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Default best drills for stainless steel

Hi all

yet another question

will be fitting a stainless steel panel behind a hob need to drill approx 8
x 5mm holes

Are the Heller cobalt drills the best bet and is the cooling fluid better
tha using ordinary light oil

Regards

Tony

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Default best drills for stainless steel

On Sep 19, 10:38*pm, "TMC" wrote:

will be fitting a stainless steel panel behind a hob need to drill approx 8
x 5mm holes


This depends on the precise alloy used, however I wouldn't expect a
decorative panel that's also presumably quite thin to be a problem.

Are the Heller cobalt drills the best bet and


Yes. You can do it without (most grades of stainless aren't the
nightmare that some can be), but these are good. It's worth having a
set that you keep for special jobs.

is the cooling fluid better tha using ordinary light oil


Yes. The main thing though is to use _something_. RTD cutting fluid
does just work better - it's thicker and stays put better for one
thing. If you're desperate, then I've even been known to use chainsaw
oil (also made stickier).
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Default best drills for stainless steel

On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:25:21 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:
is the cooling fluid better tha using ordinary light oil


Yes. The main thing though is to use _something_. RTD cutting fluid
does just work better - it's thicker and stays put better for one thing.
If you're desperate, then I've even been known to use chainsaw oil (also
made stickier).


I've wondered about used engine oil before (I always seem to have some
kicking around awiting disposal). It would have "some life left in it"
because it's not like it magically stops doing what an oil needs to do at
the point where it gets changed for fresh - but perhaps there's a good
reason that it's still a bad idea :-)

cheers

Jules
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On Sep 20, 1:03*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:

I've wondered about used engine oil before


Well if you _want_ to fling black, used oil around...
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On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 17:24:30 -0700, Andy Dingley wrote:

On Sep 20, 1:03Â*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:

I've wondered about used engine oil before


Well if you _want_ to fling black, used oil around...


Well, I wouldn't exactly call new oil "clean" - in the sense that it
still makes a mess if it gets where you don't want it :-) (although there
doesn't ever seem to be much flinging going on at typical metal-drilling
speeds)

cheers

J.





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Default best drills for stainless steel

Jules Richardson wrote:

I've wondered about used engine oil before

Well if you _want_ to fling black, used oil around...


Well, I wouldn't exactly call new oil "clean" - in the sense that it
still makes a mess if it gets where you don't want it :-) (although there
doesn't ever seem to be much flinging going on at typical metal-drilling
speeds)


I've got a spray tin of cutting lubricant from Toolstation but I also
have an olde-worlde oilcan that I've got (fresh) 10w-40 engine oil in
(or whatever I have left over from oil changes on cars.) Both are better
than nothing when drilling or turning on the lathe. The oil is stickier
so stays put longer and the oilcan makes it easier to apply.

At the OP: for a few small holes in SS I'd just use the HSS ones I've
got (and I'm ever looking for an excuse to buy some cobalt ones!)

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
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Default best drills for stainless steel


"Scott M" wrote in message
...
Jules Richardson wrote:

I've wondered about used engine oil before
Well if you _want_ to fling black, used oil around...


Well, I wouldn't exactly call new oil "clean" - in the sense that it
still makes a mess if it gets where you don't want it :-) (although there
doesn't ever seem to be much flinging going on at typical metal-drilling
speeds)


I've got a spray tin of cutting lubricant from Toolstation but I also have
an olde-worlde oilcan that I've got (fresh) 10w-40 engine oil in (or
whatever I have left over from oil changes on cars.) Both are better than
nothing when drilling or turning on the lathe. The oil is stickier so
stays put longer and the oilcan makes it easier to apply.

At the OP: for a few small holes in SS I'd just use the HSS ones I've got
(and I'm ever looking for an excuse to buy some cobalt ones!)

--
Scott

thanks for the replies have ordered the small heller set

Regards

Tony

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Default best drills for stainless steel


"TMC" wrote in message
...
Hi all

yet another question

will be fitting a stainless steel panel behind a hob need to drill approx
8 x 5mm holes

Are the Heller cobalt drills the best bet and is the cooling fluid better
tha using ordinary light oil



I just drilled a whole load of holes in stainless steel ... ranging from 3mm
to 5mm plate, in various diam up to 9mm

Just used standard twist drills with some cutting lubricant .... unless you
are planning on hundreds no need to buy special drills.

Usually better to apply more pressure than you normally would, it then cuts
cleanly, rather than heating up .... in my case swarf came off as one long
spiral, so drill must have been happy enough.

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Default best drills for stainless steel

On 20/09/2011 00:25, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sep 19, 10:38 pm, wrote:

will be fitting a stainless steel panel behind a hob need to drill approx 8
x 5mm holes


This depends on the precise alloy used, however I wouldn't expect a
decorative panel that's also presumably quite thin to be a problem.


With a 2 fluted drill, on thin metal, you might end up with a triangular
hole. Use a scrap piece of mild steel behind the hole, clamped to the SS

Dave
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Default best drills for stainless steel

On 20/09/2011 21:10, Rick Hughes wrote:

"TMC" wrote in message
...
Hi all

yet another question

will be fitting a stainless steel panel behind a hob need to drill
approx 8 x 5mm holes

Are the Heller cobalt drills the best bet and is the cooling fluid
better tha using ordinary light oil



I just drilled a whole load of holes in stainless steel ... ranging from
3mm to 5mm plate, in various diam up to 9mm

Just used standard twist drills with some cutting lubricant .... unless
you are planning on hundreds no need to buy special drills.

Usually better to apply more pressure than you normally would, it then
cuts cleanly, rather than heating up .... in my case swarf came off as
one long spiral, so drill must have been happy enough.


I am in total agreement with what you wrote.

If the drill doesn't bite right away, then you need to get the twist
drill sharpened.


Dave


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Default best drills for stainless steel

On Tue, 20 Sep 2011 10:03:27 +0100, Scott M wrote:

Jules Richardson wrote:

I've wondered about used engine oil before
Well if you _want_ to fling black, used oil around...


Well, I wouldn't exactly call new oil "clean" - in the sense that it
still makes a mess if it gets where you don't want it :-) (although
there doesn't ever seem to be much flinging going on at typical
metal-drilling speeds)


I've got a spray tin of cutting lubricant from Toolstation but I also
have an olde-worlde oilcan that I've got (fresh) 10w-40 engine oil in
(or whatever I have left over from oil changes on cars.) Both are better
than nothing when drilling or turning on the lathe. The oil is stickier
so stays put longer and the oilcan makes it easier to apply.


Well, I tried it out earlier - it works well, but the fumes that aren't
particularly pleasant (and probably not very healthy, either). So,
perhaps relegated to one of those "in an emergency" situations...

At the OP: for a few small holes in SS I'd just use the HSS ones I've
got (and I'm ever looking for an excuse to buy some cobalt ones!)


I just bought some the other day, but didn't get a chance to use them
until earlier. "like a knife through butter" is probably an apt
description - they cut so much better than my HSS bits. Not particularly
expensive, either.

cheers

Jules
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Default best drills for stainless steel

In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I just drilled a whole load of holes in stainless steel ... ranging from
3mm to 5mm plate, in various diam up to 9mm


Just used standard twist drills with some cutting lubricant .... unless
you are planning on hundreds no need to buy special drills.


Usually better to apply more pressure than you normally would, it then
cuts cleanly, rather than heating up .... in my case swarf came off as
one long spiral, so drill must have been happy enough.


AOL. I have a good supply of small drills so junk them when blunt. Larger
ones I sharpen. Thus I don't think the cost of a tungsten would be
justified - unless doing lots and lots.

--
*I don't have a license to kill, but I do have a learner's permit.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Jules Richardson wrote:

Well, I tried it out earlier - it works well, but the fumes that aren't
particularly pleasant (and probably not very healthy, either). So,
perhaps relegated to one of those "in an emergency" situations...


I've found it does smoke but not noticed fumes; you must have got it
pretty hot then. Not enough axial force or running too fast?


At the OP: for a few small holes in SS I'd just use the HSS ones I've
got (and I'm ever looking for an excuse to buy some cobalt ones!)


I just bought some the other day, but didn't get a chance to use them
until earlier. "like a knife through butter" is probably an apt
description - they cut so much better than my HSS bits. Not particularly
expensive, either.


Right, that's it. I'm getting a set! :-)

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
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