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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Vacuum fluorescent display.
The old car has a green vacuum fluorescent display for the clock and OBC.
On a cold and damp day it tends to show all the segments until it warms up then comes good. The obvious thing would be to simply fit a spare - I have a couple - but my late car includes a dimming function for when the lights are on - the earlier units, and my spares, not. And it is uncomfortably bright at night without the dimming function. I've checked for dry solder joints - but some of it is thick film construction, which I don't really understand. Any ideas? -- *It's lonely at the top, but you eat better. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#2
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Vacuum fluorescent display.
In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes: The old car has a green vacuum fluorescent display for the clock and OBC. On a cold and damp day it tends to show all the segments until it warms up then comes good. The obvious thing would be to simply fit a spare - I have a couple - but my late car includes a dimming function for when the lights are on - the earlier units, and my spares, not. And it is uncomfortably bright at night without the dimming function. I've checked for dry solder joints - but some of it is thick film construction, which I don't really understand. Any ideas? I would guess damp/condensation, causing leakage to the grid connections to the tube (and/or the anode plates if it's a multiplexed display with multiple anode plates). -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#3
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Vacuum fluorescent display.
On 18/01/13 12:15, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes: The old car has a green vacuum fluorescent display for the clock and OBC. On a cold and damp day it tends to show all the segments until it warms up then comes good. The obvious thing would be to simply fit a spare - I have a couple - but my late car includes a dimming function for when the lights are on - the earlier units, and my spares, not. And it is uncomfortably bright at night without the dimming function. I've checked for dry solder joints - but some of it is thick film construction, which I don't really understand. Any ideas? I would guess damp/condensation, causing leakage to the grid connections to the tube (and/or the anode plates if it's a multiplexed display with multiple anode plates). That is a cogent thought, in which case washing with alcohol and spraying with a spirit based lacquer might sort it. -- Ineptocracy (in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers. |
#5
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Vacuum fluorescent display.
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes: On 18/01/13 12:15, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In article , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes: The old car has a green vacuum fluorescent display for the clock and OBC. On a cold and damp day it tends to show all the segments until it warms up then comes good. The obvious thing would be to simply fit a spare - I have a couple - but my late car includes a dimming function for when the lights are on - the earlier units, and my spares, not. And it is uncomfortably bright at night without the dimming function. I've checked for dry solder joints - but some of it is thick film construction, which I don't really understand. Any ideas? I would guess damp/condensation, causing leakage to the grid connections to the tube (and/or the anode plates if it's a multiplexed display with multiple anode plates). That is a cogent thought, in which case washing with alcohol and spraying with a spirit based lacquer might sort it. You can buy conformal coating sprays for this purpose. Obviously, need to make sure it's completely dry before applying. If the car interior has got excessively wet, then driving with the heater on full blast and some ventilation might fix it, if it dries out the moisture inside the car. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Vacuum fluorescent display.
In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote: I would guess damp/condensation, causing leakage to the grid connections to the tube (and/or the anode plates if it's a multiplexed display with multiple anode plates). That is a cogent thought, in which case washing with alcohol and spraying with a spirit based lacquer might sort it. You can buy conformal coating sprays for this purpose. Obviously, need to make sure it's completely dry before applying. If the car interior has got excessively wet, then driving with the heater on full blast and some ventilation might fix it, if it dries out the moisture inside the car. Thanks for the replies. The car lives outside all year long and isn't used every day. However, it didn't do this when newer. Perhaps I'll try giving it all a good clean and dry it out then use a coating. -- *Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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