I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at
a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 01/08/2013 00:53, John Rumm wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at
a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.



I've not actually run a test of how long regular bits last vs the Wera
bits vs cost, but I've found that assuming the ID work isn't
particularly demanding the regular bits last a fair amount of time.

By demanding I mean lots of driving straight long screws into timber
with no pilot holes. Stuff like going through pilot holes into wall
plugs is no bother.

I've found you can hear when a bit is going to go soon - the sound
changes to a harsher sound. Note I've sometimes had bitholders go too -
so worth having some spares of these. (I've not used the high strength
bit holders.)

On 01/08/2013 08:02, Piers wrote:
On 01/08/2013 00:53, John Rumm wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at
a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.



I've not actually run a test of how long regular bits last vs the Wera
bits vs cost, but I've found that assuming the ID work isn't
particularly demanding the regular bits last a fair amount of time.

+1

A cheapo Toolsatan No2PZ bit will easily last for a thousand decking screws.


By demanding I mean lots of driving straight long screws into timber
with no pilot holes. Stuff like going through pilot holes into wall
plugs is no bother.

I've found you can hear when a bit is going to go soon - the sound
changes to a harsher sound. Note I've sometimes had bitholders go too -
so worth having some spares of these. (I've not used the high strength
bit holders.)

I've also had cheapo bit holders shatter.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Why pilot holes?

So 1970's :-)

Screws like Turbogold et al don't need them.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Why pilot holes?

So 1970's :-)

Screws like Turbogold et al don't need them.

Fine if you don't want to get them out again, but very difficult to remove.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

Why does an impact driver not shake ones hands to bits as you use it?

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
o.uk...
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down to
avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or worthwhile)
is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a bit steep for
3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a box of screws ...
will I regret not buying them?

On 01/08/2013 08:52, charles wrote:
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Why pilot holes?

So 1970's :-)

Screws like Turbogold et al don't need them.

Fine if you don't want to get them out again, but very difficult to remove.


I've found they come out just fine with the impact driver.

The Medway Handyman wrote:

On 01/08/2013 08:02, Piers wrote:
On 01/08/2013 00:53, John Rumm wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:

will I regret not buying them?

Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at
a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.

assuming the ID work isn't
particularly demanding the regular bits last a fair amount of time.

A cheapo Toolsatan No2PZ bit will easily last for a thousand decking screws.

Cheers chaps, I've not got *that* many to do, and with pilot holes
shouldn't be testing anything to destruction ...

On 01/08/2013 08:53, Brian Gaff wrote:
Why does an impact driver not shake ones hands to bits as you use it?

Brian


Inertia.

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 12:53:09 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:

I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using

drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down

to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or

worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a

bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a

box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?



Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at

a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.


+1 with or without pilot holes

ISTR small print on torsion bits also says "must use matching "torsion bit" holder" at £XX pounds extra.... kerching!!

Jim K

On 01/08/2013 08:02, Piers wrote:
On 01/08/2013 00:53, John Rumm wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at
a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.



I've not actually run a test of how long regular bits last vs the Wera
bits vs cost, but I've found that assuming the ID work isn't
particularly demanding the regular bits last a fair amount of time.

By demanding I mean lots of driving straight long screws into timber
with no pilot holes. Stuff like going through pilot holes into wall
plugs is no bother.

I've found you can hear when a bit is going to go soon - the sound
changes to a harsher sound. Note I've sometimes had bitholders go too -
so worth having some spares of these. (I've not used the high strength
bit holders.)

I find that very ordinary mild steel ones don't last well, but anything
that is a tad harder (and usually TiN coated) seems to last well enough.
I bought a box of 15 from SF own brand ones some time back, and they
seem to be lasting well.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 01/08/2013 08:53, Brian Gaff wrote:

Why does an impact driver not shake ones hands to bits as you use it?

Because the impact is angular and not linear - so it translates to a
torque "kick" rather than a more traditional Cartesian axis vibration,
and the inertia difference between the bit and the whole machine is
huge, so you hardly feel it on the machine.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 01/08/2013 11:31, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/08/2013 08:02, Piers wrote:
On 01/08/2013 00:53, John Rumm wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens
down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17
seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Its worth using decent bits in an ID - however the Wiha or Vera style at
a couple of quid a pop from TS / SF etc are usually fine.



I've not actually run a test of how long regular bits last vs the Wera
bits vs cost, but I've found that assuming the ID work isn't
particularly demanding the regular bits last a fair amount of time.

By demanding I mean lots of driving straight long screws into timber
with no pilot holes. Stuff like going through pilot holes into wall
plugs is no bother.

I've found you can hear when a bit is going to go soon - the sound
changes to a harsher sound. Note I've sometimes had bitholders go too -
so worth having some spares of these. (I've not used the high strength
bit holders.)

I find that very ordinary mild steel ones don't last well, but anything
that is a tad harder (and usually TiN coated) seems to last well enough.
I bought a box of 15 from SF own brand ones some time back, and they
seem to be lasting well.


I have a 25 pack of De Walt PZ2s for regular stuff, and they're OK, but
upgrade to Weras for the hard stuff (unless I can't be bothered to find
one - normally cos I've only got a few screws to do). For PZ3s I tend
to use the Weras exclusively, cos when I need a PZ3 it's going to need a
fair amount of whacking.

I don't use the bits that come with el cheapo drill/bit sets in my
impact driver, because they seem to be made of cheese.

In article ,
Piers wrote:
Fine if you don't want to get them out again, but very difficult to remove.


I've found they come out just fine with the impact driver.

Other thing I found an impact driver amazing at was removing slotted steel
ordinary steel screws from door hinges - that had been there for half a
century plus. And ordinary screwdriver (or more likely me) would have
chewed up several of the heads.

--
*You are validating my inherent mistrust of strangers

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 01/08/2013 11:31, John Rumm wrote:

I find that very ordinary mild steel ones don't last well, but anything
that is a tad harder (and usually TiN coated) seems to last well enough.
I bought a box of 15 from SF own brand ones some time back, and they
seem to be lasting well.


I think the wera diamond ones break easily using my one+ impact driver.
I started using some cheap toolstation dewaltz ones and they last about
as long, because I don't look after them well and lose the damn things.

I have just bought a wera impaktor PZ2 to try.

On 01/08/2013 14:06, dennis@home wrote:
On 01/08/2013 11:31, John Rumm wrote:

I find that very ordinary mild steel ones don't last well, but anything
that is a tad harder (and usually TiN coated) seems to last well enough.
I bought a box of 15 from SF own brand ones some time back, and they
seem to be lasting well.


I think the wera diamond ones break easily using my one+ impact driver.
I started using some cheap toolstation dewaltz ones and they last about
as long, because I don't look after them well and lose the damn things.

I have just bought a wera impaktor PZ2 to try.

There seems to be a middle ground where you want something hard enough
not to lose shape and have the corners round off, while not being so
hard they shatter as soon as you look at them the wrong way. Keeping the
bit well engaged in the screw, and not letting it rattle about too much
helps as well.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 01/08/2013 08:52, charles wrote:
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 31/07/2013 22:35, Andy Burns wrote:
I haven't really used my impact driver in anger yet, likely to be using
drill-driver for pilot holes and impact-driver for screwing battens down
to avoid ****ing about swapping bits/holders ... how necessary (or
worthwhile) is it getting those thin-necked "torsion" bits, £17 seemed a
bit steep for 3x double ended ones in Wickes while I was picking up a
box of screws ... will I regret not buying them?

Why pilot holes?

So 1970's :-)

Screws like Turbogold et al don't need them.

Fine if you don't want to get them out again, but very difficult to remove.

I don't want them to come out :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Why pilot holes? So 1970's :-)
Screws like Turbogold et al don't need them.

Well, I drilled them anyway. Old felt removed, 32m of battening fixed to
shed roof, barge boards raised to match, just waiting for weather to
decide what it's going to do before fixing onduline sheets.

The Wickes Ultragold screws use a pozisquare and came with a 'free' bit,
which finished the job unharmed, the bit holds the screws very well.