When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar
or is there something more modern to use?

"bm" wrote in message
eb.com...
When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar or
is there something more modern to use?

You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep.
Traditionally the flashing is held in place with small lead slugs.
Most people fold up a bit of lead sheet to make these. (They are only about
50mm long)

Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Don't have your lengths too long or it will buckle due to expansion, have
overlap joints.

"harryagain" wrote in
:


"bm" wrote in message
eb.com...
When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use
mortar or is there something more modern to use?

You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep.
Traditionally the flashing is held in place with small lead slugs.
Most people fold up a bit of lead sheet to make these. (They are only
about 50mm long)

Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Don't have your lengths too long or it will buckle due to expansion,
have overlap joints.



So - no mastic at the overlaps? By how much should they overlap. Sorry to
hijack thread but I have just called the bloke who did some work to come
back and seal some vertical overlaps.

So - no mastic at the overlaps? By how much should they overlap.
Sorry to hijack thread but I have just called the bloke who did some
work to come back and seal some vertical overlaps.

Lap for horizontal cover flasing should be at least 100mm.

I found http://slateroofers.org/downloads/le...hing_guide.pdf a good
guide for a complete numptie when I had the roof here done and then
tried my hand at a simplty bit of additional flashing (when the roofer
could not come back having fallen of a roof elsewhere).

I also commend silicon sealant over morar if you have a house which
moves about a bit with the seasons.
--
Robin
reply to address is (meant to be) valid

Sheesh my brain is rotting. Reposting in English:

So - no mastic at the overlaps? By how much should they overlap.
Sorry to hijack thread but I have just called the bloke who did some
work to come back and seal some vertical overlaps.

Lap for horizontal cover flashing should be at least 100mm.

I found http://slateroofers.org/downloads/le...hing_guide.pdf a
good guide for a complete numptie when I had the roof here done and
then tried my hand at a simple bit of additional flashing (when the
roofer could not come back having fallen off a roof elsewhere).

I also commend silicon sealant over mortar if you have a house which
moves about a bit with the seasons.


--
Robin
reply to address is (meant to be) valid

In article ,
Robin wrote:
Sheesh my brain is rotting. Reposting in English:

So - no mastic at the overlaps? By how much should they overlap.
Sorry to hijack thread but I have just called the bloke who did some
work to come back and seal some vertical overlaps.

Lap for horizontal cover flashing should be at least 100mm.

I found http://slateroofers.org/downloads/le...hing_guide.pdf a
good guide for a complete numptie when I had the roof here done and
then tried my hand at a simple bit of additional flashing (when the
roofer could not come back having fallen off a roof elsewhere).

I also commend silicon sealant over mortar if you have a house which
moves about a bit with the seasons.

Does your pointing fall out too?

--
*I don't believe in astrology. I am a Sagittarius and we're very skeptical.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.222...
"harryagain" wrote in
:


"bm" wrote in message
eb.com...
When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use
mortar or is there something more modern to use?

You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep.
Traditionally the flashing is held in place with small lead slugs.
Most people fold up a bit of lead sheet to make these. (They are only
about 50mm long)

Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Don't have your lengths too long or it will buckle due to expansion,
have overlap joints.



So - no mastic at the overlaps? By how much should they overlap. Sorry to
hijack thread but I have just called the bloke who did some work to come
back and seal some vertical overlaps.

In article ,
harryagain wrote:

"bm" wrote in message
eb.com...
When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar
or is there something more modern to use?

You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep.

50mm is 2" or 1" = 25.4mm to be more precise. Which do you mean?

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

"charles" wrote in message
...
In article ,
harryagain wrote:

"bm" wrote in message
eb.com...
When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar
or is there something more modern to use?

You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep.

50mm is 2" or 1" = 25.4mm to be more precise. Which do you mean?


25mm that should be.

In article ,
harryagain wrote:
You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep. Traditionally the flashing is
held in place with small lead slugs. Most people fold up a bit of lead
sheet to make these. (They are only about 50mm long)

Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Mortar is more usual. Even today.

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 15/10/2013 11:05, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
harryagain wrote:
You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep. Traditionally the flashing is
held in place with small lead slugs. Most people fold up a bit of lead
sheet to make these. (They are only about 50mm long)

Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Mortar is more usual. Even today.


Certainly more usual than silicon.

--
Rod

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
harryagain wrote:
You should dig out about 50mm/1" deep. Traditionally the flashing is
held in place with small lead slugs. Most people fold up a bit of lead
sheet to make these. (They are only about 50mm long)

Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Mortar is more usual. Even today.

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Interesting to read this. All of the lead flashing work where my
conservatory roof meets the house, was done by the *very* long established
village roofing business, and it is all done with some kind of silicone
mastic. I clearly remember them doing it for the conservatory contractor. It
has been in place for around 10 years now, and shows no outward signs of
deterioration at all.

If you put "lead flashing sealant" into Goggle it comes back with many many
hits - a typical one here f'rinstance

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourc...alant&tbm=shop

so that would suggest that it is just as common now, if not more so, than
traditional mortar solutions ?

Arfa

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Mastic was then used to close the seam.
Silcon nowadays.

Mortar is more usual. Even today.


Interesting to read this. All of the lead flashing work where my
conservatory roof meets the house, was done by the *very* long
established village roofing business, and it is all done with some kind
of silicone mastic. I clearly remember them doing it for the
conservatory contractor. It has been in place for around 10 years now,
and shows no outward signs of deterioration at all.

If you put "lead flashing sealant" into Goggle it comes back with many
many hits - a typical one here f'rinstance

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourc...alant&tbm=shop

so that would suggest that it is just as common now, if not more so,
than traditional mortar solutions ?

Perhaps there is also a better solution to lead as flashing - given that
too is a traditional method?

The correct mortar mix works just fine with properly made lead flashing.
That's not to say some special gunge won't do the job too - but I'll bet
it costs a lot more.

--
*I love cats...they taste just like chicken.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 01:24:43 +0100, bm wrote:

When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar
or is there something more modern to use?

Folded lead wedges to hold the flashing in place and mortar.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 15/10/2013 08:18, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 01:24:43 +0100, bm wrote:

When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar
or is there something more modern to use?

Folded lead wedges to hold the flashing in place and mortar.


Mortar with a hefty dose of pva I'd say. Tends to fall out otherwise

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
On 15/10/2013 08:18, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 01:24:43 +0100, bm wrote:

When you "dig-out" pointing to insert lead flashing, do you use mortar
or is there something more modern to use?

Folded lead wedges to hold the flashing in place and mortar.

Last couple of times I've done this (no, not the same place!) I've used
small lead wedges and then filled the gap with lead sealant stuff.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/d180/sd2350/p55908


No idea if it's just grey sealant or if it's really something special
but it's cheap enough and a whole lot less hassle than mortar IMO.

One strip has been several years and is ok so far...

Darren

No idea if it's just grey sealant or if it's really something special
but it's cheap enough and a whole lot less hassle than mortar IMO.

Place where I bought a box of LeadMate said that it was more flexible
than most other sealants in order to cope with the differential movement
of the lead and bricks/masonry and also designed not to stain lead.
That may be a load of ******** though.

--
Robin
reply to address is (meant to be) valid

On Tuesday, October 15, 2013 9:35:50 PM UTC+1, Robin wrote:
No idea if it's just grey sealant or if it's really something special

but it's cheap enough and a whole lot less hassle than mortar IMO.



Place where I bought a box of LeadMate said that it was more flexible

than most other sealants in order to cope with the differential movement

of the lead and bricks/masonry and also designed not to stain lead.

That may be a load of ******** though.


I read the list of "special characteristics". They are the same as the "special characteristics" of low modulus silicone, except for the coefficient of greyness ;-)
I think it is just grey low modulus silicone (25% flexibility). The amount you use, compared to say sealing a bath, makes it pretty durable.
(I'm sure we all know now, but low modulus means low force required to deform it, hence more flexible).
Simon.

Leadmate

Jim K