Unless fitting a "kit" of lights & tranny it appears Part P applies to
SELV under wall cupboard lighting in a kitchen?

If so, what are the rules & regs on how to do it "safely"?

The only difference between a kit and a homebrew version (of seperate
lights and tranny) appears to be the spec of the wiring linking it all
up and the means of connecting the wiring together?

My homebrew would be - SELV side wired in 1.0mm2 heat resistant 3
core flex (with unused earth trimmed back) clipped to underside of
units as necessary, choc box connectors as required fixed to underside
of units also, taken back to SELV side of tranny; LV (240) side of
tranny wired to existing under unit supply (from outgoing tube light).

Comments anyone?

Cheers
Jim K

On Friday, November 2, 2012 2:37:43 PM UTC, Jim K wrote:

Unless fitting a "kit" of lights & tranny it appears Part P applies to
SELV under wall cupboard lighting in a kitchen?
If so, what are the rules & regs on how to do it "safely"?
The only difference between a kit and a homebrew version (of seperate
lights and tranny) appears to be the spec of the wiring linking it all
up and the means of connecting the wiring together?
My homebrew would be - SELV side wired in 1.0mm2 heat resistant 3
core flex (with unused earth trimmed back) clipped to underside of
units as necessary, choc box connectors as required fixed to underside
of units also, taken back to SELV side of tranny; LV (240) side of
tranny wired to existing under unit supply (from outgoing tube light).
Comments anyone?
Cheers
Jim K

Its a first, someone cares.


NT

On 02/11/2012 14:37, Jim K wrote:
Unless fitting a "kit" of lights & tranny it appears Part P applies to
SELV under wall cupboard lighting in a kitchen?

It applies to any SELV installation of lights that is not assembled from
a kit IIRC.

If so, what are the rules & regs on how to do it "safely"?

The only difference between a kit and a homebrew version (of seperate
lights and tranny) appears to be the spec of the wiring linking it all
up and the means of connecting the wiring together?

My homebrew would be - SELV side wired in 1.0mm2 heat resistant 3
core flex (with unused earth trimmed back) clipped to underside of
units as necessary, choc box connectors as required fixed to underside
of units also, taken back to SELV side of tranny; LV (240) side of
tranny wired to existing under unit supply (from outgoing tube light).

Comments anyone?

1mm^2 T&E is probably easier than flex. If you use one lamp per cable
then you will have ample capacity and minimal voltage drop (you have not
said what technology lights).

Connections need to be enclosed in an enclosure of some form. Each lamp
run in star configuration to a junction box and then a connection to the
xformer from there usually works.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Nov 2, 8:50*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/11/2012 14:37, Jim K wrote:

Unless fitting a "kit" of lights & tranny it appears Part P applies to
SELV under wall cupboard lighting in a kitchen?

It applies to any SELV installation of lights that is not assembled from
a kit IIRC.

If so, what are the rules & regs on how to do it "safely"?

The only difference between a kit and a homebrew version (of seperate
lights and tranny) appears to be the spec of the wiring linking it all
up and the means of connecting the wiring together?

My homebrew would be - SELV side wired in 1.0mm2 *heat resistant 3
core flex (with unused earth trimmed back) clipped to underside of
units as necessary, choc box connectors as required fixed to underside
of units also, taken back to SELV side of tranny; LV (240) side of
tranny wired to existing under unit supply (from outgoing tube light).

Comments anyone?

1mm^2 T&E is probably easier than flex. If you use one lamp per cable
then you will have ample capacity and minimal voltage drop (you have not
said what technology lights).

oops! - old plain old 12v 20w halogens (surface mounted)

was pondering whether I could daisy chain in pairs - to cut down on
the ELV wiring runs?

I already have a reel of 1mm2 3 core flex so will use that ;)

Connections need to be enclosed in an enclosure of some form.

Choc boxes ok?

Each lamp
run in star configuration to a junction box and then a connection to the
xformer from there usually works.

Yup makes sense

Cheers
Jim K

In article ,
Jim K writes:
Unless fitting a "kit" of lights & tranny it appears Part P applies to
SELV under wall cupboard lighting in a kitchen?

If so, what are the rules & regs on how to do it "safely"?

The only difference between a kit and a homebrew version (of seperate
lights and tranny) appears to be the spec of the wiring linking it all
up and the means of connecting the wiring together?

The kits seem to include LV connectors which are designed to burn
out within 2 years (or as little as 2 months in the case of Ikea).
Several times, I've ended up cutting off the connectors and using
crimps or some other long term high current capable connection.

My homebrew would be - SELV side wired in 1.0mm2 heat resistant 3
core flex (with unused earth trimmed back) clipped to underside of
units as necessary, choc box connectors as required fixed to underside
of units also, taken back to SELV side of tranny; LV (240) side of
tranny wired to existing under unit supply (from outgoing tube light).

I would not use halogens for under-cupboard lighting nowadays.

Also bear in mind that heat from under-cupboard lighting, particularly
inefficient filament lights, may prevent you keeping things like bread
in the cupboards as it will very quickly go moldy at slightly elevated
temperatures.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Friday, November 2, 2012 8:59:39 PM UTC, Jim K wrote:
On Nov 2, 8:50 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/11/2012 14:37, Jim K wrote:

under cupboard SELV lights

oops! - old plain old 12v 20w halogens (surface mounted)
was pondering whether I could daisy chain in pairs - to cut down on
the ELV wiring runs?

Yes. You could run the flex in a ring to much improve voltage drop. Each 20w light uses 1.66A

NT

On 02/11/2012 20:59, Jim K wrote:
On Nov 2, 8:50 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 02/11/2012 14:37, Jim K wrote:

Unless fitting a "kit" of lights & tranny it appears Part P applies to
SELV under wall cupboard lighting in a kitchen?

It applies to any SELV installation of lights that is not assembled from
a kit IIRC.

If so, what are the rules & regs on how to do it "safely"?

The only difference between a kit and a homebrew version (of seperate
lights and tranny) appears to be the spec of the wiring linking it all
up and the means of connecting the wiring together?

My homebrew would be - SELV side wired in 1.0mm2 heat resistant 3
core flex (with unused earth trimmed back) clipped to underside of
units as necessary, choc box connectors as required fixed to underside
of units also, taken back to SELV side of tranny; LV (240) side of
tranny wired to existing under unit supply (from outgoing tube light).

Comments anyone?

1mm^2 T&E is probably easier than flex. If you use one lamp per cable
then you will have ample capacity and minimal voltage drop (you have not
said what technology lights).

oops! - old plain old 12v 20w halogens (surface mounted)

was pondering whether I could daisy chain in pairs - to cut down on
the ELV wiring runs?

with 20w two per run would be fine...

I already have a reel of 1mm2 3 core flex so will use that ;)

Connections need to be enclosed in an enclosure of some form.

Choc boxes ok?

Yup.

Each lamp
run in star configuration to a junction box and then a connection to the
xformer from there usually works.

Yup makes sense



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm writes:
On 02/11/2012 20:59, Jim K wrote:

Choc boxes ok?

Yup.

I suggest you crimp bootlace ferrules onto the flex, or use
choc boxes with leaf protection springs, to make a good
connection to all the strands. When making the connections,
imagine it's for a mains appliance of 20 times the power rating.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]