap inside, which I turn off
during the winter months in case the whole thing freezes.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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""Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)"" wrote in message
...
This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

I've purchased some 20mm blue PP pipe and need to run it from the boiler
room under a concrete path, under some patio slabs and to the bottom of
the garden, either down the side of the wall or through a trench in the
grass.

Any suggestions as to how deep I should run it and if it needs any
additional protection.
I won't be running it anywhere that will be mechanically "dug" so am
thinking 6 or 8 " might be ample depth.

Cheers - Pete@

You should bury it really. UV light effects it.

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

If the pipe will normally be empty, if you make sure it drains at the
lowest point it won't freeze. Alternatively wrap some of that 'warm
wire' stuff and some lagging before you bury it.

Bill

I was just thinking that, even lagged pipe freezes at around a foot as i
know to my cost from days gone by.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 15/03/2014 12:57, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

I've purchased some 20mm blue PP pipe and need to run it from the boiler
room under a concrete path, under some patio slabs and to the bottom of
the garden, either down the side of the wall or through a trench in the
grass.

Any suggestions as to how deep I should run it and if it needs any
additional protection.
I won't be running it anywhere that will be mechanically "dug" so am
thinking 6 or 8 " might be ample depth.



Not if you don't want it freezing.
The depth recommendations are to avoid that so about 1m is needed in most
of the UK.

If you aren't worried about it freezing then there is no need to bury it
at all.

On 15/03/2014 16:58, Roger Mills wrote:

Under what circumstances will water by flowing through the pipe? Is it
just for topping up? If so, is that automatic or will you open a tap
somewhere when you want to do it?

Hi Roger,
Normal circumstances will eventually be and electronic top-up solenoid
operated by sensor which should be a few litres every hour or so once a
drum filter is fitted. but also going to tee in and put a regular tap
somewhere in the garden for hosepipe duties.

Also had the idea of an electronic cat/bird water scarer thing triggered
by IR sensor. Sure I've seen something that will do the job.


The blue pipe running to my pond is buried by no more than a foot, but
it runs under a paved area - so no-one will be sticking a fork through
it. You're supposed to cover it with suitable warning tape, I think -
but I didn't.

Mine is part of an automatic top-up system, converting to copper above
ground at the pond end, and connected to a torbek valve installed inside
an ice-cream container hidden under a fibreglass gunnera (sp?) leaf.

At the house end, the water passes through a double check valve before
going underground. There's a quarter turn tap inside, which I turn off
during the winter months in case the whole thing freezes.

Pretty much as I've got planned, but I haven't got a check valve yet and
also want to put a water meter on the line inside for taking a note of
total volume when filling and to keep a track on overall water usage in
case something goes wrong out of sight.



Pete@

On 15/03/2014 17:18, harryagain wrote:

You should bury it really. UV light effects it.

Out the back of our shop there's a yard and behind that the old stables.
About 10 years ago the shop next to us ran a length of blue water pipe
along the top of the wall to provide water into the stables/garage which
was rented out.
I checked the pipe last week and it's turned very pale blue but it still
"feels" like original, certainly doesn't feel like it's stiffened over
the years for being in direct sunlight.

Not like the corrugated black pipe sold by pond supplies. That rubbish
goes hard and brittle in a couple of years..


Cheers - Pete@

--
http://www.gymequipment.freeindex.co.uk/
Independent reviews of our humble gym emporium.

On 15/03/2014 20:34, Bill Wright wrote:

If the pipe will normally be empty, if you make sure it drains at the
lowest point it won't freeze. Alternatively wrap some of that 'warm
wire' stuff and some lagging before you bury it.

Thanks Bill
I think I'll just drain it down when fish have stopped feeding.
I did wonder if a multi-foil type insulation might help.

I guess even insulated a shallow pipe will still freeze if the water in
it is stationary as the ground will slowly bring everything down to the
same temp over a prolonged period of sub zero daily temps. as we had a
few years back.

Cheers

Pete@

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:

I guess even insulated a shallow pipe will still freeze if the water in
it is stationary as the ground will slowly bring everything down to the
same temp over a prolonged period of sub zero daily temps. as we had a
few years back.

In my experience that's correct. I have a blue pipe that's under 9" of
concrete and after a fortnight of exceptionally cold weather a few years
ago it did finally freeze up.

Bill

""Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)"" wrote in message
...
On 15/03/2014 17:18, harryagain wrote:

You should bury it really. UV light effects it.

Out the back of our shop there's a yard and behind that the old stables.
About 10 years ago the shop next to us ran a length of blue water pipe
along the top of the wall to provide water into the stables/garage which
was rented out.
I checked the pipe last week and it's turned very pale blue but it still
"feels" like original, certainly doesn't feel like it's stiffened over
the years for being in direct sunlight.

Not like the corrugated black pipe sold by pond supplies. That rubbish
goes hard and brittle in a couple of years..


Cheers - Pete@

Nevertheless, the UV has weakened it.
And will continue to do so.

On 16/03/2014 00:20, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
On 15/03/2014 16:58, Roger Mills wrote:

Under what circumstances will water by flowing through the pipe? Is it
just for topping up? If so, is that automatic or will you open a tap
somewhere when you want to do it?

Hi Roger,
Normal circumstances will eventually be and electronic top-up solenoid
operated by sensor which should be a few litres every hour or so once a
drum filter is fitted. but also going to tee in and put a regular tap
somewhere in the garden for hosepipe duties.


I don't quite understand how water will get *consumed*. Why do you need
to top up so frequently. I only need to top up to compensate for
evaporation.

Also had the idea of an electronic cat/bird water scarer thing triggered
by IR sensor. Sure I've seen something that will do the job.


They certainly exist. The perceived wisdom is that herons get used to
them, and cease to be frightened away. Herons are the bane of my life. I
can keep them away from the fish by covering the pond with a large net
supported on a wooden structure - but it's far from pretty and SWMBO
sometimes says she'd rather let the fish take their chances than have to
put up with an unsightly net.

Anyone got any better ideas for keeping herons away?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Roger Mills wrote:
On 16/03/2014 00:20, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
On 15/03/2014 16:58, Roger Mills wrote:

Under what circumstances will water by flowing through the pipe? Is it
just for topping up? If so, is that automatic or will you open a tap
somewhere when you want to do it?

Hi Roger,
Normal circumstances will eventually be and electronic top-up solenoid
operated by sensor which should be a few litres every hour or so once a
drum filter is fitted. but also going to tee in and put a regular tap
somewhere in the garden for hosepipe duties.


I don't quite understand how water will get *consumed*. Why do you need
to top up so frequently. I only need to top up to compensate for evaporation.


Google "drum filters". I believe they flush the bulkier crud down the
drains to lessen the load on any bio filtering system.

Tim

On 16/03/2014 10:45, Roger Mills wrote:

They certainly exist. The perceived wisdom is that herons get used to
them, and cease to be frightened away. Herons are the bane of my life. I
can keep them away from the fish by covering the pond with a large net
supported on a wooden structure - but it's far from pretty and SWMBO
sometimes says she'd rather let the fish take their chances than have to
put up with an unsightly net.

Anyone got any better ideas for keeping herons away?

Herons can't land in the water so you just have to stop them wading in.
A single wire "fence" around the pond will stop that if its in the right
place.

On 16/03/2014 11:02, Tim+ wrote:

Google "drum filters". I believe they flush the bulkier crud down the
drains to lessen the load on any bio filtering system.

It's done automatically as the drum screen becomes blocked the drum
water level rises triggering the cleaning cycle.
High pressure jets blast the rotating drum screen flushing solid matter
to waste with minimum water usage. As the solids are removed the
cleaning cycles become less frequent.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 16/03/2014 10:45, Roger Mills wrote:

They certainly exist. The perceived wisdom is that herons get used to
them, and cease to be frightened away. Herons are the bane of my life. I
can keep them away from the fish by covering the pond with a large net
supported on a wooden structure - but it's far from pretty and SWMBO
sometimes says she'd rather let the fish take their chances than have to
put up with an unsightly net.

Anyone got any better ideas for keeping herons away?

Herons can't land in the water so you just have to stop them wading in.
A single wire "fence" around the pond will stop that if its in the right
place.


Or this:-)

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=bfd_1383309728

--
Adam

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
On 16/03/2014 00:20, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
On 15/03/2014 16:58, Roger Mills wrote:

Under what circumstances will water by flowing through the pipe? Is it
just for topping up? If so, is that automatic or will you open a tap
somewhere when you want to do it?

Hi Roger,
Normal circumstances will eventually be and electronic top-up solenoid
operated by sensor which should be a few litres every hour or so once a
drum filter is fitted. but also going to tee in and put a regular tap
somewhere in the garden for hosepipe duties.


I don't quite understand how water will get *consumed*. Why do you need to
top up so frequently. I only need to top up to compensate for evaporation.

Also had the idea of an electronic cat/bird water scarer thing triggered
by IR sensor. Sure I've seen something that will do the job.


They certainly exist. The perceived wisdom is that herons get used to
them, and cease to be frightened away. Herons are the bane of my life. I
can keep them away from the fish by covering the pond with a large net
supported on a wooden structure - but it's far from pretty and SWMBO
sometimes says she'd rather let the fish take their chances than have to
put up with an unsightly net.

Anyone got any better ideas for keeping herons away?

An ape sitting next to the pond with a shotgun.

On 16/03/2014 16:07, ARW wrote:
"dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 16/03/2014 10:45, Roger Mills wrote:

Anyone got any better ideas for keeping herons away?

Herons can't land in the water so you just have to stop them wading in.
A single wire "fence" around the pond will stop that if its in the
right place.


Or this:-)

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=bfd_1383309728


Hm. There was an old woman who swallowed a fly . . .
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 16/03/2014 12:00, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/03/2014 10:45, Roger Mills wrote:

Herons can't land in the water so you just have to stop them wading in.
A single wire "fence" around the pond will stop that if its in the right
place.

I have a couple of big round highly polished metal balls floating in the
kiddie pool. About 9" diameter, a garden architectural feature I think
they're designed for but they float and move around on the pool surface
with the wind and water flow from filter return.

Herons don't like very shiny things I believe.

Pete@

On 15/03/2014 13:19, dennis@home wrote:
On 15/03/2014 12:57, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
This is the year my pond WILL be ready for the fish....

Time has come to get a water supply to it.

I've purchased some 20mm blue PP pipe and need to run it from the boiler
room under a concrete path, under some patio slabs and to the bottom of
the garden, either down the side of the wall or through a trench in the
grass.

Any suggestions as to how deep I should run it and if it needs any
additional protection.
I won't be running it anywhere that will be mechanically "dug" so am
thinking 6 or 8 " might be ample depth.



Not if you don't want it freezing.
The depth recommendations are to avoid that so about 1m is needed in
most of the UK.

If you aren't worried about it freezing then there is no need to bury it
at all.

I wonder if the recommendations are a bit on the conservative side
though - the old lead pipe to our house (originally installed in 1935)
is around 18" down and hasn't frozen in the 20-odd years I've been here.
In that time we've had a couple of pretty harsh winters - many things in
our garage froze.

SteveW

On 16/03/2014 21:32, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote:
On 16/03/2014 12:00, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/03/2014 10:45, Roger Mills wrote:

Herons can't land in the water so you just have to stop them wading in.
A single wire "fence" around the pond will stop that if its in the right
place.

I have a couple of big round highly polished metal balls floating in the
kiddie pool. About 9" diameter, a garden architectural feature I think
they're designed for but they float and move around on the pool surface
with the wind and water flow from filter return.

Herons don't like very shiny things I believe.

Pete@

They tend to come at dawn and dusk, though, when there ain't much light
to make anything shine.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

""Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)"" wrote in message
...
On 16/03/2014 12:00, dennis@home wrote:
On 16/03/2014 10:45, Roger Mills wrote:

Herons can't land in the water so you just have to stop them wading in.
A single wire "fence" around the pond will stop that if its in the right
place.

I have a couple of big round highly polished metal balls floating in the
kiddie pool. About 9" diameter, a garden architectural feature I think
they're designed for but they float and move around on the pool surface
with the wind and water flow from filter return.

Herons don't like very shiny things I believe.

No, but you'll be attracting magpies instead



Magpies actually like anything that isn't theirs, shiny or not, i have a pet
magpie and the only way to stop him nicking things is to pretend you don't
care about the item he's after,