I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/or ignition

I hear relay clicks followed by retries and red light. When it is
working I think I hear an additional click (is that spark generator?)
Usually, if the boiler fails on the first attempt, none of the
attempts work. Occasionally, I have witnessed the boiler fire up on
the 3rd/4th attempt.

My thoughts and plan:
- Replace the electrodes (they look a bit corroded and are pretty
cheap). Is there a way to test these? No difference from a wire wool
clean. The engineer tried to get a spark from electrode to insulated
screwdriver he was holding - should that work anyway?
- replace air box and combustion seals as they are starting to
disintegrate
- Ignition pcb - could this be at fault, even though the boiler does
still work sometimes? Presumably hard to be sure it needs to be
replaced in advance of trying a new one
- Spark generator - could this be at fault, even though the boiler
does still work sometimes?
- The condensate drain was half full but did not seem blocked. I
haven't tried removing the white lead to rule it out but I would have
thought that the boiler would light, then shut down if there was a
problem with that?

Thanks for any help and guidance

Andrew

In message
,
Andrew writes
I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/or ignition

I hear relay clicks followed by retries and red light. When it is
working I think I hear an additional click (is that spark generator?)
Usually, if the boiler fails on the first attempt, none of the
attempts work. Occasionally, I have witnessed the boiler fire up on
the 3rd/4th attempt.

My thoughts and plan:
- Replace the electrodes (they look a bit corroded and are pretty
cheap). Is there a way to test these? No difference from a wire wool
clean. The engineer tried to get a spark from electrode to insulated
screwdriver he was holding - should that work anyway?
- replace air box and combustion seals as they are starting to
disintegrate
- Ignition pcb - could this be at fault, even though the boiler does
still work sometimes? Presumably hard to be sure it needs to be
replaced in advance of trying a new one
- Spark generator - could this be at fault, even though the boiler
does still work sometimes?
- The condensate drain was half full but did not seem blocked. I
haven't tried removing the white lead to rule it out but I would have
thought that the boiler would light, then shut down if there was a
problem with that?

First - lets look at the relevant part of the sequence and ignoring all
the peripheral rubbish so you can decide where it'#s falling over, since
your description looks a bit confused

with a call for heat from the main pcb, the sequence board brings on the
fan which in turn causes the air pressure switch to transfer from the
normally closed to normally open position. This feeds back to the
sequence board which does two things - it opens the pilot valve and
initiates the spark (generated on the sequence board). The pilot light
is sensed electronically on the sequence board via the FS electrode and
then the main solenoid is energised to bring on the main burner

Boiler seals and such will interfere with the APS operation

The spark generator is on the sequence board

condensate trap - not sure on this boiler without looking at the manual


does the pilot light?

Does it keep on sparking after the pilot has lit ?

is the spark electrode generating a spark across the pilot jet

is the sense electrode in the pilot flame?

Answer these questions and you will be in a better position to home in
on the problem


whatever,. It shouldn't be too much of a problem or too expensive to
sort out

--
geoff

Andrew wrote:

I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/or ignition

Change both the electrodes, you can buy them as a kit
Change both the G2RL-2 relays on the ignition PCB
and check the the board carefully for any dry joints
Check that the fire door seals are perfect if not replace them.

MILs Barcelona is now 9 years old and apart from the above is still working
fine.


-

On Aug 19, 8:49*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes







I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/or ignition

I hear relay clicks followed by retries and red light. When it is
working I think I hear an additional click (is that spark generator?)
Usually, if the boiler fails on the first attempt, none of the
attempts work. Occasionally, I have witnessed the boiler fire up on
the 3rd/4th attempt.

My thoughts and plan:
- Replace the electrodes (they look a bit corroded and are pretty
cheap). Is there a way to test these? No difference from a wire wool
clean. The engineer tried to get a spark from electrode to insulated
screwdriver he was holding - should that work anyway?
- replace air box and combustion seals as they are starting to
disintegrate
- Ignition pcb - could this be at fault, even though the boiler does
still work sometimes? Presumably hard to be sure it needs to be
replaced in advance of trying a new one
- Spark generator - could this be at fault, even though the boiler
does still work sometimes?
- The condensate drain was half full but did not seem blocked. I
haven't tried removing the white lead to rule it out but I would have
thought that the boiler would light, then shut down if there was a
problem with that?

First - lets look at the relevant part of the sequence and ignoring all
the peripheral rubbish so you can decide where it'#s falling over, since
your description looks a bit confused

with a call for heat from the main pcb, the sequence board brings on the
fan which in turn causes the air pressure switch to transfer from the
normally closed to normally open position. This feeds back to the
sequence board which does two things - it opens the pilot valve and
initiates the spark (generated on the sequence board). The pilot light
is sensed electronically on the sequence board via the FS electrode and
then the main solenoid is energised to bring on the main burner

Boiler seals and such will interfere with the APS operation

The spark generator is on the sequence board

condensate trap - not sure on this boiler without looking at the manual

does the pilot light?

Does it keep on sparking after the pilot has lit ?

is the spark electrode generating a spark across the pilot jet

is the sense electrode in the pilot flame?

Answer these questions and you will be in a better position to home in
on the problem

whatever,. It shouldn't be too much of a problem or too expensive to
sort out

--
geoff

Thanks for your reply - the pilot was not lighting. It retried (click
of relays, but no spark presumably) 4 times until locking out.

I've ordered combustion and air box seals, and a new ignition kit so
hope that will improve things.

thanks

In message
,
Andrew writes
On Aug 19, 8:49*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes







I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/or ignition

I hear relay clicks followed by retries and red light. When it is
working I think I hear an additional click (is that spark generator?)
Usually, if the boiler fails on the first attempt, none of the
attempts work. Occasionally, I have witnessed the boiler fire up on
the 3rd/4th attempt.

My thoughts and plan:
- Replace the electrodes (they look a bit corroded and are pretty
cheap). Is there a way to test these? No difference from a wire wool
clean. The engineer tried to get a spark from electrode to insulated
screwdriver he was holding - should that work anyway?
- replace air box and combustion seals as they are starting to
disintegrate
- Ignition pcb - could this be at fault, even though the boiler does
still work sometimes? Presumably hard to be sure it needs to be
replaced in advance of trying a new one
- Spark generator - could this be at fault, even though the boiler
does still work sometimes?
- The condensate drain was half full but did not seem blocked. I
haven't tried removing the white lead to rule it out but I would have
thought that the boiler would light, then shut down if there was a
problem with that?

First - lets look at the relevant part of the sequence and ignoring all
the peripheral rubbish so you can decide where it'#s falling over, since
your description looks a bit confused

with a call for heat from the main pcb, the sequence board brings on the
fan which in turn causes the air pressure switch to transfer from the
normally closed to normally open position. This feeds back to the
sequence board which does two things - it opens the pilot valve and
initiates the spark (generated on the sequence board). The pilot light
is sensed electronically on the sequence board via the FS electrode and
then the main solenoid is energised to bring on the main burner

Boiler seals and such will interfere with the APS operation

The spark generator is on the sequence board

condensate trap - not sure on this boiler without looking at the manual

does the pilot light?

Does it keep on sparking after the pilot has lit ?

is the spark electrode generating a spark across the pilot jet

is the sense electrode in the pilot flame?

Answer these questions and you will be in a better position to home in
on the problem

whatever,. It shouldn't be too much of a problem or too expensive to
sort out

Thanks for your reply - the pilot was not lighting. It retried (click
of relays, but no spark presumably) 4 times until locking out.

I've ordered combustion and air box seals, and a new ignition kit so
hope that will improve things.


Still a bit headless chicken approach and will in all probability
achieve **** all

Air seals may be a problem, maybe not

Ignition kit - I presume you mean electrode assy - you're wasting your
time, the sequence isn't getting that far



Are there volts (240ac) to the pilot valve some seconds after the fan
comes on?

If yes, then I would say it is the pcb, if not, then, I would expect
that the APS is not transferring. You should be able to hear the APS
microswitch clicking in

And ... as for changing the relays on the sequence board ...

another red herring


One thing you can do to test the APS, on your own hewad be it and only
of you're confident ...

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others




--
geoff

On Aug 23, 12:13*am, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes



On Aug 19, 8:49*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes

I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/orignition

I hear relay clicks followed by retries and red light. When it is
working I think I hear an additional click (is that spark generator?)
Usually, if the boiler fails on the first attempt, none of the
attempts work. Occasionally, I have witnessed the boiler fire up on
the 3rd/4th attempt.

My thoughts and plan:
- Replace the electrodes (they look a bit corroded and are pretty
cheap). Is there a way to test these? No difference from a wire wool
clean. The engineer tried to get a spark from electrode to insulated
screwdriver he was holding - should that work anyway?
- replace air box and combustion seals as they are starting to
disintegrate
-Ignitionpcb - could this be at fault, even though the boiler does
still work sometimes? Presumably hard to be sure it needs to be
replaced in advance of trying a new one
- Spark generator - could this be at fault, even though the boiler
does still work sometimes?
- The condensate drain was half full but did not seem blocked. I
haven't tried removing the white lead to rule it out but I would have
thought that the boiler would light, then shut down if there was a
problem with that?

First - lets look at the relevant part of the sequence and ignoring all
the peripheral rubbish so you can decide where it'#s falling over, since
your description looks a bit confused

with a call for heat from the main pcb, the sequence board brings on the
fan which in turn causes the air pressure switch to transfer from the
normally closed to normally open position. This feeds back to the
sequence board which does two things - it opens the pilot valve and
initiates the spark (generated on the sequence board). The pilot light
is sensed electronically on the sequence board via the FS electrode and
then the main solenoid is energised to bring on the main burner

Boiler seals and such will interfere with the APS operation

The spark generator is on the sequence board

condensate trap - not sure on this boiler without looking at the manual

does the pilot light?

Does it keep on sparking after the pilot has lit ?

is the spark electrode generating a spark across the pilot jet

is the sense electrode in the pilot flame?

Answer these questions and you will be in a better position to home in
on the problem

whatever,. It shouldn't be too much of a problem or too expensive to
sort out

Thanks for your reply - the pilot was not lighting. It retried (click
of relays, but no spark presumably) 4 times until locking out.

I've ordered combustion and air box seals, and a newignitionkit so
hope that will improve things.

Still a bit headless chicken approach and will in all probability
achieve **** all

Air seals may be a problem, maybe not

Ignitionkit - I presume you mean electrode assy *- you're wasting your
time, the sequence isn't getting that far

Are there volts (240ac) to the pilot valve some seconds after the fan
comes on?

If yes, then I would say it is the pcb, if not, then, I would expect
that the APS is not transferring. You should be able to hear the APS
microswitch clicking in

And ... as for changing the relays on the sequence board ...

another red herring

One thing you can do to test the APS, on your own hewad be it and only
of you're confident ...

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others

--
geoff

thanks - as the parts are inexpensive compared to a call-out, I
thought it worth just getting them all in one delivery. As you can
tell, I'm no expert but I'm keen to understand how the boiler should
work and what it might be doing wrong.

The combustion door seal was badly disintegrating when the door was
removed, so that's the first thing I'll do. I understand that this
could cause multiple problems like dangerous gases leaking, condensate
escaping and showing a leak at the top of the cabinet (which I can
see) and, the flame being shifted so it's not properly in the detector
- when it gets as far as producing a flame that is!

The electrodes looked corroded, so I thought it worth changing them
too rather than just some wire wool cleaning.

Regarding the sequence, I do hear the fan come on, and then shortly
after I hear the microswitch/relay sound as it tries to go through the
ignition sequence. So, I assume that the APS is OK. The iginition
sequence does complete sometimes.

I suppose that the end result may be that the ignition PCB needs to be
replaced, but I thought it worth doing the cheaper basics first. The
puzzling thing to me is why it works sometimes and not others. I
suppose that dry or bad joints on a PCB could cause this. The only
thing I could think of is that something is getting leaked on and
drying out over time.

thanks again

On 23/08/11 00:13, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes
On Aug 19, 8:49 pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes
I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on

I've ordered combustion and air box seals, and a new ignition kit so
hope that will improve things.


Still a bit headless chicken approach and will in all probability
achieve **** all

Air seals may be a problem, maybe not

Ignition kit - I presume you mean electrode assy - you're wasting your
time, the sequence isn't getting that far



Are there volts (240ac) to the pilot valve some seconds after the fan
comes on?

If yes, then I would say it is the pcb, if not, then, I would expect
that the APS is not transferring. You should be able to hear the APS
microswitch clicking in

And ... as for changing the relays on the sequence board ...

another red herring
One thing you can do to test the APS, on your own hewad be it and only
of you're confident ...

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others

Baxi Barcelona

A: doesnt have a pilot light
B: doesnt have an APS

"ignore useless advice€� is the best advice you have given so far.

-

In message , Mark writes
On 23/08/11 00:13, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes
On Aug 19, 8:49 pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes
I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on

I've ordered combustion and air box seals, and a new ignition kit so
hope that will improve things.


Still a bit headless chicken approach and will in all probability
achieve **** all

Air seals may be a problem, maybe not

Ignition kit - I presume you mean electrode assy - you're wasting your
time, the sequence isn't getting that far



Are there volts (240ac) to the pilot valve some seconds after the fan
comes on?

If yes, then I would say it is the pcb, if not, then, I would expect
that the APS is not transferring. You should be able to hear the APS
microswitch clicking in

And ... as for changing the relays on the sequence board ...

another red herring
One thing you can do to test the APS, on your own hewad be it and only
of you're confident ...

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others

Baxi Barcelona

A: doesnt have a pilot light
B: doesnt have an APS


Yes, I looked at the sequence board and went into the wrong boiler

apologies there


- however, just replacing HT leads and relays ... just in case is not
the way to go about diagnosing a boiler problem

the fan operation is monitored by a hall effect sensor in the body of
the fan




--
geoff

In message
,
Andrew writes
On Aug 23, 12:13*am, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes



On Aug 19, 8:49*pm, geoff wrote:
In message
,
Andrew writes

I have a Bax Barcelona 100 HE boiler. The boiler has been locking up
upon startup (to red light) more and more frequently recently.

It is an intermittent problem. I would appreciate some guidance on
troubleshooting whether to order electrode kit and/orignition

I hear relay clicks followed by retries and red light. When it is
working I think I hear an additional click (is that spark generator?)
Usually, if the boiler fails on the first attempt, none of the
attempts work. Occasionally, I have witnessed the boiler fire up on
the 3rd/4th attempt.

My thoughts and plan:
- Replace the electrodes (they look a bit corroded and are pretty
cheap). Is there a way to test these? No difference from a wire wool
clean. The engineer tried to get a spark from electrode to insulated
screwdriver he was holding - should that work anyway?
- replace air box and combustion seals as they are starting to
disintegrate
-Ignitionpcb - could this be at fault, even though the boiler does
still work sometimes? Presumably hard to be sure it needs to be
replaced in advance of trying a new one
- Spark generator - could this be at fault, even though the boiler
does still work sometimes?
- The condensate drain was half full but did not seem blocked. I
haven't tried removing the white lead to rule it out but I would have
thought that the boiler would light, then shut down if there was a
problem with that?

First - lets look at the relevant part of the sequence and ignoring all
the peripheral rubbish so you can decide where it'#s falling over, since
your description looks a bit confused

with a call for heat from the main pcb, the sequence board brings on the
fan which in turn causes the air pressure switch to transfer from the
normally closed to normally open position. This feeds back to the
sequence board which does two things - it opens the pilot valve and
initiates the spark (generated on the sequence board). The pilot light
is sensed electronically on the sequence board via the FS electrode and
then the main solenoid is energised to bring on the main burner

Boiler seals and such will interfere with the APS operation

The spark generator is on the sequence board

condensate trap - not sure on this boiler without looking at the manual

does the pilot light?

Does it keep on sparking after the pilot has lit ?

is the spark electrode generating a spark across the pilot jet

is the sense electrode in the pilot flame?

Answer these questions and you will be in a better position to home in
on the problem

whatever,. It shouldn't be too much of a problem or too expensive to
sort out

Thanks for your reply - the pilot was not lighting. It retried (click
of relays, but no spark presumably) 4 times until locking out.

I've ordered combustion and air box seals, and a newignitionkit so
hope that will improve things.

Still a bit headless chicken approach and will in all probability
achieve **** all

Air seals may be a problem, maybe not

Ignitionkit - I presume you mean electrode assy *- you're wasting your
time, the sequence isn't getting that far

Are there volts (240ac) to the pilot valve some seconds after the fan
comes on?

If yes, then I would say it is the pcb, if not, then, I would expect
that the APS is not transferring. You should be able to hear the APS
microswitch clicking in

And ... as for changing the relays on the sequence board ...

another red herring

One thing you can do to test the APS, on your own hewad be it and only
of you're confident ...

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others

--
geoff

thanks - as the parts are inexpensive compared to a call-out, I
thought it worth just getting them all in one delivery. As you can
tell, I'm no expert but I'm keen to understand how the boiler should
work and what it might be doing wrong.

The combustion door seal was badly disintegrating when the door was
removed, so that's the first thing I'll do. I understand that this
could cause multiple problems like dangerous gases leaking, condensate
escaping and showing a leak at the top of the cabinet (which I can
see) and, the flame being shifted so it's not properly in the detector
- when it gets as far as producing a flame that is!

The electrodes looked corroded, so I thought it worth changing them
too rather than just some wire wool cleaning.

Regarding the sequence, I do hear the fan come on, and then shortly
after I hear the microswitch/relay sound as it tries to go through the
ignition sequence. So, I assume that the APS is OK. The iginition
sequence does complete sometimes.

I suppose that the end result may be that the ignition PCB needs to be
replaced, but I thought it worth doing the cheaper basics first. The
puzzling thing to me is why it works sometimes and not others. I
suppose that dry or bad joints on a PCB could cause this. The only
thing I could think of is that something is getting leaked on and
drying out over time.

See apologetic post

could be the pcb, but check out the wiring first. Where the loom
connectors go into molex connectors, you can get wires which break but
are still touching




--
geoff

geoff wrote:

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others

Baxi Barcelona

A: doesnt have a pilot light
B: doesnt have an APS


Yes, I looked at the sequence board and went into the wrong boiler

apologies there

- however, just replacing HT leads and relays ... just in case is not
the way to go about diagnosing a boiler problem


Well there you do have a point, But i am reliably informed (Pextron) and by
my own experience with this boiler that almost all ignition lockouts, if
indeed that is what the OP is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and
flame sensor AND the two G2RL relays, cost to do this is about £14, dont
think you could even get a €œplumber€� out of bed for that cost outlay.

Door seal are also worth replacing while you are at it, as a leaking seal is
common and can cause safety lockout which people mistake for ignition
lockout, not helped by logic board often misrepresenting LED fault code
(source Pextron again)


the fan operation is monitored by a hall effect sensor in the body of
the fan

Fan not running or below threshold would cause ignition lockout but you
would not get an ignition sequence started, ie no repeated relay clicking as
described by OP.

-

In message , Mark writes
geoff wrote:

suck or blow (gently) down one of the tubes to the APS so that it makes
the microswitch transfer, does the boiler spring into life?

If so, then stop immediately, but you have confirmed that the fan is not
causing the APS to transfer for whatever reason, and that the rest of
the system is OK

do that and report back, and ignore useless advice from others

Baxi Barcelona

A: doesnt have a pilot light
B: doesnt have an APS


Yes, I looked at the sequence board and went into the wrong boiler

apologies there

- however, just replacing HT leads and relays ... just in case is not
the way to go about diagnosing a boiler problem


Well there you do have a point, But i am reliably

Really?

informed (Pextron)

Do you mean Pektron, the manufacturers ofd the sequence pcb?

Not Baxi, the boiler manufacturers

and by
my own experience with this boiler

A statistical spread of one boiler?

that almost all ignition lockouts, if
indeed that is what the OP is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and
flame sensor AND the two G2RL relays,

I no longer repair the pcbs myself, (which is why I got the wrong boiler
- the pcb is used in several boilers) but I asked one of my workers that
does, and that's just not true

cost to do this is about £14, dont
think you could even get a €œplumber€� out of bed for that cost outlay.

Well, that's certainly true


Door seal are also worth replacing while you are at it,

Wel;l, absolutely, especially as the OP said that they are not in a good
condition

as a leaking seal is
common and can cause safety lockout which people mistake for ignition
lockout, not helped by logic board often misrepresenting LED fault code
(source Pextron again)


the fan operation is monitored by a hall effect sensor in the body of
the fan

Fan not running or below threshold would cause ignition lockout but you
would not get an ignition sequence started, ie no repeated relay clicking as
described by OP.

-


--
geoff

geoff wrote:



Do you mean Pektron, the manufacturers ofd the sequence pcb?

yes sorry speling eror.



that almost all ignition lockouts, if
indeed that is what the OP is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and
flame sensor AND the two G2RL relays,

I no longer repair the pcbs myself, (which is why I got the wrong boiler
- the pcb is used in several boilers) but I asked one of my workers that
does, and that's just not true

FUD, little point in continuing this really.

-

In message , Mark writes
geoff wrote:



Do you mean Pektron, the manufacturers ofd the sequence pcb?

yes sorry speling eror.



that almost all ignition lockouts, if
indeed that is what the OP is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and
flame sensor AND the two G2RL relays,

I no longer repair the pcbs myself, (which is why I got the wrong boiler
- the pcb is used in several boilers) but I asked one of my workers that
does, and that's just not true

FUD, little point in continuing this really.

Well, since cracked joints on the molex connector are a far more common
problem than relay failure (as you said - not an AC fan), then ... no
--
geoff

geoff wrote:

In message , Mark writes
geoff wrote:



Do you mean Pektron, the manufacturers ofd the sequence pcb?

yes sorry speling eror.



that almost all ignition lockouts, if
indeed that is what the OP is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and
flame sensor AND the two G2RL relays,

I no longer repair the pcbs myself, (which is why I got the wrong boiler
- the pcb is used in several boilers) but I asked one of my workers that
does, and that's just not true

FUD, little point in continuing this really.

Well, since cracked joints on the molex connector are a far more common
problem than relay failure (as you said - not an AC fan), then ... no

Yes and i did also say check the board carefully for dry (or cracked if you
prefer) joints in my original post. Only the molex connector?
my board had more bad then good and that was in year two, by year 4 it
stopped working again and thats when i discovered i had a relative working
at Pektron.

Feel free to list the common _component_ failures that are found on this
board.

-

In message , Mark writes
geoff wrote:

In message , Mark writes
geoff wrote:



Do you mean Pektron, the manufacturers ofd the sequence pcb?

yes sorry speling eror.



that almost all ignition lockouts, if
indeed that is what the OP is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and
flame sensor AND the two G2RL relays,

I no longer repair the pcbs myself, (which is why I got the wrong boiler
- the pcb is used in several boilers) but I asked one of my workers that
does, and that's just not true

FUD, little point in continuing this really.

Well, since cracked joints on the molex connector are a far more common
problem than relay failure (as you said - not an AC fan), then ... no

Yes and i did also say check the board carefully for dry (or cracked if you
prefer) joints in my original post. Only the molex connector?
my board had more bad then good and that was in year two, by year 4 it
stopped working again and thats when i discovered i had a relative working
at Pektron.

Have you informed the anthropologists?


To quote your previous post

"But i am reliably informed (Pextron) and by my own experience with this
boiler that almost all ignition lockouts, if indeed that is what the OP
is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and flame sensor AND the two
G2RL relays"

is there something missing there?

When I say mainly on the molex connector, I mean, mainly on the molex
connector. That is by far the most common cause of pcb failure

absolutely and without doubt



When it comes to relays, there is only one which is prone to failure,
the one which drives the gas valve solenoid, although it's by no way the
most common failure mode.


Feel free to list the common _component_ failures that are found on this
board.

We've prolly repaired several hundred this year (The pcb is used on
several boilers e.g. Keston (slightly different f/s configuration))

I had about a dozen come in today from one company, I'll ask the
engineer to list the failure modes for me

--
geoff

geoff wrote:


To quote your previous post

"But i am reliably informed (Pextron) and by my own experience with this
boiler that almost all ignition lockouts, if indeed that is what the OP
is getting, are cured by replacing the HT and flame sensor AND the two
G2RL relays"

is there something missing there?


Im sure i did say in original reply to OP, but have expired that part of the
thread.
€œCheck ignition pcb very carefully for dry joints€�
as that is as you say usually the start of the problems, but we got onto
relays and component failure.


When it comes to relays, there is only one which is prone to failure,
the one which drives the gas valve solenoid, although it's by no way the
most common failure mode.


I cant find the schematic for the ignition pcb and it is 5 years since i
last needed to look at it, but from memory
the Gas valve IS switched by one of the G2RL relays but cant remember what
the other one does.



Feel free to list the common _component_ failures that are found on this
board.

I had about a dozen come in today from one company, I'll ask the
engineer to list the failure modes for me


Ok that would be nice to know.


-