Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.
But are these fittings a standard size?

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving them a
fraction? Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here

Thanks,
Paul DS.

In article ,
"Paul D Smith" writes:
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.
But are these fittings a standard size?

No.
The eyeball ones use larger holes.
There are also MR16 lamps designed to retrofit into R63 holes.

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving them a
fraction? Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here

Fill the holes, and install proper lighting instead.
You don't want holes punched through ceilings, particularly bathrooms
and kitchens, and both these rooms need high quality lighting, which
is impossible with downlighters.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Nov 15, 8:44*am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * "Paul D Smith" writes:









Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. *The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.

On Nov 15, 8:35*am, "Paul D Smith" wrote:
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. *The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.
But are these fittings a standard size?

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving them a
fraction? *Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here

Thanks,
Paul DS.

For making up a hole in plasterboard, I have used two pieces of
plaster board. One to fit the hole and one bigger glued on to it.
This can be glued in place, obviously with the bigger piece on top.
After the glue has set, cut a new hole.
Or alternatively if the hole is only slightly too big just glue an
oversize piece of plasterboard behind the hole and when it has set,
make up round the periphery with plaster. When set, cut the new
smaller hole.
For glue I use the thicker PVA glue.

"Paul D Smith" wrote in message
...
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. The main body of the light literally "springs" into the
hole and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder"
section with the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot
and in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in
places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do
I ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.
But are these fittings a standard size?

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving them a
fraction? Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here


As long as the fittings have the reach for slightly thicker plaster board,
you might consider a plate made from thin ply with the correct sized hole
fixed above the current plasterboard.
Not sure what temperatures are achieved around the fitting so other less
flammable material might be better?
Ah yes - I have a spare asbestos cement sheet you could have ;-)

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Nov 15, 9:24*am, harry wrote:
On Nov 15, 8:35*am, "Paul D Smith" wrote:





Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. *The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.

Large stainless (or other decorative material) washers with the right
internal size and outer big enough to cover hole ?

Umm, interesting thought. Wonder is one of the local sheds has some
suitable plate? Cutting it into a washer could be interested.

Paul DS

On Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:35:22 +0000, Paul D Smith wrote:
3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how
do I ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint
free" ceiling?

Brace it on the reverse-side with wood battens, screwed securely to the
ceiling and repair piece, then fill the screw holes afterwards. Notch the
join, tape and fill.

It's a headache - and as it's a ceiling rather than a wall I'd be worried
about flexing damaging the joins, too; personally I'd rule out other
possible approaches first.

(if you do go this route, cutting the holes for the lights in the repair
pieces before you attach them would seem like a good plan)

cheers

Jules

In article ,
Paul D Smith wrote:

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?


I did pretty much this a while back (only one, might drive you mad if
you have loads to do :-) )

Assuming the lamps will fit in a thicker bit of board, I cut the correct
sized hole in a spare bit of plasterboard, then hacked it up so it was
in two bits - sort of crescent shaped I guess.

Smear a load of no nails type glue up through the hole onto the top of
the ceiling around the hole, and then poke the two pieces of "hole" up
through and stick to the ceiling so you end up with the correct sized
hole albeit inset by the thickness of the original board. Go to pub.

Next day, fill the recess around the edge of the hole with polyfilla that's
fairly thick. Once dry, it was easy enough to scrape around the edge of
the hole to make the lamp fit, and to sand flat with a sander that was
large enough to cover the entire hole.

Worked well, and wasn't as much faffing as I've made it sound. Sucks if
you've got 20 to do though :-)

Darren

On Nov 15, 8:35*am, "Paul D Smith" wrote:
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. *The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.
But are these fittings a standard size?

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving them a
fraction? *Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here

Thanks,
Paul DS.

Fittings are available in a wide range of sizes - you will be able to
find some to fit your holes. Alternatively it's fairly easy to redrill
the holes to make them bigger, so go for lights bigger than the
existing holes. What size are your current holes?

A

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Paul D Smith" writes:
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom
cut the holes too big. The main body of the light literally
"springs" into the hole and the entire fitting only stays put
because the "bulb holder" section with the "nice trim" is slightly
larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too
hot and in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would
show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size
holes - would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes -
how do I ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth,
"joint free" ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious
thought. But are these fittings a standard size?

No.
The eyeball ones use larger holes.
There are also MR16 lamps designed to retrofit into R63 holes.

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving
them a fraction? Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here

Fill the holes, and install proper lighting instead.
You don't want holes punched through ceilings, particularly bathrooms
and kitchens, and both these rooms need high quality lighting, which
is impossible with downlighters.

So you would put me out of a job then:-)

I guess that I have fitted about 10,000 downlights.

The customer is always right when they are paying me.

--
Adam

In article ,
"ARWadsworth" writes:

I guess that I have fitted about 10,000 downlights.

That would be half a megawatt of extremely low efficiency lighting...

The customer is always right when they are paying me.


--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 15/11/2011 08:35, Paul D Smith wrote:
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom
cut the holes too big. The main body of the light literally
"springs" into the hole and the entire fitting only stays put because
the "bulb holder" section with the "nice trim" is slightly larger
than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too
hot and in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would
show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size
holes - would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes -
how do I ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth,
"joint free" ceiling?

How about fixing a bit of wood to the ceiling and, rather than trying to
hide it, make it look like an ornamental feature? e.g. paint it to match
the bath or bath panel or something?

Depending on the style of your bathroom and how much effort you want to
put in, it could look good or it could look like some idiot cut the
holes for the lights too big and you tried to hide it with a big bit of
wood

"Paul D Smith" wrote in message ...

Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut the
holes too big. The main body of the light literally "springs" into the hole
and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb holder" section with
the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

1. Insulation tape around the fitting - NO! The fitting gets far too hot and
in any place the holes are so much too large, the tape would show in places.

2. Replace the large plasterboard section and redrill correct size holes -
would rather not.

3. Replace a foot square or so of plasterboard and redrill holes - how do I
ensure it fixes well and could I really get a nice smooth, "joint free"
ceiling?

4. Buy slightly bigger light fittings - giving this some serious thought.
But are these fittings a standard size?

5. Some how "fill" the existing holes and redrill, perhaps moving them a
fraction? Not convinced I could get a good finish.

6. Insert your suggestion here

Thanks,
Paul DS.
-----------------------------------------

TLC do a convertor kit which might help

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...Kit/index.html

John M

....snip...

TLC do a convertor kit which might help

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...Kit/index.html

John M

Liking that idea. Off to find out more and discuss with SWMBO.

Paul DS.

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"ARWadsworth" writes:

I guess that I have fitted about 10,000 downlights.

That would be half a megawatt of extremely low efficiency lighting...

The last 1000 were 4W LEDs:-)

I have only got 4 35W spots in my house. One straight above the computer
keyboard and 3 in the bathroom (thats one above the shower and two for
general lighting, I have a mirror light for proper use.


--
Adam

Paul D Smith wrote:
Precis - the idiot who installed the halogen spots in my bathroom cut
the holes too big. The main body of the light literally "springs"
into the hole and the entire fitting only stays put because the "bulb
holder" section with the "nice trim" is slightly larger than the hole.

Any ideas how do I make the hole smaller?

Options I've considered so far...

Get the pillock back to fix it or buy larger light fittings.

What size are the holes?

--
Adam

Get the pillock back to fix it or buy larger light fittings.

No idea who it was - before my time!


What size are the holes?

Off to measure over the weekend.

Paul DS

Paul D Smith wrote:
Get the pillock back to fix it or buy larger light fittings.

No idea who it was - before my time!


What size are the holes?

Off to measure over the weekend.

My wholesalers would sell the fitting without lamp and transformer for about
£3.

If there were 4 lights to change for slightly larger ones I would not mess
about trying to make the holes smaller even if I had to pay a little more
than £3 per light.
--
Adam

Cut a hole 200mm diameter. Cut new plaster board same diameter to fit hole. Cut new hole in centre of new insert with tank cutter for MR16. Fit a couple of wooden battens say 8-12mm thick 20 mm wide 250mm long screw them into the ceiling with plasterboard screws black coloured into the enlarged whole so it misses the new MR16 hole. Fit new plasterboard screw into battens. Fill gaps and screw head recesses. The springs for the MR16 fitting should fit between battens.

On 11/12/2013 15:29, wrote:


Cut a hole 200mm diameter. Cut new plaster board same diameter to fit
hole. Cut new hole in centre of new insert with tank cutter for MR16.

[snip]

Nice one perry... you do realise you are answering a question posted
over two years ago?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 18:39:05 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 11/12/2013 15:29, wrote:
Cut a hole 200mm diameter. Cut new plaster board same diameter to fit
hole. Cut new hole in centre of new insert with tank cutter for MR16.

[snip]

Nice one perry... you do realise you are answering a question posted
over two years ago?

Could be worse. There's some other arsenugget suddenly replied to a 15yo
query...

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 6:39:05 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 11/12/2013 15:29, perry.jones wrote:

Cut a hole 200mm diameter. Cut new plaster board same diameter to fit
hole. Cut new hole in centre of new insert with tank cutter for MR16.

Nice one perry... you do realise you are answering a question posted
over two years ago?

Sometimes it does take that long to get jobs done


NT