Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine... however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar, it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.

reeveer wrote:


Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q �55 ones.. at
customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.

Were the IR tests in spec when you tested the circuit?

Did the RCD test as being in normal parameters in particular did it hold in
on the x1 test?

What happens if you disconnect the fixed appliances?


--
Tim Watts

In message , Tim Watts
writes
reeveer wrote:


Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q 0 customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.

Were the IR tests in spec when you tested the circuit?

Did the RCD test as being in normal parameters in particular did it hold in
on the x1 test?

What happens if you disconnect the fixed appliances?


Could it be that one of the appliances has the neutral linked to its
earth?
--
hugh

On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 22:02:09 +0100, hugh wrote:

I am a qualified, registered electrician ....

But doesn't understand that a N-E short will trip and RCD. Oh and on that
parasitic diybanter "forum".

Could it be that one of the appliances has the neutral linked to its
earth?

Or chippie has stuck a nail through a cable.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Surely though that would not make either of them display the effect. I think
I'd try another rcd first in case its very over sensitive. there could
easily be some form of interference suppressor in an applience with a
thermostat that is causing a momentary blip.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"hugh" ] wrote in message
...
In message , Tim Watts
writes
reeveer wrote:


Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q 0 customer
choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.

Were the IR tests in spec when you tested the circuit?

Did the RCD test as being in normal parameters in particular did it hold
in
on the x1 test?

What happens if you disconnect the fixed appliances?


Could it be that one of the appliances has the neutral linked to its
earth?
--
hugh

Brian Gaff wrote:
Surely though that would not make either of them display the effect. I think
I'd try another rcd first in case its very over sensitive. there could
easily be some form of interference suppressor in an applience with a
thermostat that is causing a momentary blip.
Brian


IF there is some neutral-earth solid bonding upstream of the RCD then
ANY earth neutral short will provide a path for neutral current that
bypasses the RCD by using the earth instead: That unbalances the RCD
enough to trip it on quiet small current draws.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Saturday, September 22, 2012 9:44:08 AM UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

Surely though that would not make either of them display the effect. I think

I'd try another rcd first in case its very over sensitive. there could

easily be some form of interference suppressor in an applience with a

thermostat that is causing a momentary blip.

Brian





IF there is some neutral-earth solid bonding upstream of the RCD then

ANY earth neutral short will provide a path for neutral current that

bypasses the RCD by using the earth instead: That unbalances the RCD

enough to trip it on quiet small current draws.


I don't see how that can be right. Lots of properties have N&E connected upstream (PME), the RCD only cares about the downstream L/N current balance.


NT

In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Surely though that would not make either of them display the effect. I
think I'd try another rcd first in case its very over sensitive. there
could easily be some form of interference suppressor in an applience
with a thermostat that is causing a momentary blip.

I'd hope the commissioning and testing of a new installation is done
without any 'appliances' plugged in. But even then, decent sockets are
double pole switched, so simply having them switched off would do.

--
*You can't teach an old mouse new clicks *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 22 Sep 2012 09:28:49 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:

Surely though that would not make either of them display the effect. I
think I'd try another rcd first in case its very over sensitive.

OP is supposed to be a "qualified, registered electrician", part of the
kit he needs to be that would include an RCD tester.

there could easily be some form of interference suppressor in an
applience with a thermostat that is causing a momentary blip.

No the description is such that the trip occurs instantly when ever N or
E are connected at the same time, not at some random point with something
else switching.

This chap is obviously only an "operator" press the button pass/fail, no
understanding of what he is doing, how things work and no abilty to fault
find. A "technician" should have enough knowledge of how RCDs and wiring
works to figure out what the fault must be. An "engineer" would know...

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article ,
reeveer wrote:
When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I'd guess at an earth to neutral short somewhere.

I'd disconnect a socket somewhere in the middle of the ring including the
wiring, and disconnect one earth at the CU in turn. That should isolate
which half of the ring is the problem. Then go through the sockets in that
half one by one.

--
*He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 19:56:59 +0000, reeveer
wrote:


Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at
customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.


What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%

Graham. wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 19:56:59 +0000, reeveer
wrote:


Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem
with a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55
ones.. at customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are
fine... however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu,
proceeded to test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping,
even though none of the switches are on for the mcb's in the
kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater
(RM with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will
stay on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth
busbar, it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in
and remove the Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon
as I touch the RM neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections
are fine... to the correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.


What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

There is nothing wrong with them at all. I often fit them - well not from
B&Q but from my wholesalers (I pay £54 and I get to choose the MCBs I want.)

They are sturdy, hi-integrity and the RCBOs are only £20 a go (at Screwfix).

Screwfix are doing a 13 way with 10 MCBs for £59.99 if you need a larger
unit.



--
Adam

Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each circuit.
Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But you may
need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on one
circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

On 22/09/2012 13:23, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But you
may need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

Fredxx wrote:
On 22/09/2012 13:23, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to
replace the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But
you may need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is
the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

Nothing says it must be split.

Doctor Drivel wrote:
Fredxx wrote:
On 22/09/2012 13:23, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to
replace the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But
you may need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is
the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A
problem on one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft
idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

Nothing says it must be split.

Not even reg 314?

--
Adam

In article ,
Fredxx wrote:
An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

Dribble wouldn't know 'edition' if it bit him in the leg. It's one thing
him talking ****e about electric cars on here - but another when he
ventures into areas where he could do harm.

--
*When did my wild oats turn to prunes and all bran?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Fredxx wrote:
An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

D

This man is senile....and an insane Jocko.

On 22/09/2012 13:31, Fredxx wrote:
On 22/09/2012 13:23, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But you
may need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

The price is on the cover[1] in pounds shillings and pence...


[1] Ladybird book of house electrics probably...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 22/09/2012 13:31, Fredxx wrote:
On 22/09/2012 13:23, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But you
may need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

The price is on the cover[1] in pounds shillings and pence...


Lsd ?



--
Bill

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 22/09/2012 13:31, Fredxx wrote:
On 22/09/2012 13:23, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Graham. wrote:

What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

I believe Weygand have double pole RCBOs which is better gain. But you
may need a commercial CU with the RCBOs run vertical. This is the best.

An RCD that controls a bank of mcb's is a waste of time. A problem on
one circuit can have the whole house switched - a daft idea.

Whole house? Which edition are you working to?

The price is on the cover[1] in pounds shillings and pence...

[1] Ladybird book of house electrics probably...

This is the same place you got yours on heating systems.

In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

Gawd save us. He's claiming to know about electrics now.

--
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

Gawd

This man is an idiot.

On 22 Sep,
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

Gawd save us. He's claiming to know about electrics now.

I would agree that RCBOs can offer a better solution, at a *much* *greater*
price.

--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

On 23/09/2012 00:56, wrote:
On 22 Sep,
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

Gawd save us. He's claiming to know about electrics now.

I would agree that RCBOs can offer a better solution, at a *much* *greater*
price.

Indeed - and not often worth the expense IME. You can go for a pragmatic
middle ground with "high integrity" 17th edition style CU[1]

Put any high trip risk circuits on RCBOs, then share others around the
other two or three RCD groups.

[1]
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...gh_I ntegrity


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
wrote:
On 22 Sep,
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to
replace the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

Gawd save us. He's claiming to know about electrics now.

I would agree that RCBOs can offer a better solution, at a *much*
*greater* price.

Quite. But there are lots of makers just as good or better than Wylex.

--
*I'm really easy to get along with once people learn to worship me

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote in message ...
On 22 Sep,
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
What's wrong with those cheap BG CUs from B&Q? I'm tempted to replace
the CU here with one.

Get a Wylex CU, the difference is apparent. And use RCBOs on each
circuit. Far more expensive but well worth it. Far better.

Gawd save us. He's claiming to know about electrics now.

I would agree that RCBOs can offer a better solution, at a *much*
*greater*
price.

Fantastic. The senile Jocko could not figure that but an old hippy did.

reeveer wrote:
Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at
customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.




earth neutral short somewhere


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:
Hi all.



New member here.



I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with

a new installation and rewiring.



I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at

customer choice!).



Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...

however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to

test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none

of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.



The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched

spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM

with sockets).



When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay

on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,

it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the

Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM

neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the

correct busbars, etc.



I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!



Thanks.









--

reeveer

On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:
Hi all.



New member here.



I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with

a new installation and rewiring.



I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at

customer choice!).



Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...

however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to

test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none

of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.



The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched

spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM

with sockets).



When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay

on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,

it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the

Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM

neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the

correct busbars, etc.



I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!



Thanks.


Seems obvious its a neutral to earth connection somewhere.
RM?


NT

wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:
Hi all.



New member here.



I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem
with

a new installation and rewiring.



I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55
ones.. at

customer choice!).



Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are
fine...

however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to

test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though
none

of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.



The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched

spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater
(RM

with sockets).



When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will
stay

on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth
busbar,

it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove
the

Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the
RM

neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the

correct busbars, etc.



I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!



Thanks.


Seems obvious its a neutral to earth connection somewhere.


RM?

I was thinking that.

But as the OP has given no usefull info about the setup there is little
point in helping him.

FFS he spent more time giving info about the 5 flats that did work and and
the choice of CU than explaining the problem



--
Adam

ARW wrote:

But as the OP has given no usefull info about the setup there is little
point in helping him.

FFS he spent more time giving info about the 5 flats that did work and and
the choice of CU than explaining the problem

Or a troll - he's been very quiet. Most people posting a question like that
would be on the net in short order looking for replies.

A real sparky, even a 4 day wonder[1], would probably have said they'd
tested the wiring and RCD (but probably without the appliances) and found
nothing wrong hence genuine confusion.

[1] On my 4-day-wonder course, the blatantly clueless and dangerous seemed
to leave after a couple of days. Everyone left could run the prescribed
tests and locate faults blind based on the tests.


--
Tim Watts

On 22/09/2012 00:49, wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:
Hi all.


Seems obvious its a neutral to earth connection somewhere.
RM?

"Ring Main" perhaps?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, September 22, 2012 2:41:04 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/09/2012 00:49, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:

Hi all.





Seems obvious its a neutral to earth connection somewhere.

RM?



"Ring Main" perhaps?

Thank god I diy.


NT

wrote:

On Saturday, September 22, 2012 2:41:04 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/09/2012 00:49, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:

Hi all.





Seems obvious its a neutral to earth connection somewhere.

RM?



"Ring Main" perhaps?

Thank god I diy.

Yes, that's his problem, he's got an 11,000v ring main in his flat.

--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

On Saturday, September 22, 2012 6:45:12 AM UTC+1, A.Lee wrote:
meow2222 wrote:

On Saturday, September 22, 2012 2:41:04 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

On 22/09/2012 00:49, meow2222 wrote:

On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:03:02 PM UTC+1, reeveer wrote:



Hi all.











Seems obvious its a neutral to earth connection somewhere.



RM?







"Ring Main" perhaps?



Thank god I diy.



Yes, that's his problem, he's got an 11,000v ring main in his flat.

Might explain why the bulbs don't last very long.


NT

"reeveer" wrote in message
...

Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at
customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Check the IR of the affected RM. But first, are you sure you have the N's in
the right busbar as assuming it will be a split load dual RCD CU ?

On Sep 21, 9:03*pm, reeveer wrote:
Hi all.

New member here.

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

I have rewired 6 new flats and fitted brand new cu's (B&Q £55 ones.. at
customer choice!).

Anyway, all rewire and fitting of consumer units of 5 flats are fine...
however, the last one... did the rewire, fitted the cu, proceeded to
test and the rcd for the kitchen/bathroom is tripping, even though none
of the switches are on for the mcb's in the kitchen load of the cu.

The kitchen load comprises of, 3 double sockets, 1 radiator switched
spur (RM with sockets), 1 cooker switch and a bathroom wall heater (RM
with sockets).

When I remove the earths from the kitchen/bathroom RM, the RCD will stay
on, but as soon as I touch either of the RM earth to the earth busbar,
it will trip the RCD. Also, I can leave the RM earths in and remove the
Neutral RM cables and it will be fine...but as soon as I touch the RM
neutral to the busbar, it trips. All connections are fine... to the
correct busbars, etc.

I am miffed on this one, and any help would be greatl;y appreciated!

Thanks.

--
reeveer

Brilliant trolling here methinks. Got the usual suspects very hot
under the collar.

Philip

wrote:

On Sep 21, 9:03 pm, reeveer wrote:

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

Brilliant trolling here methinks.

Nah, it's a banter user, they probably forgot the name of the website
they went to in the first place ...

Andy Burns wrote:

wrote:

On Sep 21, 9:03 pm, reeveer wrote:

I am a qualified, registered electrician and I have a mojor problem with
a new installation and rewiring.

Brilliant trolling here methinks.

Nah, it's a banter user, they probably forgot the name of the website
they went to in the first place ...

I still vot etroll, as I did 2 days ago.

If he had any sense, he would have found the IET forums - they have awhole
section for professional sparkies.
--
Tim Watts