OK, I know the usual self-levelling compound isn't really
self-levelling. I have a porch floor that I need to raise the level by
30mm to meet a cill level at the front and 40mm at the back to meet the
hall floor level, so I want a shallow incline rather than actually level
(there used to be an internal door and cill where the difference in
levels occurs).

I'm thinking of Wickes Deep Base Levelling compound which it says is OK
for between 5 and 50mm. The instructions suggest mixing it slightly
drier the thicker the layer you're pouring, which would presumably make
it more 'positionable'?

I need to 'lose' 10mm over 1.8m, will it co-operate, or will it do what
I *don't* want, and level itself anyway? Better to fill it in a couple
of layers, loosing 5mm on each instead?

Originally I was thinking of a sand/cement screen but 30mm seems a bit
thin and would risk breaking up

Thoughts?

On 15/08/13 12:53, Andy Burns wrote:
OK, I know the usual self-levelling compound isn't really
self-levelling. I have a porch floor that I need to raise the level
by 30mm to meet a cill level at the front and 40mm at the back to meet
the hall floor level, so I want a shallow incline rather than actually
level (there used to be an internal door and cill where the difference
in levels occurs).

I'm thinking of Wickes Deep Base Levelling compound which it says is
OK for between 5 and 50mm. The instructions suggest mixing it
slightly drier the thicker the layer you're pouring, which would
presumably make it more 'positionable'?

I need to 'lose' 10mm over 1.8m, will it co-operate, or will it do
what I *don't* want, and level itself anyway? Better to fill it in a
couple of layers, loosing 5mm on each instead?

Originally I was thinking of a sand/cement screen but 30mm seems a bit
thin and would risk breaking up

Thoughts?
because I actually had a lot I used quick setting ardurit tile cement to
do similar.

if you build a frame to run a board over you can scrape it to a rough
level and float the rest out.

Then use a smoothing compound on top for a perfect finish or tile or or
carpet it.

It sets fast enough not to slump and you can mix it very 'stiff' anyway.

its sorta like car body filler, only goes off in water and has sand
rather than mica filler.

Its on my list of 'things that do more than it says on the tin (sack) ,
actually'

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On Thursday 15 August 2013 12:53 Andy Burns wrote in uk.d-i-y:

OK, I know the usual self-levelling compound isn't really
self-levelling. I have a porch floor that I need to raise the level by
30mm to meet a cill level at the front and 40mm at the back to meet the
hall floor level, so I want a shallow incline rather than actually level
(there used to be an internal door and cill where the difference in
levels occurs).

I'm thinking of Wickes Deep Base Levelling compound which it says is OK
for between 5 and 50mm. The instructions suggest mixing it slightly
drier the thicker the layer you're pouring, which would presumably make
it more 'positionable'?

I need to 'lose' 10mm over 1.8m, will it co-operate, or will it do what
I *don't* want, and level itself anyway? Better to fill it in a couple
of layers, loosing 5mm on each instead?

Originally I was thinking of a sand/cement screen but 30mm seems a bit
thin and would risk breaking up

Thoughts?

Are you going to tile this?

If so, it might be easier to lay level and get the tiler to ramp the tile
adhesive (in practice they would skim some adhesive over about 1m and form a
10mm ramp into this. You would not ntoice the change in level.

30mm is still a lot for SLC though with filler (eg granite chippings) some
can go this thick.

The other option, for 30mm, is to use an SBR modified sand/cement screed.

If you have 2 parallel walls to screw temporary levelling guides to (strips
of 1/2 x 1" wood) you could lay this pretty easily.


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Tim Watts wrote:

On Thursday 15 August 2013 12:53 Andy Burns wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I need to 'lose' 10mm over 1.8m, will it co-operate, or will it do what
I *don't* want, and level itself anyway?

Are you going to tile this?

No, not planning on it.

If so, it might be easier to lay level and get the tiler to ramp the tile
adhesive (in practice they would skim some adhesive over about 1m and form a
10mm ramp into this. You would not ntoice the change in level.

I've done that myself when tiling the kitchen floor, bridged a bump
between original and extension levels, as you say, not noticeable unless
you roll a marble over it.

30mm is still a lot for SLC though with filler (eg granite chippings) some
can go this thick.

I noticed many of the fillers wouldn't cope with more than 20mm, but the
Wickes one said it could, I was going to look at the Mapei ones (is that
what you used on the bungalow?)

The other option, for 30mm, is to use an SBR modified sand/cement screed.

If you have 2 parallel walls to screw temporary levelling guides to (strips
of 1/2 x 1" wood) you could lay this pretty easily.

Yes could manage that, I'll look into that as an option, thanks ...

On Thursday 15 August 2013 13:24 Andy Burns wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Tim Watts wrote:

On Thursday 15 August 2013 12:53 Andy Burns wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I need to 'lose' 10mm over 1.8m, will it co-operate, or will it do what
I *don't* want, and level itself anyway?

Are you going to tile this?

No, not planning on it.

If so, it might be easier to lay level and get the tiler to ramp the tile
adhesive (in practice they would skim some adhesive over about 1m and
form a 10mm ramp into this. You would not ntoice the change in level.

I've done that myself when tiling the kitchen floor, bridged a bump
between original and extension levels, as you say, not noticeable unless
you roll a marble over it.

30mm is still a lot for SLC though with filler (eg granite chippings)
some can go this thick.

I noticed many of the fillers wouldn't cope with more than 20mm, but the
Wickes one said it could, I was going to look at the Mapei ones (is that
what you used on the bungalow?)

No - F.Ball Stopgap 300 HD

That goes to 20 -r 25mm with filler IIRC - but nothing stops you laying
multiple pours.

The other option, for 30mm, is to use an SBR modified sand/cement screed.

If you have 2 parallel walls to screw temporary levelling guides to
(strips of 1/2 x 1" wood) you could lay this pretty easily.

Yes could manage that, I'll look into that as an option, thanks ...

Read this:

http://www.flowcrete.co.uk/media/150...sbr_system.pdf

It's what I worked from and it worked. Forget Isopol - all SBR is the same.

2 warnings:

1) SBR screed is much more fluid than screed mixed with the same volume of
water so you need to mix dryer than you think.

2) The stuff sticks to everything and is a ******* to get off when cured
(quite quick) (BTW this is good). Have some white spirit handy and wash your
float and tools immediately. You may need to scrub your float with wire wool
and spirit.

Oh - and a 3rd:

3) Get the level right - I had a lump and my SDS with a scutch comb chisel
barely touched it after a week. Sets like iron.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

Tim Watts wrote:

Read this:

http://www.flowcrete.co.uk/media/150...sbr_system.pdf

It's what I worked from and it worked. Forget Isopol - all SBR is the same.

2 warnings:

1) SBR screed is much more fluid than screed mixed with the same volume of
water so you need to mix dryer than you think.

2) The stuff sticks to everything and is a ******* to get off when cured
(quite quick) (BTW this is good). Have some white spirit handy and wash your
float and tools immediately. You may need to scrub your float with wire wool
and spirit.

Oh - and a 3rd:

3) Get the level right - I had a lump and my SDS with a scutch comb chisel
barely touched it after a week. Sets like iron.

Thanks, sounds good, will read later ...

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 15/08/13 12:53, Andy Burns wrote:

I want a shallow incline rather than actually level

because I actually had a lot I used quick setting ardurit tile cement to
do similar.

I've only got one old bag of tile cement left, but I think it'll be far
too old and too small to be any use ...

On 15/08/2013 14:00, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

Read this:

http://www.flowcrete.co.uk/media/150...sbr_system.pdf

It's what I worked from and it worked. Forget Isopol - all SBR is the
same.

2 warnings:

1) SBR screed is much more fluid than screed mixed with the same
volume of
water so you need to mix dryer than you think.

2) The stuff sticks to everything and is a ******* to get off when cured
(quite quick) (BTW this is good). Have some white spirit handy and
wash your
float and tools immediately. You may need to scrub your float with
wire wool
and spirit.

Oh - and a 3rd:

3) Get the level right - I had a lump and my SDS with a scutch comb
chisel
barely touched it after a week. Sets like iron.

Thanks, sounds good, will read later ...


For 30mm indoors with no damp problems I'd use pva. In some ways this is
preferable anyway because it combines well with mortar. SBR needs
constant stirring to keep it in the mix

Tim Watts wrote:

On Thursday 15 August 2013 12:53 Andy Burns wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I know the usual self-levelling compound isn't really
self-levelling. I have a porch floor that I need to raise the level
by 30mm to meet a cill level at the front and 40mm at the back to
meet the hall floor level

30mm is still a lot for SLC though with filler (eg granite chippings) some
can go this thick.

The other option, for 30mm, is to use an SBR modified sand/cement screed.

In the end, I went with the Wickes deep base SLC. It coped with the
depth well, I mixed three of those yellow builders tubs at a time each
with two 20kg bags, which poured about 15-20mm at a time, it really does
level without any persuasion, hard enough to walk on in just over an hour.

I ended up needing a 2-3mm top-up in places, didn't really expect it to
feather very well, but gave it a try anyway and it doesn't, so will
finish off with some latex tomorrow.