My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I believe).

I'll let the photo's do the talking ...

http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm

How should I go about fixing this?

Thanks

On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of* this rotten door frame and sill".

On 14/04/2013 18:10, Tom Pickles wrote:
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in
need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach
this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I
believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of*
this rotten door frame and sill".



The parts you can't see are probably just as rotten. Unless you love the
look of the thing, have it replaced with uvpc. £400 well spent in my view

On 14/04/2013 17:38, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I believe).

I'll let the photo's do the talking ...

http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm

How should I go about fixing this?

Thanks


If you don't want to replace it entirely, you could chop out the rotten
section and replace with a new hardwood section.

Bear in mind tho' it may well be fastened in some way to the brickwork,
and you then would have to do the same with the new piece.

On 14/04/2013 18:10, Tom Pickles wrote:
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of* this rotten door frame and sill".


Tom, I think you have pretty much taken a photo of my door. I am
following the advice in this posting

http://festoolownersgroup.com/home-i...-how-i-did-it/

Having obtained a new sill from a local builders merchant. I don't
think the door material is relevant (as the door is not rotten) but I
have water leaking round the DG unit in the door and cant see how to
remove the DG unit to re seal it.

The only slight problem I had was that the sill was attached to the door
posts by screws inserted from below (ie before the door was installed),
on one side this was no problem as the sill was sufficiently rotten, the
other side required a bit of chiselling to split the wood and so remove
the remains of the sill from the door post.

--
Chris

On 14/04/13 17:38, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I believe).

I'll let the photo's do the talking ...

http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm

How should I go about fixing this?

Thanks

1., remove anything that you can remove with a wire brush.

2/. get some stablising rot style resin and paint that in anything punky
that's left

3/. let that dry - wait till better weather maybe

4/. fill thehole with car body filler - 2 pack stuff with separate catalyst

5/ when tht goes rubbery use a breadknife to remove the bulk of the surplus.

6/. when it goes hard use sanding block to fair it in to existing wood.

7/. prime and paint.

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On 14/04/13 18:27, stuart noble wrote:
On 14/04/2013 18:10, Tom Pickles wrote:
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in
need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach
this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I
believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of*
this rotten door frame and sill".



The parts you can't see are probably just as rotten. Unless you love
the look of the thing, have it replaced with uvpc. £400 well spent in
my view
Or 20 quid to repair with car body filler.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On 14/04/2013 17:38, Tom Pickles wrote:

My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need
of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this
problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I
believe).

I'll let the photo's do the talking ...

http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm

How should I go about fixing this?


Chop out offending section and an inch more (multimaster style tools are
good here[1])

I would usually cut across the frame at a 45 degree angle (i.e. to make
a scarf joint). Cut new (hard)wood section to fit, Counter drill a
little way into the new bit, then drill through with a smaller drill.
Add liberal quantity of waterproof adhesive (epoxy if the gap is not
perfect) and screw through the new bit into the existing. Add a wood
plug to cover the screw or fill with a two part wood filler or car body
filler. Once in and set, fill (with two part filler again), shape and
sand to fit before repainting.

[1] http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...illating_tools

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

James Read wrote:

http://jamesanswersyou.blogspam.com/...ter-blogs.html

Perhaps you should put a warning that your blog will appear as empty
pages to anyone sensible enough to use adblock or ghostery?

On 14/04/2013 21:11, Andy Burns wrote:
James Read wrote:

http://jamesanswersyou.blogspam.com/...ter-blogs.html

Perhaps you should put a warning that your blog will appear as empty
pages to anyone sensible enough to use adblock or ghostery?


And I ain't switching it off for him.

--
Rod

On 14/04/2013 19:47, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 14/04/13 18:27, stuart noble wrote:
On 14/04/2013 18:10, Tom Pickles wrote:
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in
need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach
this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I
believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of*
this rotten door frame and sill".



The parts you can't see are probably just as rotten. Unless you love
the look of the thing, have it replaced with uvpc. £400 well spent in
my view
Or 20 quid to repair with car body filler.



You're preaching to the converted here. The front of my house is all
repaired Victorian sashes. The back of the house is all new pvc.

On 15/04/13 09:48, stuart noble wrote:
On 14/04/2013 19:47, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 14/04/13 18:27, stuart noble wrote:
On 14/04/2013 18:10, Tom Pickles wrote:
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:
My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in
need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach
this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I
believe).



I'll let the photo's do the talking ...



http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm



How should I go about fixing this?



Thanks

The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of*
this rotten door frame and sill".



The parts you can't see are probably just as rotten. Unless you love
the look of the thing, have it replaced with uvpc. £400 well spent in
my view
Or 20 quid to repair with car body filler.



You're preaching to the converted here. The front of my house is all
repaired Victorian sashes. The back of the house is all new pvc.
Indeed . The cost benefit of a complicated carpentry repair verus simple
replacement is rubbish. either patch the rotten bit by the quickest
simplest method, which is body filler - and that wont rot, either - or
replace the whole shebang.

Its not worth dong a 'proper' repair job on wood unless its got some
value over and above the raw cost of replacing it. Listed building or
fine joinery and the like.

Looking at the OPs p[hoto says to me 'man on a limited budget, and
probably with limited carpentry skills or he would have fixed this
already';

Hence car body filler which I have used on a similar sort of property in
a similar stare to effect a repair that was still perfectly ok when I
left the (rented) property.



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On 14/04/2013 20:42, James Read wrote:

Would this guide be any use?

Probably not, its an Amazon affiliate link to an American publication
under the fine homebuilding label. While some of the Taunton press stuff
is very good, it is very USA centric when it comes to house building
techniques, and less useful here.

Since you have no history of posting here one can only assume it was a
lame attempt at spamming...

Original title, for any that are interested:
Windows and Doors: Installing, Replacing, Reparing (For Pros, by Pros)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1561588083

The review don't inspire confidence :

"I wanted to learn something about replacement windows. The coverage in
the book was a lot skimpier than I would get from any replacement window
supplier's website. "

"This book is very American, was interested in fitting own windows in UK
Brick house not USA Wooden house...my fault "

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Monday, April 15, 2013 10:35:47 AM UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 15/04/13 09:48, stuart noble wrote:

On 14/04/2013 19:47, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 14/04/13 18:27, stuart noble wrote:

On 14/04/2013 18:10, Tom Pickles wrote:

On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:38:55 PM UTC+1, Tom Pickles wrote:

My back door frame and part of the step/sill is rotten and is in

need of fixing, but I'm no chippy and I've no idea how to approach

this problem. The door itself is steel skin over a wooden frame (I

believe).







I'll let the photo's do the talking ...







http://imgur.com/a/NvUcm







How should I go about fixing this?







Thanks



The title should have been "How should I approach replacing *part of*

this rotten door frame and sill".







The parts you can't see are probably just as rotten. Unless you love

the look of the thing, have it replaced with uvpc. £400 well spent in

my view

Or 20 quid to repair with car body filler.







You're preaching to the converted here. The front of my house is all

repaired Victorian sashes. The back of the house is all new pvc.

Indeed . The cost benefit of a complicated carpentry repair verus simple

replacement is rubbish. either patch the rotten bit by the quickest

simplest method, which is body filler - and that wont rot, either - or

replace the whole shebang.



Its not worth dong a 'proper' repair job on wood unless its got some

value over and above the raw cost of replacing it. Listed building or

fine joinery and the like.



Looking at the OPs p[hoto says to me 'man on a limited budget, and

probably with limited carpentry skills or he would have fixed this

already';



Hence car body filler which I have used on a similar sort of property in

a similar stare to effect a repair that was still perfectly ok when I

left the (rented) property.

OP here. Your assumptions are indeed correct. I'm not very good at carpentry and don't want to have to pay 400 quid or have the hassle of finding a decent installer to fit a new uPVC door. I'll give the car body filler a go as it's worth a punt for 20 quid.

Would you use car body filler to repair the softwood door jamb as well as the hardwood step?

Thanks to all for their input.

On 15/04/2013 15:43, Tom Pickles wrote:


OP here. Your assumptions are indeed correct. I'm not very good at carpentry and don't want to have to pay 400 quid or have the hassle of finding a decent installer to fit a new uPVC door. I'll give the car body filler a go as it's worth a punt for 20 quid.
Would you use car body filler to repair the softwood door jamb as well as the hardwood step?

Thanks to all for their input.


If you are going down that road I would definitely consider treating the
ends of the wood (after you have removed as much rot as you can) with
something similar to this before you start filling.

http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber =322937&c_2=2%7Ccat_16849219%7CExterior+Woodcare%7 C14114904&c_1=1%7Ccategory_root%7CDecorating%7C168 49219&c_3=3%7Ccat_14114904%7CExterior+Wood+Treatme nt%7C14114919&_$ja=cgid:4912846832%7Ctsid:13699%7C cid:75371552%7Clid:46016240552%7Cnw:search%7Ccrid: 16288432712

--
Chris

OP here. Your assumptions are indeed correct. I'm not very good at
carpentry and don't want to have to pay 400 quid or have the hassle
of finding a decent installer to fit a new uPVC door. I'll give the
car body filler a go as it's worth a punt for 20 quid.

Would you use car body filler to repair the softwood door jamb as
well as the hardwood step?

Thanks to all for their input.


Ok, if you're going that route, first find a cheap supplier for the body
filler. E.g. you won't get much for £20 in Halfords.
You can create straight lines and flat surfaces with bits of
ply/hardboard as long as you remember to smear with vaseline to act as a
release agent.
The suggestion (John Rumm?) of setting new wood into 2 part filler is a
good one because a0 it will probably cost less and b) your carpentry
skills can be non-existent. This is more like sculpture :-)

On 15/04/13 15:43, Tom Pickles wrote:

OP here. Your assumptions are indeed correct. I'm not very good at carpentry and don't want to have to pay 400 quid or have the hassle of finding a decent installer to fit a new uPVC door. I'll give the car body filler a go as it's worth a punt for 20 quid.

Would you use car body filler to repair the softwood door jamb as well as the hardwood step?

anything thats painted but with the following caveats

- you must get the wood dry (hair drier or wait for a series of fine days)
- you must remove anything that's rotten
- putting screws or nails in will give it something to bond to.
- you can use any lumps of anything to bulk it out...stones gravel or
blocks of wood
- you can mould it using polythene sheet and a bit of wood nailed down
to keep it there while it sets




Thanks to all for their input.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

On 15/04/2013 18:04, stuart noble wrote:

OP here. Your assumptions are indeed correct. I'm not very good at
carpentry and don't want to have to pay 400 quid or have the hassle
of finding a decent installer to fit a new uPVC door. I'll give the
car body filler a go as it's worth a punt for 20 quid.

Would you use car body filler to repair the softwood door jamb as
well as the hardwood step?

Thanks to all for their input.


Ok, if you're going that route, first find a cheap supplier for the body
filler. E.g. you won't get much for £20 in Halfords.
You can create straight lines and flat surfaces with bits of
ply/hardboard as long as you remember to smear with vaseline to act as a
release agent.
The suggestion (John Rumm?) of setting new wood into 2 part filler is a
good one because a0 it will probably cost less and b) your carpentry
skills can be non-existent. This is more like sculpture :-)

Something like:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Wood...t+500ml/p55454

is reasonably cheap (compared to halfords). You can often get a good
deal on ebay for the larger tins of Ronseal's equivalent.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/