Have been given solid oak flooring we took up from a house where the chap
wanted it replaced with cheap laminate click-lock... Don't ask/utter
madness!

I have just relaid some of it in my dad's extension (still have 3x that
amount left over!)

We're in the process of sanding it and cleaning up with White spirit soaked
tissue.
It's drying/evaporating with white patchiness and losing it's lustre in
areas.

Before sealing it with Ronseal Hardglaze I want to try and restore some
richness and get rid of the patchiness beforehand.

Ronseal's tech dept say not to use any kind of oil product as the varnish
will then not adhere.

They have suggested a test patch to see if the white bleached areas
disappear and if not, to then experiment with a bleaching agent to get the
dark areas to match the light, rather than feeding the light areas to match
the dark. Then If that doesn't work, to sand down deeper.

We're trying a test area now but am interested to know if you lot have any
further suggestions

Cheers,
D.

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Dean Heighington wrote:

Have been given solid oak flooring we took up from a house where the chap
wanted it replaced with cheap laminate click-lock... Don't ask/utter
madness!

I have just relaid some of it in my dad's extension (still have 3x that
amount left over!)

We're in the process of sanding it and cleaning up with White spirit
soaked tissue.
It's drying/evaporating with white patchiness and losing it's lustre in
areas.

Before sealing it with Ronseal Hardglaze I want to try and restore some
richness and get rid of the patchiness beforehand.

Ronseal's tech dept say not to use any kind of oil product as the varnish
will then not adhere.

They have suggested a test patch to see if the white bleached areas
disappear and if not, to then experiment with a bleaching agent to get the
dark areas to match the light, rather than feeding the light areas to
match the dark. Then If that doesn't work, to sand down deeper.

We're trying a test area now but am interested to know if you lot have any
further suggestions

Cheers,
D.


Personally I would forget the hardglaze (though it is good as DIY varnishes
go) and use Treatex oil. OK - it is not as tough, but you can recoat or
touch up trivially without a lot of work. I've been very impressed with it
on oak round my house. 1 coat brings up the colour but still looks like wood
(I do this on skirtings) or 3 coats really seals the surface and leaves it
mildly glossy (done this on door thresholds subject to occasional water).
It's nice stuff because it doesn't stink and can be ragged on or brushed on
with a soft brush (go for thinly).

If you really want varnish - why not go for one of the tougher ones like
Rustins Bar Top?

But for "richness", a light rub over with some strong tea perhaps? (tannin)
which will be subtle. Or there are some funky crystals that can be dissolved
in water and applied to bring out the colour - Van Dyke Crystals. Never used
them though, but heard of them here. Obviously, best to test on the back of
the wood to see if you're happy first...

http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article.asp?a=930

Looks like they are pretty powerful - I don't know if you can be more subtle
with a dilute mixture...

Hang around, because there are others who really know their wood here...

--
Tim Watts

On 15/09/2011 10:44, Dean Heighington wrote:
Have been given solid oak flooring we took up from a house where the chap
wanted it replaced with cheap laminate click-lock... Don't ask/utter
madness!

I have just relaid some of it in my dad's extension (still have 3x that
amount left over!)

We're in the process of sanding it and cleaning up with White spirit soaked
tissue.
It's drying/evaporating with white patchiness and losing it's lustre in
areas.

Before sealing it with Ronseal Hardglaze I want to try and restore some
richness and get rid of the patchiness beforehand.

Ronseal's tech dept say not to use any kind of oil product as the varnish
will then not adhere.

They have suggested a test patch to see if the white bleached areas
disappear and if not, to then experiment with a bleaching agent to get the
dark areas to match the light, rather than feeding the light areas to match
the dark. Then If that doesn't work, to sand down deeper.

We're trying a test area now but am interested to know if you lot have any
further suggestions

Cheers,
D.


I'd treat the whole thing with 2 part woodworking bleach. Part A makes
the wood look like nothing on earth but the peroxide freshens up
hardwoods like nothing else IME.
The white bleached area could be varnish residue. Urethane tends to sand
to a white powder, but this disappears when any kind of film is applied
over it.

On Sep 15, 11:18 am, Tim Watts wrote:
Dean Heighington wrote:
Have been given solid oak flooring we took up from a house where the chap
wanted it replaced with cheap laminate click-lock... Don't ask/utter
madness!

I have just relaid some of it in my dad's extension (still have 3x that
amount left over!)

We're in the process of sanding it and cleaning up with White spirit
soaked tissue.
It's drying/evaporating with white patchiness and losing it's lustre in
areas.

Before sealing it with Ronseal Hardglaze I want to try and restore some
richness and get rid of the patchiness beforehand.

Ronseal's tech dept say not to use any kind of oil product as the varnish
will then not adhere.

They have suggested a test patch to see if the white bleached areas
disappear and if not, to then experiment with a bleaching agent to get the
dark areas to match the light, rather than feeding the light areas to
match the dark. Then If that doesn't work, to sand down deeper.

We're trying a test area now but am interested to know if you lot have any
further suggestions

Cheers,
D.

Personally I would forget the hardglaze (though it is good as DIY varnishes
go) and use Treatex oil. OK - it is not as tough, but you can recoat or
touch up trivially without a lot of work. I've been very impressed with it
on oak round my house. 1 coat brings up the colour but still looks like wood
(I do this on skirtings) or 3 coats really seals the surface and leaves it
mildly glossy (done this on door thresholds subject to occasional water).
It's nice stuff because it doesn't stink and can be ragged on or brushed on
with a soft brush (go for thinly).

If you really want varnish - why not go for one of the tougher ones like
Rustins Bar Top?

But for "richness", a light rub over with some strong tea perhaps? (tannin)
which will be subtle. Or there are some funky crystals that can be dissolved
in water and applied to bring out the colour - Van Dyke Crystals. Never used
them though, but heard of them here. Obviously, best to test on the back of
the wood to see if you're happy first...

http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article.asp?a=930

Looks like they are pretty powerful - I don't know if you can be more subtle
with a dilute mixture...

Hang around, because there are others who really know their wood here...

--
Tim Watts

I'd agree on the oiling, unless they are already varnished - but spose
all depends howw far down you are sanding back to. Here I used Osmo
Hardwax Oil - very good and sounds v similar to Tim's Treatex. Goes a
long way, non toxic, and just go over again when you want a slight
sheen back - even used a (modern styley) floor mop here with good
enough results for 20 mins work!! ;)

Jim K

Dean Heighington wrote:
Have been given solid oak flooring we took up from a house where the chap
wanted it replaced with cheap laminate click-lock... Don't ask/utter
madness!

I have just relaid some of it in my dad's extension (still have 3x that
amount left over!)

We're in the process of sanding it and cleaning up with White spirit soaked
tissue.
It's drying/evaporating with white patchiness and losing it's lustre in
areas.

Before sealing it with Ronseal Hardglaze I want to try and restore some
richness and get rid of the patchiness beforehand.

Ronseal's tech dept say not to use any kind of oil product as the varnish
will then not adhere.

They have suggested a test patch to see if the white bleached areas
disappear and if not, to then experiment with a bleaching agent to get the
dark areas to match the light, rather than feeding the light areas to match
the dark. Then If that doesn't work, to sand down deeper.

We're trying a test area now but am interested to know if you lot have any
further suggestions


try bleaching the lot and then applying a finish: Oak does darken with
age and exposure to light.

Cheers,
D.

Jim K wrote:

I'd agree on the oiling, unless they are already varnished - but spose
all depends howw far down you are sanding back to. Here I used Osmo
Hardwax Oil - very good and sounds v similar to Tim's Treatex. Goes a
long way, non toxic, and just go over again when you want a slight
sheen back - even used a (modern styley) floor mop here with good
enough results for 20 mins work!! ;)

Jim K

I'll tell him to go down another 3mm... Lazy git
http://tinyurl.com/5wjmjbf

--
What else are opposable thumbs for? Get to me at
masterfix{at}btinternet{dot}com

stuart noble wrote:

I'd treat the whole thing with 2 part woodworking bleach. Part A makes
the wood look like nothing on earth but the peroxide freshens up
hardwoods like nothing else IME.
The white bleached area could be varnish residue. Urethane tends to sand
to a white powder, but this disappears when any kind of film is applied over it.

I think you're spot on there with the varnish residue... Sanding seems to
have rubbed it into the wood below and when testing the area with the
varnish, this seems to have taken up the white and made it part if the coat
of varnish. It's quite a high traffic area and my dad wanted something hard
wearing with a sheen, so at the moment it's looking good with just the
sanding, cleaning with White spirit and a coat of the varnish. Won't know
until full drying has occurred but at the moment everyone's happy.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, it's good to know what systems
and treatments are available for future reference.

Ta, d.

--
What else are opposable thumbs for? Get to me at
masterfix{at}btinternet{dot}com