I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit in the
recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?


--
Adam

ARWadsworth wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit
in the recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?

It doesn't make a blind bit of difference, I've put full boards on back to
front and it's no different.

On 14/08/2011 20:31, ARWadsworth wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit in the
recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?

The dark side is slightly less flat, than the finish side, and may have
a slight visible paper seam on the edges. Makes naff all difference if
its being skimmed, and not much if being finished directly.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
On 14/08/2011 20:31, ARWadsworth wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the
bit in the recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?

The dark side is slightly less flat, than the finish side, and may
have a slight visible paper seam on the edges. Makes naff all
difference if its being skimmed, and not much if being finished
directly.

Thanks to both of you.

I'll leave it as it is.


--
Adam

On Aug 14, 8:31*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit in the
recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?

it doesnt matter. There's greater risk of minor blemishes on the other
side, but plastering or filling take care of those.


NT

On 14/08/2011 20:31, ARWadsworth wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit in the
recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?



I once asked a plasterer about this, and he said that one side is more
absorbent than the other - and gives less time to work the plaster - but
the difference is small, and doesn't really matter. ISTR that he also
said that you use one side for skimming and the other side for Artex.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Sun, 14 Aug 2011 22:42:30 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:

On 14/08/2011 20:31, ARWadsworth wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit
in the
recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?



I once asked a plasterer about this, and he said that one side is more
absorbent than the other - and gives less time to work the plaster - but
the difference is small, and doesn't really matter. ISTR that he also
said that you use one side for skimming and the other side for Artex.

Ask the manufacturers. They say, use the white side for plastering and
decorating of all kinds.

Differences a

The actual paper - absorbency, smoothness, etc.
Voids under the paper (I think they make it white side down so any air
bubbles will be under the grey side).
How the paper wraps - it is double-thickness near the edges on the grey
side.

But as half the plasterers who are asked seem to get it wrong, I'd imagine
a lot of plasterboard has been fitted and plastered the wrong way round.
And in non-critical situations it probably makes very little real
difference.

--
Rod

"polygonum" wrote in message
news .....

Differences a

The actual paper - absorbency, smoothness, etc.
Voids under the paper (I think they make it white side down so any air
bubbles will be under the grey side).
How the paper wraps - it is double-thickness near the edges on the grey
side.

But as half the plasterers who are asked seem to get it wrong, I'd imagine
a lot of plasterboard has been fitted and plastered the wrong way round.
And in non-critical situations it probably makes very little real
difference.


Last time I used it the principle difference was that the edge was tapered,
on one side only. This was to accommodate the nasty european habit of taping
the join, filling the taper but not skimming the whole face, just painting
or papering onto the plasterboard. In British practice it meant that if you
nailed the edge of the board with it the wrong way round you got a nail head
through the skim, or a piece of broken plasterboard.

Tim W

On 8/14/2011 6:54 PM, Tim W wrote:


Last time I used it the principle difference was that the edge was tapered,
on one side only. This was to accommodate the nasty european habit of taping
the join, filling the taper but not skimming the whole face, just painting
or papering onto the plasterboard.

Typical US practice, too.

"S Viemeister" wrote in message
...
On 8/14/2011 6:54 PM, Tim W wrote:


Last time I used it the principle difference was that the edge was
tapered,
on one side only. This was to accommodate the nasty european habit of
taping
the join, filling the taper but not skimming the whole face, just
painting
or papering onto the plasterboard.

Typical US practice, too.

IOW "drywall"

Jim K

And Australia.
I'd like to have a good look at some taped rooms, particularly around the window reveals and the wall / ceiling joints, to see how good it can be.
Judging by the small number of white "dots" you usually see, they don't appear to use many screws in the boards.
With larger houses in general (US, OZ etc,), I can see that skimming a whole house would become very expensive.
Watched Grand Designs Australia yesterday. Quite interesting.
Simon.

On 14 Aug, 23:54, "Tim W" wrote:

Last time I used it the principle difference was that the edge was tapered,
on one side only. This was to accommodate the nasty european habit of taping
the join, filling the taper but not skimming the whole face, just painting
or papering onto the plasterboard. In British practice it meant that if you
nailed the edge of the board with it the wrong way round you got a nail head
through the skim, or a piece of broken plasterboard.

I suggest you don't buy tapered board if you're going to skim it.

Cheers
Richard

"geraldthehamster" wrote in message
...
On 14 Aug, 23:54, "Tim W" wrote:

Last time I used it the principle difference was that the edge was
tapered,
on one side only. This was to accommodate the nasty european habit of
taping
the join, filling the taper but not skimming the whole face, just
painting
or papering onto the plasterboard. In British practice it meant that if
you
nailed the edge of the board with it the wrong way round you got a nail
head
through the skim, or a piece of broken plasterboard.

I suggest you don't buy tapered board if you're going to skim it.

I chose to use tapered when lining this place with isulation backed boards-
meant I could get a proper taped joint with thick scrim/tape and plenty
joint cement - and no problems with "undulations" or tape "poking through"
when skimming after.

YMMV

Jim K

replying to geraldthehamster, Peter G wrote:
You need to have tapered board to do a proper join. Any doubts just go to
www.british-gypsum.com and look at their instructions. fill the tapered valley
with jointing paper and compound. Let dry. Sand smooth if not skimming and
seal and undercoat. Skim if desired; but even they say skimming is an option
these days, not a necessity.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...nd-723747-.htm

On Aug 14, 11:54*pm, "Tim W" wrote:
Last time I used it the principle difference was that the edge was tapered,
on one side only. This was to accommodate the nasty european habit of taping
the join, filling the taper but not skimming the whole face, just painting
or papering onto the plasterboard.

I was taught this as the preferred approach on a DIY plastering course
in Britain recently too.

replying to Tim W, Peter G wrote:
It begs the question why British plasterboard is tapered if the "nasty" habit
is European. Basically whether skimming or not (and my research shows this
seems to be a habit confined to UK) the joint is enhance by having a "valley"
created by the two tapered edged butting together. Fill the valley with tape
and jointing compound and you will not get cracking. Butt the non tapered
sides together and all you have to cover the Joint is the skim. Only
exceptional good luck will prevent a crack eventually appearing. Here skimming
is not done. Feather the jointing compound. sand it with a 240+grit paper (I
like 400) and the joint should be smooth enough to run a finger nail over it
without detecting it. Apply a sealer and an undercoat (or a combined product)
and you will never detect where the joint is, even before the topcoats. And I
am an accountant not a professional plasterer.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...nd-723747-.htm

On 24/02/2018 23:44, Peter G wrote:
replying to Tim W, Peter G wrote:
It begs the question why British plasterboard is tapered if the "nasty"
habit
is European. Basically whether skimming or not (and my research shows this
seems to be a habit confined to UK) the joint is enhance by having a
"valley"
created by the two tapered edged butting together. Fill the valley with
tape
and jointing compound and you will not get cracking. Butt the non tapered
sides together and all you have to cover the Joint is the skim. Only
exceptional good luck will prevent a crack eventually appearing. Here
skimming
is not done. Feather the jointing compound. sand it with a 240+grit
paper (I
like 400) and the joint should be smooth enough to run a finger nail
over it
without detecting it. Apply a sealer and an undercoat (or a combined
product)
and you will never detect where the joint is, even before the topcoats.



And I
am an accountant not a professional plasterer.


So you are good with numbers then?

Here is one your you.

In what year was the post that you replied to made?

--
Adam

In article ,
Peter G m wrote:
Basically whether skimming or not (and my research shows this seems to
be a habit confined to UK) the joint is enhance by having a "valley"
created by the two tapered edged butting together. Fill the valley with
tape and jointing compound and you will not get cracking. Butt the non
tapered sides together and all you have to cover the Joint is the skim.

Have you ever tried to remove wallpaper from plasterboard which wasn't
skimmed?

--
*All those who believe in psychokinesis, raise my hand *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 14/08/2011 22:56, polygonum wrote:
On Sun, 14 Aug 2011 22:42:30 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:

On 14/08/2011 20:31, ARWadsworth wrote:
I have just dot and dabbed a bathroom wall.

It turns out that the piece of plasterboard above the window (the bit
in the
recess) is the wrong way around.

Does it really matter or should I swap it in the morning?



I once asked a plasterer about this, and he said that one side is more
absorbent than the other - and gives less time to work the plaster -
but the difference is small, and doesn't really matter. ISTR that he
also said that you use one side for skimming and the other side for
Artex.

Ask the manufacturers. They say, use the white side for plastering and
decorating of all kinds.

Differences a

The actual paper - absorbency, smoothness, etc.
Voids under the paper (I think they make it white side down so any air
bubbles will be under the grey side).
How the paper wraps - it is double-thickness near the edges on the grey
side.

But as half the plasterers who are asked seem to get it wrong, I'd
imagine a lot of plasterboard has been fitted and plastered the wrong
way round. And in non-critical situations it probably makes very little
real difference.

Its partly historical - the makers used to specify one side for skimming
and the other for decorating. These days they specify light side for
both. Many builders etc do not respond well to learning new tricks!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm writes:

Its partly historical - the makers used to specify one side for skimming
and the other for decorating. These days they specify light side for
both. Many builders etc do not respond well to learning new tricks!

Reminds me, before I could do my own plastering, I had boarded a ceiling
and then got a plasterer in to skim it. Part way through, he said to me,
"Next time, can you put the board on the other way up?".
I asked him if he really wanted to plaster straight onto the foil, at
which point he looked a bit sheepish, and carried on skimming.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John Rumm writes:

Its partly historical - the makers used to specify one side for skimming
and the other for decorating. These days they specify light side for
both. Many builders etc do not respond well to learning new tricks!

Reminds me, before I could do my own plastering, I had boarded a ceiling
and then got a plasterer in to skim it. Part way through, he said to me,
"Next time, can you put the board on the other way up?".
I asked him if he really wanted to plaster straight onto the foil, at
which point he looked a bit sheepish, and carried on skimming.

expect he would also ask you for sparks for the angle grinder.... i.e.
tosser

Jim K