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It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a 30A circuit. I can't help thinking that although it may exceed 13A, it only does so for at most a minute at a time, with low duty cycle, so it should work ine in practice. How true or unwise is that?


NT
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On 25 Oct, 16:57, "brass monkey" wrote:
"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message

...

On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:40:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a 30A
circuit. I can't help thinking that although it may exceed 13A, it only
does so for at most a minute at a time, with low duty cycle, so it should
work ine in practice. How true or unwise is that?


Deep ends.
Try it and see on a low setting - it might cost you a 13A fuse, but be
adventurous.


http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/...-specificprodu...

or

http://tinyurl.com/dxk2dfm


PMSL!


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On Thursday, October 25, 2012 5:38:52 PM UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
meow2222 submitted this idea :


It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a 30A
circuit. I can't help thinking that although it may exceed 13A, it only does
so for at most a minute at a time, with low duty cycle, so it should work ine
in practice. How true or unwise is that?


NT


My welder, not an Aldi one, runs fine on a 13 amp plug. The 13a
cartridge is backed up via 16amp MCB and the MCB very rarely trips at
switch on, due to initial surge. Once on it runs fine. The DB is next
to my welding bench, so handy to reset the MCB.


Is it a 160A welder though?


NT
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In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Is it a 160A welder though?


[effects - goes out in cold to check, then returns]


No it is an old SIP 150amp and most often used at mid range setting.


Comes with a fitted 13 amp plug?

--
*Your kid may be an honours student, but you're still an idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
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On Thursday, 25 October 2012 15:40:25 UTC+1, wrote:
It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a 30A circuit.


It's probably quite happy on a 16A MCB, provided it's a C curve, not the usual B.

It will also work fine plugged almost anywhere, so long as it's not turned up to its full current.

If you do turn it up to its full current (maybe you're going to build a bridge), you'll find out why modern stick welders are PoS with aluminium windings, and why you should buy an old oil-cooled Oxford at a farm sale instead.

On the whole though, I've got two decent stick welders here and I'm lucky if I use either of them more than once a year. In general its MIG every time.
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charles wrote:
In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
On 25/10/2012 19:47, Bill Wright wrote:
wrote:
On Thursday, October 25, 2012 5:38:52 PM UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
meow2222 submitted this idea :
It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a
30A circuit. I can't help thinking that although it may exceed 13A,
it only does so for at most a minute at a time, with low duty cycle,
so it should work ine in practice. How true or unwise is that?


NT
My welder, not an Aldi one, runs fine on a 13 amp plug. The 13a
cartridge is backed up via 16amp MCB and the MCB very rarely trips at
switch on, due to initial surge. Once on it runs fine. The DB is next
to my welding bench, so handy to reset the MCB.
Is it a 160A welder though?


NT
I can weld at 150A from a 13A plug, but the fuse blows after a while. My
mate down the road has two plugs on his welder, and he plugs them both
in. Bit dodgy really.

Bill


At the place where I worked about 40 years ago they converted the
sockets in the workshop from 15A round pin to 13A square pin. A welder,
which had worked perfectly happily before, started blowing fuses. So
they turned up a 13A-fuse-sized bit of solid brass on the lathe. Simples!


what wasted effort. 1/4" metal spindle from a potentiometer would have
worked instead.

But there's no pride in producing one of those, whereas a shiny item
turned in brass is a thing of beauty. :-)

--
Tciao for Now!

John.
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John Williamson wrote:
charles wrote:
In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
On 25/10/2012 19:47, Bill Wright wrote:
wrote:
On Thursday, October 25, 2012 5:38:52 PM UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:
meow2222 submitted this idea :
It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a
30A circuit. I can't help thinking that although it may exceed 13A,
it only does so for at most a minute at a time, with low duty cycle,
so it should work ine in practice. How true or unwise is that?


NT
My welder, not an Aldi one, runs fine on a 13 amp plug. The 13a
cartridge is backed up via 16amp MCB and the MCB very rarely trips at
switch on, due to initial surge. Once on it runs fine. The DB is next
to my welding bench, so handy to reset the MCB.
Is it a 160A welder though?


NT
I can weld at 150A from a 13A plug, but the fuse blows after a
while. My
mate down the road has two plugs on his welder, and he plugs them both
in. Bit dodgy really.

Bill


At the place where I worked about 40 years ago they converted the
sockets in the workshop from 15A round pin to 13A square pin. A
welder, which had worked perfectly happily before, started blowing
fuses. So they turned up a 13A-fuse-sized bit of solid brass on the
lathe. Simples!


what wasted effort. 1/4" metal spindle from a potentiometer would have
worked instead.

But there's no pride in producing one of those, whereas a shiny item
turned in brass is a thing of beauty. :-)



In Australia we just plug em in and they work, sometimes we cheat and
put 10 amp plugs on them.
we do not have your system of individual fuses and ring mains.
all our outlets are wired in 20amp wiring (2.5 sq mm )mostly with 16a
fuses or breakers protecting the circuit of outlets. if breakers are
used you can have many outlets on a circuit.
the 10a and 15a outlets are the same except that the 15a has a larger
earth hole which prevents 15a plugs going in 10a sockets and
usually have only one socket per circuit.
It is possible to have 20amp breakers on the 20a cabled circuit.
Even with the 10 amp plug on your welder, in a multi outlet circuit, as
long as it is the only thing being used it wont have a problem although
you are not supposed to, to stop overloading as you don't know what your
wife has plugged in.


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On Friday, October 26, 2012 11:45:46 AM UTC+1, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thursday, 25 October 2012 15:40:25 UTC+1, meow2222 wrote:

It says it cant go on a mains plug, must be directly connected to a 30A circuit.




It's probably quite happy on a 16A MCB, provided it's a C curve, not the usual B.



It will also work fine plugged almost anywhere, so long as it's not turned up to its full current.



If you do turn it up to its full current (maybe you're going to build a bridge), you'll find out why modern stick welders are PoS with aluminium windings, and why you should buy an old oil-cooled Oxford at a farm sale instead.



On the whole though, I've got two decent stick welders here and I'm lucky if I use either of them more than once a year. In general its MIG every time.


I'd much prefer a mig, but can't justify £180 on something I'll seldom use. Poor duty cycle should be ok for occasional use.


NT
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on 25/10/2012, Dave Plowman (News) supposed :
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Is it a 160A welder though?


[effects - goes out in cold to check, then returns]


No it is an old SIP 150amp and most often used at mid range setting.


Comes with a fitted 13 amp plug?


Yes, but it was SH and bought with a load of steel angle.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk


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On Friday, 26 October 2012 18:48:59 UTC+1, wrote:
I'd much prefer a mig, but can't justify £180 on something I'll seldom use.


£300+ for a MIG is much better value than a £50 stick welder, in terms of how much use you'll get of it.

I haven't had £50 of use out of a stick welder in 10 years. Without a MIG, I'd see maybe £50 of use out it over a couple of years, but only just. There's really very little (for people who don't simply assume that welders are basic house furnishing) that's amenable to stick welding.
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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I think if I were buying again, I would go for mig. Given the little
welding I do, I would expect even a crap gasless one would do.


I bought a new MIG with the intention of learning to weld - mainly thin
stuff like car bodywork. And despite quite a bit of practice, have never
managed to do it well. Thicker stuff is OK. Experts say that a skilled
welder *might* just about manage with a cheap machine, but for those
starting out the better the tool the easier it is.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On Saturday, October 27, 2012 10:27:03 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:


I think if I were buying again, I would go for mig. Given the little
welding I do, I would expect even a crap gasless one would do.


I bought a new MIG with the intention of learning to weld - mainly thin
stuff like car bodywork. And despite quite a bit of practice, have never
managed to do it well. Thicker stuff is OK. Experts say that a skilled
welder *might* just about manage with a cheap machine, but for those
starting out the better the tool the easier it is.


MIGs are a dream to use compared to arc or gas, arc I think's the hardest.


NT
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