I am having FTTC connected in a couple of weeks time and want to set
up a new connection for my router that will do away with all the
unsightly surface wiring BT have installed over the years.

My current plan is for Openreach to install their modem adjacent to an
NTE5 in the hallway and connect this via a patch lead to a RJ45 socket
in an adjacent built-in cupboard. I am thinking of running CAT5E from
this socket, via the loft and another built-in cupboard, to another
socket, adjacent to my desk. I will connect my Billion 7800n router to
this.

I have found some basic network wiring info on the TLC site -
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...Networking.htm

I understand that the single run of CAT5E should be able to feed a
phone socket as well as the RJ45 outlet - if this is so which strands?
--
rbel

lid:
I understand that the single run of CAT5E should be able to feed a
phone socket as well as the RJ45 outlet - if this is so which strands?

You can buy adapters that make it easy, e.g.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RJ45-Plug-...-/360673569927

The adapters are going to look a bit clunkier than twin-socket wall-
plates, but speaking for myself I prefer a self-evident setup.

Bear in mind that Gigabit won't work on this link because it needs all
the pairs.

--
Mike Barnes

rbel wrote:

My current plan is for Openreach to install their modem adjacent to an
NTE5 in the hallway and connect this via a patch lead to a RJ45 socket
in an adjacent built-in cupboard.

If your ISP has paid for the option to relocate the NTE (by up to 30m I
think) why not have the NTE and modem in the cupboard (provided you can
get power into it)?

I understand that the single run of CAT5E should be able to feed a
phone socket as well as the RJ45 outlet - if this is so which strands?

If you are only using 10/100Mb ethernet, then pins 1,2,3&6 will be used,
you can use either of the other pairs for phone.

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 18:38:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

My current plan is for Openreach to install their modem adjacent to an
NTE5 in the hallway and connect this via a patch lead to a RJ45 socket
in an adjacent built-in cupboard.

If your ISP has paid for the option to relocate the NTE (by up to 30m I
think) why not have the NTE and modem in the cupboard (provided you can
get power into it)?

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in
the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension
from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be
in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket
that should help a bit.


I understand that the single run of CAT5E should be able to feed a
phone socket as well as the RJ45 outlet - if this is so which strands?

If you are only using 10/100Mb ethernet, then pins 1,2,3&6 will be used,
you can use either of the other pairs for phone.

Many thanks for this. So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.
--
rbel

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:33:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.
--
rbel

I really wouldn't put any electonic equipment in the such a cupboard.
For one thing, most common-or-garden domestic routers are rather prone
to overheating.

For another, they are rather vulnerable to electrical spikes, which
boiler circuits are rather apt to produce as the burners are lit
and/or extinguished.

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:02:04 +0100, rbel wrote:

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in
the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension
from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be
in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket
that should help a bit.
--
================================================== =======
Please always reply to ng as the email in this post's
header does not exist. Or use a contact address at:
http://www.macfh.co.uk/JavaJive/JavaJive.html
http://www.macfh.co.uk/Macfarlane/Macfarlane.html

I run my router of a UPS which should hide spikes. It stops it locking up
when we get brown outs.

In article ,
Java Jive wrote:
I really wouldn't put any electonic equipment in the such a cupboard.
For one thing, most common-or-garden domestic routers are rather prone
to overheating.

For another, they are rather vulnerable to electrical spikes, which
boiler circuits are rather apt to produce as the burners are lit
and/or extinguished.

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:02:04 +0100, rbel wrote:

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in
the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension
from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be
in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket
that should help a bit.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 22:16:51 +0100, Java Jive
wrote:

I really wouldn't put any electonic equipment in the such a cupboard.
For one thing, most common-or-garden domestic routers are rather prone
to overheating.

For another, they are rather vulnerable to electrical spikes, which
boiler circuits are rather apt to produce as the burners are lit
and/or extinguished.

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:02:04 +0100, rbel wrote:

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in
the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension
from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be
in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket
that should help a bit.

I take your point about overheating but the interior of the cupboard
is no warmer than the area outside it as it is ventilated, the boiler
is a modern unit and all the 'hot' pipework is all well insulated.

I had thought about the likelihood of spikes and was thinking of using
either a 2 gang MK filtered socket to feed power to the router and the
modem, or running a separate supply from a near at hand circuit in the
loft.
--
rbel

In article , Java Jive
scribeth thus
I really wouldn't put any electonic equipment in the such a cupboard.
For one thing, most common-or-garden domestic routers are rather prone
to overheating.

Indeed. As is a lot of equipment..


For another, they are rather vulnerable to electrical spikes, which
boiler circuits are rather apt to produce as the burners are lit
and/or extinguished.

You must have a very olde burner if its still putting splats across the
mains. Ours are as quiet as an electronically suppressed mouse;!...


On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:02:04 +0100, rbel wrote:

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in
the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension
from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be
in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket
that should help a bit.

--
Tony Sayer

On 02/08/2013 22:01, rbel wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:33:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.

Even if it was three wire, you would be better running just a a pair and
regenerating the bell wire at the far end if required (using a bell
capacitor or a microfilter (which includes one)).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 03 Aug 2013 12:37:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 02/08/2013 22:01, rbel wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:33:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.

Even if it was three wire, you would be better running just a a pair and
regenerating the bell wire at the far end if required (using a bell
capacitor or a microfilter (which includes one)).

Indeed, I disconnected the bell wire on my existing setup some years
ago following the advice on the site of a very good ADSL filter and
socket supplier (who now seems to have disappeared).
--
rbel

On 03/08/13 12:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/08/2013 22:01, rbel wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:33:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.

Even if it was three wire, you would be better running just a a pair
and regenerating the bell wire at the far end if required (using a
bell capacitor or a microfilter (which includes one)).


the correct thing is a 'master socket'

However strictly you should NOT have too many in parallel across the
line. In fact there should be only one, hence 'master socket'

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On 03/08/2013 14:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 03/08/13 12:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/08/2013 22:01, rbel wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:33:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.

Even if it was three wire, you would be better running just a a pair
and regenerating the bell wire at the far end if required (using a
bell capacitor or a microfilter (which includes one)).


the correct thing is a 'master socket'

The correct thing for this application is actually a "PABX Master" -
similar to the normal one, but it lacks the lightening suppressor and
the test resistor found in the full NTE5 style master.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/08/13 01:06, John Rumm wrote:
On 03/08/2013 14:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 03/08/13 12:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/08/2013 22:01, rbel wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:33:36 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

So I should connect 1,2,3&6 to the ethernet
socket and (eg) 7&8 to the phone socket - I was thinking of using
modular sockets.

yes e.g. your cat5 cable

wht/org = ethernet 1
org = ethernet 2
wht/grn = ethernet 3
grn = ethernet 6

wht/brn = phone 2
brn = phone 5

wht/blu = unused
blu = unused

that's omitting the bell wire, which is probably not worth bothering
with for most phones now.

Excellent. My phone is 2 wire so no bell connection.

Even if it was three wire, you would be better running just a a pair
and regenerating the bell wire at the far end if required (using a
bell capacitor or a microfilter (which includes one)).


the correct thing is a 'master socket'

The correct thing for this application is actually a "PABX Master" -
similar to the normal one, but it lacks the lightening suppressor

yeah you dont want em floating away!

and the test resistor found in the full NTE5 style master.


pretty sure mine have resistors



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On 02/08/2013 20:02, rbel wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 18:38:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

rbel wrote:

My current plan is for Openreach to install their modem adjacent to an
NTE5 in the hallway and connect this via a patch lead to a RJ45 socket
in an adjacent built-in cupboard.

If your ISP has paid for the option to relocate the NTE (by up to 30m I
think) why not have the NTE and modem in the cupboard (provided you can
get power into it)?

Having re-read the details of the offered Plusnet/BT installation in
the last hour I realised that it included provision for an extension
from the BT socket to their modem. As the connection was going to be
in the (well ventilated) boiler cupboard which has a spare 13A socket
that should help a bit.

Before you fit in a boiler cupboard try making some measurements of the
actual temperature in it first. Router tend to run hot anyway and unless
the temperature is seldom going to be above 25C then it is asking for
trouble.


--
Peter Crosland