Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.

Tia
Jim K

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss
work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as
necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get it
done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.

White gloss paint now goes yellow very quickly; as I found out to my cost.

On 28/02/2013 14:39, Jim K wrote:
Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky
gloss work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs
as necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to
get it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few
years.

Tia Jim K


Think wood hardener. After a coat of that, any paint goes on like a
dream and tends to stay there

On 28/02/2013 14:39, Jim K wrote:
Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.

Tia
Jim K


One major advantage of the low VOC paints is that many can be happily
over-painted after a couple of hours. So you can prime, double-undercoat
and top-coat in one day - depending on area involved, of course.

Depending on exactly where, and what the substrate is like, I sometimes
choose to roller low VOC paint to a nice, gentle orange-peel effect. It
can look better than brushmarks. But not always.

--
Rod

On 28/02/2013 17:23, polygonum wrote:
On 28/02/2013 14:39, Jim K wrote:
Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss
work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as
necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get
it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.

Tia
Jim K


One major advantage of the low VOC paints is that many can be happily
over-painted after a couple of hours. So you can prime, double-undercoat
and top-coat in one day - depending on area involved, of course.

Are you confusing water-based with low VOC? The low VOC paints I have
used have taken an age to dry and have never fully hardened. Water-based
on the other hand do dry pretty quickly.

On 28/02/2013 17:38, Andrew May wrote:
On 28/02/2013 17:23, polygonum wrote:
On 28/02/2013 14:39, Jim K wrote:
Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss
work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as
necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get
it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.

Tia
Jim K


One major advantage of the low VOC paints is that many can be happily
over-painted after a couple of hours. So you can prime, double-undercoat
and top-coat in one day - depending on area involved, of course.

Are you confusing water-based with low VOC? The low VOC paints I have
used have taken an age to dry and have never fully hardened. Water-based
on the other hand do dry pretty quickly.

You are right. I unthinkingly assumed that was what OP would have been
posting about. Let us await his response!

--
Rod

On Feb 28, 6:41*pm, polygonum wrote:
On 28/02/2013 17:38, Andrew May wrote:



On 28/02/2013 17:23, polygonum wrote:
On 28/02/2013 14:39, Jim K wrote:
Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss
work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as
necess then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get
it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years..

Tia
Jim K

One major advantage of the low VOC paints is that many can be happily
over-painted after a couple of hours. So you can prime, double-undercoat
and top-coat in one day - depending on area involved, of course.

Are you confusing water-based with low VOC? The low VOC paints I have
used have taken an age to dry and have never fully hardened. Water-based
on the other hand do dry pretty quickly.

You are right. I unthinkingly assumed that was what OP would have been
posting about. Let us await his response!

--
Rod

don't blame me for your misunderstandings ;)

Jim K

In article ,
Jim K wrote:

Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss work
on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.

Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as necess
then ?

Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.

Good question (I'm sure many of us are thinking the same thing, since
it's "that time of year" and we're also having a longer dry spell than
we had throughout 2012) .... anyway:

I was thinking of using Dulix Weathershield this year - UC and then
topcoat. This, for me, would be a massive leap in expense as well as
"technology". I never 'eard o' them there VOCs whatever you called 'em.

One happy thought: once I've done the bloody eaves again, I'll never
have to do them again. Ever :-)

John