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#1
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side
of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. The plan is to bed the loose end of the adpater into some adhesive goop and possibly to drill a hole up through the adapter to form a physical attachment (as opposed to simply an emotional one). Though I'm a little dubious whether a hole + metal screw would stand the test of time. So, the question is: do I need to consider thermal expansion in the joint? Would an adhesive ultimately fail due to movement, and/or should a screw-hole in the bottom of the adapter be elongated to allow expansion along it's length? |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
root wrote:
Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. The plan is to bed the loose end of the adpater into some adhesive goop and possibly to drill a hole up through the adapter to form a physical attachment (as opposed to simply an emotional one). Though I'm a little dubious whether a hole + metal screw would stand the test of time. So, the question is: do I need to consider thermal expansion in the joint? Would an adhesive ultimately fail due to movement, and/or should a screw-hole in the bottom of the adapter be elongated to allow expansion along it's length? I've read this about 8 or 9 times and I've still no idea what you are on about. Where is the outlet? Are you referring to the square - round adapter as an outet? Why not just spend £25 and get yourself some new square gutter and clips and join onto next doors' new stuff? |
#3
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 20:25:56 +0100, Phil L wrote:
root wrote: Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. The plan is to bed the loose end of the adpater into some adhesive goop and possibly to drill a hole up through the adapter to form a physical attachment (as opposed to simply an emotional one). Though I'm a little dubious whether a hole + metal screw would stand the test of time. So, the question is: do I need to consider thermal expansion in the joint? Would an adhesive ultimately fail due to movement, and/or should a screw-hole in the bottom of the adapter be elongated to allow expansion along it's length? I've read this about 8 or 9 times and I've still no idea what you are on about. Let's see if this helps. 2 Semis, common, round, downpipe which I'm told is "mine" i.e. the downpipe is on my side of the boundary.. The downpipe and the outlet (this is what an outlet looks like, though this is a modern, plastic one, not a metal type. http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae23...8&op_sharpen=1 ) are made of iron. All the guttering is plastic. On our side the guttering is half-round, on the neighbours side it's square with an adapter. This is an adapter: http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae23...8&op_sharpen=1 The square side of the adapter is connected to the square guttering. The round side of the adapter is connected to .... nothing. It merely sits on top of the (round) outlet and therefore leaks. From it's design (see photo) it should clip into a short section of half-round gutter, which is then connected to the outlet. This is not how the neighbour's gutter-er installed it many years ago. They just laid it on the existing outlet, hoped it wouldn't rain before their cheque was cashed and high-tailed it off, into the sunset. The question is about securing a watertight connection between the round side of the existing adapter and the round profile of the existing outlet. |
#4
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
root wrote:
The question is about securing a watertight connection between the round side of the existing adapter and the round profile of the existing outlet. Right, so the downpipe is more or less where the two types of guttering join - this makes it much clearer. There is a cast iron running outlet and the square to round plastic adapter sits on this. Whatever you decide to use, it probably won't last very long, cast iron is an arse to drill through and silicone doesn't adhere very well, my advice is to splash out on some new square guttering and clips - I replaced some last week. The gutters were about £9 for a 5m length and the clips about £1.50 each, end cap about £2 and running outlet about £4 |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:00:32 +0000 (UTC), root
wrote: Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. Look at this from a pragmatic POV. Your neighbour relies on _your_ downpipe so he should ensure that _his_ guttering arrangement is compatible with _yours_, especially as yours is the original. Perhaps the NDN could contribute to the maintenance (e.g. painting; unblocking) of the "common" parts of the arrangement. I have a similar setup, but have (yet) had no complications. -- Frank Erskine Sunderland |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
On Oct 29, 6:00*pm, root wrote:
Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. The plan is to bed the loose end of the adpater into some adhesive goop and possibly to drill a hole up through the adapter to form a physical attachment (as opposed to simply an emotional one). Though I'm a little dubious whether a hole + metal screw would stand the test of time. So, the question is: do I need to consider thermal expansion in the joint? Would an adhesive ultimately fail due to movement, and/or should a screw-hole in the bottom of the adapter be elongated to allow expansion along it's length? Temporaryish repair can be made if you clean up,bitumous paint and then flashband on the inside. Lasts a couple of years. |
#7
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 23:35:43 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:00:32 +0000 (UTC), root wrote: Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. Look at this from a pragmatic POV. Your neighbour relies on _your_ downpipe so he should ensure that _his_ guttering arrangement is compatible with _yours_, especially as yours is the original. Perhaps the NDN could contribute to the maintenance (e.g. painting; unblocking) of the "common" parts of the arrangement. I have a similar setup, but have (yet) had no complications. Yes, that's always been my position - however for the 5 years or so that this has been ongoing, no progress to my gentle hints has resulted in action. I'm well past the point of "principles" and who's responsibility this is - I'm in a position to fix it as I've been clearing the back gutter and am now starting on the front one - and if that's what the neigbours have been waiting for then fine - they win, big deal! It doesn't matter. The problem has always been that since a previous occupier, not the current one, was persuaded to replace their perfectly good gutters with something that was (a) unsuitable and (b) poorly installed every bout of heavy rain has seen rainwater pouring out of this connection. To take your pragmatic view, for the sake of half an hour up a ladder I should be able to seal the "joint" and make it more permanent with a screw to keep it all in place. I'm under no illusions that a squirt of mastic will provide a permanent solution, hence the need for mechanical fixings. Fortunately the existing outlet was made with a screw-hole for what looks like a 1/4 inch (yes, it's 50 years old) CSK, which is what's keeping my side of the gutter conencted to the outlet. |
#8
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
In message , root
writes On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 23:35:43 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote: On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:00:32 +0000 (UTC), root wrote: Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. Look at this from a pragmatic POV. Your neighbour relies on _your_ downpipe so he should ensure that _his_ guttering arrangement is compatible with _yours_, especially as yours is the original. Perhaps the NDN could contribute to the maintenance (e.g. painting; unblocking) of the "common" parts of the arrangement. I have a similar setup, but have (yet) had no complications. Yes, that's always been my position - however for the 5 years or so that this has been ongoing, no progress to my gentle hints has resulted in action. I'm well past the point of "principles" and who's responsibility this is - I'm in a position to fix it as I've been clearing the back gutter and am now starting on the front one - and if that's what the neigbours have been waiting for then fine - they win, big deal! It doesn't matter. The problem has always been that since a previous occupier, not the current one, was persuaded to replace their perfectly good gutters with something that was (a) unsuitable and (b) poorly installed every bout of heavy rain has seen rainwater pouring out of this connection. To take your pragmatic view, for the sake of half an hour up a ladder I should be able to seal the "joint" and make it more permanent with a screw to keep it all in place. I'm under no illusions that a squirt of mastic will provide a permanent solution, hence the need for mechanical fixings. Fortunately the existing outlet was made with a screw-hole for what looks like a 1/4 inch (yes, it's 50 years old) CSK, which is what's keeping my side of the gutter conencted to the outlet. Presumably, the original installers did not have any half round plastic to do a decent bodge. Why not shorten your neighbours gutter back a few inches, refit the adapter and scrounge a short length of half round plastic gutter to mate with your running outlet? Not the nicest job at the top of a ladder but you can drill cast iron. If you scrounge the ribbed rubber strip from a gutter joint and use stainless fixings you should get a long lasting seal. On scrounging... I have all those parts to hand:-) regards -- Tim Lamb |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
root explained on 30/10/2011 :
Fortunately the existing outlet was made with a screw-hole for what looks like a 1/4 inch (yes, it's 50 years old) CSK, which is what's keeping my side of the gutter conencted to the outlet. I sympathise with you, because we had a similar problem. Cast was swapped for half round plastic on both properties, many years ago. Then about 7 years ago next door were persuaded to get new gutters, soffits and etc. installed, but they didn't fit new fall pipes. Who ever they had paid to do the job, made a complete muck of it - gutter level wondered all over the place and they just used a self tapper and sealant to adapt their square to the existing half round. It never worked and just flooded out - unfortunately down our walls. Despite many complaints, they just would not pay for anyone to sort it for them. So a couple of years ago and because I felt ours was due for replacement anyway, I replaced all of ours to match theirs, including the fall pipes and all nice and straight - unlike their professionally installed work'. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:11:51 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , root writes On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 23:35:43 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote: On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:00:32 +0000 (UTC), root wrote: Breifly, the next-door neighbour has plastic, square guttering on their side of the two semi's. We have the original round guttering which feeds a cast iron outlet into the downpipe. The gutter leaks badly where the square and round types meet. It turns out that while the new guttering does actually have a square-round adapter, this has merely been placed into the downpipe's outlet with no sealant or physical attachment - it just flaps around in the wind and rain. While up t' laddter today I decided to see what remedies were possible. The round outlet has two screw-holes in its base. The side that goes to the half- round guttering is screwed onto the outlet, the side that goes to the adapter isn't - it's just loose. This appears to be because of a mismatch in the "systems": modern outlets have a rubber seal to make a watertight joint, the original cast iron outlet expects the guttering to be screw in and doesn't have a gasket. Look at this from a pragmatic POV. Your neighbour relies on _your_ downpipe so he should ensure that _his_ guttering arrangement is compatible with _yours_, especially as yours is the original. Perhaps the NDN could contribute to the maintenance (e.g. painting; unblocking) of the "common" parts of the arrangement. I have a similar setup, but have (yet) had no complications. Yes, that's always been my position - however for the 5 years or so that this has been ongoing, no progress to my gentle hints has resulted in action. I'm well past the point of "principles" and who's responsibility this is - I'm in a position to fix it as I've been clearing the back gutter and am now starting on the front one - and if that's what the neigbours have been waiting for then fine - they win, big deal! It doesn't matter. The problem has always been that since a previous occupier, not the current one, was persuaded to replace their perfectly good gutters with something that was (a) unsuitable and (b) poorly installed every bout of heavy rain has seen rainwater pouring out of this connection. To take your pragmatic view, for the sake of half an hour up a ladder I should be able to seal the "joint" and make it more permanent with a screw to keep it all in place. I'm under no illusions that a squirt of mastic will provide a permanent solution, hence the need for mechanical fixings. Fortunately the existing outlet was made with a screw-hole for what looks like a 1/4 inch (yes, it's 50 years old) CSK, which is what's keeping my side of the gutter conencted to the outlet. Presumably, the original installers did not have any half round plastic to do a decent bodge. Hmmm, that would be the generous and charitable explanation :0 On the evening after the first day spent fixing their new gutter + soffits, I got a knock from their builder who said "While I was up on the roof, I noticed some of your ridge tiles need repointing. Since I've got the equipment, I can do it for you tomorrow for £60" OK, says I, "Let's have a look" (pulls out Hubble-sized binoculars and trains them on ridge. ) Needless to say, when questioned the next evening, the guy "didn't have time" to do the repointing ... Why not shorten your neighbours gutter back a few inches, refit the adapter and scrounge a short length of half round plastic gutter to mate with your running outlet? Not the nicest job at the top of a ladder but you can drill cast iron. If you scrounge the ribbed rubber strip from a gutter joint and use stainless fixings you should get a long lasting seal. On scrounging... I have all those parts to hand:-) It sounds like your bits box is far superior to mine. I'm just considering this as an opportunistic fix - not something I want to turn into a project. So I'll probably use whatever I can get my hands on. If it lasts a year or two, that's better than what's there now (and you never know, the neighbours might get round to sorting out a permanent fix). I don't want to go cutting their gutters as then I'll "own" the problem and it'll always be my fault ... |
#12
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Joining plastic to cast-iron gutters
In message , root
writes snip Why not shorten your neighbours gutter back a few inches, refit the adapter and scrounge a short length of half round plastic gutter to mate with your running outlet? Not the nicest job at the top of a ladder but you can drill cast iron. If you scrounge the ribbed rubber strip from a gutter joint and use stainless fixings you should get a long lasting seal. On scrounging... I have all those parts to hand:-) It sounds like your bits box is far superior to mine. I'm just considering this as an opportunistic fix - not something I want to turn into a project. So I'll probably use whatever I can get my hands on. If it lasts a year or two, that's better than what's there now (and you never know, the neighbours might get round to sorting out a permanent fix). I don't want to go cutting their gutters as then I'll "own" the problem and it'll always be my fault ... Nothing with re-use possibilities ever knowingly thrown away:-) They are your neighbours:-) regards -- Tim Lamb |
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