I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

In article ,
ss wrote:
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.


Most power tools use what are called Sub-C cells. They can be bought
individually with 'tags' which allow them to be soldered together. Expect
to pay about 4-5 quid per cell for decent ones. Most electronics suppliers
have them, even Maplin. Be wary of cheap ones from China on Ebay.

--
*If they arrest the Energizer Bunny, would they charge it with battery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
ss wrote:
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.


Most power tools use what are called Sub-C cells. They can be bought
individually with 'tags' which allow them to be soldered together. Expect
to pay about 4-5 quid per cell for decent ones. Most electronics suppliers
have them, even Maplin. Be wary of cheap ones from China on Ebay.

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.
I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Dec 15, 12:26*am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * "Dave Plowman (News)" writes:









In article ,
* *ss wrote:
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v *Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D *?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

Most power tools use what are called Sub-C cells. They can be bought
individually with 'tags' which allow them to be soldered together. Expect
to pay about 4-5 quid per cell for decent ones. Most electronics suppliers
have them, even Maplin. Be wary of cheap ones from China on Ebay.

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.
I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

I've a favourite 9v6 Bosch that needs re-celling, and having just had
a look on Ebay I see that there is really little choice but Chinese
ones. Has anyone found any of these usable or do I have to search
more extensively at home for what might just be the same thing with a
UK mark up on it.

Rob

On Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:33:05 +0000, ss wrote:

I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

No but have a look at the Maplin battery boxes for a couple of
ordinary AA NiMh with the PP9 type contacts on top. It makes a quick
and cheap alternative to tagged C cells and might have the capacity
that you

http://www.maplin.co.uk/aa-size-battery-holders-31427

In article ,
robgraham writes:
On Dec 15, 12:26*am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * "Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
* *ss wrote:
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v *Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D *?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

Most power tools use what are called Sub-C cells. They can be bought
individually with 'tags' which allow them to be soldered together. Expect
to pay about 4-5 quid per cell for decent ones. Most electronics suppliers
have them, even Maplin. Be wary of cheap ones from China on Ebay.

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.
I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

I've a favourite 9v6 Bosch that needs re-celling, and having just had
a look on Ebay I see that there is really little choice but Chinese
ones. Has anyone found any of these usable or do I have to search
more extensively at home for what might just be the same thing with a
UK mark up on it.

I bought from somewhere like CPC, or Maplin, or Farnell (can't
recall now), but whereever it was, was reducing their range of
NiCds. I wanted reasonable quality ones.

I don't think I'd buy rechargables off ebay.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 15/12/2011 00:50, Ericp wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:33:05 +0000, wrote:

I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

No but have a look at the Maplin battery boxes for a couple of
ordinary AA NiMh with the PP9 type contacts on top. It makes a quick
and cheap alternative to tagged C cells and might have the capacity
that you

http://www.maplin.co.uk/aa-size-battery-holders-31427

I`ll pop into maplin tomorrow and have a look, it couldnt have come at a
worst time as I am laying ply for tiling a kitchen and over 1000 screws
to fix! My wrists wont take trying to do manually.

"ss" wrote in message
...
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together in
a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

Does the Bosch website not have recommendations? I got the contact for the
B&D "repair people" and their website had lots of spare parts, including
replacement batteries for my own screwdriver. possibly a little more pricey
than sourcing yourself but "time is money".

Paul DS

In article ,
ss writes:
On 15/12/2011 00:50, Ericp wrote:

No but have a look at the Maplin battery boxes for a couple of
ordinary AA NiMh with the PP9 type contacts on top. It makes a quick
and cheap alternative to tagged C cells and might have the capacity
that you

http://www.maplin.co.uk/aa-size-battery-holders-31427

IME, you won't fit anything into the compartment, except
exactly the batteries it was designed for.

I`ll pop into maplin tomorrow and have a look, it couldnt have come at a
worst time as I am laying ply for tiling a kitchen and over 1000 screws
to fix! My wrists wont take trying to do manually.

For this sort of thing, I put a screwdriver bit into my
SDS drill, which has a good low gear and excellent low
speed control. (Not in hammer mode though;-)
It's much faster than a battery screwdriver.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In message
,
robgraham writes
On Dec 15, 12:26*am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * "Dave Plowman (News)" writes:









In article ,
* *ss wrote:
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v *Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D *?? battery but like 2 joined together
in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

Most power tools use what are called Sub-C cells. They can be bought
individually with 'tags' which allow them to be soldered together. Expect
to pay about 4-5 quid per cell for decent ones. Most electronics suppliers
have them, even Maplin. Be wary of cheap ones from China on Ebay.

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.
I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

I've a favourite 9v6 Bosch that needs re-celling, and having just had
a look on Ebay I see that there is really little choice but Chinese
ones. Has anyone found any of these usable or do I have to search
more extensively at home for what might just be the same thing with a
UK mark up on it.

I have a favourite 9.6V Bosch drill which needed re-celling a few years
ago. Somebody in here recommended a re-cell company (possibly
recellyourbattery.com). In the event, they were able to supply a
complete replacement for little more than the re-celling charge plus
postage.

With the move away from ni-cad, things may have changed.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Thu, 15 Dec 2011 08:18:32 -0000, "Paul D Smith"
wrote:

"ss" wrote in message
...
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together in
a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

Does the Bosch website not have recommendations? I got the contact for the
B&D "repair people" and their website had lots of spare parts, including
replacement batteries for my own screwdriver. possibly a little more pricey
than sourcing yourself but "time is money".

It's probably cheaper to buy an whole new drill/driver.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Due to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking some articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I`ll pop into maplin tomorrow and have a look, it couldnt have come at
a worst time as I am laying ply for tiling a kitchen and over 1000
screws to fix! My wrists wont take trying to do manually.

For this sort of thing, I put a screwdriver bit into my
SDS drill, which has a good low gear and excellent low
speed control. (Not in hammer mode though;-)
It's much faster than a battery screwdriver.

For general screwdriving a drill designed for it would be just fine. The
pukka small power screwdrivers can be quite useful for smaller jobs where
space is limited. The impact Makita TD020D does both jobs - but was
yesterday's must have as I've not seen them on sale recently.

--
*If they arrest the Energizer Bunny, would they charge it with battery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:26:24 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.

Not really provided you take care over the charging.

I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

Same here ancient B&D straight screwdriver, damn excellent bit of
kit. Recelled twice now, last time with NiMH. It's the primative
(even for NiCds) charger that lets it down and kills the cells. I
must build a decent charger for it. Though just remembering to only
charge for at most 24hrs at a time and not to leave it in the
de-powered charger bracket works well enough.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 15/12/2011 15:06, Mark wrote:
On Thu, 15 Dec 2011 08:18:32 -0000, "Paul D Smith"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead.
Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511
0 603 927 028

The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together in
a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.

Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.

Does the Bosch website not have recommendations? I got the contact for the
B&D "repair people" and their website had lots of spare parts, including
replacement batteries for my own screwdriver. possibly a little more pricey
than sourcing yourself but "time is money".

It's probably cheaper to buy an whole new drill/driver.

As I needed one urgently I went to screwfix for a £22 cheapo, out of
stock so nipped in to B&Q and got one for £14, ideal for what I want and
probably cheaper than batteries for the old one, I dont use them often
so should last a few years.

thanks to all for the replies. Much appreciated.

In article o.uk,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
On Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:26:24 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.

Not really provided you take care over the charging.

I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

Same here ancient B&D straight screwdriver, damn excellent bit of
kit. Recelled twice now, last time with NiMH. It's the primative
(even for NiCds) charger that lets it down and kills the cells. I
must build a decent charger for it. Though just remembering to only
charge for at most 24hrs at a time and not to leave it in the
de-powered charger bracket works well enough.

I think we have exactly the same one!
It's got a very clever automatic spindle lock built into the tail
end of the gearbox (which I didn't actually appreciate until I had
the gearbox in pieces one day). If the motor is driving the bit
(in either direction), it rotates freely. If the bit it trying to
drive the gearbox (as happens if you try using it as a manual
screwdriver), it instantly locks the bit solid. It has a set of
rollers in something which looks a bit like a minature wankel
engine, relying on the rollers jamming or not, to engage or
disengage the locking of the bit to the case. It was a bugger
to reassemble. I initially gave up, being unable to see what
that part did. Then I found I couldn't use it as a manual
screwdriver as it tended to cause the motor to spin instead.
Took it all apart again, and with much difficulty, managed to
get all the rods back in place, and it was working again.

I'm sure that locking mechanism must have a name, and probably
a patent too.

Charger is just an AC wall wart, with a half-wave rectifying
diode in the holder which makes contact with the charging
contacts. Amazingly, I have actually got long life and lots
of use out of each set of batteries.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 01:44:11 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I think we have exactly the same one!

B&D 9019

It's got a very clever automatic spindle lock built into the tail
end of the gearbox

ISTR having a bit of fun getting it all back together as well.
Charger is just an AC wall wart, with a half-wave rectifying
diode in the holder which makes contact with the charging
contacts.

That sums it up, the charge rate is almost but not quite "safe" but
if you switch the power off the leakage is enough to drain things
over a month. NiCds don't like that...

--
Cheers
Dave.

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article o.uk,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
On Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:26:24 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH.

Not really provided you take care over the charging.

I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have
replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really
like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've
played with.

Same here ancient B&D straight screwdriver, damn excellent bit of
kit. Recelled twice now, last time with NiMH. It's the primative
(even for NiCds) charger that lets it down and kills the cells. I
must build a decent charger for it. Though just remembering to only
charge for at most 24hrs at a time and not to leave it in the
de-powered charger bracket works well enough.

I think we have exactly the same one!
It's got a very clever automatic spindle lock built into the tail
end of the gearbox (which I didn't actually appreciate until I had
the gearbox in pieces one day). If the motor is driving the bit
(in either direction), it rotates freely. If the bit it trying to
drive the gearbox (as happens if you try using it as a manual
screwdriver), it instantly locks the bit solid. It has a set of
rollers in something which looks a bit like a minature wankel
engine, relying on the rollers jamming or not, to engage or
disengage the locking of the bit to the case. It was a bugger
to reassemble. I initially gave up, being unable to see what
that part did. Then I found I couldn't use it as a manual
screwdriver as it tended to cause the motor to spin instead.
Took it all apart again, and with much difficulty, managed to
get all the rods back in place, and it was working again.

I'm sure that locking mechanism must have a name, and probably
a patent too.

Sounds like a sprag clutch variant.

Charger is just an AC wall wart, with a half-wave rectifying
diode in the holder which makes contact with the charging
contacts. Amazingly, I have actually got long life and lots
of use out of each set of batteries.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 09:39:32 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

I'm sure that locking mechanism must have a name, and probably
a patent too.

Sounds like a sprag clutch variant.

Yep.

In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
I think we have exactly the same one!
It's got a very clever automatic spindle lock built into the tail
end of the gearbox (which I didn't actually appreciate until I had
the gearbox in pieces one day). If the motor is driving the bit
(in either direction), it rotates freely. If the bit it trying to
drive the gearbox (as happens if you try using it as a manual
screwdriver), it instantly locks the bit solid. It has a set of
rollers in something which looks a bit like a minature wankel
engine, relying on the rollers jamming or not, to engage or
disengage the locking of the bit to the case. It was a bugger
to reassemble. I initially gave up, being unable to see what
that part did. Then I found I couldn't use it as a manual
screwdriver as it tended to cause the motor to spin instead.
Took it all apart again, and with much difficulty, managed to
get all the rods back in place, and it was working again.

I'm sure that locking mechanism must have a name, and probably
a patent too.

Sounds like a sprag clutch variant.

[googles]
possibly, but most of the descriptions of sprag clutches
definitely don't match. I found just one which does:

http://www.industrialmagza.com/pdf/F...54-057-MGZ.pdf

although the mechanics of how it works are not the same.

So it's a bidirectional back-stopping clutch. You can drive
power through it either clockwise or anti-clockwise from one
side, but it instantly locks solid if you try to drive
power (clockwise or anti-clockwise) through it in the other
direction.

Most of the sprag clutch descriptions talk about freewheeling,
and this one doesn't do that in any mode.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
I think we have exactly the same one!
It's got a very clever automatic spindle lock built into the tail
end of the gearbox (which I didn't actually appreciate until I had
the gearbox in pieces one day). If the motor is driving the bit
(in either direction), it rotates freely. If the bit it trying to
drive the gearbox (as happens if you try using it as a manual
screwdriver), it instantly locks the bit solid. It has a set of
rollers in something which looks a bit like a minature wankel
engine, relying on the rollers jamming or not, to engage or
disengage the locking of the bit to the case. It was a bugger
to reassemble. I initially gave up, being unable to see what
that part did. Then I found I couldn't use it as a manual
screwdriver as it tended to cause the motor to spin instead.
Took it all apart again, and with much difficulty, managed to
get all the rods back in place, and it was working again.

I'm sure that locking mechanism must have a name, and probably
a patent too.
Sounds like a sprag clutch variant.

[googles]
possibly, but most of the descriptions of sprag clutches
definitely don't match. I found just one which does:

http://www.industrialmagza.com/pdf/F...54-057-MGZ.pdf

although the mechanics of how it works are not the same.

So it's a bidirectional back-stopping clutch. You can drive
power through it either clockwise or anti-clockwise from one
side, but it instantly locks solid if you try to drive
power (clockwise or anti-clockwise) through it in the other
direction.

Most of the sprag clutch descriptions talk about freewheeling,
and this one doesn't do that in any mode.

That's correct. I built a basic sprag clutch out of Meccano years
ago..fascinating - and that was a free wheeler, but a double sprag
clutch becomes a unidirectional torque transfer device.

(Its a sad day when my dictionary for the spill chucker doesn't feature
either sprag, or Meccano..or indeed chucker :-))

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
(Its a sad day when my dictionary for the spill chucker doesn't feature
either sprag, or Meccano..or indeed chucker :-))

The checker on this RISC OS machine includes the first two. But then it is
an English one. ;-)

--
*Why isn't there a special name for the back of your knee?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
(Its a sad day when my dictionary for the spill chucker doesn't feature
either sprag, or Meccano..or indeed chucker :-))

The checker on this RISC OS machine includes the first two. But then it is
an English one. ;-)

I guess this is Mozillas 'English English dictionary'

Or maybe it taps into some Linux one..

Hmm I don't actually KNOW.

On Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:31:51 -0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
(Its a sad day when my dictionary for the spill chucker doesn't
feature either sprag, or Meccano..or indeed chucker :-))
The checker on this RISC OS machine includes the first two. But then
it is
an English one. ;-)

I guess this is Mozillas 'English English dictionary'

Or maybe it taps into some Linux one..

Hmm I don't actually KNOW.

Guarantee it is better than IE's spelling checker. :-)

--
Rod

On 23/12/11 00:31, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
(Its a sad day when my dictionary for the spill chucker doesn't
feature either sprag, or Meccano..or indeed chucker :-))

The checker on this RISC OS machine includes the first two. But then
it is
an English one. ;-)

I guess this is Mozillas 'English English dictionary'

Or maybe it taps into some Linux one..

Hmm I don't actually KNOW.


Could be the default US dictionary. Check tools:add-ons:languages for
the en-GB language pack.

also
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-us/thunderbird/addon/british-english-dictionary/


--
djc