harry wrote:
On Jan 12, 6:40 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 11, 10:33 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Cash" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:

I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?

Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist
and screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the
finished height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across
the ply and saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the
reinforcement.

Dennis,

It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but
with all due respects, I think you really are talking through
your hat!

In this case, they reinforcing material should be bolted to the
joist and should, at the very least be of equal thickness to the
original (and *NOT* "several strips of ply") doh!

Well I didn't say how thick the ply is!

Well that really speaks volumes on how little you know about the
subject - or of correctly responding to a post. Read my first post
here in response to the OP, and you will see what my initial
question was (repeated here) - rather vital information for
structural repairs wouldn't you agree?

-----------------------------

GMM,

How long, wide a[nd] [1] deep is the joist itself - (is the
measurment you gave -
the corridor or joist length)?

[1] Error in my OP corrected here
----------------------------

You really shouldn't argue unless you know how thick the ply is,
how long the ply is and what load is on the ply.

Please show me where you specified those dimensions in your
response to the OP's question. Oh, you didn't and as both the OP
and myself have yet to develop ESP, how are we to read your mind?

I can assure you that three pieces of 18 mm ply on either side
would replace 20 mm of a joist.

Now how long and wide should those three pieces of "18mm ply" be,
what glue (and preparation of the joist and ply) would you use [2]
- and what type, length, diameter and metal of screw would you
advise to fix that ply

And just how do you expect a few " bits of ply, screws and glue" to
take the load of a trimmed joist of unspecified size and also
prevent further movement?

[1] Epoxy, PVA, casein, animal - or perhaps the more modern
No-Nails type or even silicone mastic.

And as an old carpenter, I can assure you that unless you used
stress graded plywood, industrial glues, correct mechanical fixings
and design calculations - I would suggest that you are wrong.

And as for advising the reducing any load bearing piece of timber
without being told the size of it, its unsupported span and live
and dead load carrying well...

Well if you are that worried then its a lot better than taking 20
mm off and it will resist further warping.

If you believe that, then you have little knowledge on the actual
mechanics of timber usage in construction work.

I suggest you lookup engineered joists to see just how strong they
can be.

That's a far different animal from the "repair" you suggested.

As for "looking up engineered joists", I studied that subject some
forty five years ago as part of a 5 year City & Guilds indentured
apprenticeship [2] - and used some of the stuff in later years
during works on public buildings.

[2] You do remember those don't you? And you may even have a few
building construction qualifications yourself.

Cash- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you ever looked at the wing structure of a wooden aircraft, you
would be astonished at how strong plywood is along it's plane.

Yep, the old Mosquito really was some aircraft wasn't it - but what
the hell that has to do with cutting of a floor joist really escapes
me.


Well if it escapes you you're pretty thick.
The main spar in a wooden aircraft is truely astonishing if you see
one cut through.
The mosquito was only one of hundreds of designs. Many still flying
and lots of people have to repair them.

Oh and as you are thick, a joist and an aircraft spar are both beams.
The aircraft spar is taken to the absolute limit of what is possible.

Harry, if it's getting down to gutter level.

You're really not exactly the brightest iron in the fire are you, especially
as you seem to take solutions from other people posts here - and pass them
off as your own.

And as for trying to connect an engineered aircraft spar to a rafter saw
from a single lump of in design terms, then you progress from dense to even
denser and totally incapable of actually keeping to the subject in hand.

Try loading an aircraft spar, notched for pipes, drilled for cables and
supported at only two ends with the deadloads household furniture and the
live loads of persons walking over and see how long it will last.

A rare thing for me, but you are now consigned to the kill-file.


Cash

Cash wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 12, 6:40 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 11, 10:33 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Cash" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:
I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?
Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist
and screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the
finished height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across
the ply and saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the
reinforcement.
Dennis,
It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but
with all due respects, I think you really are talking through
your hat!
In this case, they reinforcing material should be bolted to the
joist and should, at the very least be of equal thickness to the
original (and *NOT* "several strips of ply") doh!
Well I didn't say how thick the ply is!
Well that really speaks volumes on how little you know about the
subject - or of correctly responding to a post. Read my first post
here in response to the OP, and you will see what my initial
question was (repeated here) - rather vital information for
structural repairs wouldn't you agree?
-----------------------------
GMM,
How long, wide a[nd] [1] deep is the joist itself - (is the
measurment you gave -
the corridor or joist length)?
[1] Error in my OP corrected here
----------------------------
You really shouldn't argue unless you know how thick the ply is,
how long the ply is and what load is on the ply.
Please show me where you specified those dimensions in your
response to the OP's question. Oh, you didn't and as both the OP
and myself have yet to develop ESP, how are we to read your mind?
I can assure you that three pieces of 18 mm ply on either side
would replace 20 mm of a joist.
Now how long and wide should those three pieces of "18mm ply" be,
what glue (and preparation of the joist and ply) would you use [2]
- and what type, length, diameter and metal of screw would you
advise to fix that ply
And just how do you expect a few " bits of ply, screws and glue" to
take the load of a trimmed joist of unspecified size and also
prevent further movement?
[1] Epoxy, PVA, casein, animal - or perhaps the more modern
No-Nails type or even silicone mastic.
And as an old carpenter, I can assure you that unless you used
stress graded plywood, industrial glues, correct mechanical fixings
and design calculations - I would suggest that you are wrong.
And as for advising the reducing any load bearing piece of timber
without being told the size of it, its unsupported span and live
and dead load carrying well...
Well if you are that worried then its a lot better than taking 20
mm off and it will resist further warping.
If you believe that, then you have little knowledge on the actual
mechanics of timber usage in construction work.
I suggest you lookup engineered joists to see just how strong they
can be.
That's a far different animal from the "repair" you suggested.
As for "looking up engineered joists", I studied that subject some
forty five years ago as part of a 5 year City & Guilds indentured
apprenticeship [2] - and used some of the stuff in later years
during works on public buildings.
[2] You do remember those don't you? And you may even have a few
building construction qualifications yourself.
Cash- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
If you ever looked at the wing structure of a wooden aircraft, you
would be astonished at how strong plywood is along it's plane.
Yep, the old Mosquito really was some aircraft wasn't it - but what
the hell that has to do with cutting of a floor joist really escapes
me.

Well if it escapes you you're pretty thick.
The main spar in a wooden aircraft is truely astonishing if you see
one cut through.
The mosquito was only one of hundreds of designs. Many still flying
and lots of people have to repair them.

Oh and as you are thick, a joist and an aircraft spar are both beams.
The aircraft spar is taken to the absolute limit of what is possible.

Harry, if it's getting down to gutter level.

You're really not exactly the brightest iron in the fire are you, especially
as you seem to take solutions from other people posts here - and pass them
off as your own.

And as for trying to connect an engineered aircraft spar to a rafter saw
from a single lump of in design terms, then you progress from dense to even
denser and totally incapable of actually keeping to the subject in hand.

Try loading an aircraft spar, notched for pipes, drilled for cables and
supported at only two ends with the deadloads household furniture and the
live loads of persons walking over and see how long it will last.

A rare thing for me, but you are now consigned to the kill-file.


There are no mosquitoes flying today.

The wooden structures simply haven't lasted..

Mind you, they were never designed to anyway.

Average life of a WWII airframe was about 6 weeks in active 'service' IIRC.


Not that this has ANYTHING to do with sawing beams.

But it goes to nail a further bit of harry's coffin down.


Cash

On Jan 13, 4:29*pm, "Cash"
wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 12, 11:47 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
GMM wrote:
Well well well....If I'd known it was going to cause such
controversy I would have thought of a different way to ask the
question!!

Let everyone be assured that the house won't fall down because it
has a straight floor and by the time I'm finished it will be
stronger than it was to start with. That, of course, wasn't the
question: I was simply after some suggestions for how I might do a
decent job of cutting the top straight!

I might have to do some off site experiments and see what 'feels'
best between Jim K's power plane, Ghostrecon's router and dennis's
guided saw, though I suspect that whatever I use will be a bit of a
bugger all the way along a joist. I would replace it as suggested
but that would mean I'd have to rewire half the house as pretty
much every cable in the house goes through this joist.

Cheers people

You're welcome GMM.

If you go ahead and decide to cut the joist, have you thought of
using a very sharp axe, cutting with the grain to 'knock' most of
the waste off - and then finish off to the correct height using the
electric planer or even a sharp hand plane?

Just to perhaps cause a little more controversy with one or two here
- if you could get hold of an old adze, that would be even better,
as you could stand up and do the job, and with a sharp tool and a
little bit of practice, get an almost plane-like finish for a
lot-less effort.

Just wear a pair of steel toecapped shoes and shin-pads though while
you're learning. :-)

All the best with a bugger of a job, and let us know how you get on.

Cash- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Using an adze is highly skilled and not easy to learn, I have tried
one out..
If all nails are pulled, about ten minutes with an electric plane.

Harry,

Then you had a poor instructor!

Cash- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think to use one really skilfully would take many hours of practice.
When I see these adzed oak beams in old buildings, I can only marvel.
I had a house full of them at one point. Some had to be replaced.

i use to simulate the adze finish with a flapwheel but it wasn't quite
right.

The electric plane is far faster.

On Jan 13, 4:53*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Cash wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 12, 6:40 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 11, 10:33 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Cash" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:
I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?
Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist
and screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the
finished height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across
the ply and saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the
reinforcement.
Dennis,
It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but
with all due respects, I think you really are talking through
your hat!
In this case, they reinforcing material should be bolted to the
joist and should, at the very least be of equal thickness to the
original (and *NOT* "several strips of ply") doh!
Well I didn't say how thick the ply is!
Well that really speaks volumes on how little you know about the
subject - or of correctly responding to a post. Read my first post
here in response to the OP, and you will see what my initial
question was (repeated here) - rather vital information for
structural repairs wouldn't you agree?
-----------------------------
GMM,
How long, wide a[nd] [1] deep is the joist itself - (is the
measurment you gave -
the corridor or joist length)?
[1] Error in my OP corrected here
----------------------------
You really shouldn't argue unless you know how thick the ply is,
how long the ply is and what load is on the ply.
Please show me where you specified those dimensions in your
response to the OP's question. Oh, you didn't and as both the OP
and myself have yet to develop ESP, how are we to read your mind?
I can assure you that three pieces of 18 mm ply on either side
would replace 20 mm of a joist.
Now how long and wide should those three pieces of "18mm ply" be,
what glue (and preparation of the joist and ply) would you use [2]
- and what type, length, diameter and metal of screw would you
advise to fix that ply
And just how do you expect a few " bits of ply, screws and glue" to
take the load of a trimmed joist of unspecified size and also
prevent further movement?
[1] Epoxy, PVA, casein, animal - or perhaps the more modern
No-Nails type or even silicone mastic.
And as an old carpenter, I can assure you that unless you used
stress graded plywood, industrial glues, correct mechanical fixings
and design calculations - I would suggest that you are wrong.
And as for advising the reducing any load bearing piece of timber
without being told the size of it, its unsupported span and live
and dead load carrying well...
Well if you are that worried then its a lot better than taking 20
mm off and it will resist further warping.
If you believe that, then you have little knowledge on the actual
mechanics of timber usage in construction work.
I suggest you lookup engineered joists to see just how strong they
can be.
That's a far different animal from the "repair" you suggested.
As for "looking up engineered joists", I studied that subject some
forty five years ago as part of a 5 year City & Guilds indentured
apprenticeship [2] - and used some of the stuff in later years
during works on public buildings.
[2] You do remember those don't you? And you may even have a few
building construction qualifications yourself.
Cash- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
If you ever looked at the wing structure of a wooden aircraft, you
would be astonished at how strong plywood is along it's plane.
Yep, the old Mosquito really was some aircraft wasn't it - but what
the hell that has to do with cutting of a floor joist really escapes
me.

Well if it escapes you you're pretty thick.
The main spar in a wooden aircraft is truely astonishing if you see
one cut through.
The mosquito was only one of hundreds of designs. Many still flying
and lots of people have to repair them.

Oh and as you are thick, *a joist and an aircraft spar are both beams.
The aircraft spar is taken to the absolute limit of what is possible.

Harry, if it's getting down to gutter level.

You're really not exactly the brightest iron in the fire are you, especially
as you seem to take solutions from other people posts here - and pass them
off as your own.

And as for trying to connect an engineered aircraft spar to a rafter saw
from a single lump of in design terms, then you progress from dense to even
denser and totally incapable of actually keeping to the subject in hand..

Try loading an aircraft spar, notched for pipes, drilled for cables and
supported at only two ends with the deadloads household furniture and the
live loads of persons walking over and see how long it will last.

A rare thing for me, but you are now consigned to the kill-file.

There are no mosquitoes flying today.

The wooden structures simply haven't lasted..

Mind you, they were never designed to anyway.

Average life of a WWII airframe was about 6 weeks in active 'service' IIRC.

Not that this has ANYTHING to do with sawing beams.

But it goes to nail a further bit of harry's coffin down.


They were bing built until the 1950s.
There is was a mosquito flying in the UK til quite recently and
around thirty under restoration in various places.
I have helped on one of them.
http://www.mossie.org/Mosquito_loc.htm

On Jan 13, 8:08*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 13, 1:23*am, NT wrote:

On Jan 12, 2:54*pm, "Man at B&Q" wrote:

On Jan 12, 7:36*am, harry wrote:

I have seen plenty of excessively notched out joists (even from one
end of a room to another) but never seen one actually break as a
result.
The floor just becomes springy.
The cure being to bolt doublers on the sides with glue and/or timber
connectors.
Timber floors are massively over engineered. *They are sized to
prevent excessive deflection rather than actual failure as is a lot of
building material.
I wouldn't have thought that 20mm off a single joist would make a lot
of differerence.

You can saw a joist in 2 and no-ones going anywhere. You just get a
patch where its a bit bouncy.

And it's an old property, probably even more over engineered as they
didn't have the skills to cut everything to the bone like we do today..

MBQ

Actually joists on Victorian properties are way smaller and weaker
than modern houses. Its normally a complete non-issue in practice.

NT

They had better wood in them days than we have but otherwise exactly
so.

Yes. BR today are excessively tight on permitted sag, with Victorian
ceilings routinely grossly violating the pointlessly tight 3mm figure
(IIRC). Modern ceilings rely largely on stiff wood to limit sound
passage, whereas victorian ceilings relied much more on thick heavy
plaster to stop noise.


NT

On Jan 13, 4:48*pm, "Cash"
wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 12, 6:40 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
harry wrote:
On Jan 11, 10:33 pm, "Cash"
wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Cash" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:

I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?

Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist
and screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the
finished height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across
the ply and saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the
reinforcement.

Dennis,

It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but
with all due respects, I think you really are talking through
your hat!

In this case, they reinforcing material should be bolted to the
joist and should, at the very least be of equal thickness to the
original (and *NOT* "several strips of ply") doh!

Well I didn't say how thick the ply is!

Well that really speaks volumes on how little you know about the
subject - or of correctly responding to a post. Read my first post
here in response to the OP, and you will see what my initial
question was (repeated here) - rather vital information for
structural repairs wouldn't you agree?

-----------------------------

GMM,

How long, wide a[nd] [1] deep is the joist itself - (is the
measurment you gave -
the corridor or joist length)?

[1] Error in my OP corrected here
----------------------------

You really shouldn't argue unless you know how thick the ply is,
how long the ply is and what load is on the ply.

Please show me where you specified those dimensions in your
response to the OP's question. Oh, you didn't and as both the OP
and myself have yet to develop ESP, how are we to read your mind?

I can assure you that three pieces of 18 mm ply on either side
would replace 20 mm of a joist.

Now how long and wide should those three pieces of "18mm ply" be,
what glue (and preparation of the joist and ply) would you use [2]
- and what type, length, diameter and metal of screw would you
advise to fix that ply

And just how do you expect a few " bits of ply, screws and glue" to
take the load of a trimmed joist of unspecified size and also
prevent further movement?

[1] Epoxy, PVA, casein, animal - or perhaps the more modern
No-Nails type or even silicone mastic.

And as an old carpenter, I can assure you that unless you used
stress graded plywood, industrial glues, correct mechanical fixings
and design calculations - I would suggest that you are wrong.

And as for advising the reducing any load bearing piece of timber
without being told the size of it, its unsupported span and live
and dead load carrying well...

Well if you are that worried then its a lot better than taking 20
mm off and it will resist further warping.

If you believe that, then you have little knowledge on the actual
mechanics of timber usage in construction work.

I suggest you lookup engineered joists to see just how strong they
can be.

That's a far different animal from the "repair" you suggested.

As for "looking up engineered joists", I studied that subject some
forty five years ago as part of a 5 year City & Guilds indentured
apprenticeship [2] - and used some of the stuff in later years
during works on public buildings.

[2] You do remember those don't you? And you may even have a few
building construction qualifications yourself.

Cash- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you ever looked at the wing structure of a wooden aircraft, you
would be astonished at how strong plywood is along it's plane.

Yep, the old Mosquito really was some aircraft wasn't it - but what
the hell that has to do with cutting of a floor joist really escapes
me.

Well if it escapes you you're pretty thick.
The main spar in a wooden aircraft is truely astonishing if you see
one cut through.
The mosquito was only one of hundreds of designs. Many still flying
and lots of people have to repair them.

Oh and as you are thick, *a joist and an aircraft spar are both beams..
The aircraft spar is taken to the absolute limit of what is possible.

Harry, if it's getting down to gutter level.

You're really not exactly the brightest iron in the fire are you, especially
as you seem to take solutions from other people posts here - and pass them
off as your own.

And as for trying to connect an engineered aircraft spar to a rafter saw
from a single lump of in design terms, then you progress from dense to even
denser and totally incapable of actually keeping to the subject in hand.

Try loading an aircraft spar, notched for pipes, drilled for cables and
supported at only two ends with the deadloads household furniture and the
live loads of persons walking over and see how long it will last.

A rare thing for me, but you are now consigned to the kill-file.

Cash- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well you are thick. The same mathematics applies to all beams.

In message , Cash
?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?@?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.? .?.?.?.?.//.com.invalid
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Cash
?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?@?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.?.? .?.?.?.?.//.com.invalid
writes
GMM wrote:
Well well well....If I'd known it was going to cause such
controversy I would have thought of a different way to ask the
question!! Let everyone be assured that the house won't fall down
because it
has a straight floor and by the time I'm finished it will be
stronger than it was to start with. That, of course, wasn't the
question: I was simply after some suggestions for how I might do a
decent job of cutting the top straight!

I might have to do some off site experiments and see what 'feels'
best between Jim K's power plane, Ghostrecon's router and dennis's
guided saw, though I suspect that whatever I use will be a bit of a
bugger all the way along a joist. I would replace it as suggested
but that would mean I'd have to rewire half the house as pretty
much every cable in the house goes through this joist.

Cheers people

You're welcome GMM.

If you go ahead and decide to cut the joist, have you thought of
using a very sharp axe, cutting with the grain to 'knock' most of
the waste off - and then finish off to the correct height using the
electric planer or even a sharp hand plane?

Just to perhaps cause a little more controversy with one or two here
- if you could get hold of an old adze, that would be even better,
as you could stand up and do the job, and with a sharp tool and a
little bit of practice, get an almost plane-like finish for a
lot-less effort. Just wear a pair of steel toecapped shoes and shin-pads
though while
you're learning. :-)

All the best with a bugger of a job, and let us know how you get on.

You can sharpen a garden Mattock to do the job of an adze.

Don't bevel both faces: grind upper only.

Angle grinder:-)

regards

Never thought of that Tim, bloody good idea for a one off use - but ensure
that there is a slight bow in the blade, round off the corners to prevent
digging in and use an oil stone (or fine flat file) after grinding the edge
to give it a sharp edge.

Works OK:-)

Need to watch the grain direction and try for chips rather than long
slices. I watched some ship builders at Berwick upon Tweed making a
wooden hulled trawler. These memories last!

I often use a powered sander for the final edge. No risk of over heating
the steel.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Cash wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote:
Cash wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:

I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?

Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist and
screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the finished
height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across the ply and
saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the reinforcement.

Dennis,

It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but with
all due respects, I think you really are talking through your hat!


Of all the posters to choose from you had to choose dennis:-)

I like to live dangerously sometimes Adam - and that's about as
dangerous as I can get these days. ROTFL

And taking on harry at the same time?


--
Adam

On Jan 13, 7:44 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
Cash wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote:
Cash wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:

I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?

Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist and
screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the finished
height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across the ply and
saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the reinforcement.

Dennis,

It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but with
all due respects, I think you really are talking through your hat!

Of all the posters to choose from you had to choose dennis:-)

I like to live dangerously sometimes Adam - and that's about as
dangerous as I can get these days. ROTFL

And taking on harry at the same time?

--
Adam

"taking on" implies a challenge....

Jim K

Jim K wrote:
On Jan 13, 7:44 pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
Cash wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote:
Cash wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:

I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?

Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist and
screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the finished
height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across the ply and
saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the
reinforcement.

Dennis,

It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but
with all due respects, I think you really are talking through
your hat!

Of all the posters to choose from you had to choose dennis:-)

I like to live dangerously sometimes Adam - and that's about as
dangerous as I can get these days. ROTFL

And taking on harry at the same time?


"taking on" implies a challenge....

Well harry and dennis are "challenged"
--
Adam

ARWadsworth wrote:
Cash wrote:
ARWadsworth wrote:
Cash wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:34:52 -0800 (PST), GMM wrote:

I thought of putting a circular saw on its side and running it
along but that
doesn't look very feasible.
Any suggestions chaps?

Well I would cut several strips of ply the depth of the joist and
screw + glue them on either side so the tops are at the finished
height. Then I would get a hand saw and lie it across the ply and
saw the top
off. Stager the joints in the ply and use it as the reinforcement.

Dennis,

It's rare for me to openly contradict another poster here, but with
all due respects, I think you really are talking through your hat!


Of all the posters to choose from you had to choose dennis:-)

I like to live dangerously sometimes Adam - and that's about as
dangerous as I can get these days. ROTFL

And taking on harry at the same time?

Of the two Adam, at least Dennis is the least obnoxious - but I suppose
that's life, and where there's rotten wood, things will crawl out of it.
*eg*

Cash