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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing valve (prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)

Tks.
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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

On May 28, 9:19*pm, asalcedo wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure *is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve *(prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)

Tks.

--
asalcedo



If the mains pressure is 7 bar and your appliances are 8 bar why would
you need a PRV?
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On 29/05/2012 06:39, harry wrote:
On May 28, 9:19 pm, wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)

Tks.

--
asalcedo



If the mains pressure is 7 bar and your appliances are 8 bar why would
you need a PRV?


Because 7 bar will make your cold taps a bit lively? If there is a
combi, you might get a bit better stability on temperature control using
a PRV too.

I think I would be inclined to go for one.
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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

On Mon, 28 May 2012 20:19:24 +0000, asalcedo wrote:

All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?


Why do you think a pressure *reducing* valve will magically *add* 0.5
to 1 bar to your mains pressure to meet the appliances minimum spec?

Care to rephrase the question?

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by newshound View Post
On 29/05/2012 06:39, harry wrote:
On May 28, 9:19 pm, wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)

Tks.

--
asalcedo



If the mains pressure is 7 bar and your appliances are 8 bar why would
you need a PRV?


Because 7 bar will make your cold taps a bit lively? If there is a
combi, you might get a bit better stability on temperature control using
a PRV too.

I think I would be inclined to go for one.
Yes, I am inclined to go for one too.

The reason why I am asking is because I think it is not safe to be so close to the maximum service pressure of the appliances.


Also, even though the measured pressure over a couple of days is 6.5 to 7 bar, chances are that it may have peaks at a higher level.

Additionally, is it not too much pressure for the pipes?


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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Mon, 28 May 2012 20:19:24 +0000, asalcedo wrote:

All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?


Why do you think a pressure *reducing* valve will magically *add* 0.5
to 1 bar to your mains pressure to meet the appliances minimum spec?

Care to rephrase the question?


Given 7 bar is pretty much towards the top end by mains water standards I
suspect many auto-corrected the OP's post into "max 7bar"

--
Tim Watts
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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)


Makes perfect sense to me, but I've done a lot of such stuff.

When, what time, was the 7 bar measured? Bear in mind that there are some very cheap and nasty pressure gauges on the market and a wrong measurement is very likley. 7 bar sounds dubious.

The pressure goes up overnight when there is little demand and so it is quite possible that it could exceed 8 bar. 10 bar is a common test pressure for pipework, so above that you could expect joints to start popping. You could check whether there is a maximum the suppliers cannot exceed (I don't know). It would be against their interests to supply anything more than the legal minimum. It may be a failure in one of their PRVs giving excess pressure.

If you put in a PRV, 3 bar is fairly typical, but set it to whatever you prefer. The downstream appliances are only protected if there is a pressure relief valve, PRVs often fail by allowing a trickle through when there's no demand. Have a look at an inlet valve group for an unvented water heater, it does all the above.

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Onetap wrote:

On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)


Makes perfect sense to me, but I've done a lot of such stuff.

When, what time, was the 7 bar measured? Bear in mind that there are
some very cheap and nasty pressure gauges on the market and a wrong
measurement is very likley. 7 bar sounds dubious.


But not impossible - mine is 7.5bar measured with a reasonably decent guage
- and the pressure is obviously much higher here than at other places I've
lived in that if you turn a tap on full in the litchen sink, much of it will
end up on my trousers!

I fitted an adjustable PRV and it's been very good (one from BES) -
excellent regulation including holding the static pressure down and it does
not impede the flow significantly *at the output of the PRV* (it will
obviously impede the flow due to less pressure through any remaining
pipework).

The pressure goes up overnight when there is little demand and so it is
quite possible that it could exceed 8 bar. 10 bar is a common test
pressure for pipework, so above that you could expect joints to start
popping. You could check whether there is a maximum the suppliers cannot
exceed (I don't know). It would be against their interests to supply
anything more than the legal minimum. It may be a failure in one of their
PRVs giving excess pressure.

If you put in a PRV, 3 bar is fairly typical, but set it to whatever you
prefer. The downstream appliances are only protected if there is a
pressure relief valve, PRVs often fail by allowing a trickle through
when there's no demand. Have a look at an inlet valve group for an
unvented water heater, it does all the above.


I have mine at 4bar as it seems a good balance between taps and being able
to get a good blast out the garden hose. But I do also have flow restrictors
on some taps too.
--
Tim Watts
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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

Tim Watts wrote:

But not impossible - mine is 7.5bar measured with a reasonably decent guage
- and the pressure is obviously much higher here than at other places I've
lived in that if you turn a tap on full in the litchen sink, much of it will
end up on my trousers!


Blimey

Its 'gauge' and 'kitchen', not 'guage' and 'litchen'.

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To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.
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On 29/05/2012 11:19, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

But not impossible - mine is 7.5bar measured with a reasonably decent
guage - and the pressure is obviously much higher here than at other
places I've lived in that if you turn a tap on full in the litchen
sink, much of it will end up on my trousers!


Blimey

Its 'gauge' and 'kitchen', not 'guage' and 'litchen'.

But there's plenty of redundancy, and no way to switch off error
correction :-)


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On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.


Just re-read that.
Do you mean 'maximum 8 bar' ?
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On Tue, 29 May 2012 09:36:49 +0000, asalcedo wrote:

All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.


The reason why I am asking is because I think it is not safe to be so
close to the maximum service pressure of the appliances.


But you say the minimum service pressure of your appliances is 8 bar.
You don't state a maximum.

--
Cheers
Dave.



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On Tue, 29 May 2012 10:39:01 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:

I suspect many auto-corrected the OP's post into "max 7bar"


I guess that as well, reading what they thought they saw not what is
actually written. Awaiting confirmation from the OP as to what he
really meant to write.

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onetap View Post
On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.


Just re-read that.
Do you mean 'maximum 8 bar' ?
No, it is correct. "Rated at minimum 8 bar". Some are rated at 10 bar.

A discerning reader knows that the rated pressure is a maximum service pressure.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onetap View Post
On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.

If the mains water pressure is 6.5 to 7 bar, is a pressure reducing
valve (prv) recommended?

If so, which would be a recommended pressure? (set with the prv)


Makes perfect sense to me, but I've done a lot of such stuff.

When, what time, was the 7 bar measured? Bear in mind that there are some very cheap and nasty pressure gauges on the market and a wrong measurement is very likley. 7 bar sounds dubious.

The pressure goes up overnight when there is little demand and so it is quite possible that it could exceed 8 bar. 10 bar is a common test pressure for pipework, so above that you could expect joints to start popping. You could check whether there is a maximum the suppliers cannot exceed (I don't know). It would be against their interests to supply anything more than the legal minimum. It may be a failure in one of their PRVs giving excess pressure.

If you put in a PRV, 3 bar is fairly typical, but set it to whatever you prefer. The downstream appliances are only protected if there is a pressure relief valve, PRVs often fail by allowing a trickle through when there's no demand. Have a look at an inlet valve group for an unvented water heater, it does all the above.
I have used a Monument Tools manometer. The same one reads 3.4 bar when I feed the house with a pump set at 3.4 bar, so it seems the readings are accurate.

The measurements have been made during the day

I am going for the Honeywell D06F PRV and will set it at 4 bar


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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

On 29/05/2012 16:06, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2012 10:39:01 +0100, Tim Watts wrote:

I suspect many auto-corrected the OP's post into "max 7bar"


I guess that as well, reading what they thought they saw not what is
actually written. Awaiting confirmation from the OP as to what he
really meant to write.


I didn't autocorrect it, and still got that meaning. I suspect Colin is
right: What he means by "All the appliances and plumbing at home are
rated minimum 8 bar." is that "The minimum rating of any of my
appliances and plumbing is 8 bar" rather than "All the appliances and
plumbing are rated minimum 8 bar, maximum something higher".

Silly language.

Andy
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On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 8:22:47 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
Onetap;2868866 Wrote:
On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:-
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.-

Just re-read that.
Do you mean 'maximum 8 bar' ?


No, it is correct. "Rated at minimum 8 bar". Some are rated at 10 bar.

A discerning reader knows that the rated pressure is a maximum service
pressure.

So you meant that they have a minimum maximum 8 bar?

"A discerning reader knows......"??

A discerning author would not write ******** and blame his being a halfwit cretin on the reader.

I'll take that as an apology and a thank you.



--
asalcedo


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onetap View Post
On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 8:22:47 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:
Onetap;2868866 Wrote:
On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:-
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.-

Just re-read that.
Do you mean 'maximum 8 bar' ?


No, it is correct. "Rated at minimum 8 bar". Some are rated at 10 bar.

A discerning reader knows that the rated pressure is a maximum service
pressure.

So you meant that they have a minimum maximum 8 bar?

"A discerning reader knows......"??

A discerning author would not write ******** and blame his being a halfwit cretin on the reader.

I'll take that as an apology and a thank you.



--
asalcedo
Yes, apologies and thank you.

But, have you ever seen a home where the appliances require at least 8 bar?
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Default Pressure Reducing Valve

On May 30, 6:05*pm, asalcedo wrote:
Onetap;2869145 Wrote:





On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 8:22:47 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:-
Onetap;2868866 Wrote: -
On Monday, May 28, 2012 9:19:24 PM UTC+1, asalcedo wrote:-
All the appliances and plumbing at home are rated minimum 8 bar.-


Just re-read that.
Do you mean 'maximum 8 bar' ?-


No, it is correct. "Rated at minimum 8 bar". Some are rated at 10 bar.


A discerning reader knows that the rated pressure is a maximum service
pressure.
-
So you meant that they have a minimum maximum 8 bar?


"A discerning reader knows......"??


A discerning author would not write ******** and blame his being a
halfwit cretin on the reader.


I'll take that as an apology and a thank you.-


--
asalcedo-


Yes, apologies and thank you.

But, have you ever seen a home where the appliances require at least 8
bar?

--
asalcedo- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



No. Three bar is more normal.
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