I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 21:10:15 -0000, Mark
wrote:

I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

If it really is not convenient to go and get a pack of olives you could
give it a go. Might be easier than risking marking the pipe while getting
the old olive off. Do however make sure that the old nut and new tap have
the same thread.

Olives do however seem to get harder with age and having adjusted to one
connector may not be happy adjusting to another. By all means use ptfe
tape on the threads to aid tightening.

On 08/12/11 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.
I've done that, and it was fine. No guarantee though.

On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

Yes, it will normally be OK.

The existing olive will likely be crimped onto the pipe in a
non-removeable way.

With any luck, the new fitting will have a similar depth so the pipe
will go in to a depth where the existing olive will seal. Also, with
some luck the thread will be the same, so the captive nut will fit the
new fitting.

If not, tough. You'll need to cut the pipe and splice it.

Tape ought not be necessary, but can help in marginal cases.

--
R

"Ron Lowe" wrote in message
...
On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.


Should be okay, but to be safer, I would use PTFE on the theads AND Boss
White around the olive ...... in the end, there is no guarantee of it
sealing without new tube and olive etc ..... then again, you could use an
olive puller to get the olive off ..... but the tube will have crimped where
the olive was !
Boss White the best answer in this case I think.
Dave B

On Dec 8, 11:11*pm, "Dave" wrote:
"Ron Lowe" wrote in message

...

On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

Should be okay, but to be safer, I would use PTFE on the theads AND Boss
White around the olive ...... in the end, there is no guarantee of it
sealing without new tube and olive etc ..... then again, you could use an
olive puller to get the olive off ..... but the tube will have crimped where
the olive was !
Boss White the best answer in this case I think.
Dave B

The olive work hardens, so is less likely to seal than when new. Use a
new one, a few pence.
If you have to re-use one, a smear of jointing compound or a few turns
of PTFE tape should help it seal if it leaks. Tape on the threads of
compression joints doesn't do anything, the seal if formed by the
olive.

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 23:18:33 -0000, Onetap wrote:

On Dec 8, 11:11 pm, "Dave" wrote:
"Ron Lowe" wrote in message

...

On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

Should be okay, but to be safer, I would use PTFE on the theads AND Boss
White around the olive ...... in the end, there is no guarantee of it
sealing without new tube and olive etc ..... then again, you could use
an
olive puller to get the olive off ..... but the tube will have crimped
where
the olive was !
Boss White the best answer in this case I think.
Dave B

The olive work hardens, so is less likely to seal than when new. Use a
new one, a few pence.
If you have to re-use one, a smear of jointing compound or a few turns
of PTFE tape should help it seal if it leaks. Tape on the threads of
compression joints doesn't do anything, the seal if formed by the
olive.

I use ptfe tape on the threads because it is a lubricant and allows more
pressure to be applied to the olive with no more torque on the nut and tap.

"Hugh - Was Invisible" wrote in message
newsp.v56v4eoagtk8fg@admin-pc...
On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 21:10:15 -0000, Mark
wrote:

I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

If it really is not convenient to go and get a pack of olives you could
give it a go. Might be easier than risking marking the pipe while getting
the old olive off. Do however make sure that the old nut and new tap have
the same thread.

Olives do however seem to get harder with age and having adjusted to one
connector may not be happy adjusting to another. By all means use ptfe
tape on the threads to aid tightening.

I've never managed to remove an olive, luckily the threads have always been
the same.

On Dec 8, 9:10*pm, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

You can do that, as long as the pipe doesn't need trimming back, but
dont expect the olive to seal. I like linseed putty to create a seal,
it behaves well in plumbing (and isnt hard to remove later), and has
other uses as a sealant and filler, and is cheap. PTFE might make the
seal, but it wouldnt be high on my list of choices for what may be a
rough or scarred surface.


NT

On Fri, 9 Dec 2011 00:09:10 -0000, "brass monkey" wrote:


"Hugh - Was Invisible" wrote in message
newsp.v56v4eoagtk8fg@admin-pc...
On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 21:10:15 -0000, Mark
wrote:

I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

If it really is not convenient to go and get a pack of olives you could
give it a go. Might be easier than risking marking the pipe while getting
the old olive off. Do however make sure that the old nut and new tap have
the same thread.

Olives do however seem to get harder with age and having adjusted to one
connector may not be happy adjusting to another. By all means use ptfe
tape on the threads to aid tightening.

I've never managed to remove an olive, luckily the threads have always been
the same.

The problem is that the old olive does dig into the copper pipe a bit,
so even if you do get the olive off you'll have to get the new one in
the same place to avoid a leak.
The way I (occasionally) remove the old one is to (using a junior
hacksaw) cut it at some 45 degrees being very careful not to touch the
pipe with the saw, then twist a smallish screwdriver in the saw slot
to crack/split it.
TBH if it's been there a long time the olive will be more or less cold
welded to the pipe...

Most of my messing about with compression fittings is making pseudo
gasoliers (electrically powered), so I'm more concerned with earth
continuity (and physical rigidity) than hydraulic leaks :-)

--
Frank Erskine

In message , Doctor Drivel
writes

Should be okay, but to be safer, I would use PTFE on the theads AND Boss
White around the olive ...... in the end, there is no guarantee of it
sealing without new tube and olive etc ..... then again, you could
use an
olive puller to get the olive off ..... but the tube will have
crimped where
the olive was !
Boss White the best answer in this case I think.
Dave B

The olive work hardens, so is less likely to seal than when new. Use a
new one, a few pence.
If you have to re-use one, a smear of jointing compound or a few turns
of PTFE tape should help it seal if it leaks. Tape on the threads of
compression joints doesn't do anything, the seal if formed by the
olive.

I use ptfe tape on the threads because it is a lubricant and allows
more pressure to be applied to the olive with no more torque on the
nut and tap.

PFTE on the threads does sweet nothing. It is also a parallel thread.

If anyone knows all about leaks and flooding, it's you eh?

--
geoff

On Dec 8, 9:10*pm, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

With luck on your side. You may need to trim the pipe tail if the new
fitting is a shorter depth than the old. Give the olive a clean up
with wire wool.

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Better to get the olive smooth and then grease it with soap. Don't
overdo the spanner when tightening, remember there is nothing to crimp
this time around.

In article ,
Mark writes:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

It's usually worth trying to keep the existing olive first.
Compression fittings should not have any additional sealant applied.

If the compression fitting has been buggered up, then you can try
adding PTFE tape to pack out the seal, but that's not really a
compression joint anymore - it's a hacked repair job, but often
acceptable. However, never do this with gas - a hacked repair job
is be illegal. Gas must be a proper compression fitting with no
additional sealant at all, and if it's not sealing, it must be
completely remade correctly.

A few weeks ago, I had to repair some compression fittings which
started leaking about a year after being fitted. Same failure with
them all - the plumber used some sort of sealant. The water had
gradually forced the sealant out, and after a year (i.e. after
he's been paid and long gone), the joints all started leaking.
All I needed to do was clean off all the sealant, and reassemble.
Now the joints are properly sealed. However, use of sealant can
distort sealing surfaces in compression fittings and prevent them
ever working again properly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article m, brass
monkey wrote:

"Hugh - Was Invisible" wrote in message
newsp.v56v4eoagtk8fg@admin-pc...
On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 21:10:15 -0000, Mark
wrote:

I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

If it really is not convenient to go and get a pack of olives you could
give it a go. Might be easier than risking marking the pipe while
getting the old olive off. Do however make sure that the old nut and
new tap have the same thread.

Olives do however seem to get harder with age and having adjusted to
one connector may not be happy adjusting to another. By all means use
ptfe tape on the threads to aid tightening.

I've never managed to remove an olive, luckily the threads have always
been the same.

often the olive compresses the pipe, making its removal, by sliding,
impossible. I have recently bought an "olive cutter" which is used to
break the olive so that it really will come off.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.16

On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

IME, this is a suck and see situation. Try it first just using the
original fittings, as they are. There is a fairly good chance that it
will work without any problems. If not, you can try bodging it with PTFE
tape or sealant, or you can cut back the pipe behind the old olive, to
remove the section the olive will have damaged, clean up the pipe and
make the joint with all new parts.

Colin Bignell

On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

If you have enough spare pipe then cut it off and start fresh.
No harm in trying first to see if it seals.
I wouldn't use PTFE on the threads of compression joints but if clamping
onto an already used olive/tail (like when replacing radiator valves
etc) I have alwaysstretched a few wraps of PTFE (thin not gas thick
stuff) around the olive.
Once an olive has been fitted to a pipe In My Experience it's a waste of
time and effort trying to remove the old and fit a new to the same pipe
you gotta cut it all back and add a new short stub of copper and go from
scratch.
Finally a tube of Fernox LS-X will make most bum jobs seal, well worth
having a tube in your DIY plumming kit.

NT wrote:

On Dec 8, 9:10 pm, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

You can do that, as long as the pipe doesn't need trimming back, but
dont expect the olive to seal.


I like linseed putty

That's basically what Boss White is, isn't it - judging by the smell?



--
Tim Watts

Doctor Drivel wrote:


"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Mark writes:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

It's usually worth trying to keep the existing olive first.
Compression fittings should not have any additional sealant applied.

That sounds very amateurish - reading the makers blurb. One company will
sack some plumbers if they do not put a smear of Jet Blue on compression
fittings. Why? Because they tend to weep after a time. I know no pipe
fitter who does not smear the olive and seating with sealant.

Is this the Drivel HandtPlumber's business?

I never use anything on new pipe and olives. For "difficult" pipe like
chromed copper, I use brass olives, not copper, and veer to undertightening
the joint then apply a few tweaks to stop any final weeping. Plain copper
pipe has never caused me any problems. Only time I've every needed to bodge
a joint was redoing old ones.

Probably cheap and nasty Boss White. Buy proper sealants. Do not buy
Fernox LSX which is little more than silicon.

LSX is not for copper work at all. Has its uses on drain/overflow fittings
though.
--
Tim Watts

In article ,
"Doctor Drivel" writes:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Mark writes:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

It's usually worth trying to keep the existing olive first.
Compression fittings should not have any additional sealant applied.

That sounds very amateurish - reading the makers blurb. One company will
sack some plumbers if they do not put a smear of Jet Blue on compression
fittings. Why? Because they tend to weep after a time. I know no pipe
fitter who does not smear the olive and seating with sealant.

Actually, it's because they are using untrained/unqualified plumbers,
who don't understand how compression fittings work or how to use them.
Unfortunately, that's very common, which is why leaky compression
fittings are not uncommon.

Lubricating the non-sealing surfaces such as the threads and the
half of the olive further out from the joint would be OK with a
water connection. For lubrication, you want a lubricant, not a
sealant.

However, it's illegal with gas as you can't prove you didn't get
it into the sealing surfaces which must be dry and clean, or the
joint won't conform to the British Standard, which is a legal
requirement for gas work.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
"Doctor Drivel" writes:

"Hugh - Was Invisible" wrote in message
newsp.v56227bpgtk8fg@admin-pc...
I use ptfe tape on the threads because it is a lubricant and allows more
pressure to be applied to the olive with no more torque on the nut and
tap.

PFTE on the threads does sweet nothing. It is also a parallel thread.

It's a lubricant, and as a solid and very visible lubricant, it
makes it easier to make sure it doesn't get into the sealing
surfaces. Also, if you have to strip apart and reassemble for any
reason, it's easily all removed for cleanup, again to make sure
it doesn't get into the sealing surfaces.

One or two turns of the thin PTFE is all that's required, as you
don't want to jam the screw thread which would be counter productive.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

[Snip]

However, it's illegal with gas as you can't prove you didn't get
it into the sealing surfaces which must be dry and clean, or the
joint won't conform to the British Standard, which is a legal
requirement for gas work.

Then why is there "Gas PTFE" tape on the market?

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.16

On Dec 9, 9:37*am, Tim Watts wrote:
NT wrote:
On Dec 8, 9:10 pm, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

You can do that, as long as the pipe doesn't need trimming back, but
dont expect the olive to seal.
I like linseed putty

That's basically what Boss White is, isn't it - judging by the smell?

--
Tim Watts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Whiting and Linseed oil - exactly right but why expect sense?

In article ,
charles writes:
In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

[Snip]

However, it's illegal with gas as you can't prove you didn't get
it into the sealing surfaces which must be dry and clean, or the
joint won't conform to the British Standard, which is a legal
requirement for gas work.

Then why is there "Gas PTFE" tape on the market?

It's for gas joints which require a sealant, such as screwed joints
which are designed to seal along the thread (unlike compression fittings).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 09/12/2011 09:41, Tim Watts wrote:
Doctor Drivel wrote:
....
That sounds very amateurish - reading the makers blurb. One company will
sack some plumbers if they do not put a smear of Jet Blue on compression
fittings. Why? Because they tend to weep after a time. I know no pipe
fitter who does not smear the olive and seating with sealant.

Is this the Drivel HandtPlumber's business?

Sounds like it.

I never use anything on new pipe and olives. For "difficult" pipe like
chromed copper, I use brass olives, not copper, and veer to undertightening
the joint then apply a few tweaks to stop any final weeping....

You can remove the chrome by heating the end of pipe, then dipping it
into concentrated hydrochloric acid as far as you need it clear.
Obviously, this needs to be done with great care and while wearing such
personal safety equipment as you feel is necessary.

Colin Bignell

On Dec 9, 9:37*am, Tim Watts wrote:
NT wrote:
On Dec 8, 9:10 pm, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

You can do that, as long as the pipe doesn't need trimming back, but
dont expect the olive to seal.
I like linseed putty

That's basically what Boss White is, isn't it - judging by the smell?

Its been ages since I used that stuff. The 2 main ingredients in
linseed putty are edible, but the chemical drier isnt.


NT

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Doctor Drivel" writes:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Mark writes:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

It's usually worth trying to keep the existing olive first.
Compression fittings should not have any additional sealant applied.

That sounds very amateurish - reading the makers blurb. One company will
sack some plumbers if they do not put a smear of Jet Blue on compression
fittings. Why? Because they tend to weep after a time. I know no pipe
fitter who does not smear the olive and seating with sealant.

Actually, it's because they are using untrained/unqualified plumbers,

Actually it because you are an amateur who thinks he knows it all.

The OP is best only to read my posts on this. He will not go wrong.

So if he follows your advice on cutting PEX tube he won't have a leaking
mess? Odd that when you tried it you ended up with a massive leak because
of your inability to read an instruction leaflet, innit?

On Fri, 9 Dec 2011 13:32:39 -0000, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:

Oh look! A knobhead!

You forgot to include the dashdashspace before your sig.



--
Regards, Paul Herber, Sandrila Ltd.
http://www.sandrila.co.uk/

On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 13:41:21 +0000, Paul Herber wrote:

On Fri, 9 Dec 2011 13:32:39 -0000, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:

Oh look! A knobhead!

You forgot to include the dashdashspace before your sig.

lol nice one
--
(º€¢.¸(¨*€¢.¸ ¸.€¢*¨)¸.€¢Âº)
.€¢Â°€¢. Nik .€¢Â°€¢.
(¸.€¢Âº(¸.€¢Â¨* *¨€¢.¸)º€¢.¸)

On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:13:21 +0000, Nightjar wrote:

IME, this is a suck and see situation. Try it first just using the
original fittings, as they are.

Agreed, if the original fitter hasn't murdered the thing up it'll
probably be OK but if there are signs that the tube has deformed the
chances are very much slimmer that it will be OK to reuse.

Getting old olives off, you can get pullers that utilise the nut but
I can't see them working particularly well if the tube is deformed at
all. Olive cutters are available, they should work but if the tube is
deformed you'll probably have to cut it back anyway... Same with a 45
degree junior hack saw cut and twisting screwdriver.

Bottom line if the joint was only just nipped up then reuse is a
distinct possibilty if really tightened then probably not. A clue
will be given by how easy the nut is to loosen, if you just nudge it
with a spanner and off it comes with your fingers that is good for
reuse.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 09/12/2011 11:46, Doctor Drivel wrote:

Use Jet Blue, what the pros trend to use and not available in DIY
outlets, or liquid PFTE if you have time to let it cure - 30 mins. I
have found LS-X is not that good a sealant.

Well it got me out of a number of fixes.
One where I had a 1" (or inch and a 1/4 ?)pipe embedded in the chimney
that I couldn't get enough heat into to stop a weeping solder joint (on
the blind side of the pipe) after changing parkray solid fuel back
boiler for Gas fire/boiler with metric pipe.
Held fine for the next 5 years that I owned the house, probably still
there to this date.

Also when a pin-hole appeared in shop heating copper pipe above
suspended ceiling. Evostick "quick leak repair putty" wouldn't stick but
a dab of LS-X and some wraps of self amalgamating tape job sorted. That
was at least 4 years ago and heating is run hot 8 hours a day 5 days a
week from autumn through spring.

Not to mention a few dodgy compression joints with not enough tail from
floor to facilitate effective repair/replacement (without major upheaval)

I'd rather use something I know will always remain pliable for a bodge
where required than linseed putty which will without fail go hard at
some point in it's life an run the risk of failure when no-one is around.

May be more expensive than regular silicone but takes up no space in the
kit bag so is there when you really need a quick fix.
Only saying....

--
http://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - Fitness+Gym Equipment.
http://www.bodysolid-gym-equipment.co.uk
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk
http://www.water-rower.co.uk

..

On 09/12/2011 00:29, Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Hugh - Was Invisible" wrote in message
newsp.v56227bpgtk8fg@admin-pc...
On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 23:18:33 -0000, Onetap wrote:

On Dec 8, 11:11 pm, "Dave" wrote:
"Ron Lowe" wrote in message

...

On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

Should be okay, but to be safer, I would use PTFE on the theads AND
Boss
White around the olive ...... in the end, there is no guarantee of it
sealing without new tube and olive etc ..... then again, you could
use an
olive puller to get the olive off ..... but the tube will have
crimped where
the olive was !
Boss White the best answer in this case I think.
Dave B

The olive work hardens, so is less likely to seal than when new. Use a
new one, a few pence.
If you have to re-use one, a smear of jointing compound or a few turns
of PTFE tape should help it seal if it leaks. Tape on the threads of
compression joints doesn't do anything, the seal if formed by the
olive.

I use ptfe tape on the threads because it is a lubricant and allows
more pressure to be applied to the olive with no more torque on the
nut and tap.

Gosh, when did they let you out dribble?

PFTE on the threads does sweet nothing. It is also a parallel thread.

It being one of the most slippery substances around actually works very
well as a lubricant. It also stays where you put it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Nightjar wrote:

On 09/12/2011 09:41, Tim Watts wrote:
Doctor Drivel wrote:
...
That sounds very amateurish - reading the makers blurb. One company
will sack some plumbers if they do not put a smear of Jet Blue on
compression
fittings. Why? Because they tend to weep after a time. I know no pipe
fitter who does not smear the olive and seating with sealant.

Is this the Drivel HandtPlumber's business?

Sounds like it.

I never use anything on new pipe and olives. For "difficult" pipe like
chromed copper, I use brass olives, not copper, and veer to
undertightening the joint then apply a few tweaks to stop any final
weeping....

You can remove the chrome by heating the end of pipe, then dipping it
into concentrated hydrochloric acid as far as you need it clear.
Obviously, this needs to be done with great care and while wearing such
personal safety equipment as you feel is necessary.

I've not found a reason to go that far (except for soldering). It takes a
lot more welly, but a brass olive will bite into a chrome pipe. I
disassmeble the first joint I did to make sure it did and guage the amount
of torgue for the rest of the joints.

I doubt a copper olive would, or not no easily.

--
Tim Watts

..

Doctor Drivel wrote:


"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...

I never use anything on new pipe and olives.

But you an idiot amateur who expects the pipe and fitting to precision
made.

That's why the olive is designed to conform, to account for lack of
precision.

Unless you are unable to tighten it sufficiently due to say, being limp
wristed after a lifetime of masturbating behind vending machine at the shed
you work in.

Pro use sealant on all compression joints. Another tip is use
quality
products like Conex, who the extra. Some hospitals only specify Conex or
Kutelite. Look at the prices, look at the fitting and you see why. But
you need quality pipe as well for them to seal properly "without" sealant.
Pipe
fitters still put a smear of Jet Blue on them as well to be sure. The
last thing they want is a drain down because of a weep.

They are either incompetant, or as you allude to, buying cheap very crap
fittings - something I do avoid.



LSX is not for copper work at all. Has its uses on drain/overflow
fittings though.

Look at the sales blurb. It is cheaper to buy a quality clear silicon tube
which is massive in size.

Dr Pinko's Pink Pills to cure gayness probably came with impressive posters
promising the world, too. Your point being?


--
Tim Watts

..

On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 14:39:15 -0000, Dave Liquorice
wrote:

On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 09:13:21 +0000, Nightjar wrote:

IME, this is a suck and see situation. Try it first just using the
original fittings, as they are.

Agreed, if the original fitter hasn't murdered the thing up it'll
probably be OK but if there are signs that the tube has deformed the
chances are very much slimmer that it will be OK to reuse.

Getting old olives off, you can get pullers that utilise the nut but
I can't see them working particularly well if the tube is deformed at
all. Olive cutters are available, they should work but if the tube is
deformed you'll probably have to cut it back anyway... Same with a 45
degree junior hack saw cut and twisting screwdriver.

Bottom line if the joint was only just nipped up then reuse is a
distinct possibilty if really tightened then probably not. A clue
will be given by how easy the nut is to loosen, if you just nudge it
with a spanner and off it comes with your fingers that is good for
reuse.

I've probably been lucky but I have cut quite a few olives off with a 45
degree cut with a junior hacksaw finished off with a screwdriver. So far
they have all worked even where there was an indentation made by the old
olive. The first one was where a very short pipe emerged from a concrete
floor with no room to cut back. That worked so I carried on.

..

In article , Tim Watts wrote:

LSX is not for copper work at all.

Why not?
http://www.fernox.com/products/tradi...compounds/ls-x
says "Ideal for use on compression joints and screwed fittings".
(I agree it shouldn't be necessary with new joints on new pipe.)

See also http://community.screwfix.com/message/75034

On Dec 9, 11:41*am, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message

...

In article ,
"Doctor Drivel" writes:

"Hugh - Was Invisible" wrote in message
newsp.v56227bpgtk8fg@admin-pc...
I use ptfe tape on the threads because it is a lubricant and allows more
pressure to be applied to the olive with no more torque on the nut and
tap.

PFTE on the threads does sweet nothing. It is also a parallel thread.

It's a lubricant,

So are some sealants. Putting PTFE on the threads does not make a seal

Thanks for confirming what everyone else is saying.

most think it does. The PTFE can prevent the nut from being fully home.

Possible, but unlikely.

But! *PTFE on a compressed olive can make the seal.

Thanks for confirming what everyone else is saying.

On Dec 8, 11:30*pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message

...











"Ron Lowe" wrote in message
...
On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

Should be okay, but to be safer, I would use PTFE on the theads AND Boss
White around the olive

Boss White is antiquated. *Best not use. *Most pros use Jet Blue. Best to
use the PTFE tape and liquid PTFE on the threads.

"When I see PTFE on the threads of a fitting I think an odd-job man or
amateur. " Dribble 11:41am 09/12/11

"Mark" wrote in message
...
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

When I was a lad we knocked the olives off with a file and reused them.
There was never any problems.
We used jointing paste, never PTFE. The plumber I served my time with was
old school.

On 9 Dec, 09:13, Nightjar wrote:
On 08/12/2011 21:10, Mark wrote:

I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

IME, this is a suck and see situation. Try it first just using the
original fittings, as they are. There is a fairly good chance that it
will work without any problems. If not, you can try bodging it with PTFE
tape or sealant, or you can cut back the pipe behind the old olive, to
remove the section the olive will have damaged, clean up the pipe and
make the joint with all new parts.

Colin Bignell

Thanks.

I tried the job before most of these replies appeared. I gave the old
olive (didn't look too badly deformed, and span freely on pipe) about
three wraps of PTFE, fitted new tap and tightened up- easier than
usual due to the olive already used I guess. Anyway, opened the
stopcock, tested washer with a bit of kitchen roll underneath the new
joint - bone dry )

Sorted. Thanks all for input.

Mr Pounder wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
...
I have an angled washing machine valve to replace the straight one
currently fitted.

Can I isolate the supply, remove old tap and replace with new, re-
using the olive and nut from the existing one?

I have PTFE tape, maybe a couple of turns will help?

Thoughts please?

Thanks.

When I was a lad we knocked the olives off with a file and reused them.
There was never any problems.
We used jointing paste, never PTFE. The plumber I served my time with was
old school.

I always remove old olives using the nut from the fitting as a sort of
slide hammer. With the addition of a spanner that is a fairly close
fit around the pipe you can, in addition, tap it off with a hammer.
I've found this can get most olives off unless they're really
seriously embedded in the pipe. It feels like it might tend to embed
the olive into the pipe more but this doesn't seem to happen in practice.

--
Chris Green