I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

On Mar 26, 9:54*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

regards

Tape the vacuum nozzle to the angle gnirder and its fine, room only
needs a regular normal clean afterwards. Don't and of course itrs a
disaster zone.


NT

In message
, NT
writes
On Mar 26, 9:54*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

regards

Tape the vacuum nozzle to the angle gnirder and its fine, room only
needs a regular normal clean afterwards. Don't and of course itrs a
disaster zone.

Hmm... I watched the electrician chasing cable slots in plaster and
noted how often he had to *de-dust* his Henry vacuum filter.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Mar 26, 10:30*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
, NT
writes



On Mar 26, 9:54*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

regards

Tape the vacuum nozzle to the angle gnirder and its fine, room only
needs a regular normal clean afterwards. Don't and of course itrs a
disaster zone.

Hmm... I watched the electrician chasing cable slots in plaster and
noted how often he had to *de-dust* his Henry vacuum filter.

regards

Wrong type of vac. I used a cyclone, and not a dyson. These remove
almost all of the dust before any physical filter is encountered. The
filter on the one I used was washable, and didnt need a clean after
doing a similar sized job. You also get more suction per watt with
cyclones.


NT

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what was
an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

Put the tent on both sides and use the angle grinder.
I believe you can hire wet cutting chain saws for cutting through walls but
a vac connected to the grinder inside a tent should be clean enough. You
probably won't be able to see if you don't have the vac.
Make sure the vac has a big fine filter or it vents into the outside as the
fine dust from a vac is just as bad as the stuff from the grinder.

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

When I faced a similar problem I put a masonry (carbide-toothed) blade
in my reciprocating saw, and that did the job with surprisingly little
mess. The blades are about £10 each (Bosch), and one blade was good
for about 4m of cutting. It took about 10 minutes/metre, so not as
quick as other alternatives, but it gave a very neat cut. More info
he http://www.masonrymagazine.com/10-05/sawblades.html

Alternatively, but still pretty messy, you could hire one of these:
http://www.as170.com/INT/

dan.

In message
,
dent writes

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

When I faced a similar problem I put a masonry (carbide-toothed) blade
in my reciprocating saw, and that did the job with surprisingly little
mess. The blades are about £10 each (Bosch), and one blade was good
for about 4m of cutting. It took about 10 minutes/metre, so not as
quick as other alternatives, but it gave a very neat cut. More info
he http://www.masonrymagazine.com/10-05/sawblades.html

I have yet to acquire a reciprocating saw.

Alternatively, but still pretty messy, you could hire one of these:
http://www.as170.com/INT/

Yummy. That looks just the job:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 03:05:45 -0700 (PDT), dent
wrote:

When I faced a similar problem I put a masonry (carbide-toothed) blade
in my reciprocating saw, and that did the job with surprisingly little
mess. The blades are about £10 each (Bosch), and one blade was good
for about 4m of cutting. It took about 10 minutes/metre, so not as
quick as other alternatives, but it gave a very neat cut. More info
he http://www.masonrymagazine.com/10-05/sawblades.html

Hmm... haven't tried that yet - and I have a concrete wall that's
crying out for a doorway in it.

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:54:05 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

Oh dear...

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I'd be seriosuly tempted to go the hand route of some sort, an angle
grinder would have to be a big one (10" hired?) to cut through blocks
and the dust... Are these structural blocks for just light weight
internal "thermalite" ones, the latter will cut well enough with a
cheap hard point saw.

Note what you say about how often a vac would need un clogging. I'm
cleaning out the builders dust ATM with the cheapo earlex and that
gets a blocked filter with noticeable reduction in suck after just
the dust from the swept and small piles of small rubble from just one
room. And it's still shoving a fine dust into the air, if I had
another hose or two for it I'd vent outside...

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Essential and tape sealed to the wall. Once you have the opening,
throughly clean up and then leave the vac running for an hour to
filter the air. That will make a difference but the room will still
need a good dusting afterwards. Covering everything with *clean*
dustsheets or lightweight plastic might defray the wrath of SWMBO'd.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Mar 26, 12:14*pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:54:05 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:
I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

Oh dear...

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I'd be seriosuly tempted to go the hand route of some sort, an angle
grinder would have to be a big one (10" hired?) to cut through blocks
and the dust... Are these structural blocks for just light weight
internal "thermalite" ones, the latter will cut well enough with a
cheap hard point saw.

Note what you say about how often a vac would need un clogging. I'm
cleaning out the builders dust ATM with the cheapo earlex and that
gets a blocked filter with noticeable reduction in suck after just
the dust from the swept and small piles of small rubble from just one
room. And it's still shoving a fine dust into the air, if I had
another hose or two for it I'd vent outside...

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Essential and tape sealed to the wall. Once you have the opening,
throughly clean up and then leave the vac running for an hour to
filter the air. That will make a difference but the room will still
need a good dusting afterwards. Covering everything with *clean*
dustsheets or lightweight plastic might defray the wrath of SWMBO'd.

--
Cheers
Dave.

You only need a nick to be cut in most bricks (say10mm deep) with an
angle grinder and they crack easily with a hammer and bolster.

In article o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:54:05 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

Oh dear...

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I'd be seriosuly tempted to go the hand route of some sort, an angle
grinder would have to be a big one (10" hired?) to cut through blocks
and the dust... Are these structural blocks for just light weight
internal "thermalite" ones, the latter will cut well enough with a
cheap hard point saw.

Note what you say about how often a vac would need un clogging. I'm
cleaning out the builders dust ATM with the cheapo earlex and that
gets a blocked filter with noticeable reduction in suck after just
the dust from the swept and small piles of small rubble from just one
room. And it's still shoving a fine dust into the air, if I had
another hose or two for it I'd vent outside...

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Essential and tape sealed to the wall. Once you have the opening,
throughly clean up and then leave the vac running for an hour to
filter the air. That will make a difference but the room will still
need a good dusting afterwards. Covering everything with *clean*
dustsheets or lightweight plastic might defray the wrath of SWMBO'd.

I've done a smaller scale version of this recently and went for the
manual approach but it was single skin and lot smaller than a door.

I tented the work area and taped it up then cleared the room of as much
stuff as possible, leaving large stuff behind and covered everything
with thin plastic dustsheets.

In the end I was surprised how effective the tent was, there was very
little dust in the room and it seemed to be held to the dustsheets by
static cling, very effective and v cheap.

I also hung a curtain over the door in case things went bad but it
wasn't really needed.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:54:05 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what
was an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

Oh dear...

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I'd be seriosuly tempted to go the hand route of some sort, an angle
grinder would have to be a big one (10" hired?) to cut through blocks
and the dust... Are these structural blocks for just light weight
internal "thermalite" ones, the latter will cut well enough with a
cheap hard point saw.

Structural. Although this was an internal wall, they used the same stuff
for the cavity outer. If I can find a left over, I'll try the hand saw.

Note what you say about how often a vac would need un clogging. I'm
cleaning out the builders dust ATM with the cheapo earlex and that
gets a blocked filter with noticeable reduction in suck after just
the dust from the swept and small piles of small rubble from just one
room. And it's still shoving a fine dust into the air, if I had
another hose or two for it I'd vent outside...

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Essential and tape sealed to the wall. Once you have the opening,
throughly clean up and then leave the vac running for an hour to
filter the air. That will make a difference but the room will still
need a good dusting afterwards. Covering everything with *clean*
dustsheets or lightweight plastic might defray the wrath of SWMBO'd.

It is actually her idea:-)

I think it might best be deferred as I am also considering extending the
under floor heating to include the bedroom. This will require a full
clear out and re-decorate.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 21:13:35 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

Once you have the opening, throughly clean up and then leave the
vac
running for an hour to filter the air. That will make a difference
but
the room will still need a good dusting afterwards. Covering
everything
with *clean* dustsheets or lightweight plastic might defray the
wrath
of SWMBO'd.

It is actually her idea:-)

Oh come on, you know full well that one microscopic grain of dust and
it will be *all* your fault, not hers for wanting the work done in
the first place. I get it all the time my normal answer is "you can't
make an omlette without breaking eggs".

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
I get it all the time my normal answer is "you can't
make an omlette without breaking eggs".

"And you got shell in mine the last time you made one, ooooh I hate it
when you do that" ;-)
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In message , fred writes
In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice writes
I get it all the time my normal answer is "you can't
make an omlette without breaking eggs".

"And you got shell in mine the last time you made one, ooooh I hate it
when you do that" ;-)

There is an apocryphal tale of the Army catering sergeant seen putting
broken egg shells into the breakfast scrambled egg.

It's to make the men think we use real eggs was his excuse!

Is it about time for a *joke of the week* thread? I don't get out enough
to know any:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 11:14:20 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Note what you say about how often a vac would need un clogging. I'm
cleaning out the builders dust ATM with the cheapo earlex and that
gets a blocked filter with noticeable reduction in suck after just
the dust from the swept and small piles of small rubble from just one
room. And it's still shoving a fine dust into the air, if I had
another hose or two for it I'd vent outside...

I wonder if one of those ash-catcher containers that go in line from
the fireplace to the vacuum would work with concrete dust.

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what was
an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

regards
--
Tim Lamb


I've just done exactly the same thing myself. Used a 20mm SDS bit to
perforate the line of the opening, drilling all the wall through the block
and at centres as close as humanly possible, followed by a 2" bolster chisel
with lump hammer and some grunt to break through.

The first block out is the toughest, and dust is kept to a minimum
especially if you lift blocks out once they're loose, rather than letting
them drop to the floor. Regular dosing with a fine mist spray on the
exposed mortar bed joints helps as well.

In message , DIYer
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .
I suspect this has been covered before.....

I need to break though the remaining block work wall, separating what was
an integral garage from a ground floor bedroom.

The bedroom is fully furnished and in use:-(

My original thought was to use a carbide tipped hand driven masonry saw
but these are 1995 era blocks. Hammer and bolster?

Angle grinder, even at low speed, has been considered and rejected:-)

I can build a temporary plastic cage on the bedroom side to contain most
of the dust and arrange a vacuum cleaner extract.

Any tips, experience?

regards
--
Tim Lamb


I've just done exactly the same thing myself. Used a 20mm SDS bit to
perforate the line of the opening, drilling all the wall through the block
and at centres as close as humanly possible, followed by a 2" bolster chisel
with lump hammer and some grunt to break through.

I'll bet your arms knew all about drilling that number of holes!

The first block out is the toughest, and dust is kept to a minimum
especially if you lift blocks out once they're loose, rather than letting
them drop to the floor. Regular dosing with a fine mist spray on the
exposed mortar bed joints helps as well.

OK. Nice to know it can be done.

I plan to enquire for the AS170 brick and mortar saw suggested by Dan.
Otherwise I think the job may wait until we re-do the floor screed.

regards



--
Tim Lamb